Alan P Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 I really don't think the landing gear will cope with all that resin, especially considering the dodgy fitting. You may need to make some sort of support for the centreline hidden beneath the fuselage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Looking very good there... hopefully all that ordinance wont make it fall on its belly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 Well, I'm firing on with the undercarts, with the expection they will fail - the front in particular! Copper stuff arrived, but it's too thin - I needed a thicker gauge for a more accurate representation. Never mind - it was my first attempt at cart detailing, and I'll do better next time. I'm leaving this as is, so I can get on and complete this. Anyway - this is them getting attached. The Air-to-air is now complete - tank is only dry-fitted for now. Piping barely visible in this. Drat! Must use thicker ones next time! No wheels attached yet, as I'm waiting for some weighted ones in the post. Once they're on, I'll give these a bit of a wash to bring up the detail a bit. Should probably have done it before attaching, but there we go. Pointy boom sticks getting painted...just military green to go now for the bases and the fins. Shadows (out of picture) glossed pending Decals. If I can find someone who does them in 1:32. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periklis_sale Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 looking great mate!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P-47 Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Looking good, been following your progress as I am building one at the moment. Are you going to angle the cannards forward? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 (edited) Tiny update while I wait for my weighted wheels. Almost finished painting the CPU123's - fuse to do, a bit of a wash to bring out the lines, and then a gloss. Just searching for decals for them now, before closing them up with a matt coat. Colour scheme is from the reference picture on the Eurofighter site. Ie I know they're supposed to be military green in actual use. I think these green/blue/white ones are demo loads, but I like the colours anyway. Looking at the photo for the first time, and I think I might drop another coat of blue on too. Edited January 8, 2010 by silverburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 9, 2010 Author Share Posted January 9, 2010 update... The wheels are on, and she can stand! Will sort my lighting for RFI shots - these are just practise, while I add stuff as we head down the home straight. And yes, yjr carts are as bad as expected - the front is bending already and I don't even have the resin bits on yet! Biggest snag is the central tank...it won't fit while the engine doors are open! Lucky I'm going for a LITENING, which I can hack to fit! While that's on, here's how to do said UK LITENING, as recommended by BM members... Cut off back section as straight as possible... Rotate intake to port side. Re-glue and putty in the "wound"... Prime, paint, decal & gloss and bingo! Snag is you need a pylon to carry it - so hack up the spare 1000l tank ...keep the pylon bit - but chop off the back of it, so it clears the engine doors (if you have them open) putty in the rear and back gap, and proceed as normal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 I hate to say it, but this ones looking even better than the Stuka... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Looking very impressive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IV(AC)Plumb Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Not sure if your too worried but the blue you've used on the LGB's is more akin to oxford blue drill (concrete) rounds, the blue on the photo earlier was lighter and indicated Practice rounds Drill rounds never fly Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 looks great cant wait to see more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 (edited) update...While that's on, here's how to do said UK LITENING, as recommended by BM members... Cut off back section as straight as possible... Rotate intake to port side. Re-glue and putty in the "wound"... Prime, paint, decal & gloss and bingo! Nice one, that is the best way to do it. There is a panel line were you cut, so that makes thing easy. The models looking good, hope the undercarrage can take the strain? Shaun. Edited January 9, 2010 by Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 9, 2010 Author Share Posted January 9, 2010 Not sure if your too worried but the blue you've used on the LGB's is more akin to oxford blue drill (concrete) rounds, the blue on the photo earlier was lighter and indicated Practice roundsDrill rounds never fly Steve Actually yes, I did hum and haw on this one, but realised I only had 3 blue rattle cans in the cupboard, and this colour was the closest! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 (edited) Tiny update - only had time to fit the LITENING: Yes, there's decals and a wash missing from the wheel doors... Edited January 10, 2010 by silverburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 What do you use for wash, silverfreeze? Im looking for a decent one, but if im honest i have absolutely no idea what to look for... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazza Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Gosh! that front gear leg is puny! suprised it can take the weight at all! don't suppose it would fare well during a err flight across the bench....... brilliant work though and i like that litening pod, looks the business. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 (edited) What do you use for wash, silverfreeze? Im looking for a decent one, but if im honest i have absolutely no idea what to look for... Promodeller - I have various ones. An airbrush will still give better effects though; for example, the underside around the engine is "stained" in 1:1 - this is a difficult effect to get right with a wash. With an airbrush you can mist on very dilute layers of "smoke" to obtain this (IIRC). Pre-shading would work well too on the Typhoon, but it's not easily do-able with rattle-cans. I will attempt a wash on the underside tomorrow, and if that goes ok, I'll slap on some CPU123's. After that I won't be able to finish it until a set of resin inner pylons arrive! I've been given hope (but no guarantee) from Mike at 2 Resins these will be forthcoming. Oh, and I'll be hoping to get this baby to 98% tomorrow (ie done, bar the inner pylons & decals for the CPU123's), HB. Edited January 10, 2010 by silverburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 Gosh! that front gear leg is puny! suprised it can take the weight at all! don't suppose it would fare well during a err flight across the bench....... brilliant work though and i like that litening pod, looks the business. *Very* punny! I'm dreading the fitting of the CPU123's tomorrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 (edited) HoneyBadger's been 'badgering' me, so I've got the plane to as far as I can take it for now. It's basically 98% complete, and only missing the inner pylons and some decals for the CPU123 - which I can't seem to find aftermarket. I'll not bother explaining every detail (it's in the thread already), but I'll try and cover everything below. It should be noted the flightpath stuff was excellent, bar the decal issue. Before we get to the pics, here a few suggestions/hints/ideas/gotchas for certain groups. I reserve the right to come back and edit this list, as I remember stuff! For the Modellers: GOTCHA's: - The engine doors snag the central pylons - You need to paint the fuselage as well as the wheel bays otherwise you'll have an unpainted strip in the middle RECOMMENDATIONS: - Stick the intakes etc onto the fuselage first - Smooth the intakes - Smooth the leading edges on the wing, and sharpen the trailing of the front flap itself if you want to deploy the front edges. This is trickier than it sounds. - Those canards are best left until the end, if you can. But it's tricky. - Sink filling: - on the underside of the intake "roof" - on the front edge flaps - on the exhausts - on a couple of rear flaps SCRATCH BUILD: - Strengthen that front wheel if you want to carry heavy resin (Shadows) - Move the forward bulkhead in the engine bay towards the front - Resculpt the bulkhead to actually match the profile of the fuselage - Do some proper ribs for that engine bay, and replace Revell's feeble attempt at a centre "wall" SUPER DETAIL CANDIDATES: - The wheel bays - A means of opening up the fuselage even more, so you can drop the "detail" engine into it, instead of leaving it on it's stand. This would be awesome. I would love to see this done, showing off a full length, super detailed engine. - The ladder compartment For the After market guys: This kit is dying out for: - Exhausts; engine end, and actual exhaust itself - Inner Pylons! - Metals legs! - Engine "face" at the back of the front intakes - a better/easier Pit to work with. Perhaps an etch of the panel sides? - a replacement ladder compartment - air-to-mud decals! For Revell to fix: - That feeble front cart! - The whole engine bay thing is a bit of an afterthought; it looks like it was designed after the main kit was finalised - Make the canard securing parts better; they're rubbish - The decal for the ladder compartment is missing - The ribbing for the engine bay flaps is straight, when the surface is actually straight - Did you really need to make some simple parts in 3 pieces? eg: Nose cone - If you're going to build a detailed engine, make it *really* detailed Onto the standalone engine after this! Edited January 11, 2010 by silverburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan P Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Congratulations, you've made a decent job of that and been a good pioneer in your build, very helpful tips and hints! Thanks a lot for sharing your build with the BM massif. The wheels look really wobbly! G-Factor to the rescue with that one i hope. All i can say is....this kit desperately needs a Flightpath detailing set! And I am very patient! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Hi silverburn, Thanks for taking the time to document your build. I've followed along and I like the way the Revell kit looks. Your suggestions and recommendations are noted and should help to avoid potential pitfalls. By the time I get round to building one I'm hoping there will be resin cockpit tub, wheel bays and exhaust sets to buy. The overall shape certainly looks like a Typhoon to me. Did you raise the airbrake because it fits like the 1/48th version? Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Did you raise the airbrake because it fits like the 1/48th version? On the same subject, did your airbrake have sink marks where the interior strengtheners are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 As a Badger i reserve the right to badger. I also resere the right to say that that looks absolutely stunning (not least the cockpit), and Revell really didnt put enough thought into those wheels. Do not let a fly land on your Eurofighter! Looking forward to seeing the engine now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 On the same subject, did your airbrake have sink marks where the interior strengtheners are? If you mean on the main fuselage where the airbrake rotates on it, then yes - I had to fill these when I blended in the parcel shelf. On the airbrake itself - no. Sink marks in general were not too bad, but I managed to miss a few: - on the underside of the intake "roof" - on the front edge flaps - on the exhausts - on a couple of rear flaps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedimaster65 Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Silverburn, that's a masterpiece ! You have overcome so many issues brilliantly and thanks for sharing such excellent pics and all the tips & advice. Awesome mate, - 10/10 ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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