James V Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Shaun, There is a RAFAEL Litening Pod available in 32nd, I wasnt aware that the intake was different on the pod tho, many thanks for pointing that out Were did you get the pod from?.Also you need to remember that the RAF LITENING pod has the rear intake on the port side not Starboard like most other countries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted December 27, 2009 Author Share Posted December 27, 2009 Shaun, There is a RAFAEL Litening Pod available in 32nd, I wasnt aware that the intake was different on the pod tho, many thanks for pointing that out I've gone for the RAFAEL Litening Pod, so lets hope it's right! Either that or I'll need to get a F18 or something to fit it to.... Anyway, today's progress. Not much, as the day has flown by. - PIRATE fitted Simple enough; cut off the pegs, sand of the edges, and glue it on. < 1 mins work - Gear started Wheels look ok, but the legs will need detailing. Most obvious omission is the 3 hydraulic pipes/cables. I might give it a go building my own. What's the best material for this - copper wire or something? - Resident engine built This was a disappointment, I'll be honest. I was hoping for something pretty authentic, but it was nowhere near i) the Sprue fitment crosses a 'ledge' on the exhaust part, so it's a bugger to tidy up without ruining the circular nature of the exhaust. ii) The state of the exhaust itself was pretty bad; rogue plastic bits, flash, dents, strange "worms" in the plastic (it's on both sprues, so it's a manufacturing fault) Significant tidying required. iii) While the edge of the exhausts is a good effort, the end result is far too "thin" compared to 1:1 iv) The actual inside of the engine is nothing like 1:1. The injectors are just blobs, the radial bars are too thin and rounded (1:1 is thick and square), and there's no sign of the fans behind it all. The walls are also wrong. If the Resin guys are looking for some extra business, they could make a killing by making more authentic versions (hint, hint). - First coat of grey applied; it's grey-er than this in real life, rest assured. But it's still a warmer grey than I'd like, but that's my primary caveat with this build - I'm limited by the palette rattle cans give me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 (edited) I've gone for the RAFAEL Litening Pod, so lets hope it's right! Either that or I'll need to get a F18 or something to fit it to.... The Isracast LITENING pod is designed for the F-16. You will need to cut the pod and rotate the intake to the port side. LITENING on F-16I RAF LITENING III pod Edited December 28, 2009 by Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted December 28, 2009 Author Share Posted December 28, 2009 Bit more painting done...beginning to look more like a plane! Laquer on, mask removed on Canopy, exhausts stained, some interior bits tidied up, but that'll be the main focus of the next painting. Still hampered by my rattle can palette, so please squint to make sure you see the right colours...they're close, trust me:) Laquer on, so decals next. Maybe tonight. After I clean my canopy (finger prints, dust etc) ahead of "Klearing". What's the recommended way to do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard of Effingham Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 in a hurry tonite, but..... very good so far. i do know the latest SAMI has a test shot review of this kit and i am sure the strength of the nose undercart came in for criticism. its weak in RoG's 1/72 tiffie kit too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gibson Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 - Gear startedWheels look ok, but the legs will need detailing. Most obvious omission is the 3 hydraulic pipes/cables. I might give it a go building my own. What's the best material for this - copper wire or something? Ayup SB Lead wire is better. Try here: http://www.relishmodels.co.uk/plus-model-l...wire-0-5mm.html or Google it. Try fly-tying wire. HTH, Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedimaster65 Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 (edited) This is really riveting, I log on every evening to see the latest progress on this impressive build...I can't wait to see the latest daily work that's been done. I am awaiting the results of your efforts before I commence my own. Well done SB and thanks for the pics, - Please keep them coming ! Edited December 29, 2009 by jedimaster65 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted December 30, 2009 Author Share Posted December 30, 2009 (edited) decsls on! Bit thick, but register etc all ok. The only quibble I have is with their subtlety...or lack of it; they just seem to jump off the plane! Maybe it's 'cos i "matted" when i should have "glossed". oh, and canopy Kleared too. Only lose fitted, as i'll be running it open. Moving onto the pylons, while i wait for the wire i need to do the undercarriage. Speaking of the canopy...if you plan to run closed, don't bother building the "parcel shelf" bits...they just get in the way of the canopy closing. Edited December 30, 2009 by silverburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPerx Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 (edited) If anyone wanted to they could make their own decal for the crew ladder compartment door. Here is my first stab - just re-size the image to the dimensions of the rectangle the door part forms. Edited December 30, 2009 by SPerx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted December 30, 2009 Author Share Posted December 30, 2009 Confirmed - whether I'd have matted or not wouldn't have made a difference to these decals - they are simply way too "loud" compared to the few pics I've seen of 1:1. eg the purples are nearly invisible on 1:1, as are the black " do not step" lines across the fuselage. Builders might want to consider a means of "knocking" these back. I'm envious of the air brushers on this one PS - speaking of "do not step" marks...there's bloody millions of them! Talk about Nanny state...they're bloody everywhere on this plane...pah, humbug... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Wow, that looks fantastic. The decals are a bit... loud, but i dont think it really detracts. Itd take a lot to detract from that thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurricane363 Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 (edited) Confirmed - whether I'd have matted or not wouldn't have made a difference to these decals - they are simply way too "loud" compared to the few pics I've seen of 1:1. eg the purples are nearly invisible on 1:1, as are the black " do not step" lines across the fuselage.Builders might want to consider a means of "knocking" these back. I'm envious of the air brushers on this one PS - speaking of "do not step" marks...there's bloody millions of them! Talk about Nanny state...they're bloody everywhere on this plane...pah, humbug... Just to let people know, all the 'No Step' stencils covering the wings etc aren't actually there, just a hatched line with the ocasional no step dotted around. And all the other stencils are light grey, not black as model manufacturers seem to love?!? Looking good by the way (sorry i forgot to mention it) Hope mine turns out this good. Edited December 31, 2009 by Hurricane363 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 Just to let people know, all the 'No Step' stencils covering the wings etc aren't actually there, just a hatched line with the ocasional no step dotted around. And all the other stencils are light grey, not black as model manufacturers seem to love?!?Looking good by the way (sorry i forgot to mention it) Hope mine turns out this good. Cheers! Re: grey vs black...Revell have obviously used the same printer that Father Ted uses for his socks! (ie very, very, very, very, black) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 (edited) Air-to-air done...couple of snags: - revells instructions were a tad confusing with the pylons...either that or I've lost half my IQ sniffing white spirits and Super glue. - The inner pylons are not sided! C'mon Revell! - My rattle can lacquer from Halford was RUBBISH! Don't use it! Main tank is slightly lumpy textured now...grumble... Might be taking a wee enforced break while I order up some new lacquer...I'm out of Gloss and Matt. That and I've not started the undercarriage yet, while waiting for some pipe for a bit of scratch detailing. Anyway, not much of a pic, but enjoy. I know I've got the tail (black) and nose (darker of the greys) to do on the outer pylons btw. Edited December 31, 2009 by silverburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedimaster65 Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) Hi Silverburn What laquer or varnishes would you recommend then ? I am baffled as to what to use myself... Edited January 1, 2010 by jedimaster65 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turnerdad Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Doing a great job SB. Got one myself and was pretty shocked by the overall quality of the kit, but at least it can be built into a great looking model, I'm watching this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 I have been using Halfords car paint stuff for my airliners. One thing that I have found to be critical is ensuring the can is warm as I spray in the garage. For this I leave it in the house before use and keep it in front of a fan heater between coats along with the model. This gives a much smoother application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 1, 2010 Author Share Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) Hi SilverburnWhat laquer or varnishes would you recommend then ? I am baffled as to what to use myself... In my (limited) experience the Humbrol Lacquer sprays have given the best results - they are expensive however, given the size of the can. I have recently switched to Montana Gold Lacquers - the Gloss version lays down thickly (as all MG paint seems to), but evenly. The Matt works well. Remember that all sprays are temperature sensitive, so if you're spraying in the garage (as Woody37 and myself do), you will get a drop in quality at the moment as the atomisation process prefers warm air. Those with air-brushes here use a Klear-thinner mix instead - it's probably far cheaper in the long run, once you've got and air-brush. I'm still umm-ing and aw-ing myself on getting one! Edited January 1, 2010 by silverburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 What are the main gear bays like? I have the original Revell moulding, and the term 'guesswork' doesn't even come close. I may have to write to Revell for gear bay parts, if I can access some plans for reference. Unless some nice person is planning some resin wells, in which case I will go for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 1, 2010 Author Share Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) What are the main gear bays like? I have the original Revell moulding, and the term 'guesswork' doesn't even come close.I may have to write to Revell for gear bay parts, if I can access some plans for reference. Unless some nice person is planning some resin wells, in which case I will go for them. Here's a couple of photo's of the bays. Already half-weathered, but I think you'll see there's no extra detail over the 1:48 edition. And the rear legs look to be the same hideous fit as well. You still need to spray the inner fuselage white as well for the middle section; Revell don't tell you that bit. Not to worry - when this reached RFI, I'll list all the erratums, addendums, recommended instal methods for certain bits and a recommended resin list. re: Resins...I've got the following list already (hint, hint resin guys ): - Pit - resin or Etch please; the OOB pit is too "flat". Seat too, but I think that's already on the market. - Inner pylons (urgent!) - Exhaust inners and outers - Front of engine (the end of the front intakes is just woefully detailed for such a visible part). - Air-to-ground (though you can get these already) - Rear undercarriage legs with extra detail (eg hydraulic piping) - they're a straight upscale from 1:48 from what I see. Re: resin wheel bays - this might be tricky - the "inside" part is part of an assembled structure which attaches to the lower wing...the "outers" are set into the plastic of the upper wings. Which is why my bays are half weathered - I weathered the "inner" structure before assembly, but I need to do the "outers" now. If done in resin, you'll have 2 construction options: i) Using 3 parts - the big "inner" bit, and two "outers" - and you'd need to sand flat the wing uppers before fitment. ii) One big part - you'll still need to sand the wing uppers flat. Hope that helps. Edited January 1, 2010 by silverburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Looking good. Revell instructions a bit confusing... never... :-) Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Oh well, thanks for the input. On the original release, the wells are just a square hole in each wing. Nothing in the fuselage at all. Was hoping I wouldn't have to scratch build. The easy option is gear up, full the seams and rescribe the doors. Not my ideal solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 1, 2010 Author Share Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) Topside weathering started...a bit "harsh" for now, but a damp sponge will soften it to cloudy streaks. I used Tamiya pastels on the individual components before attaching them, and masked the seams on the fuselage itself (just behind leading wing edge, spine etc), and applied. Looks like some seams are dirty, and "breaks up" the monotone on the wings and fuselage. I think it'll come out ok, with a bit of softening. Funnily enough, the photo's look exactly how I want it - but actually they're much darker than this. I might take more to show it off better. Pylons on, and air-to-air added. Will decide on the outer air-to-air soon...I have a LITENING coming, and that may need to go on an outer pylon. Plenty time to decide yet. Flaps deployed in the "right turn" and "drooping up" pose. I used some plastic to span the gap between the flaps and the wing - I must remember to paint it. I preferred that to some complicated puttying job... oh, and I broke a canard off. Nothing superglue wouldn't fix though. Slowing beginning to get the small bits done, but actually really want to get started on the undercarriage and the belly weathering! Edited January 1, 2010 by silverburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnthonyWan Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 Excellent progress. I think you should keep the weathering decently heavy on the finished model...the Eurofighter looks too plain with just clean gray paint. A few years of service will change that though... How did you find the decals to be? No silvering? Easy to settle into detail? -Awan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverburn Posted January 1, 2010 Author Share Posted January 1, 2010 Excellent progress. I think you should keep the weathering decently heavy on the finished model...the Eurofighter looks too plain with just clean gray paint. A few years of service will change that though...How did you find the decals to be? No silvering? Easy to settle into detail? -Awan Decals were good, but the main issue as per previous posts was the black...it should be grey, not 100% "K". It makes the decals stand out too much compared to 1:1. I do foresee a problem with the featureless wings in the weathering...in 1:1 they get grimy, but I'm not sure how best to replicate that in 1:32 - a simple MIG wash maybe? I may have to experiment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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