Jump to content

McLaren M19A, Denny Hulme, 1972 South African GP. MFH, 1/12


pg265

Recommended Posts

Good morning,
 
The Ferrari 312B on break, I’ve decided to start this beautiful 1972 McLaren M19A.
I love the car, but would have preferred an earlier version with McLaren colors: the wonderful Papaya Orange.
The 1972 South African Grand Prix winner, in the Yardley colours, will be in the hands of Denny Hulme: The Bear!

 

e9fb3a10.jpg

 

943b9910.jpg

 

The kit is very nice and rather well studied, finely molded and made parts, both for resin and for White Metal.
The decals are sumptuous.
 
Start with the first assemblies on the engine: A DFV!

 

58ea0810.jpg

 

2e381610.jpg

 

a682f110.jpg

 

d3d9ad10.jpg

 

I made small blanking plates for the holes of the lower engine not used on this config.
They are made of very thin aluminum foil, drilled and fixed by machined BTR.
Of course, all this will be virtually invisible… 
The water plate is also installed and fixed in the same way

 

f349d810.jpg

 

54a15f10.jpg

 

Many holes are made for subsequent assemblies.
A part of the accessories is installed on the left of the block.
Some parts are treated with browning.
The clutch is only installed for fun.

 

a5920410.jpg

 

f3cc5510.jpg

 

45b22310.jpg

 

In order to ensure good alignments, the box is tested, its inking points on the block adjusted: Not too bad.

 

684ad210.jpg

 

1d81cc10.jpg

 

Well, it’s not all that, but I worked a little on housings/crankcase of all kinds.
Those from the waterfall at the front of the block and the friends who hide the camshafts.
 
First a few holes, of different diameters, very light sanding and polishing on the Ford logo and masking with  gum for artist.
Then a little prep.

 

04be3810.jpg

 

b297f910.jpg

 

6ff17c10.jpg

 

7a6af210.jpg

 

5005af10.jpg

 

The right side is equipped with its accessories.

 

cc76aa10.jpg

The water pipe, in 2 parts, is welded and polished.

 

450c3910.jpg

 

bf057910.jpg

 

One of the fuel pumps (attached to the block and mechanically driven by the block) is modified, painted and equipped with a Banjo fitting and an angled AN fitting… both made of machined aluminum.

 

82563e10.jpg

 

fa800f10.jpg

 

The transition of different shades to oil will give a little life to all this little world very soon.
 
I must admit that the assembly of this model requires a certain habit/ experience of kits of this type.
The plan shows pieces whose fixing points/pawns are missing from the physical parts. Many modifications and tricks must be used to achieve the “desired” result.
A good knowledge of the engine as well as a good documentation are also necessary to realize connections,
missing connections/hoses and other wiring.
For example, the pump I just installed is connected to the electrical pumps in the bulkhead and the tank, but not to the filter and the injection pump, both of which are present and detailed…
This is, I think, the first model from MFH that gives me these small inconveniences. 
But hey, we’re not gonna complain, right?
The kit is sublime, like this car that I particularly like!
If only an M7A showed the tip of their muzzle…

So, let’s close this parenthesis…
The Cosworth block is progressing.
I have made some details and quite a few changes.
The vast majority of cables and hoses are not those provided by MFH.
The entire power circuit is reproduced.
The assembly of the admission ramps is not so simple because of the high room through which the trumpets pass.
It must:
- pass all the trumpets,
- stick them on the guillotine ramp (taking care to properly align the injector openings)
- turn the assembly and center the upper piece on the trumpets and stick it inside the capillary openings on the trumpets… without burrs and other traces of cyano.
A very fluid glue was used for this.

 

1b382e10.jpg

 

7b338510.jpg

 

b9e03a10.jpg

 

a25b4f10.jpg

 

ef729110.jpg

 

6e146b10.jpg

 

03a6dd10.jpg

 

Pretty good, even if I’m not more satisfied than that…
The DFV engine of the Lotus 49 at the same scale is really of another quality, at all levels.

For fun and because between the two my heart swings!


aa7a2910.jpg

 

I started working on the hull.
It is a composite assembly of resin and White Metal, mainly screwed.
It’s more work than it seems.

 

5398c410.jpg

 

5c051010.jpg

 

It is therefore necessary to drill all the elements according to different diameters according to which the part must be threaded or only to let pass the screw... and therefore tap in 1.4mm mainly in metal and/ or resin.
The «bathtub» will also be welded once its parts polished and riveted.
We are still far from it!

I decided to bring the engine for an exhibition in Niort.
So it took, for fun and a better presentation, to finish it a little better.
- Front plate installation,
- Painting and treatment of the steering wheel/clutch assembly,
- Installation of yellow "plugs" on oil outlets.

 

f1c4ed10.jpg

 

0ce73910.jpg

 

1516f310.jpg

 

1f861610.jpg

 

a3c42d10.jpg

 

The dark parts are treated with  Blaken'it, rubbed and passed in oil.
the «golden» part is painted with Humbrol Metal Cote, little pigmented to obtain a certain transparency of treated metal.
Two/three details and transplants, and zou!
It’s clean, it’s not too bad.
The set will go back into the rabiot box when assembling the gearbox.

In his box for transport.

 

14409110.jpg

 

More very soon,
Pascal

  • Like 11
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another Pascal masterpiece in the making - looking forward to watching this one progress, that engine looks just gorgeous to me! And working on such nice metal pieces in this scale must be similar to building a real motor!

 

Great start to a model of a beautiful car! 

 

Keith

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Exquisite! The engine alone makes a good model, the level of detail in the castings and moulded parts is unbelievable. I'll follow your build with great interest.

 

Colin

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

Thanks a lot for all your kind comments and the warm welcome for this new build!

 

GEARBOX!

It is not spectacular in the photo, far from it, but it is the whole with the addition of what will be connected on or assembled around.

 

a3459010.jpg

 

I also needed brass bolts/washers (ø1.5 and 2mm) for the Hewland box.
Of course… nothing!
So I machined them.
The picture is… Bad (!) to say the least, but I will try to make better ones in the situation on the box.

 

b9c32b10.jpg

 

As I was in the DIY mood, I decided to redo the pump at the rear end of the gearbox.
It is turned into a remnant of aluminum log, then pierced.
It is 4x4mm.

 

e62e9210.jpg

 

8cc8f910.jpg

 

32269e10.jpg

 

04f0f610.jpg

 

Test fit of the machined brass parts on the box.
I took the opportunity to machine straight A/N fittings: to improve, but not too bad.

 

6edf6910.jpg

 

In order to be able to assemble and paint most of this set, a lot of preparation work, drilling, tapping… is necessary.
Once satisfied, the parts are primed.

 

d09c0810.jpg

 

Then painted in various shades of black.

b99c5310.jpg

 

ec566a10.jpg

 

The Hewland casings are given several shades of oil and the A/N fittings are partially painted.

 

38a8d910.jpg

 

72cf2d10.jpg

 

f7f5ab10.jpg

 

I mounted a disc and made a tool to be able to install it on the lathe to finalize its appearance.
I’m starting to have a few tools as I make one for each model.
 
Other parts such as calipers and starter elements are treated with Black'it, rinsed and brushed.

Always many tests, adjustments, drilling…
Blank mounting to validate sub-assemblies.

 

16a14510.jpg

 

I made the identification plate of the box in a very thin sheet of aluminum, Speed Tape in fact.
It’s a little more realistic than painting in aluminum the relief of the box end part.

 

d51c4010.jpg

 

077a7210.jpg

 

8b277a10.jpg

 

I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos that follow: it is late!
 
The assembly of the gearbox continues.
It is a set that seems simple, but is not because of all the elements of the rear axle, brakes, transmission.
 
As I said before, preparing the elements takes time.
To illustrate my point, here is the image of a shock absorber being prepared next to a “raw”.

 

07bf3410.jpg

 

The first photo also shows the records… But, by mutual agreement with myself, it was decided to bring a little more detail.
So I drilled the internal flanges to install Allen hardware.

 

d0cc0f10.jpg

 

As long as one is engaged in the detailing, the calipers are equipped with their bleeders and fittings for the brake fluid lines.

 

f2d04310.jpg

 

99829a10.jpg


All suspension elements, springs.. , were primed and painted in satin black.
The stabilizer bar and its rods are brushed and then chemically browned.
Everything is finally assembled.

 

37c7cc10.jpg

 

21c40710.jpg

 

53506110.jpg

 

It remains to refine some details with oils as usual.
The battery tray (photo-cut part to fold) is installed temporarily.

The exhausts are done.
A small weld is added as well as the tab that holds the 4 in 1 on the collector.
The outlet is only temporarily installed because it must be aligned with the support that will be installed on the box.

 

4839d810.jpg

 

The printed parts are… awesomely stunning! The spectacular and splendid exits of the 256F1 had already left me speechless!
 
Here are the elements waiting for some black (satin, matte or a mix of the 2).

 

6778be10.jpg

 

The exhausts are finished, the welds added.
The radiators are much better than other models: White metal for the filling and photo-etched grille.
The result is very satisfactory and should be quite realistic once the satin black is applied.
 
For more realism, I represented the welds on the oil tank.

 

c9367410.jpg

 


Pascal:pilot:

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, pg265 said:

The result is very satisfactory and should be quite realistic once the satin black is applied.
 

Hi Pascal, I appreciate that English my not be your first language,  but you appear to have got the words very satisfactory and totally stunning mixed up 😁😅.  Thanks for sharing - Andy 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good evening,
 
Thanks so much  for your comments. ;) 
 
Progress on the gearbox is laborious but rewarding: we are starting to see the end of it!
 
The battery, its wiring and the starter are done. The gearbox oil circuit completed.
 
4ff01110.jpg

 

39f43310.jpg
 
The oil radiators are assembled and equipped with the rear light.
 
c6b65410.jpg
 
I made a small part for the back of the rear light. It will later be equipped with its wiring.
 
885dec10.jpg
 
The oil tank is installed, the recuperator is temporarily put in place: photo-etched collars to be formed should soon fix it and the clamps which hold the hose are on standby.
 
6dbe6a10.jpg
 
I made a little “oil” for the hose and the can got a bit of it.
 
The exhausts are painted.
 
21dbd110.jpg

 

f9750510.jpg
 
More soon.
 
Pascal:pilot:

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good evening,
 
Thanks a lot! ;)

 

The can straps are done, the Serflex in place and a Gulf sticker brightens up the oil tank.
 
e0eb5b10.jpg
 
I drilled a hole in the axis of the cap and slipped a little “oil” in for more consistency: it comes from the top, flows down the side of the can to the bottom.
 
A terminal, screws and cable: the rear light is ready to be connected.
 
8a1fb910.jpg

 

Time to take care of the interior.
The first step is to start giving a little shine before riveting the aluminum sheets.

 

f8add510.jpg

 

c9c97a10.jpg
 
More soon.
 
Pascal:pilot:

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good evening,
 
Thank you very much Gentlemen!
 
The “bathtub” is:
- Polished,
- riveted,
- assembled (welded)
 
5f919a10.jpg

 

c7045d10.jpg
 
The gearbox control linkage has been modified: the White Metal part is cut and replaced by a blued brass one.
The selector is detailed with the addition of welds, a bolt accompanied by its nut and washers.
It’s more coherent, pretty… and I like it!
 
The original knob is very good.
I told myself that rather than painting it in wood tones, I would make one… in wood.
I cut a “cube” from a piece given to me by a friend (stratospheric model maker!!), of a species that I don’t remember.
I then simply turned it and varnished it.
This type of wood is very hard, but very beautiful.
 
4b755610.jpg
 
Not much image today (Las Vegas this morning, flight this afternoon), but work and lots of preparation and modifications which should quickly make progress in the cockpit.
Besides, since I like simplicity and think of everything…
I decided to drill the left side of the bathtub.
This is of course the thickest part, for a large diameter hole... with all my rivets next to it.
It was necessary to take out different diameters of drills and finish with the step drill.
 
9fe5dc10.jpg
 
Here is some of the prepared pieces.
 
c3126d10.jpg

 

f4e4a010.jpg
 
I reproduced the appearance of the anti-slip engraving on the pedals; for what we will see… but it’s there!
 
1fda4c10.jpg
 
And here is some of the painted pieces waiting for all their details.
 
6d617710.jpg

 

79a7aa10.jpg
 
That's it that's all.
 
Pascal:pilot:

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good evening,

 

Thank you!

 

Work on the interior continues, particularly on the dashboard.
I started from the principle that, although pretty, it was possible to add 2 or 3 details.
 
Some modifications are made to the pressure gauges (pressure connections, specific cable for temperatures) the starter push button is turned, the switches and other indicator lights connected, the support for the small panel created...
 
The rev counter is on stand-by: the needles must be painted.
The glasses will finalize the assembly of the meters.

 

99682510.jpg

 

35ebfb10.jpg

 

236dcb10.jpg

 

It's progressing slowly, but it's moving forward.

 

Pascal:pilot:

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might want to check the orientation of the rev counter with photos. Most were aligned so that max revs were at the 12 o'clock position (easier to see for the driver). The red needle is the "telltale" that is mechanically driven by the rev counter needle, so should also be at max revs (or more if you're modelling a lunched engine!). These telltales were re-settable using a button on the back of the instrument.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good evening,

 

Thank you very much guys!!

 

The Rev was installed straight and it was the same in the M23.

I was surprised as I also thought it was oriented.

 

Here is some progress again, still in the cabin.

 

Sewing workshop today!

The fabric straps provided in the kit went into the cabinet box.

New ones, made of lead sheet, are primed, painted, “sewn” and partly installed.

 

5607ab10.jpg

 

4cff0b10.jpg

 

bb78bf10.jpg

 

A few oils will finish the job.

 

 

The dashboard is completed and put in place.

 

0c89fa10.jpg

 

29c74610.jpg

 

d3851010.jpg

 

The fire extinguisher bottle is the next step: need to paint it and turn a part to make it a little better and connect the pull cable to it.
 

More soon.

Pascal:pilot:

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

More super progress Pascal, have to agree that the belts look very realistic - you did a great job with the sewing needles....!! :)

 

I really like the wiring you've done behind the instrument panel too (actually I really like everything you've done so far!)

 

Keith

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...