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Everything posted by Jo NZ

  1. Absolutely. My chemistry teacher was a northerner we called Mr Wrench (aka Dave). At the time he was a prop forward and captain of Harlequins. His comment- “don’t play league, it’s a blooody poofs game”. It’s stayed with me ever since.
  2. A bit of progress... I've made a complete new bonnet. The first one was copied from the car when it was at Bonhams in 2012, and that bonnet was originally made for the two seat version in 1946. So it's wrong for 1932! There are more vents in the older bonnet, and the bulges over the magnetos are different. For some reason making it was much more difficult than the first one... The sanding dust is from making the base for the flyscreen How do I make Basswood look like Oak? I've also mucked around with the oil cooler, the pipe routing is different. In it's 1970 rebuild it seemed to acquire some brass plumbing fittings - I've reverted to hoses...
  3. And if you’re a local how do you pronounce Cirencester? Sissister?
  4. Four, I think. DB1 was the flight test aircraft, DB2 and DB3 electronics test, and I think the first production aircraft had flown too. GEC got 50m for the cancellation, about 45m more than they would have got if it had carried on.
  5. I was surprised too. Laying out the equipment racks for the AEW Nimrod we actually measured inside the aircraft, there appeared to be a lot more room than Hawker Siddleley had allocated. That’s when they produced the GA drawing showing the tolerances. This was particularly difficult for running waveguide the length of the aircraft ,a pieces had to be made on site to fit and then returned to the manufacturer to be finished and tested. Another feature of the build was fitting metric equipment into an imperial aircraft. Ever seen a 3/8 BSF bolt with a 10mm hex head?
  6. The difference in width of the many 8 x 4 foot sheets of aluminium used to clad the fuselage. 121 feet ( from long ago memory) at a 4 ft width is is about 35 sheets (it’s late, so about...) say 36 for easy division . Plus or minus 6 inches over 36 sheets allows for 1/6 of an inch per sheet. (.160” or 4mm) if they were all short, you get - 6 inches, if they were all long, + 6 inches. Does that make sense?
  7. Nice to see kapton sellotape being used on this build, we used it in the ‘90s on space shuttle equipment. It was a bit more expensive then!
  8. Good grief, I didn’t realise they were is service for so long!
  9. Don't fret too much about the length. Due to sheet tolerances, and according to works drawings, it can vary by +/- 6 inches.
  10. A beautiful build. One minor comment - should it have German pattern Jerricans, which weren't issued until 1939?
  11. No worries. It does look a little squat through a close up lens. Here's a real one for comparison It is quite short and fat.... PS can whoever moved this from 1/16 armour please put it back again? That's where it belongs.....
  12. I'm waiting for someone to work out how to light up under the sail panels - each car had its ident colour illuminated at night.
  13. 1/43 is a strange scale because it was originally used for trains (O gauge) which in the UK is 1/43.5. Dinky made model cars to suit the railways, starting in the 1930s, and lots of other die cast manufacturers followed suit. Marklin determined the size for O gauge trains in the early 1900s, making it “smaller than 1 gauge”. Go figure! More useless info, HO is “half O” or 1/87.....
  14. According to Heng Long it's 1/16; probably more like 1/14
  15. Built some time ago, this shows it pre-weathering (primarily achieved by driving around the garden). I've also added squadron markings since then. Several mods to the interior and electronics. External mods include the front equipment rack and opening drivers hatch (for the control switches) It's in the uniquely coloured NZ MERDC camo.
  16. Nice build. I converted a 1/16 Panzer into a Stug, which is how I know that this one must have been built in May 1943 - just before the smoke grenades were deleted and zimmerit started to be applied! Mines exactly the same build.
  17. I use my Sieg X2 mill too, like Dan, but in a slightly different way. My tools are all custom made for one depth only - I can see the advantages in Dan's method, you can make a variety of louvres! If you look at the female tool, the distance between the slot and the end of the tool defines the spacing - the last pressing is pushed up against it to get it consistent. I also use a fence to line up the edge of the sheet. Oh, and the reason for the post - locking the spindle. I don't have a built in lock on my mill, so heres proof that Heath Robinson is alive and well and living in NZ... The tooling And the result, WIP on Bentley bonnet no. 2
  18. A couple of differences from the procar. This was an IMSA spec car so had wider rear arches and a larger vent in the front bonnet. Renaissance used to make a resin transkit for the conversion. The decals fit well, so no problems there. You should look at period pictures to get the correct blue - some of the die casts out there are a bit garish!
  19. Jo NZ


    While you’re there ask him where the choke knob is....
  20. Jo NZ


    Who? And from a contemporary group: It doesn’t matter who you vote for, the government always gets in
  21. Jo NZ

    Dicky boost pump

    From the look of the hospital you’re not in Charlie’s in Perth. It looks much too good!
  22. That colour combination was generally referred to by car dealers as "Sh*t over Sawdust"
  23. ...and don't forget to cut the inlet manifold in half...
  24. Never usually one for subtitled films, I thought that the original 6 parter (trilogy?) in Swedish was completely gripping. One of the best.
  25. I'd go with grey primer first - white always seems to pull away from edges and is difficult to get a consistent coat with. A light coating of grey (which has denser colour) allows the white to adhere better. Overall it means a thinner coat to achieve a pure white result.
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