Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jo NZ

  1. Jo NZ

    Fiat 806gp full-scratchbuild 1:12

    Absolutely sweet as!
  2. Jo NZ

    Mercedes Benz SSKL, Matchbox 1:32

    Welcome to the hand spoking club. Now you have to get it right 3 more times...
  3. Hi Olivier Just to add to the colour information.... Full size chrome plate is usually three separate platings. First, a copper flash is applied which acts as a primer. Then a nickel coat, which gives the colour, and finally a chrome coat which gives a hard and shiny finish. There isn't much colour in the actual chrome, so you get an impression of depth through it to the nickel. Jo
  4. Mine were off white too, and on a reasonably recent kit. Watch the fairing, it's easy to split the joint with handling . And - if you do tape the decals to the window, put them in a ziplock bag (unless you live in the Sahara)
  5. I had some 1965/66 Ford Arcadian Blue mixed for a 1966 GT40, and the paint code that the paint shop recognised was "F". Refreshing after all the six to eight figure codes...
  6. Jo NZ

    Battle of Britain Model squadron - RC

    I remember going to a lecture by the guy who made the Me110 for the BoB film (incidentally he also made the Sally B B-17). It was about 8ft wingspan and the two bombs it dropped weighed 2 lbs each -they needed to be that heavy to get the right trajectory. The camera crew asked him to fly straight towards them and drop the bombs. He was surprised and said that might not be such a good idea, 2 lbs of bomb skipping across the grass... The crew asked for it to be done anyway. After the first run, they decided to film from off centre, and used two large pieces of plywood to hide behind. A 2lb weight at around 40mph, heading straight towards you....
  7. Use a light coat of metal etch primer to key the paint. I use a rattle can from Dulux (Australia) but any hardware store should have it. Get the one for Brass, Zinc etc.
  8. I've also seen it done on 1/43rds with a section from a plastic shopping bag (save them now!) and a hairdryer to shape it, followed by a coat of matt car-cover colour.
  9. Jo NZ

    Get your Wingnuts Brisfits while you can!

    Sorry! I know some of the guys at Wingnut Wings, they are really straight up and down people.
  10. Jo NZ

    Get your Wingnuts Brisfits while you can!

    If I recall correctly WNW are owned by Peter Jackson, who while not a Native American speaker does at least speak New Zealand English like he was born here (he was, by the way). The operation is run from Wellington by other New Zealand speakers. Bear in mind that they are in a competitive market, and while they may want to let everyone know what they're doing next week, being beaten to the market by another player is a very good reason to stay schtum.
  11. Jo NZ

    Airfix A20440 Bentley 4.5 Litre Blower kit

    As far as the distributor goes, it never had one. There are two magnetos on brackets on either side of the front of the engine. Plug leads can be quite thick as they were generally wrapped in asbestos. One set of leads to each side.
  12. Jo NZ

    Stug III Ausf. G MG shield support

    The Machine gun shield on the Stug III G and early Stug IV... It doesn't stand up on it's own. It's hinged at the bottom, and would have to balance upright while the Stug drove around, fired it's gun etc. How do I know? Well, when Heng Long issued the 1/16 Panzer III, I decided to convert it to a Stug. Of course, once I'd got well into the build, Heng Long issued a Stug.... Here's some pictures showing the opened loaders hatch supporting the shield The way it works is quite clever. If the shield is laid flat above the closed hatch, opening the hatch pushes on the curved support on the shield, lifts the shield, and the tag welded to the hatch cover engages with a pin on the shield. That's how the shield stays up. Here's my 1/16 version I must finish it sometime....
  13. I remember being driven past Bovingdon while they were filming. Saw the three Mossies taking off in formation. How long before I can see that again????
  14. For ripping away plastic I prefer the file that shall not be named on the forum. It begins with B and is synonymous with a fatherless child. A bit coarser than a second cut, I think.
  15. I'm occasionally struck by madness. I think that this was one instance... I decided that the Airfix Bentley could be turned into Tim Birkin's Brooklands car. So far I've: Lengthened the chassis Built a complete new body - from plastic strip over formers Made a new bonnet from aluminium Here's where it is so far. You may recognize a few Airfix parts...
  16. Good news with the stripes. I made the no.1 (blue) car from the Trumpeter kit. Apart from the kit not having enough striping, the aftermarket decals repeated the mistake... The McLaren racing badges were added by Bruce McLaren, who was driving. The silver fern and NZ symbol was difficult to see - there aren't many pictures of the offside of the car and brake dust covered them up. I've circled them in the picture below - only just visible! The Firestones were quietly changed for Goodyears early in the race because the Firestones were chunking. I think McLaren had a Goodyear contract...
  17. Great to see the 1966 winner, and a nice build. But what is it with the manufacturers? Missing decals on the Trumpeter and now the Fujimi - do they just copy each other? What's missing? The Mclaren racing shield at the front of the side windows The "NZ" and silver fern on the offside front wing The silver stripes that continue over the rear spoiler Not hard to do, it's on all the contemporary photos. And BTW, the car ran Goodyears for most of the race.... (not a crit on the build but on the accuracy of the model). WHY can't they get it right????
  18. Jo NZ

    A Spitfire diorama...which kits?...

    There is an engine in the 1/48 series of metal Revival Spitfire kits. If you can get hold of one it could be copied.... I have one but it's a PR XIX, so a Griffon. How about a 1/48 Mossie kit for a Merlin?
  19. The original moulds are from the 50's...
  20. He will probably find the cylinder that isn't firing by spitting on his hand and touching each exhaust manifold port in turn. The one that isn't firing doesn't sizzle... The Auto-Union mechanics used to do that in the 30s with the V-16. I was disappointed to see that nowadays they use a laser thermometer. No sense of adventure!
  21. Jo NZ

    New Zealand joins the P-8 club

    Another factor in moving to Ohakea is that the Orions currently have to fly there to get weaponed up - Make sense to do it all in one place.
  22. Have you seen the new Tamiya lacquer paints? A starting point would be LP-7 pure red, and there is also a racing red.
  23. Be aware that the body will have changed in small areas depending on the model year. I don't know too much about Mustangs (I've only driven a Mach 1 :-)), but with Corvettes the subtle changes year to year with bonnet and wing vents, ,exhaust outlets etc. enable you to pinpoint the actual year (or half year) when it was built.
  24. Seeing that some of the window blinds are down (in 1/144th!) the cabin crew will soon be round to get them up for take-off...
  25. I have the CAR Ferrari 330 P4 kit. It's signed by Bosica on the baseplate. Still waiting to be built...