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Back in Black (1/48 Eduard XVI low-back)


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Howdy gang,

 

Been a bit pre-occupied, but yesterday was a nice sunny day and I had the place largely to myself, so I got a start in:

 

I actually had to peel the plastic off first, though the kit's been sitting in the stash for a while!

 

9VyMftKh.jpg?1

 

I've had an idea for a subject for a while now, but I'll let you ponder my enigmatic title while we focus on the more immediate question: Will gingerbob actually manage to get somewhere with a build?

 

Now, I'm probably the last one here to actually BUILD an Eduard Spitfire, but nevertheless I'm going to offer some advice along the way- it might help to give the false impression that I know what I'm doing.  If necessary, though, I'll admit it if I discover a BAD way to go about it...

 

Wheel well- it may not look like much, but there are (or will be in a moment) eight parts, not counting the wing itself!  For ONE well, that is.  It is a bit like playing Jenga in reverse, or starting a house of cards.  It is also an act of faith, because there's no way to do any real test fit to ensure it's all going to work out right.

 

G4FCrLCh.jpg?1

 

Getting as far as the above photo took a while, and involved little parts repeatedly falling out of place, through the wheel opening, and on to the table or my lap.  The second side went together much faster, because I knew (approximately) what to do.

 

uEuRKMbh.jpg

 

By the time I reached this state of play, I had a headache and neck strain from focusing intently on things too small for my middle-aged eyes to see properly.  You'll note that I haven't yet tested whether the upper surfaces will go on the way RJ intended- I meant to do so before posting, but it was time for dinner and such.

 

As indicated by Eduard's instructions, I did start with the main spar (G76), though I only tacked one end in place, because there was just enough play that I didn't want to get to the other end and find it didn't fit.  I also found it hard to judge whether it was at the right angle, so I next fitted the "straight" part that divides the leg opening from the wheel well itself (starboard side G70, though other versions have an alternate part).  For the wheel well "ring", I found that it worked well to start with the outermost part (G17), because it has a small "key" and could be held in place (after sufficient practice) long enough to touch the liquid-cement brush to the join with some confidence.  The last part I installed was G16 (with G46 already on it)- the thing the gear leg will (hopefully) eventually plug into.  I've got to say that so far I'm impressed- everything fitted precisely, though I'd hate to build an example of this if the molds wore enough to have flash on the part edges!

 

Oh, one other thing- I've been gradually learning that it is sometimes easier to do a sub-assembly while the "base" part is still on the sprue, in this case the wing.  Most of my kits, however, immediately have basic fuselage and wing parts cut free so that I can hold them together and get a preview!

 

bob

Edited by gingerbob
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Hockeyboy, I looked up the instructions on the 72nd kit (been tempted, but desperately trying to limit "stash sprawl" into 72nd - except for exceptions, of course...)  Anyway, similar, but the parts count has been reduced a bit, which was a relief- can't imagine trying to manipulate the-same-but-scaled-down bits into place!

 

No fresh piccies, but, in spite of trying to give myself a break, I did make sure to make at least a little forward movement yesterday- joined the top and bottom cowl halves.  We'll see how they clean up....  I also put the cockpit sidewalls in place in their fuselage halves, contrary to instructions.  I'm always a little suspicious of those "stick the pod into the fuselage shell" kits, because (I imagine) any fit error or alignment problem (not that I'd ever do something like that!) might then reveal itself in sides that don't join the fuselage shell neatly.  Oh, and I put the tailwheel "socket" in place, mostly lest I forget to do it later!

 

I also fitted the little separate leading-edge fillets, and looking from ahead one seems to angle differently from the other, so we'll see what happens when they are introduced to the wing.

 

I really need an Optivisor or the like.  I've got a magnifying desk lamp, but the clip that holds it in place broke, and I haven't bothered to try to fix it.  I just got an idea, though!  While I appreciate Eduard's attention to detail, I'm not a big fan of individual microscopic parts, and my eyes simply aren't up to looking at something two inches in front of them like in the good old days.

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On 16/04/2020 at 07:08, gingerbob said:

It is a bit like playing Jenga in reverse, or starting a house of cards.  It is also an act of faith, because there's no way to do any real test fit to ensure it's all going to work out right.

seeing this, I went and clipped off the wings and main spar on the Mk.VIII I got free...

(A random, a mate said someone he was working for has a spitfire kit, and did I want it.... I was duly presented with a profipack VIII minus the instructions..

which was nice

 

.) 

 

Anyway, when I actually built and finished a model ,  the airfix farbric wing Hurricane,  I used the upper wing to hold the front spar in place, taped togther, then wicked in some TET.

A dry run of the Eduard wing shows the same can be done, which will at least give you a squarely aligned front spar. 

 

Initial place hold of spar was blutack, stops it falling over

 

I theorise that the other parts can then be placed, upper wing retaped and used as alignment guide again.

 

The other tip is this, TINY drops of superglue, applied with a needle, can be used to tack parts in place, if wrong, remove, scrape of glue, start again.

when happy, they can be fixed with wicked in TET.

 

HTH

Edited by Troy Smith
add vid....
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Howdy Bob!

 

On 4/16/2020 at 7:08 AM, gingerbob said:

I'm probably the last one here to actually BUILD an Eduard Spitfire

Nope. I have 2 in the stash and they look lovely. Your build will be very useful to me I can see :D.

 

11 hours ago, gingerbob said:

my eyes simply aren't up to looking at something two inches in front of them like in the good old days.

Neither are mine. But I got some strong reading glasses and 2 good desk lamps which take off a lot of the strain.

 

On 4/16/2020 at 7:08 AM, gingerbob said:

I'll let you ponder my enigmatic title

Interesting title, but no idea :(

 

Cheers,

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In the last episode:

13 hours ago, gingerbob said:

I've got a magnifying desk lamp, but the clip that holds it in place broke, and I haven't bothered to try to fix it.  I just got an idea, though!

 

 

My desk is a hollow-core door blank.  It suddenly occurred to me that the lamp itself just plugs into the mount with a round(ish) shaft.  Hey, sez I, why not just drill a hole in the corner of the desk (where there's solid wood)?  At afternoon chores I borrowed a suitable bit, because mine didn't go that big.  And voila!

 

E9Qf1AJh.jpg

 

Oh nuts, I just eliminated an excuse...

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31 minutes ago, gingerbob said:

Oh nuts, I just eliminated an excuse..

 it's actually quite theraputic.....  as along as it goes well.

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235071371-airfix-cromwell-been-a-long-time-since-i-did-a-tank

 

The little play I had with Eduard Spitfire...having wrestled and chopped with less optimal kits,  I'd say just get on with it,  it's not shake and bake but not difficult with a bit care. 

Just don't get bogged down in the painting... though if doing this one..

TE199, flown by Air Officer Commanding, No.21 Group RAF, Swinderby  1948.  Overall gloss black with gold spinner, wingtips and serials. 

13-2.jpg

you can just rattle can it... ;) 

 

It's supposed to be fun.... :rofl2:

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I'm liking the kit so far, Troy.  Complicated yes, which doesn't particularly worry me, but I'm quite impressed with it.  And I liked your suggestions of how to get started with the wheel wells.  Rather than super glue, I just "tacked" with Tamiya Super Thin- the merest dab- in a couple of places, hoping that I could shift if necessary, or even pull it out and try again.  But everything seemed to come together.

 

My problem was just too much looking down and too much squinting.  Too much laptop time in addition didn't help.  It took me a while, but I finally connected such activities with the "3 days before it's better" headaches/wanting to keep my left eye closed/sore neck phenomenon.  Now usually I can feel the strain building and switch away from the activity before it hits critical mass, but I was simply too gung-ho to stop! 

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23 minutes ago, gingerbob said:

Rather than super glue, I just "tacked" with Tamiya Super Thin- the merest dab- in a couple of places, hoping that I could shift if necessary, or even pull it out and try again.

Tacking is a really good technique.  I like supergue for the sheer spped of grab, but I have been very impressed with TET as well.

 

Something I might have to add to my sig line,  which i have posted a few times, but "if the technique, tools and materials you used give you the result you want, then they are the "right" ones"

I find it handy seeing how other folk tackle problems,  and the variety of solutions on display.   One great thing about people taking the time ti documenting their builds.

 

I might just have to 'have at' my freebie Spitfire.....  need to get the Cromwell finished first though. Nearly done.

 

Look forward to progress! 

cheers

T

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