1/72 Italeri UH-1B Huey in a Japanese Scheme

[Nigel Heath]

This is my next project:

The kit consists of two dark green sprues:

The moulding looks pretty good but unfortunately its all raised detail and panel lines. I need to have a closer look at it and see what can be done about the raised lines.

Here are the clear parts and decals:

I also have two PE sets, one specifically for this kit and the other one for the Hobby Boss kit. I got that because its self coloured and I'm sure most of it can be adapted in some fashion:

Bye for now,

Nigel

[philp]

Have the B, C and F from them in the stash, also an ESCI D and a Hobby Boss F.

As usual will be watching.

[modelling minion]

Nice choice Nigel.

Will you be building it using the decal scheme in the kit or are you going to build it in the nice scheme used by rescue birds based on Okinawa? Now that would look nice!

Craig.

[S5 modeller]

Welcome to the group build Nigel.

Not a lot of plastic in the box, but I'm sure you'll turn it into something spectacular.

Looking forward to lots of scratch building and detailing.

You looking into the option of a full re scribe?

[Nigel Heath]

Will you be building it using the decal scheme in the kit or are you going to build it in the nice scheme used by rescue birds based on Okinawa?

I think I'll just go with the scheme from the kit, it looks attractive enough and should look nice alongside my Japanese Flying Banana.

You looking into the option of a full re scribe?

I am considering a lot of rescribing but the problem is that some of the raised lines are mixed in with raised rivets so would be difficult to deal with unless I sand off all the surface detail. As I say I have to weigh up the options.

[modelling minion]

In that case there's a couple of pictures on this link you might find helpful, just scroll down past the US stuff. And try not to distracted by looking at all the aircraft listed on the left, otherwise you can spend hours looking through it (ask me how I know!).

http://www.gonavy.jp/bbs2-h1f.html

Craig.

[AlexN]

Hello Nigel, you could use a very fine chisel (I'm sure you have one ) to scrape off the panel welds.

I'm not sure which is worse from an overall point of view - the older style of panel 'welds' or the modern predilection for impossibly wide trenches (wider than the corresponding framework underneath).

At this point I'm favouring the former as they are more easy to replace with (delicately) scribed lines; very easy if you have the RB Productions scribers - and reels and reels of DYMO tape...

I noticed the RAAF scheme on the transfer sheet, nice to know that we over here aren't entirely forgotten! Given the Flying Banana scheme, however, I'm not sorry that you will be doing the Japanese scheme .

Looking forward to this one, as usual.

Cheers,

Alex.

[milktrip]

Welcome Nigel.

I'm looking forward to some dayglo orange and a 'Nigey build'. I've used the Eduard hobby boss PE set on an italeri kit and found it okay to use.

[Nigel Heath]

Right, let's make a start. This shows the kind of surface detail on this kit which is quite crisp but there is the odd bit of flash here and there:

These three raised lines on the tail I should be able to rescribe. The problem ones are the ones next to the rows of rivets, those will probably have to stay as they are:

These horrid moulded belts on the seats will have to go. The printed PE set offers some lovely replacements:

Here are the seats minus the belts:

Then I added the frames to the seats from the other PE set:

The two sets have turned out to be quite complimentary, I glad I got the pre-coloured set even though it will mean a bit more work.

To add part 12 to the centre console I will have to remove this moulded detail. I also discovered that the PE is about 0.6mm wider than the kit's console:

Here I've removed the detail. I have also found that the Hobby Boss instrument panel is too big to fit the kit's moulding. (The coloured one is underneath):

I think the best way round this is to scratch build a new instrument panel.

There are PE replacements for these foot rests so I set about removing the moulded ones. There is also this PE part to go here:

To give that part a more substantial mounting and to close off the gaps I added a rectangle of card to the front of the console. The width issue was solved by adding 0.4mm side cheeks to the console:

Here I'm starting of the fabrication of the new instrument cluster:

I then added the binnacle using 0.25mm card like this:

I finished off the gluing of that with a clothes peg clamp:

That can now harden up overnight. I'll trim and shape the ends in situ.

Bye for now,

Nigel

[S5 modeller]

Very nice work Nigel. Glad to see the ill fitting pe hasn't slowed you down. You've just took it in your stride.

Keep up the good work.

Matt

[abat]

I noticed the RAAF scheme on the transfer sheet, nice to know that we over here aren't entirely forgotten!

Nice to have but Italeri decals have pretty scrawny kangaroos. They need replacing unless you have a sense of humour.

[abat]

Glad to see you building this Nigel, it's the same kit and Eduard etch that I'm using for my RAN UH-1B. Look forward to watching your progress.

[Nigel Heath]

There are some visible ejector marks on the cockpit side walls. I have started to sort them here also bearing in mind there is some PE which at least partially covers them:

Here I've sorted the ejector marks (one needed a little filler) and done one half with the PE:

Next the cabin bench, these moulded belts needed removing:

I gouged one a bit too much and had to go back with some filler. I'm also removing these moulded in rings even though there are no PE replacements:

I've also done a bit more on the IP, shaping the ends and adding the PE part. The back wall is now ready for assembly:

Next I folded up this PE part for the overhead console as well as starting on filling the sink marks and dressing the ejector marks:

For the foot rests I have a choice but I'm going with the pre-coloured as they look more to scale:

Here I have built up a fair bit of the cockpit front:

One point to note is that the instructions place the control columns facing the wrong way. If fitted like that they would foul the instruments:

For the roof lining I used some aluminium mesh and embossing foil to create the diamond quilting effect:

Here's that installed along with the overhead console:

Finally I have added the seat and rear bulkhead as well as the remainder of the controls:

It's come along quite well today, I should be getting some paint on tomorrow I should think.

Bye for now,

Nigel

[S5 modeller]

Nice neat work, as usual, Nigel.

The pe certainly adds more depth and realism.

I think the chap that designed the tooling for this kit also designed my ah-1g tooling. Seems to be about the same amount of stupidly placed ejector pin marks.

It's going to look brilliant with some paint on.

Matt

[milktrip]

Coming along beautifully Nigel, and quickly I might add.

As Matt has said the PE will create a lot depth. Thats the thing with utility helicopters, the interior is far more open so can sometimes look a bit too bare in my opinion. Although, we all know how much you love to build and add details, which is fun for us to watch. A bit late now but the CMK resin interior set was a joy to work with I found. Also gives you a choice of 2 rear bulkheads.

Looking forward to seeing some paint

[modelling minion]

Excellent work as usual Nigel, very impressive.

I like the quilted effect on the cabin roof, looks really good.

[Nigel Heath]

The instructions state that the gearbox should be added to the back of the bulkhead before the fuselage is closed up. I mocked it all up to check out the implications for painting etc:

I think it can fairly easily be added after close up which will make sorting out the hole to be discussed later easier to sort out. With the engine cowlings in place I got an idea of how much would be visible in this area:

With the roof in place I discovered there was this alarming hole right into the cockpit:

I'm not sure why the have scalloped out the back line of the roof like that. It serves no purpose other than to create a hole. There was also a good 1mm wide gap between the top of the bulkhead and the fuselage:

I consulted a cutaway drawing I had found to see it that could shed any light on this area:

I have noted that the swash plate (78) and its push rods are missing from the kit and will have to be added. I had a think and came up with this partial fix for the gap and hole, I made a thin strip of the embossing foil:

Using gentle clamping pressure that was then bent into an L section:

After a bit of trimming and cutting it was glued along the back edge of the roof along with a thin shaped strip fitted to the roof profile. I had to use hair grips to clamp the latter in place:

That has fixed the hole and gap as far as the cabin interior is concerned, I should be able to sort the externals with some card and filler:

Concentrating on the roof, these lumps on the side of it are supposed to be navigation lights:

Note also the white area round the far cabin air vent, that was due to superglue which had leaked onto the outside and I had to clean off with acetone.

I filed off the front of the light ready for replacement with some clear plastic later:

I also drilled out the cabin air intake vents at the front:

From reference photos I spotted these four things under the IP binnacle and added them using short lengths of 0.5 x 0.4mm strip:

I also spotted this piping under the IP which I added using a bent length of 0.9mm plastic rod:

I also added some filler above the bench seat which is just about visible in the photo above. I don't think there is too much left to do in the cockpit before paint can be applied but I probably should get the doors ready first so that they can receive the cockpit interior colour.

Maybe paint tomorrow then, bye for now,

Nigel

[Romeo Alpha Yankee]

Wow Nigel, you are going to town on this build. Your detailing is in some cases quite simple enhancements which will make the final finish that little bit extra special.

I think I will 'borrow' some of your mods for my build when I start it

I am intrigued by the gap in the roof. I have a 'B' in the stash and will have to dig it out to see if my roof panel is the same.

[S5 modeller]

I think I would be alarmed too, Nigel, if I had a gap in the roof like that !

Like you said it serves absolutely no purpose being there, except to maybe catch out the unwary modeller.

The quilting on the roof looks superb too.

Matt

Edited August 10, 2016 by S5 modeller

[milktrip]

I forgot about that gap. Good fix with the quilting though.

Apologies, but there was no possible way I could attend the AMS meeting last night

[Nigel Heath]

Today I started by cleaning up the doors and added a 0.4mm brass rod door handles to replace the moulded ones:

A few more pieces of PE were added to the seats, these are now ready for painting:

I have realised that the back of the instruments is somewhat visible through the downward facing quarter lights so I set about mass producing some instruments (16 actually) using thin tube and my guillotine:

They were then added to the back along with some thick card, the white box on the side is supposed to be the compass:

Then 0.2mm copper wires were added using a drop of superglue:

I have also replaced the front door handles with brass and given the lower navigation lights the same treatment as the upper ones:

When the glue was set I removed the pip inside with a grinding tool in my motor tool, taking care not to generate too much heat:

The final job of the day was to do what rescribing could be done now mainly using a Trumpeter scriber and a double thickness of insulation tape:

I also rescribed some better defined shut lines round the front doors:

Still no paint today but most of the cockpit parts are now ready for some so that should happen tomorrow.

Bye for now,

Nigel

[S5 modeller]

Lovely work.

Didn't realise how small the kit is, the pic of the instrument panel makes it look sizeable, but then to see the tubes you are using for the rear of the instruments in the milk bottle top puts it all into perspective.

I don't know how you do it.

Matt

Edited August 10, 2016 by S5 modeller

[milktrip]

Remarkable as ever Nigel. Love that IP; what tubing did you use for that?

[Nigel Heath]

It was about 0.9mm in diameter I think.

[TonyTiger66]

Lovely work Nigel. The wiring on the rear of the i/p is incredible ! I really like the brass door handles too. Small touches that cumulatively improve the model immensely.

Best regards

Tony