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S5 modeller

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  1. Postman delivered me this, a couple of weeks ago... Got myself a jj 'prise, just need to sort out the Aztec design. Been looking for decals or paint masks, and to be honest, what I'm finding is going to cost more than I paid for the kit. Matt
  2. Pete, I did reinforce the seam at the tail end. It was giving me trouble, it kept popping open, so I glued some scrap sprue pieces along it. It helped immensely, and it is remaining shut. The primer has been left overnight to dry, and it revealed this.... Still some work required. images upload Due to the mismatch in the fuselage halves, I've had to glue a scrap of styrene in. This now allows the canopy to fit fairly closely, without a major gap. I'm wondering how good I need to get the seams, as I don't think I can get them perfect. Just how much could I pass off as battle damage, and general wear and tear, after all it is quite a battered ship! Matt
  3. Would have loved to pick up some of those unboxed kits! Genuine ones seem to go for a fair price, when they become available. Just a small update today. Gave the body a squirt of primer, just to see how my filling looked. Not so good. As you can see I've had to do some more filling, just gave it another blast, and will see how it looks when it's dry. Matt
  4. Nice work. It's looking like a nice little kit, we'll worth the price you paid for it. The only other kit I've seen of this subject was a horrendously expensive resin kit. I think it will look cool in a little diorama. Looking forward to more. Matt
  5. Thanks for all the input guys. Andy and smd70, those are some beautiful builds there, don't think mine will turn out any where near as good. Mike, this is the same reason why I've avoided builds like this, the weathering scares me to death. I'll look into the reccomended paints, to see if I have anything similar, as with the current situation I can't get any more. Dermot, I don't know about the holes, but I will find out in due course. Second round of filling and sanding done. I've been having trouble with this last seam, on the top of the tail, due to the lack of support under it it kept popping open. Due to this I decided to add the section on the underside to add some strength. This of course came with it's own problems. As per the rest of this kit, it fits where it touches. Had to use loads of tape to close it up the best I can. This is the best I could get it. The second picture shows the worst of the gaps. Also I had to shim the sides of the loading ramp, due to poor fit. I glued it shut as I'm not bothered about having it opening. I've attached the two side panels, and the wing pivot axle, to the base plate. I've sprayed it with poundlands finest Matt silver, ready for top coats and weathering. Matt
  6. There is indeed some green in there @HoolioPaulio. Going to use olive drab I think. Not sure if I should use enamel or acrylic to paint this kit. Going to use my airbrush, hopefully, but not tried spraying enamel before. This is going to be my first attempt at weathering and chipping, never tried either before. Got a pan, in my mind, to use masking fluid over a base coat of silver, to simulate bare metal exposed under the paint. I can see it working in my head, but don't know if I can pull it off practically.
  7. Just popped over to your threads @Pete in Lincs. That's some very nice work you've done there, much better use of the kit. On a side note, has anyone got any clue about what colours to use? The instructions only call out brick red, silver and black. Sanding away at the filler at the moment. Will put some pictures up later. Matt
  8. Thanks Paul, that's a very admirable action taken by your company, I hope you all make it through. My company side lined me with the excuse of my asthma, putting me in an at risk group. Funny really, but it didn't concern them the week before. Back to the build in hand. Started with the filling today. Slapped on copious ammounts of perfect plastic putty, with quite a lot on the rear section. Back filled the rear of the skirt with squadron green putty. Just need to sand this lot back now. Matt
  9. Thanks Mike and Tom. The work situation isn't too bad as I will still get 80% of my full pay, just to sit at home doing nowt. Started building, and boy this is going to be fun, like Chris said earlier it's going to be a filler queen for sure. Decided to ignore the instructions, up to a point, as I want to assemble the main body of the ship. Hopefully this will help in the painting process. I started at the nose end. I removed the location pins as well, because I was struggling to get the two halves aligned. You can see the problem here, this is the best I could align them, and you can see the mis-match in the canopy surround. I thought it would be better to have the error here, as it is easier to deal with. Another issue here,part distortion. I think one half of the body was bent out of shape. Cured with a bit of masking tape. As you can see here, the kit kind of fits, where it touches. Started cleaning up the seams, ready for the filler. Matt
  10. Thanks for the warm welcome back @Pete in Lincs, @Hunter Rose, @spruecutter96. As promised here are the sprue shots... This is how it was all packed in the box, everything in one bag, with the clear parts just floating around loose. Main hull halves. Lovely raised panel lines everywhere. Cockpit insert. Nice details on the base plate. Rear, for want of a better word, skirt. More raised panel lines. Front skirt, complete with sink marks, which seems to be a feature of this kit. Ahh, a cute little Boba. Assorted loose parts that have become detached in the bag. The canopy, which is nice and clear, but has some distortion to it. We even get a little han solo frozen in Carbonite. Why he's molded in clear I don't know. We even get a stand, which is nice, will help to display this awkward shaped ship! upload image online Very basic instructions, apparently there are only 3 colour call outs for this kit, me thinks some references will be required. Work has started, and I will post some work up later. Matt
  11. Hi chaps. It's been a long time since I posted on here. As I've just been laid off work, for at least the next month due to coronavirus, I have decided to throw myself into my modeling again. This kit has been in my stash for about 3 years, I picked it up at the huddersfield show. It's an old airfix kit of slave 1. There's no scale on the box, but I seem to remember reading it was something weird like 1:83! As you can see the box has seen better days. Have made a start, and will post up the obligatory sprue shots tomorrow. Matt
  12. I thought this too. I've got a bit of orange peel, but it's in the gloss I think. I'm pretty sure there wasn't any in the colour coat. I've left the imperfections in the base coat, as I got caught up in the moment, and applied the gloss coat..
  13. Morning chaps. I know it's been a while since I last updated this build, but you know how it is. Got a paint question. The body shell is sitting on my tamiya paint stand, in it's final colour coat, but I'm having trouble with the engine cover. I thought this would be the final layer of paint. On closer inspection I noticed 4 small blemishes, on the left hand side of this picture, in the paint. They are barely visible, but I know they are there. Is it worth wet sanding to get them out, or should I just leave them in there? To my eye they stick out like a sore thumb, and I would love to remove them, but is it worth the effort? Overall I'm happy with the rest of the paint work, and the body came out lovely. Can't understand how the blemishes ended up in the paint, as I made sure everything was clean before painting. What's everyone's thoughts on it? Here's how the rest of the paint looks. Matt
  14. According to an article I read, they tried to dyno test the only working car, and it destroyed a 1000hp dyno!
  15. Thanks for the replies guys. It was indeed the smts resin kit I found, but it's too small for my liking, and a bit pricey. I've seen the die cast cars they are well represented on ebay and Google. Would be nice to see MFH tackle the car in one of their Wonder kits but doubt I could afford one. To be honest I never thought of it as a niche subject to cover, as I have seen more "niche" cars made by mainstream manufacturers. Shame the real car never made it to the roads, but it comes to something when the head of TVR called it "too dangerous" for the general public! Mind you, I'm sure I remember years ago that Keith Flint, late of the prodigy, actually owned one. I could be wrong on that though, my memory does like to play little tricks on me like that. Matt
  16. Hi chaps. Does anyone know of a kit of the tvr speed 12? Had a Google, and can only come up with a 1/43 scale resin kit, and it either seems to be out of production, or very expensive. Has no one done an injected kit in 1/24 scale? Thanks for looking. Matt
  17. Morning chaps. Calling this done now. It has been presented, and used, and to be honest it's most probably dead now. Will post an RFI shortly. Matt
  18. Update time again. Running out of time to get this done, need it for Saturday evening, and at the rate I'm going the paint might still be wet on it! Time for a long and drawn out process now, and one I'm not looking forward to, cutting out the decals. Couldn't source any clear decal paper in time, so a check through the stash turned up some white paper. Only trouble is I've now got to cut out each letter individually. My weapons of choice for this are a new stanley blade, as I can't find my stash of new scalpel blades at the moment, and the scissors off my trusty Swiss army knife. The scissors are really sharp and produce a nice neat cut. Wish me luck, I'm going in. Matt
  19. Thanks Pete. Small update for you. Mind you, it's only a small step, but lots of fiddly making. Started on the diamond pattern closer to the hand grip. I don't think this section is going to be super accurate to the screen bat, but it's the best I can do. Painted a section tamiya flat white, had about 10 coats to attain coverage. Don't think it helped that in the past I must have thinned the entire jar for airbrushing. Measured round the circumference of the bat, and divided it out to a nice round number. Started by cutting narrow strips of cheap masking tape, each one is 3mm wide. Wove an alternating pattern with the tape to create diamonds. What a pain that was. Just got to paint the diamonds blue, then peel it all off, to remask the diamonds, so I can paint the rest red. Not looking forward to that I can tell you! Started to bulk out the gaps between the ridges in the hand grip, so I can put a fake binding on it. Hope you are all enjoying this. Matt
  20. Thank you Thom. Quick question, does anyone know of anywhere in the sheffield area, I can go and buy clear decal paper from? Matt
  21. Thank you very much. To be honest I think it worked out more by luck than judgement. If I tried it again, it would turn out a right mess. Started the layout of diamonds around the bat.. Two bands masked off, and painted tamiya x-1 black. Here's a mock up of the decal I'm going to try and make. The text, according to various sources on the internet, is the correct font. Might need to make it slightly larger thought, would like to hear opinions on this one. If not larger then maybe fatter, if you get my drift. Hope you like my cack handed muddling. Matt
  22. Nowt like kids for a dose of wanton destruction, and sibling love. Got an update for you. Been on holiday this last week, so not got much done. Came back today, and as the party is only a week away, need to push on. Been experimenting with my printer, to make my own decal letters, but more on that in a future update. Tried my hand at wood graining tonight. My weapons of choice are... Tamiya flat earth. An old, cheap, flat paintbrush of unknown vintage and origin. A piece of white paper, and some water, for a pallette. Started off trying dry brushing, but didn't seem to be getting any paint coverage. Instead, brushed on a couple of strategic coats of paint, then used the brush, with very little paint on, but lots of water, to work the paint up and down, in what I think is a pretty convincing grain pattern. Didn't go for any knots, or un uniform grain, as most of the real bat's I've seen tend to use some of the best cuts of wood. Next up need to wait for it to dry, then give it another couple of clear coats, for protection and to prepare it for the decals. After that it's just masking up the diamond pattern, that goes around the bat, just above the grip, then simulating the grip tape around the handle. Might just use cheap masking tape for that. Please let me know what you think. Matt
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