Codger Posted March 31, 2016 Author Share Posted March 31, 2016 I'd forgotten just how much the top was cut down and how little glass area there is in the windshield, it almost looks like a chopped top opening on a Model A. The windshield frame and chrome looks great, better than the kit parts. Thanks Wayne. It's only a 5mm cut though. The 3/32 brass frame sort of closes it down visually too. Remember, the roof is cut 13mm at front edge and 6 at the rear. A straight edge from roof to cowl frame has only a slight downward taper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Wow that is a great looking frame. I need to dig back into your thread to see how you did the brass work pre plating. I may need to attempt on my Bugatti for the rear window frame to replace the plastic kit version. Gorgeous work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkennerley Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 The petrol tank; halves being joined and side seams being covered with .010" styrene sheet. The front / rear got filled with Bondo putty: Codger could I ask how you made the template for the petrol tank please, I tried using the tank as a template, cutting around the outside the cutting inside of that to make it fit inside the rim on the sides. Has kinda worked but not ideal - Perhaps there is an easier way - Also how did you replace the rivets? Thanks Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted March 31, 2016 Author Share Posted March 31, 2016 (edited) Wow that's way back in the thread Wayne! Glad you found something helpful. No magic, it's very easy. Get some file card or stiff paper and trace around the outside of each half to make a whole side. Try to get the holes in the tank sides accurately in the template. Cut out and keep trimming and fitting by trial and error. Doesn't take long. When perfect, transfer to .010 or .015 styrene sheet (shown) and trial fit that until right. Join tank halves and CA you the end plates on. Make the holes concentric with the tank's holes. Fill the front and rear seams with Bondo filler or any 2 part catalyzed filler. Be sure to bevel the dges of the plastic first. When the tank is joined, I used white glue to make the rivets. I just continued the spacing from those not sanded off. Don't obsess; very little of the tank will show as seen here: Forgot! If you make an inner fender panel like this (good idea) you won't see any of what you're working on! Edited March 31, 2016 by Codger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 I also took some paper and just pushed it into the recess and formed it around the inside perimeter with my fingernail to get the inside outline and then cut it out and then laid it back in to see how close or off I was and kept doing it until I got a good pattern. Then I transferred it to manila folder paper for a slightly stiffer template and used that to make the plastic card piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkennerley Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 Thanks Guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkennerley Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Codger could I ask how you went about making the y shaped piping on the engien side please Thanks Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 (edited) Sure, easy but very fiddly Wayne. That's .032 solder for the lines, ally tubing for the 'T' fitting and .005 ally for the mounting clips. It looks like the lines are threaded through the block fittings (bits of styrene tube with 00-90 bolt heads through and into block) but they're not. Each is an individual length of solder inserted into drilled holes in the sty tube. A touch of silver paint or Rub 'n Buff on the block fittings, the rest all natural. Two pictures worth 1000 words: If you do the driver side, don't forget the passenger side. Seen here just above the magneto drive shaft. These are all oil feed lines for the piston skirts below the crowns. Later P II's had them, not all early ones unless retro fitted. Restorers today sometimes shape them differently than OEM. My reference was OEM. These are 'high value' details because you DO see them in the car on the assembled engine. This is straight rod, same fittings and it starts behind the generator and ends behind the magneto. Edited April 3, 2016 by Codger 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 This thing is just mind-boggling. A seriously important Pocher build for anyone in the future. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 (edited) This thing is just mind-boggling. A seriously important Pocher build for anyone in the future. Roy. I have to agree with Roy, the weathering and extra details are epic. Definitely a very important point of reference for any one building pocher kits in the future Best regards Keith Edited April 3, 2016 by Mpfiend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_64 Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 I have to agree with Roy, the weathering and extra details are epic. Definitely a very important point of reference for any one building pocher kits in the future Best regards Keith I find this almost hard to believe. When I looked at that engine, my mind seemed unable to process that it was not the real thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 One of these days, Codger is going to tell us that it is the real thing and that because of this his build is a multi year project. It is indeed way too realistic. It simply cannot be a model... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 I've always been impressed with this engine, ever since I first saw it on the MMC unfinished Rolls gallery, even before I knew that this build was on the Britmodeller forum. It's certainly a great reminder for everyone just how good this build really is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 One of these days, Codger is going to tell us that it is the real thing and that because of this his build is a multi year project. It is indeed way too realistic. It simply cannot be a model... More under skin work... But first, you chaps are seriously kind and my keyboard is blushing. I'm happy to share, eager to learn and truly appreciative of your support. I take inspiration and ideas from all your works and comments. And Poul, it's nothing if you remember that my 1:1 project was 27 years to get 'right'....Simply - thanks. While preparing to work the door fit and latches, the thought occurred that I could get the body firmly in the correct position and have it survive the numerous on / off cycles needed. So another step back to get that right. It's important to remember how much the body seen here, is modified from stock Pocher, in overall view. The bottom of the body under the doors trimmed 5mm, the channeling over the frame of 7mm. The stock spacers under the firewall are removed lowering it 7mm and the rear bulkhead also trimmed 5mm and resting flat on the frame. Seen in the interior is the step in the floor which has been raised 7mm from stock. This is the kick-up in the floor where the rear portion of the frame kicks up. The rear seat goes atop that step. This is what allowed the cowl to fit flat on the firewall top. Earlier in the build I showed the new front body attachment bracket I made. This hole will take the 0-80 bolt and nut that secures the front half. I had 6 holes there before I 'found' the bracket hole beneath it. Thank the stars for Bondo. This is all in addition to the clamps under the body sides which attach it to the floor.: The new attachment point in the rear was established by making two posts of .250" styrene and epoxying them into the rear corners of the body. They protrude out of the body so they can overlap the frame and be bolted to it. They center the body rear nicely on the chassis too - just happen to be the right spacer dimension on both sides. Also note the cut roof with the stock Pocher ribs removed and the white, .060 styrene doubler on the bulkhead wall. Necessary even on a stock one.: Here is the attachment with T pin marking the location for the hole in the chassis. I like to use markings (on the yellow tape) to get even locations on both parts and both sides of the car. I heat the T pin to embed a mark in the chassis. Makes a nice starter hole for the drill bit, .054 in this case for 0-80 bolt: Also like the T pin because the 'handle' end makes a good line-up tool for your markings. This one is dead on. If you get a hole wrong, don't fret. Fill the hole with heated sprue and redrill: Finally here's the chassis hole drilled and tapped for 0-80 bolt. This all worked to give a square and solid body no matter how many times it's put on and off. NONE of this is necessary for a stock Pocher Rolls build because all the attachment points are designed in. But it wouldn't hurt to do a version of this for a solid build: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkennerley Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Thanks Codger, much appreciated - Wayne 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Taking notes. Will be a big help when I start my build. Thanks for the explanation and clear pics, Codger. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Quote Codger " This all worked to give a square and solid body no matter how many times it's put on and off. " In his build, Codger captured and implemented the true spirit of Rolls Royce engineering since 1904, not of Pocher... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 The T pin is a really good idea. Much easier than trying to balance the body and use a pin vise to start the hole. A very clever use of the melting method. All this gets covered by the fender correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 The T pin is a really good idea. Much easier than trying to balance the body and use a pin vise to start the hole. A very clever use of the melting method. All this gets covered by the fender correct? Well now it does. I made inner fender panels seen here. On the stock kit this is wide open and you see the sides of the rear seat, trunk and big gaps clear through to the other side. Especially with the stock ride height - way too much room around the tire gives a toy-like appearance. The slot at the rear is for the gas fill pipe to tank on this side. These are now a dull. textured black and simply disappear. They allow the wheel / tire to be visually prominent to the eye; a much better view. / Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzulscha Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 I am torn.I want you to work faster so that I can read more about this brilliant build but then you'd be done and there would no more to read. I demand a follow up project! Here is a lump of ore that I want you to turn into a ...er...um... something amazing! Sorry, got worked up there. Please, do continue. Q 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 I am torn. I want you to work faster so that I can read more about this brilliant build but then you'd be done and there would no more to read. I demand a follow up project! Here is a lump of ore that I want you to turn into a ...er...um... something amazing! Sorry, got worked up there. Please, do continue. Q Thank you my friend but you need not fear. The finish line is not yet in sight for this and I may not live long enough to start another! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) Codger, wishing you many many more years on this forum and many more builds ! One of the few good things abut living in these complicated times, is that we have great doctors, advanced medicine and great tools for modellers like us ! Looking at your well thought, top level craftsmanship and thorough approach in modelling, am sure you do the same with choosing your docs and fighting with the same perseverance and discipline and modeling grounds us ... it does it to me. if i were living in the US, i would choose this guy as my dentist: http://paulbudzik.com/profile.html Edited April 7, 2016 by sharknose156 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 Again, thanks for your kind comments Shark. Mrs Codger and I were blessed by 'Top Gun' doctors and have had really good things done to us to repel (or keep at bay) the the bad stuff. Now the job is to just stay that way. But building my 'forever' project has been an enormously pleasurable way of keeping the mind off ills. Even when spending tedious hours doing, undoing and redoing. Just like our health, I look forward to a 'good outcome' as the docs say, for it too. Big thanks for the Dr Budzik link. Having a peek at Large Scale Planes over the years, I have seen his name before. I will surely read the entire saved work and appreciate you sending it. Cheers C 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 You Sir, are a genius! I can't tell you how much I enjoy viewing that rust on the manifold! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 You Sir, are a genius! I can't tell you how much I enjoy viewing that rust on the manifold! And you Sir are a VERY Sick Man! ...don't let your Missus hear you say that.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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