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About Mpfiend

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  1. If you have some Tamiya extra thin or another similar "hot" extra thin glue, you might be able to soften the joint by running some of this around the two parts then separating them with a scapel or hobby knife. Regards Keith
  2. Mpfiend

    Paint Pens

    yes there are various tip sizes from very fine to enormous
  3. Hi Martin, Yes the kits do share a lot of parts, I'm not planning to start mine in the near future as I have several other projects in progress, but i will start early next year. with regards to paint pens I use POSCA paint pens, they are available;able in different nib sizes and give a good finish, however the paint can be a little fragile on some glossy surfaces so its best to seal it with a clear coat of some kind. I brought mine from Hobby craft. Hope this helps Regards Keith
  4. I haven't got any photos yet but here is a link to a really good in box review if you shop around you can get the kit for £119 rather than the RRP of £134.
  5. Hi Martin, Lacquer can be quite "hot" even the acrylic based ones, if you apply it too heavily it may attack the paint below, so always build it up gradually. The Halfords range of paint and lacquer can be quite aggressive (I use this on my 1/8 car builds as it goes further with the bigger can size!) I think all car builds benefit from a clear coat it helps tie in the finish and the decals, also it protects the decals, as over time they can lift and curl at the edges if not properly sealed in. You may be better off finishing this with a semi gloss finish rather than a full gloss as the race cars of this era did't always have a show room shine. Tamiya make a very good semi gloss which I use regularly (TS79) but again it needs to be built up in very light coats to prevent issues. Regards Keith
  6. Hi Martin, This looks really nice so far, did you test fit the doors to the body before you painted it? With regards to spraying lacquer over any decals, be very careful! You need to build up the lacquer in very thin "mist" coats to build up a barrier between the decals and the final "wet" coats, if you do not do this the decals will most likely just dissolve. It's best to do a test on a "mule" before working on the body of your model. Keep up the good work Keith.
  7. Very convincing weathering. Which company in Brighton did you use for the acrylic case and base? Regards Keith.
  8. Nice progress Martin, It's great to see this moving along. you have made some nice additions. Can you post a complete chassis photo of what you have so far please? I'm looking forward to seeing the body work come together. Regards Keith.
  9. Good to see some progress on this one Martin, it's really coming along, The "fibreglass effect on the fuel tank looks very effective so far. Looking forward to the next instalment. Regards Keith.
  10. Any progress Martin? I'm keen to see this progress Regards Keith.
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