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Codger

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About Codger

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  1. I have no doubt that you will make more of this than the sketchy kit would allow. Still can't figure the motor discrepancy. Found this engine size chart but I place little value in it. http://www.carnut.com/specs/engdim.html They took the measurements from bolt on ancillary parts; water pump pulley, oil pan, aircleaner. Should have been at the block machined surfaces of the bell housing, timing case, oil pan rail and china rail. The only possible comparison of the SBF and SBC is the width (again at the valve cover) but it shows both engines the same at 22". You can try to scale that but it indicates that they are closer in size than the kit presents.
  2. Great idea and likely the cause. Speedy recovery too !
  3. That seems like a scale difference in the two engines Matt. The deck height of a 289 is 8.2" and 9.0" for a small Chevy. The Chevy here looks huge compared. Even if the Camaro was 1/25. Looks like a 396/427, 9.8" deck block but the exhaust ports are correct for a SBC. Maybe try other kit mfgrs Chevy's for fit.
  4. If you can find a tiny test area, dip a cotton bud into a small amount of iso and rub the gloss. It should remove the Pledge. Don't do this if the black is acrylic too.... Remember - test first.
  5. You have the perfect screen name because that's a professional finish. Especially with mixed colors and urethane top. Now give up malformed Revellograms and build in 1/8 for a big canvas to display your talent.
  6. Dulling down those window rubbers for more realistic rubber will improve the body quickly.
  7. Wayne went down this path with his build as you will learn from his thread. I suspect most first-time Pocher guys do as well. Happy to just finish an out-of-box build but at some point you find some things that let your work down, causing disappointment. This is 'The Pocher Poison'. A case in point is the cockpit in the Benz - a focal point of the whole car. What Pocher gives you for upholstery and carpet is fine for shoe-making. Soon you become an expert on kid leather, wood veneer and mother-of-pearl. And you can go deeper down the well from there. Don't be discouraged - half the battle is knowing the dangers we point out. If you see things you want to try, it's a perfect chance to expand your skill set into advanced building. However a perfectly nice model can be built without advanced stuff if you're very neat and use solid construction techniques. Those wire wheels are beautiful and give a huge shot of confidence. Just making sure that everything is square and plumb is a victory and a good path to a nice looking build.
  8. You have a sensible outlook. The same one I started out with. Then look what happened...
  9. A bit more incentive: Same model by David Cox. I forgot to mention that nearly all the chrome trim here is scratchbuilt by Cox and is brass with real chrome plating. So don't expect the molded in plastic to look quite this 'real'. If you are unable to duplicate it but must have it, you can contact David who can fabricate it for you. He is very helpful to Pocher builders. For that matter, I'm sure Jo could too. David scratchbuilt my running board strips and landau irons seen here:
  10. What Jo recommends is golden. He has lots of experience with Pochers and scratchbuilding - and the need for scratchbuilding on Pochers ! In addition I'd add the following from my experience. ----------------------------------------------------------- Make plenty of working and painting space before starting. Organize parts so they are not jumbled together in bags or boxes. Triple the amount and type of tools you think you'll need. FORGET the urge to open the box and paint and glue things together. This is not Monogram. Very carefully compare left/right parts (hoods, doors, fenders and even body symmetry) before doing anything. Example; each of my 4 Rolls fenders had different contours. Warping on a 4 decade old kit is common as is brittle plastic. Allow adequate gaps when in mock-up stage for opening panels for paint build. At least .005 is adequate. Keep testing. Upholstery will add dimensional thickness so allow for that. Decide early if aftermarket parts will be used because some areas will need to be modified to accept them. If unable to make or obtain a tap, the technique of 'heat sinking' screws (as described by Koo) into plastic works well when you master it. The preferred body fillers are Bondo or Milliput - you will need them for paint perfection. Use 00-90 and 00-80 bolts, studs and nuts in place of screws as often as possible. Start a thread and ask questions here. There are expert builders of these always willing to help.
  11. Thank you both S/B and Dan. Did NOT know the range of paint types of Duplicolor. Over here they are widely know for auto touch up sprays and use auto manufacturer codes and paint names. Mine was 'Dark Toreador Red', a Ford color. What ever was used, Dan sure knows how to lay it down.
  12. It surely is and you can do it justice. Here's a little incentive by David Cox:
  13. Your English speaks as well as your building - which is excellent. Yes a few surprises and thanks for sharing. No primer really surprises as I thought lacquers such as Duplicolor and Alclad required it for good adhesion on metal. I am impressed how nicely your colors lie 'flat' or tightly onto the surface which allows very fine detail. Thin finishes that cover well are excellent for that. Also very smart is acetone for prep but rough on your lungs. Leaves no residue on surfaces, dries instantly. Also a surprise is your choice of Duplicolor - the same as my Rolls upper body and fenders! I did not use it for the color sweep as I did not find a Duplicolor cream that matched my idea. That gray suits your chassis perfectly. A very informative discussion and thank you. C
  14. Superb. Dan, might I ask what type and brands of primers and paint you use? The finishes applied are just elegant.
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