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Codger

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About Codger

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  1. Both Peter's and Ron's are instructional builds and Ron's should be revived and completed here. My scruffy example's from 1989 and I don't remember but I might have lopped a coil off the front and rear shock units...a bad-boy habit I continued on many builds...
  2. Staggering and brilliant work Pascal. I hope you visit again before two months because I have two questions: I'd guess by color that your filler of choice for the zamac is J-B Weld. ? What is your tool(s) of choice for cutting out slots and holes in the zamac body? Huge wonderful project... EDIT: I see you answered my guess about the filler earlier on - thanks again for that.
  3. You certainly are and it certainly does....
  4. I have been told that I have 'windows' in my mind - generally called holes in the head. Especially by those that know me. You however are way too kind....
  5. Barry, to this end, I just posted a detailed explanation in my pinned thread of how I did this and I hope it benefits you. C
  6. Back to work... My original mission here was to recreate my build thread of 2014 in the hopes that it would be helpful and inspiring to prospective Pocher classic builders. Having done that, I added great builds by David Cox, far more prolific and instructional than my work. But in attempting to help Yorkshire Barry in his thread of a Rolls Ambassador build, I realized there might have been a gap in my build thread which requires more explanation to be helpful. It involves the importance and steps involved in getting the Rolls hood panels to function as the real car, rather than need to be removed to display engine work. Rather than clutter Barry's thread, I include it here which also keeps this pinned reference work (Thank You Admins!) in a central location. To that end, I removed the glass case and took new detailed photos which I now hope will be of more help. There are certain 'laws' I found as I got to this stage. You truly want to make the hood panels the last coachwork you perform on your build. The body and all its various modifications and relocations must be in its final form and location. Up to now you should have decided whether to keep things totally Pocher stock or get the side louvers aligned with the cowl's. If you've lowered the body on the chassis, you've lowered the rear hood edges down to level or near level. This will change the three edges of the hood with relation to the grille shell, cowl front edge and fender top apron on the chassis. Material will have to be added or removed to get those edges flush with their mates. It is vital to begin with a square and plumb grille shell in the horizontal and vertical directions. It must be 90 degrees to the chassis top rail. It is vital to remember that Ellie Thornton's mascot MUST be rotated 90 degrees to the side to let the completed hood rise without interference as seen here. Pocher mercifully allows for this as the mascot screws onto the radiator filler: The key to getting the top panels to fold is the central hinge. I removed the crap Pocher pin and substituted a .032" music wire pin the full length. But the secret weapon is pin pivots at each end. Seen here is a fabricated tube through which the pin is inserted at the back: A poor photo but the diagram is clear. A 0-80 brass bolt has the hex removed and in place a brass tube with ID just large enough to fit the .032" pin, is soldered atop the bolt. A location on the cowl is selected, hole drilled in the cowl and the bolt inserted and nut applied from below. This allows the height of the pivot to adjust to get the rear of the hood even with the cowl height. I chromed mine but a dab of paint would suffice: The other magic happens at the front; the secret is to bend the wire pin 90 degrees so that you insert the pin at the rear and drop it down in the front. There you must drill the plastic radiator to just fit a bit of ally or brass tube which you (when height has been determined) epoxy in place. Now with the central hinge joined to the two top panels, either half can pivot upwards: A word about joining the hinge to the panels; don't rely on glue or epoxy alone to hold the panels to the hinges. I used 00-90 bolts to through-bolt the hinge flange to the hood panels AND epoxy as well. I rounded the heads off and a dab of Molotow made them chrome-like. The real cars had chrome buttons acting as contact surfaces so hood paint would not be scratched when folded open. Also of major importance are the side panel hinges which hold them to the top panels and fold onto themselves. I strongly discourage using the Pocher tiny hinges and their 'heat melt' attachment idea. (The same horrid idea they use on the cabin door hinges; I go into that in better detail in the thread using new door posts and changing the hinge orientation. This allow easy removal and replacement for painting.It's in there.) Using two or even three of those per side allows the panel edges to warp- indeed many start out that way. It is vital to get straight edges on the mating panels. I didn't have any but I know I begged both Cox and Marvin for a pair of them and one of those blessed souls came through. They are smaller than the central hinge and that's OK. Although I couldn't through-bolt them like the top, I made stiffeners from styrene, then epoxied them in place with tiny brass rod embedded but not protruding through. I always prefer some mechanical connection and not just a glue joint: I used a stick to show how much outward movement the panels gain by this work and how sturdy they are: Because of the styrene stiffeners I used at the hing flanges, the panels do not quite fold flush on themselves as the prototype. But you can see that they stay comfortably in place and allow full display of your hard detail work in the engine compartment. Worth all this effort? I thought so and am glad I did it. Your ideas may vary. But I'd be glad to answer any questions.
  7. FOUND IT ! Called UC-3. Many that Jo and to others that supplied answers in my 'hardware' thread !
  8. Then this might be close to correct. The wall thickness is the only question but buying some and trying seems worthwhile. Is your kit w'screen usable? And do you have a source to get parts chromed?? https://www.modelbouwshopnederland.nl/a-43702769/u-profiel-3x-33-cm/ae7747-10-messing-u-profiel-2-5-x-2-5mm-3-x-33-cm/#description
  9. The difficulty I see here is that these are all U-channel brass, not square channel. These have a wider base leg and two equal, smaller vertical legs. The channel Cox and I had use has all three sides equal in dimension. In the metric system you would need a base of 2.38mm assuming the wall thickness is the same as what we've had at .014". Now this site does have 2.5mm base channel but only 1.5mm high - it would not look scale on the model. Brass is most desirable for the ability to chrome plate it. Nothing looks more real than real chrome. Plastic square channel may exist but then the problem to either, foil it, paint it or possibly vacuum plate it - like kit chrome bits. But what you choose for actual glass is part of the equation.
  10. Louie You Da Man; just what was needed. Thanks for all who cared enough to write. / C
  11. I briefly went through the same planning process you are considering now. But as a practical matter, I abandoned the idea. Practical because unless your car goes to a museum to be seen by hundreds of people, there is little satisfaction to be gained by all the effort. I highly recommend you forget making the body removable - it becomes a heavy, awkward thing and handling will always cause damage - from fingerprints to broken parts. I am really comfortable that my car sits under glass, safe from atmosphere and damage. I occasionally don gloves, remove the case and reposition hood or doors open or closed and re-cover immediately. I am mystified by those that feel the need to turn lights on/off, press levers, controls and switches of such delicate construction and poor leverages. The brakes may be fun to construct but are a fool's errand to operate. I just enjoy that it is a thing of beauty to see. Remember, if it were real, no one is able to invert it to see how pretty the bottom is. My Cobra is as pretty below as above but I enjoyed that only when working on it or photographing it. I settled on photography as the very best solution for enjoying and sharing the work put into the detailing. Photo the major assemblies before they are concealed by body and other components. Keep digital files and folders. My car and all its detailed areas have been seen by hundreds of people, here, in publications and on the web - far more than anyone standing next to it in my dining room. It is even (I hope) proving useful as a tool to help builders like you.
  12. So far the previous links have been unsuccessful but appreciated. Thanks very much Louie.
  13. Barry I am glad you took to heart my advice about converting as much as possible to bolts and studs rather than screws. Very durable and easily removable and replaceable. Very nice work especially to the refinement of my side body clamps to make them adjustable. It's fine that you do not want the body as low as mine but do mind lowering the suspension to the chassis by shimming or you will have a large fender to tire gap. About the hood panels; again I say make no attempt to rectify any portions of them until the body and fender units are finalized. You can already see that the cowl / hood louvers are misaligned. You may have to let in or remove styrene sheet to certain edges to get them level - a job well-worth the effort to get the prototype look. And here's another judgement you must make. If you assemble the upper panels in stock form you will have to lift the entire unit off to display the engine. Installing a .032" music wire into the top hinge with a pivot at each end will allow you to open the halves in the prototype manner.
  14. I should warn you Poul, K & S has stopped making the 3/32" brass square channel which David and I used for our w'screens and side windows. I understand David is trying 1/8" which is still available but the 3/32" was perfect with the .040 Lexan I used for the clear glass.
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