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larchiefeng

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  1. Chas was a very good friend of mine and I feel bad for taking so long to respond to this post but, he was not the only long term friend I lost within a week of each other. My other friend was a life long friend of 59 years and between Chas and Jerry it hit me pretty hard. I had received an email from Chas about a week before he passed basically telling me that he was terminal but, he thought that he still had about 6 months left. Upon receiving that email, I responded telling him all the things that, he meant to me and how much I valued our friendship over the years. It was important to me to tell him while, I had the chance, just how much our friendship meant to me. His response was very heartfelt and moving and I'm eternally grateful that I was able to convey my thoughts to him before it was too late. Sadly, it was something that I was unable to do with my boyhood friend. In life it's better not to wait too long to say what is important because one day it may be too late. I'm just glad that I didn't wait to tell Chas. RIP Codger, my friend!
  2. I’ve seen the Leno Alfa recreation on YouTube and on Leno’s Garage on TV. I know that, the company that, built it has done others and they are highly regarded. I would probably go with the cap that you have in the picture because it’s probably the more accurate one of the bunch. That car is as accurate as it gets and they get a lot of money for them. They are so accurate that they are hard to tell from the original. The other thing that, we have talked about in the past is that all of those pre-war Alfa’s we’re hand built in a garages that were somewhat primitive by the standards of the day and the tendency was to use whatever was on hand. So, I think that a plain hub cap, one with just the Alfa script or like you have in the picture would all be perfectly accurate depending on the month, year or mood of the mechanic on the day that the wheels were put on the car. Keep in mind that this probably applies more to the Monzas and not so much the coupe. The coupe is more upscale and geared to a different client with more bespoke requirements. Having said that, I’m going for the more bespoke script for your wheel caps.
  3. I just looked at the knockoff wheel nuts that Marvin has on MMC and all I see for the script is just Alfa. Are you sure Alfa Romeo is correct or were there multiple types knock offs on the 1930’s Alfa’s
  4. I understand. I think that, in my case I would probably only need the printed parts, decals and possibly the PE depending on how extensive it is. I’m already working with the Autograph transkit as well as two other transkits. And, given the amount of rod, tubing and threaded stock along with all the different sizes of bolts and nuts that I already have, I probably don’t need any of those items. When you get closer to knowing where you are going with this, just PM me and we can talk. Thanks, Wayne
  5. I like this in 1/8 scale to go as a stand alone next to my F40. What kind of cost are we thinking about?
  6. Looks like you have quite the Ferrari engine block stockpile going there. I could sure use one to remake the bottom end of my engine before I get too much farther along on the build with the autograph transkit. It’s funny, as detailed as the transkit is, I’m still not satisfied and find myself making changes over and above. I admire your patience with this engine project and I know that you have invested way more time in it than you probably had in mind when you started. What is the end game here? Are you going to just do a stand alone model or are you planning on putting it in a Pocher F40? I think that I remember earlier on that you said that the new engine would probably not fit in the model due to Pocher having to make concessions to make an engine fit inside the model. I know that as I look at my partially built engine sitting inside the frame and I’m still working on the turbo pipes, I can see that I’m going to have to pretty much get a kinda bare block mounted in the frame and then have to add the exhaust manifolds and turbos when the engine is in place. I don’t see how I can maneuver an assembled engine in and through the frame. Anyway, that is what I see with just the regular kit and transkit. Well, maybe the transkit that has been modified to an LM version exhaust etc. It’s funny how a $1800 transkit isn’t enough detail to add Well, keep up the great work! This engine is going to be something else! You are taking details to the nth degree, great job!!
  7. Amen to that! And, building a Pocher seems like it takes a lifetime to build. You are correct, it is the Simon Moore 3 volume set for the Alfa 2300 series and the only drawings that I could find are on the inside of the front and back of the hardcover flaps. The book is great for information regarding every Alfa 2300 and it’s history but very short on technical information. Technical information being the reason why I purchased the books and I was very disappointed.
  8. I have a three volume set on Alfa 2300 but, I’m not sure that it has a complete engine breakdown. As I recall the set was about $250 and it pretty much just has the history of every Alfa 2300. I will pull them out tomorrow and see if there’s any specific engine drawings. I remember that when I was researching the Alfa Monza I saw that the engine was painted no single specific color. I asked Dave Cox about that and he told me that when it came to things like engine and components paint, the mechanics just grabbed a bucket of paint that had the most in it and brush painted the engine that color. You have to remember that this was 1930’s Italy and they just used what they had. The color of the engine wasn’t as important as making it run!
  9. Poul, I was just catching up on some of my reading on the forum and saw the section about your LED’s. I can’t tell which type of LED’s that you are using here but, back when I was building the Mercedes I wound up using SMD LEDs. They come in different sizes like regular, nano and pico and they also have different color rendering like cool and soft white. I used the pico to light up the dash lights, tail lights and marker running lights. I used the nano for the headlights. They worked great and were very easy glue down. Your build is looking great! I’m starting to go back and catch up with my Pocher building friends in hopes of getting some motivation to jump start my stalled build.
  10. I’m glad that it helped. I went down the LED rabbit hole back when I was building my Pocher Mercedes and I was amazed at how small the pico and nano SMD LED’s were. The only thing that I would do is get the physical measurements on the LED and the space that you plan on installing it to make sure that it’s going to work. I suppose that if you have some dead space inside you can always enclose the light so it only shows in the lens. I also bought a 2 or 3 light controller with a remote control to be able to turn the lights on and off remotely. I don’t know if I saw that on the website when I looked the other day but I still have it in the box and I can take a picture of it and post it here if you are interested. Good luck
  11. Model train layouts have blinking lights for train crossings and signs on the layout. Try evandesigns.com , he has a lot of specialty LED’s and controllers. I bought all my pico, nano and micro SMD LED’s from him and I see that he has a lot more stuff now.
  12. The best source of information and help on building this kit is going to be Codger and his post that he shared the link to. You will probably not take it to the level he did with some of the body mods but it’s the quintessential Rolls Royce Sedanca build anywhere in this forum!
  13. Hey Rich, when you are ready for an airbrush and want some Zero Paint you can get it from Hobby World USA. This is where I have purchased all my Zero paint.
  14. The seats look great! That’s a very nice job on the pleats and piping around the edges. When I did my interior I actually had to build a new floor. The K74 and my K91 are very different in the way the interiors are done. The seat in the K91 was molded in to the floor and had to be cut out to detail. Also there wasn’t much floor left after that. So my problem was to find suitable material for the carpet. I found the same type of flocked looking carpet at a dollhouse supplier. They have any color that you would want. It comes on sheets with an adhesive backing. The sheets are about 12” x 8” or 10” and are fairly inexpensive. I might have mentioned where I got it in my thread.
  15. If I were you, I would add the additional weight of the doors, engine and other various parts that will be on the assembled car before cutting the springs or going with something too low. It might look good mocked up but completely different after assembly and again over time. We all know how heavy and assembled Pocher model can be, especially the die cast ones and, the springs are the things that tend to start collapsing over time. This is why they gave us the little pylons to put under the frame on the Pocher classics. Just something to think about before making any big changes.
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