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About larchiefeng

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  1. larchiefeng

    McLaren F1 GTR: Aoshima vs Fujimi

    Thanks for the info but, it’s a little late now for making any changes. I started adding the decals to the body yesterday. It’s going to be fine though. Like I said earlier, I’m just having some fun with this one and I’m not overly concerned accuracy. This is just something to get back into the swing of things after taking the summer off of my Pocher F-40 build with the Autograph transkit. There’s something like 3000 parts on that build and working on a 1/24 scale smaller kit is good for me to get used to working with the small details and PE throughout the transkit. I’ll post a couple pictures of the GTR body after I get finished with the decals if you guys are interested.
  2. larchiefeng

    McLaren F1 GTR: Aoshima vs Fujimi

    I’m working on the Fujimi kit now and it’s the Gulf Oul version. I’m not really paying too much attention to the details because it’s mostly just a curbside kit. The real challenge is the paint job with the blue over black and the orange center stripe. And, of course the orange stripes to break between the upper and lower colors. It’s just something to get me back on the bench and in the swing of things before I go back to the pocher F40 and transkit. It’s a fun diversion and another friend is also building the Aoshima kit at the same time so we’re comparing notes as we go
  3. larchiefeng

    MFH - 1:20 Eagle T1G 1968

    The detail work on this model is pretty incredible! I remember early on when Paul was drilling all those holes and adding all the rivets; it was a little mind boggling. There must be a few hundred added rivets to the body and metal tub and plates; they really add another level of realism to the build. That, along with the clean engine work is going to make it a classic build. Working with white metal and resin are not the easiest materials turn into art but, it looks like you and Ron are maintaining the standard set and started by Paul. You guys are really doing it justice with your craftsmanship and superb painting skills.
  4. Messerschmitt KR200
  5. Judging by the work on the emblem, it appears that you have a handle on the CAD software. It's just a matter of getting the proper mills that small that will stand up to the process especially if they're 1mm in diameter. I can just look a t 1mm drill bit the wrong way and it breaks. Admittedly, they are on the cheap side but, even expensive 1mm bits are going to break eventually. My biggest problem is the CAD software and I think that's what's holding me back from finishing my CNC and using my 3D printer more. So, for now I will just have to live vicariously through you and your CNC, lol
  6. larchiefeng

    MFH - 1:20 Eagle T1G 1968

    Codger, It's a real shame that you can't bring your considerable talent to bear on this build as well. I know that Sam will do a great job and we all know that Ron is a master with oils and can create realism like no one else. Just go back and look at the great work he did with the Pocher Ducati he built and posted here on the forum. Keep up the good work guys, we're all behind you on this project!
  7. larchiefeng

    MFH - 1:20 Eagle T1G 1968

    You guys are doing great work to complete this for Paul!
  8. larchiefeng

    Pocher Aventador Build (Blue Roadster)

    Thanks Darin, I do plan on getting back to the F-40 at some point fairly soon. It's funny, when it's cold you tell yourself; I can't wait for it to warm up so I can paint or do things on the big body out in the garage. But, when summer comes, you find all kinds of excuses to do other projects outside around the house and yard that can't be done in the winter when it snows. It's all very seasonal when you live at altitude in the mountains and you really do have four seasons. Even though I live in California, I live up above 6000' and I'm either getting ready for winter in the summer and fall or repairing all the damage from winter and so on. I had pretty much resigned myself to the fact that I was truly retired and had settled into a routine which allowed plenty of free time to do the house projects and modeling as well. Then, in June, I was offered an opportunity to go back to work as a consultant on my own terms and I decided that, it was too good of an opportunity to pass up. But, it really messed up my little routine and it took a few weeks to catch up on all the stuff I had been doing in seven days and compress all that into two days. It was quite an adjustment and had me wondering how I did it all five years ago when I worked more than full time 50 hours a week! All of a sudden, I'm struggling with 35-40 hours a week but, now I'm getting into a new routine or, a new normal as it were and working 25-30 hours a week. I think, once I get things put away and ready for winter around here, I'll be ready get reacquainted with the Ferrari. In the meantime, I'm relying on you and a few others to inspire me to sit down and join in the fray!!
  9. Looks like you have a good handle on things. I have a number of parts for mine but, it was more geared toward woodworking and is a larger set up if built. Using the Proxon milling machine is a good start because you have a good head and sliding table to work with and add the motors on. It's pretty handy that you can just plug a CNC shield on top of an Arduino board and then have your control module. I see that you mention a fourth axis; are you planning on adding the tilt to the head so that you can mill at an angle? Will the CNC shield support a fourth axis or is it just a 3 axis shield? All good stuff here and just goes to show that when you start building models at this level how you start to branch out into other disciplines to achieve another level of realism. I have an old Unimat lathe that can be set up as a mill with an attachment but, I can't see doing anything like this with that machine. It would require too much modification and if I ever get to that point I would have to sell the Unimat and get something like this. However, for now, I will just enjoy watching you convert yours and enjoy the results
  10. larchiefeng

    Pocher Aventador Build (Blue Roadster)

    I agree with the rest, I also need to find some motivation to go back and continue with the F40. Like you, life seems to have gotten in the way of my build too. I went back to work after being off for almost six years and it's surprising how many things pile when you go back to work. I'm hoping to get back on it when the season changes and watching you will help get me back into the game too. So, yes, we want to see you continue on!
  11. Looks interesting, I started to build a slightly larger CNC machine and I have most of the parts to build it but my issue is the software to control it and more importantly developing the necessary skills to be able to do the 3D CAD drawing. I need to get the ideas from my head to the program and then to the machine. There's the machine control software and on a 3D printer there's the slicer software that converts the CAD drawing that plots each move of the printer head on the printer or a cutter head of the CNC machine. So, I will be following with even more interest than just this fabulous build. Good to have you back. I'm hoping to get back on the bench myself when the weather gets colder.
  12. I'm happy that it went off without a hitch! Now on to more fun stuff.
  13. larchiefeng

    Aoshima GTRRRRRR35

    I would maybe do a light wet sand with a 600 grit sandpaper and then a couple of light mist coats right out of the can. I would turn the model upside down and shoot the lower section, wheel well openings and anywhere there is crevice or hard to get spot. Then after letting dry I'd flip it over and shoot the top half. If you spend too much time trying to sand it now you will burn through the color and be down to the primer or bare plastic. The next coat of paint will start to fill in the low spots of the orange peel and give you something to sand to smooth out. The whole point of using a clear coat is to apply a good smooth layer of color is as few coats as possible; preferably one or two. Then you should probably get 2-3 coats of clear on it before sanding anything other than a spec of dust off. If you start sanding the clear too soon then you will go right through into the color and, then you're starting over.
  14. I've never used Aizu tape and to tell the truth I've never heard of it. Usually I don't have any problems when I mask plastic so, it hasn't been a problem for me. Where my concern comes from is the fact that these are long brass panels and I had some masking tape issues on my repainted Pocher Ferrari die cast body. The paint chipped too easy and some came off with the tape. The regular plastic model paint didn't etch into the metal as well as I thought it would. In retrospect I probably should have gone with standard automotive paint. After I was sure the paint had set up and was hard enough I used soap and water to soften up the tape and adhesive and I was able to get it off easier without lifting the paint. I'm not saying that this is what you should do but it's just another option.
  15. Be very careful with the tape when you remove it and don't leave it on very long. The quicker that you get the second coat on and the tape off the better. I'm concerned about pulling up the cream color. Otherwise it's good to see you back on this!