rjfk2002

I highly recommend the Paul Koo DVDs. It has 1000s of photos and lots of instructions. The Pocher kits are beautiful models but have some really wonky engineering. You can assemble things only to realize it blocks attachment points for further assemblies. In other cases modifications need to made because the factory screw points are in the wrong place. Paul’s DVD helps to identify the pitfalls ahead of time. He also has detailed kit packing lists so you can check the kit contents. He sells some spare parts as does Peter at Pocher Parts if you are missing bits. Paul sells through eBay or you can buy direct via email

It depends on the kit. The Countach and MP4/4 were Kyosho but the E-type and GT40 were not. Many of the part works were manufactured by IXO

That is a really impressive start to what will be an amazing project. Looking forward to following along

Model Motor Cars sells scale bolts (under the Scale Hardware brand) in the US and Knupfer sells micro hardware in Germany. I have had great luck with both. Ted’s Modeling Marketplace has plenty of hoses and braided lines (Pro Tech) as does Tamiya. For fittings I have gotten things from RB Motion. There may be some 1:8 fittings on Shapeways if you search but I could be mistaken. Mike Lane Mods has 1:8 tie wraps in plastic and metal (for the BTTF Delorean). Tremonia on eBay has PE hose clips and seat belts. Hope this helps and really looking forward to your build

Paul will list it on eBay or you can purchase directly from him. He sent out an email to his customers last night. I just ordered the set myself!

There is someone on the F1M forums that is 3D printing new tires. I ordered two sets recently from him and they are in transit. I think MFH made some rubber replacement tires but they are out of print.

Paul Koo sells a tap set for the other modern Pocher kits (both Lambos and the Ducati bikes). You can see if those sizes work for this kit. I think he has a 1.6, 2.3 and 2.6. He sells through eBay. Marvin at Model Motorcars also sells taps.

Thanks that is really helpful. The tube is a great idea! I have tried with the wire in place and ended singeing it a bit…

Truly stunning work! Do you have tips on how to work with the electrical connectors? I have had a devil of a time getting the metal/resin connector, heat sink rubber boot and wires to hold together. Are you drilling the connector to feed the wire in? And how are you shrinking the tube? Rich

Yes it is complete! I just need to stick magnets on the wheel caps. I can take some photos later and post

Fantastic work Ron! Thank you for taking us on this journey. I know our friend Mr C enjoyed this one immensely

Really cool stuff Ron. Thanks for all the WIP pics!

Staggering work Ron! How do you shape the aluminum strip for the mounting plate?

I've spent the past few weeks fiddling with the rear body fit. I have filed paint off the joining surface and have gotten the fit correct on the driver side. The passenger side is giving me a lot of grief. The alignment between the door and rear panel is way off. The panel with the gas cap is not screwed in and just resting there which explains that area. But the door panel is way off I do not think I'm getting interference from the window frame (the area where the black pain was worn off) but I'm getting it from somewhere else... As @Dinky suggested I did cut down the length of the air box intakes as they did interfere with the body. That helped to fix the driver side. There is something else at play here

Oh boy, really excited to see this one come together Ron! Another masterpiece in the making

Hornby CS is a favorite in my mail history now! My kit must have gone through some wild temp swings as there a few warped parts here and there. Also some of the metal parts were miscast but fixable. @Dinky had quite a few missing and malformed parts. Quality control was lacking with the Huracan. Same story with the design - some areas they seem to have failed to account for paint thickness. It’s a shame as the Aventador was a great kit. No design issues, part issues, everything fit together nicely. The Huracan has many more details than the Aventador and should be a better kit but they just whiffed on the QC… work continues on the rear body work and doors. Stay tuned

Tail Lights Installing the tail lights was quite an ordeal. The lens do not sit properly due to the paint on the body. In the Paul Koo DVD he suggests scrapping off the body paint. I was worried about compromising the paint so I instead sanded the edges to get the lens to fit. It was a lot of sanding, testing, sanding to get it exact. I didn't want to take too much mateiral off so I errered on the side of trial and error... In the end it fit perfectly. The black plastic border around the grill was also an issue. It was badly warped out of the box. Fortunately Hornby was able to supply me with a new part. It can't really be seen in the picture but I put foil behind the lights to give it a reflective quality

Oh wow this is going to be impressive. MWT has some pics on their website/Facebook but was not sure if we would see one in the wild

Thanks gents. I am glad to be back it again. I have started to “permanently” attach assemblies - attached tie rides, stabilizer arms, paint screws, etc - that could not be done before when I needed to adjust the suspension. Fortunately I took good notes along the way (marked up the instruction manual) so I wouldn’t forget some of these details. It does involve a bit of disassembly though.

Happy New Year! I have been slowly tinkering on the build and think I have finally rounded the corner on the ride height! For the front shocks I added a 2mm plug to shrink the shock length and used a softer spring as suggested by @Fozz. I removed the paint from the piston and hollowed out the bore on the shock end to improve movement. Assemblying and disassemblying the front shocks was cumbersome as they are relatively small and the spring is strong. I used a handheld vise to compress the shock so I can add/remove the pin but there is not a lot of room between spring coils. In the rear I also used a 2mm plug to shrink the length. Unlike the front, the rear shocks are very easy to disassemble. This was a relief as my experience with the front shocks was annoying to say the least, so I dragged my feet on the rear... The doors are wrapped in the towel and are there to better approximate the final weight of the model. Next up I will work on the rear body to get that ready for final attachment. I need to do a little filing on the passenger side to improve the fit

Incredible work as usual Ron. That bin is a cool touch

That’s a really clever way to show the model… I am sad to see this approaching the finish line! It has been a really fun build to follow

After a bit of a hiatus I am back at the bench. I will update this post later with some pics showing where I am currently am on the beast

Chas was a tremendous builder and teacher. His rolls thread was epic not only in the end result but also in the journey. He was quick to chime in on other threads with words of encouragement and helpful suggestions. His emoji/gif was excellent too. We will all miss you my friend. My heart goes out to your family.

@fozz did you end up using the softer springs for your front shocks? I thought in a previous post you mentioned going back to the stock springs as the new ones were too soft. Perhaps I am confusing the front and rear shocks?