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larchiefeng

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Everything posted by larchiefeng

  1. I’ve seen the Leno Alfa recreation on YouTube and on Leno’s Garage on TV. I know that, the company that, built it has done others and they are highly regarded. I would probably go with the cap that you have in the picture because it’s probably the more accurate one of the bunch. That car is as accurate as it gets and they get a lot of money for them. They are so accurate that they are hard to tell from the original. The other thing that, we have talked about in the past is that all of those pre-war Alfa’s we’re hand built in a garages that were somewhat primitive by the standards of the day and the tendency was to use whatever was on hand. So, I think that a plain hub cap, one with just the Alfa script or like you have in the picture would all be perfectly accurate depending on the month, year or mood of the mechanic on the day that the wheels were put on the car. Keep in mind that this probably applies more to the Monzas and not so much the coupe. The coupe is more upscale and geared to a different client with more bespoke requirements. Having said that, I’m going for the more bespoke script for your wheel caps.
  2. I just looked at the knockoff wheel nuts that Marvin has on MMC and all I see for the script is just Alfa. Are you sure Alfa Romeo is correct or were there multiple types knock offs on the 1930’s Alfa’s
  3. I understand. I think that, in my case I would probably only need the printed parts, decals and possibly the PE depending on how extensive it is. I’m already working with the Autograph transkit as well as two other transkits. And, given the amount of rod, tubing and threaded stock along with all the different sizes of bolts and nuts that I already have, I probably don’t need any of those items. When you get closer to knowing where you are going with this, just PM me and we can talk. Thanks, Wayne
  4. I like this in 1/8 scale to go as a stand alone next to my F40. What kind of cost are we thinking about?
  5. Looks like you have quite the Ferrari engine block stockpile going there. I could sure use one to remake the bottom end of my engine before I get too much farther along on the build with the autograph transkit. It’s funny, as detailed as the transkit is, I’m still not satisfied and find myself making changes over and above. I admire your patience with this engine project and I know that you have invested way more time in it than you probably had in mind when you started. What is the end game here? Are you going to just do a stand alone model or are you planning on putting it in a Pocher F40? I think that I remember earlier on that you said that the new engine would probably not fit in the model due to Pocher having to make concessions to make an engine fit inside the model. I know that as I look at my partially built engine sitting inside the frame and I’m still working on the turbo pipes, I can see that I’m going to have to pretty much get a kinda bare block mounted in the frame and then have to add the exhaust manifolds and turbos when the engine is in place. I don’t see how I can maneuver an assembled engine in and through the frame. Anyway, that is what I see with just the regular kit and transkit. Well, maybe the transkit that has been modified to an LM version exhaust etc. It’s funny how a $1800 transkit isn’t enough detail to add Well, keep up the great work! This engine is going to be something else! You are taking details to the nth degree, great job!!
  6. Amen to that! And, building a Pocher seems like it takes a lifetime to build. You are correct, it is the Simon Moore 3 volume set for the Alfa 2300 series and the only drawings that I could find are on the inside of the front and back of the hardcover flaps. The book is great for information regarding every Alfa 2300 and it’s history but very short on technical information. Technical information being the reason why I purchased the books and I was very disappointed.
  7. I have a three volume set on Alfa 2300 but, I’m not sure that it has a complete engine breakdown. As I recall the set was about $250 and it pretty much just has the history of every Alfa 2300. I will pull them out tomorrow and see if there’s any specific engine drawings. I remember that when I was researching the Alfa Monza I saw that the engine was painted no single specific color. I asked Dave Cox about that and he told me that when it came to things like engine and components paint, the mechanics just grabbed a bucket of paint that had the most in it and brush painted the engine that color. You have to remember that this was 1930’s Italy and they just used what they had. The color of the engine wasn’t as important as making it run!
  8. Poul, I was just catching up on some of my reading on the forum and saw the section about your LED’s. I can’t tell which type of LED’s that you are using here but, back when I was building the Mercedes I wound up using SMD LEDs. They come in different sizes like regular, nano and pico and they also have different color rendering like cool and soft white. I used the pico to light up the dash lights, tail lights and marker running lights. I used the nano for the headlights. They worked great and were very easy glue down. Your build is looking great! I’m starting to go back and catch up with my Pocher building friends in hopes of getting some motivation to jump start my stalled build.
  9. I’m glad that it helped. I went down the LED rabbit hole back when I was building my Pocher Mercedes and I was amazed at how small the pico and nano SMD LED’s were. The only thing that I would do is get the physical measurements on the LED and the space that you plan on installing it to make sure that it’s going to work. I suppose that if you have some dead space inside you can always enclose the light so it only shows in the lens. I also bought a 2 or 3 light controller with a remote control to be able to turn the lights on and off remotely. I don’t know if I saw that on the website when I looked the other day but I still have it in the box and I can take a picture of it and post it here if you are interested. Good luck
  10. Model train layouts have blinking lights for train crossings and signs on the layout. Try evandesigns.com , he has a lot of specialty LED’s and controllers. I bought all my pico, nano and micro SMD LED’s from him and I see that he has a lot more stuff now.
  11. The best source of information and help on building this kit is going to be Codger and his post that he shared the link to. You will probably not take it to the level he did with some of the body mods but it’s the quintessential Rolls Royce Sedanca build anywhere in this forum!
  12. Hey Rich, when you are ready for an airbrush and want some Zero Paint you can get it from Hobby World USA. This is where I have purchased all my Zero paint.
  13. The seats look great! That’s a very nice job on the pleats and piping around the edges. When I did my interior I actually had to build a new floor. The K74 and my K91 are very different in the way the interiors are done. The seat in the K91 was molded in to the floor and had to be cut out to detail. Also there wasn’t much floor left after that. So my problem was to find suitable material for the carpet. I found the same type of flocked looking carpet at a dollhouse supplier. They have any color that you would want. It comes on sheets with an adhesive backing. The sheets are about 12” x 8” or 10” and are fairly inexpensive. I might have mentioned where I got it in my thread.
  14. If I were you, I would add the additional weight of the doors, engine and other various parts that will be on the assembled car before cutting the springs or going with something too low. It might look good mocked up but completely different after assembly and again over time. We all know how heavy and assembled Pocher model can be, especially the die cast ones and, the springs are the things that tend to start collapsing over time. This is why they gave us the little pylons to put under the frame on the Pocher classics. Just something to think about before making any big changes.
  15. Pretty much all the nuts on the model are 2mm and you should find a couple extra here and there to use. You will need to add the threaded rod on the frame rail where the body screws on and on the side of body or frame where the rear part of the fenders attach to the body. You will probably have the body and fenders on and off 40-50 times or more while trying to get everything to fit correctly before final assembly. I think that, I covered the exact placement of the threaded rods on my build. This was probably one of the best things that I did during the build as it relates to being able to put these parts on and off without stripping out the plastic; I wouldn't have had anything left to screw a screw into had I not done it. A big thanks to Codger for that tip.
  16. Jeremy, I’m glad that you decided to post your build here. You will find that you will get a lot of good advice and tips from a lot of very skilled model makers here on the forum. Pocher builds always seem to generate interest now, more than ever because there just aren’t enough on the forum. I’m particularly guilty in that, I have not posted anything since last June. I’m looking back at my notes regarding the hood for you. I also used piano hinges in place of the kit hinges. I’ll get back to you on that. Welcome to the forum!
  17. Thanks Nick. As I have been following along it seems to me that, you started out to upgrade certain pieces on the engine and then once you got started it has evolved into a completely new engine from scratch. I’m guessing that when you are done, you will probably have a complete Pocher engine kit for sale having built a new engine using nothing from the kit.
  18. I knew that I stopped working on my F40 for a reason! Between you and Pascal you’re supplying so many great reference pictures and ideas that, where I am with my engine was a perfect place to stop for a while. Now, with all the great work you are doing it’s making my work look a little anemic by comparison. Even with the Autograph transkit my engine doesn’t approach the level of detail that you are achieving! However, having said that, I’m afraid that most of it wouldn’t be seen once in place inside the body and frame. But, everything on the back end would benefit from the extra detail. I got stumped on the LM exhaust pipes from the turbos back and I can see how the 3D printer would be the answer for the correct piping bends route. If you decide to make a LM exhaust system I’d pay you to make a second one for my build!! One thing that I find very interesting is the individual intake tubing that you are showing rather than the one piece plenum. I don’t think that I’ve ever seen it like that. Great work Nick I really like what you are doing!!
  19. I’m pretty sure that I covered the LED’s in the thread. I got them from a model train supplier. I think that they use them in HO scale train layouts. I know that they also have remotes but, you need an IR sensor somewhere on the model wired into the light circuit. However, it still needs a power source.
  20. I’m curious about how you are going to do a wireless power solution. I have all low power SMD LED’s in the Mercedes and I think that I would probably like to convert to a wireless solution. The way I have it set up in the display case is a little inconvenient to turn them on and, It would be a lot easier to enjoy looking at the Mercedes at night with the lights on by using a remote. I do heartily recommend the LED’s that I used though. They are super small and they can go anywhere. I managed to get them inside the tail light stalks and the front marker lights as well as light up the dashboard gauges. So, they are the perfect solution for the application. I’m looking forward to seeing what you do!
  21. Yeah you could probably put a plug on the bottom of the car with a corresponding plug in the base. I was going to do that and, it would probably have been a much cleaner installation. The only reason why I didn’t was because the model went into a big display case as opposed to its own case. I really wish that I had good place to display it by itself but I don’t. Unfortunately this is the only problem with Pocher models, they are huge and finding display case room is sometimes a problem. Good luck and let me know if I can help
  22. Just in case you’re interested here’s the topic listing for the Mercedes. The lighting saga begins around the bottom of page 21. I hope that it will be of some small help and refresh your memory of all the different iterations I went through trying to figure out how to do my lights. Good luck! Pocher Mercedes 540K True Roadster Build
  23. I probably had a little more room in the Mercedes after cutting out the molded in seat and building a new floor and what I did for the electrical may not work for you but, I documented it all on my thread. Bottom line I wound up using a power supply that plugged into the bottom of the car and I hide the on/off switch inside the transmission and used the gear shift as the toggle. It’s all there in the thread along with what the nano and pico size LED’s. If you need the link to the build I can post it for you. The paint job on the door looks great!
  24. All of this sanding on a color coat and yes, even on clear coats is really dependent upon the type of paint used, how it is applied and how much is actually on the model. In my case, I made a huge mistake by using the Testors Model Masters enamel! This was the beginning of my problems and what dictated everything that came after. The problems are far too many to go into here and I documented them all in the Mercedes thread. Lacquer and acrylics and some of the new two part formulas that lay down a flat finish color coat and then are finished with a clear coat are the way to go. You can get the color coat on pretty thin and then build up with the clear. You get a smooth color coat on then build up your clear coats. I don’t even start sanding the clear until I have at least three coats on. I want to make sure that I can get the orange peel sanded flat on the clear before I polish it out. This is where I disagree with Chas, as long as you have a good base color coat the more clear coats is where you are going to get the depth of the paint color from. And, if you have orange peel on your clear coat you won’t have a mirror finish. Airbrush application is going to be a pretty small amount of paint and little loss of detail. Spray cans are going to be a little heavier coats. This is where the amount of paint on the model will vary depending on how heavy you spray the paint. Temperature and humidity also play a part in how the goes down as well. The only other gremlin is the place it gets painted and, all I’m thinking about here is dust particles. So, lots of variables to consider before the sandpaper or polish even comes out. I think dust is the biggest wild card. Chas has a point but accidents happen when sanding and this is what works for him. What I said at the beginning is what works best for me. The biggest issue when sanding is, if you catch an edge or some molded detail and accidentally sand the paint off the high spots, things happen. This is where the hood side louvres come to mind. You can pretty much control pressure and grit on a flat surface, it’s the raised stuff where you can get into trouble. The only thing that I did was to use some low tack tape and mask over those potential accidents waiting to happen when I am sanding spots like that. Sorry, I didn’t really mean to be so long winded.
  25. So, I went back and read the two previous pages of your thread and it looks like you already know what to do. It’s only one door and everything else is looking perfect so I would just do what you have to do to get it to same quality as everything else that you’ve done. It’s really looking great! When you set a standard for yourself you want to maintain it. It’s only paint and if it takes a repaint, no big deal you can do it!
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