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Everything posted by Pouln

  1. Pfff, I can imagine that, John. The amount of work isn't scaled right either....
  2. Yes, I was one if those who ordered your shocks through Shapeways. Still waiting their turn as the kit is still in my stack.
  3. Very interested to see the results of your tests, Olivier. Who needs Barbatos Rex anyway? Your own tests will do fine. Pity about the stripes saga on the bonnet.
  4. Ron, I think that you have done a great job with these decals. Especially the most prominent ones around the cockpit and on the wings look fantastic. I can imagine that the lines and name on the cockpit surround were a PITA
  5. It does and I am flabbergasted for the little details he adds, like the lock on the (suit)case at the back.
  6. Hi Ron, thanks for showing these pics. I think Chas will be most happy with them. Now, what a fantastic model this has become. The attention to detail is enormous. It simply works and one might think that these are pictures of a multi-million car that you show us here. Do thank David for sharing them with us.
  7. I’m really sorry to hear this, Olivier. This must be a terrible blow for you and your family. 61 is far to young. My sincere condolences.
  8. Thanks, I have seen it and yes it does look nice.
  9. Bigger? Well, you might go for the Elegoo Jupiter, which is on Kickstarter for a quite low price at this time.
  10. Good evening to you all, would any of you have one or more of the sizes of the real life version of the Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 engine as indicated on the picture below? That would really help me.
  11. Sorry to hear that, Olivier. Take your time. Modelling and this bunch are not at all important when it comes to family. Take care.
  12. Looking much better, Ron. I trust you will get it right with gloss end polishing. I always find that pictures show every little flaw that you do not normally see with the naked eye. In reality it will probably be fine.
  13. Is it just me or everyone. Not a single picture visible in your WIP thread, Ken.
  14. Bit late to the party but that has to do with the fact that I would probably never have chosen this car to create a model of. Your execution of this scratch build is really amazing. Fantastic work all around. I'm even starting to l ike this car
  15. Please do expand this into the area of body works. Nice stuff so far. Thanks for doing this. I use the AK true metals too. Really like the stuff.
  16. Just a short update. I have finished the drawings of the knock-offs. I have a new printer that I do not seem to get to work. Waiting for support from Anycubic. Pity because I wanted to print the knock-offs and the axle stands as well as a new version of the radiator I drew some time ago. The earlier drawings of the radiator had horizontal heatpipes which is incorrect, so I removed them. After this one is printed, one should be able to see through the radiator as the square grid is open front to back. I will show it after it is printed. Here are the pictures of the knock-offs. Just like the original above I made sure that the text on the outside (smontare and destro/sinistro) is indented as well as the arrows. I also did a little bit of work on the side mirror. The driver side door has 2 holes which I failed to fill before painting. The mirror does not cover both holes so I added a little plate to the foot of the mirror and soldered 2 guide pins that will fit the 2 holes. With that it should be possible to attach the mirror to the door properly. Next up are the door handles, but that's for a later update. Hope I have my printer up and running soon so that I can show you the printed results. Thanks for watching.
  17. Gee, the modelling gods are not with you on this, Ron. Hope you can get it sanded and glossed.
  18. Hi Olivier, that is indeed what I ment and apparently I missed your earlier comment on this. It wil not be easy to improve that. then again, you are famous for not taking the easy roads to your goal.
  19. Detailing is a fun(ny) business. There is no end to it. I also notice that the pattern on the side of the tires is completely different on the real car compared to the supplied tires. The latter have a radial pattern outside the golden line , while the photos show a much mire intricate pattern on the real ones. Guess you will be forced to replicate that too
  20. Pouln

    'Codger' R I P

    This is really sad news. My condolences to his loved ones. Personally I will miss him very much as he always had good advice and was very supportive to all of us. He stimulated me many times to continu the build of the Alfa and it is a pity that he hasn’t seen it finished. Rest in Peace, my friend.
  21. Hi Wayne, Thanks for pointing that out. I am quite sure, but I must say that I also gave seen knock-offs without any script. I haven’t seen any with only the word Alfa on it, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be right. Today I found a good picture of the knock-off. I also saw one in a jay Leno garage youtube (however that car is a replica) They show nearly the same knockoffs. Here it is: Funny thing though is that the script is not exactly as it was used on the radiator. It has a different A for Alfa and -assumably - for space reasons they moved the Romeo part to the left. Anyway. This is the clearest picture I have ever found of the knock-offs. Other pictures I found do show that there is more than Alfa but you can’t actually read what it says. And I also saw pictures where I am quite sure that there is nothing on it. Anyway, the above picture show that I have a bit more work to do on these nuts (hope they don’t drive me nuts).
  22. The results that Nick got with his wire wheels for the Italeri model, led me to start up my CAD tools and design my own knock-off nuts. The Pocher supplied nuts aren’t the nicest ones. In many reference pics you can see that the Alfa Romeo script is visible on these nuts (not always). So that is one thing that I’m going to add. I also believe that there is a left and right indication on the nuts (in Italian: Sinistro and Destro), but I can’t seem to find the reference pictures that show this clearly If anybody has a reference picture showing that, I would really be happy to receive that. The AR script took most of the time as that is not a letter type that can be found. The only way to create that was by using a template (I found this picture) and transfer that by drawing splines (I tried by converting the template into a so called dxf file but that didn’t work. But now I have perfectly usable script. I made 2 versions of the knock-offs. One with indented script and one with the script on top of the nut body. Be interested to learn which version you think is best to use. I’ve modelled the underside of the nuts such that it will take the head of an M4 bolt, which is needed to secure the wheels on the axle. The only thing to do now is add the left and right script along the edge of the nuts and print them. Then I need to glue the M4 bolt in and it is ready except having them “chromed” (most probably I will be using Molotow for this). The knock-offs have a diameter of 13 mm (based on the size of the Pocher supplied ones) so the script should be quite visible after printing. What else to tell you about the build. I’ve been busy with test fittings of the body on the chassis. Here are some pics. It is clear that there are some gaps to be filled (between A-pillar and dashboard), although you will only see them when the door is opened. Top of the dashboard fits nicely on the lower part of the dashboard. Viewed from the other side: Fit of the two parts of the dashboard is ok, but side panel under the dash sticks to far out. In need of some more work. As you can see I fitted the steering wheel and added a nicely chromed horn button and advance/retard stalk. The latter one was scratched as the Pocher supplied on was really ugly. OK, one more picture That’s where I am right now. Btw, having the CAD stuff in front of me I decided I needed a litle more practice with the tooling so I also made a drawing of axle stands (in fact 3 versions of which only the latter one was good enough). Here it is: One part is missing: the handle that operates the most left part (no idea how you would call it in english). It will be made from metal after printing. The pin that you see between the stand and the other parts is the safety pin that goes through the second hole in the top part of the stand. A chain will be attached of course, otherwise that pin will get lost soon. Well, that’s it for now. Thanks for watching and do comment or pose questions if you like.
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