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  1. This is a Le Mans Miniatures resin with a small amount of photoetch - Soft line version. It came to me through an Etsy seller and the body was actually pre-painted and partly assembled (I have not been able to confirm if this occurred at the factory or with the seller). The body colour was poorly applied and as uneven as icing on a poor wedding cake. I wasn't convinced that the blue/purple colour was correct either so stripped it and started again with Zero's 917 'hippy' 'blurple', which I'm still not sure is absolutely right, reference material is not very forthcoming. Also, again in my opinion, the colour of the LMM green 'hippy' squiggle decals was a bit too... green, I opted for the Model Factory Hiro decals which, however, were a completely different length so there was a lot of cutting and reshaping with decal solution. The car number roundels were an absolute nightmare trying to get them to sit down on compound curves in both directions, splitting was inevitable. With the MFH decals the car number right (pitside) roundel decal is realistically luminous so with my obsession with truth to realism it HAD to be used. It's a good job I had determined to 'weather' this subject as all the badly laid decals are covered with various AK Interactive filters. They say that what doesn't kill you makes you stronger - I'm in for Mr Universe next time!
  2. The kit by Hobby Boss represents an armed version of the tank, although actually the turret with armament was never installed. Building the test version of the vehicle required some scratch-building: the superstructure, the front-plate with windows, covers for the air outlets from the engine compartment, additional air ventilation behind the superstructure and round holders for attaching the towing cable. The mounting of the antenna also had to be removed. The towing cable produced by Eureka XXL (for the Ferdinand SPG). The tracks with separate links turned out to be difficult to assemble, each link required sanding and matching to the neighbouring ones, and the level of their detail left a lot to be desired. In addition, they did not fit the drive wheels. So in the end, I used the rubber tracks from the Sturer Emil Trumpeter kit, for which I bought the ones from Friul anyway. Apart of that, the construction of the model was not difficult and the fit of parts turned out to be very good. Painting with MR Paint paints mixed “judging by eye”, the weathering made with various pigments, mud, and oils from Ammo MIG, AK, and Vallejo. I made subtle chipping with AK graphite. Old school, as they say. Hope you like it :). More photos at my blog. Best, Hubert
  3. This will be my first WIP on here and also my first attempt at detailing up a die cast, it’s going to be a slow one too, summers around the corner and the wife has a large list of jobs around the garden and house. Just a warning. As I said in another thread on the Discussion board, I have always loved the 917 and particularly the JW Engineering run Gulf team, predictable I know but after seeing the movie Le Mans who couldn’t love the blue and orange cars? I used to be a dyed in the wool aircraft modeller but turned to building cars in 1/12th scale a couple of years ago and my aim is to try and produce a collection of models of cars that I saw race in the 70’s, or if I didn’t see the car then cars driven by drivers I had seen or met in that period. Having stated that, I never saw a 917 in action until the Festival of Speed a few years ago and I never saw Jo Siffert in action (mores the pity) but I did see Brian Redman drive in period, and I did go to the cinema in 1971/72 to see Le Mans! With that bit of background, on to the model. I just can’t justify to myself, let alone my wife, spending north of £500 for the MFH kit. I know it would be a superb product but now I’m getting old I don’t have quite the patience to slog on with that type of model, so I’ve also given up on ever buying or building a Pocher kit! I like the opportunity to detail and improve the old Tamiya F1 kits, this is my effort with a Ferrari flat 12 from Laudas 312T So wanting a 917 I thought that a 1/12 die cast might produce a good kerb side model with a few detail tweeks to please my modellers eye and give me some build satisfaction. Now diecasts of this size are not so cheap either, around £200 but a few weeks ago I happened upon an eBay sale of a CMR 1/12 Porsche 917, it was a buy it now or best offer and I put in a lower offer and it was accepted, so for £70 I had a slightly damaged 917, it was the #20 Gulf le Mans car, famed in film by Steve McQueen. I know nothing about CMR but it looked the part and not costing me a fortune meant it could be taken apart relatively painlessly, so here’s what I got. Now I got some helpful comments in my first thread, thanks @klubman01 and @Schwarz-Brot . The model is quite well finished but is typical diecast with some too large details. So a list of modifications I have so far is - 1) the main problem is the model does not have the roof mounted, rearward facing vent – This going to require some scratch building and will therefore entail some degree of a repaint. Not overly happy about that, I was hoping to avoid that as there seems to be no aftermarket decal sheet in 1/12th scale. 2) the model doesn’t have holes for the electric cut out switch pull on the left side behind the door and there is a corresponding hole on the right but I’m not sure what that is. There are transfers indicating these on the model but they don’t cut it for me. 3) add detail around the exposed gearbox/back axle, these can be improved, add oil piping and maybe replace some of the chassis strut work with more in scale brass tube? Detail the suspension. 4) rear deck flip up spoilers are too “up in the air” for the race setting and are missing the adjustable legs at the rear. 5) interior detailing can be improved with wiring to the ignition boxes on the firewall, piping to the extinguisher, better seat belts, additional fuse box on the n/s under the dash, detailing the dash panel, add interior mirror etc. 6) finesse the wiper arm assembly. 7) modify the racing number lights to the correct pattern put wrinkled clear plastic over the headlights and tape them for headlamp protectors rather than just the model’s black decal. 9) Improve and finesse the brakes and wheels. 10) make the exterior paintwork less “diecast”, as suggested by @Schwarz-Brot this may just be emphasising shut lines and toning down the shininess, I’m looking for suggestions here. I’m hoping others may have more ideas as we go forward as I’m no subject matter expert and only a very novice car builder. Last thing before I end this introduction – do I make the race car or the movie car? There are subtle differences. All comments and ideas welcome. Dave
  4. So I’ve posted the 1st model earlier this week alpine a110 rally these are the current builds I’m undertaking the nsr 500 just needs the decals finishing and a few details on the bars painting this was built at the same time as the alpine and lots of similar mistakes were made I’m a bit disappointed with this But it’s nearly done and from the other side of the room looks ok the ducati 888 happy so far engine built and in frame trying to get carbon decals on silencers at the moment bodywork is painted rattle can but will need wet sanding first attempt at that coming up finally the Porsche which I’m building at the same time as the duke engine parts painted and body painted same issues as ducati
  5. This build stalled a couple or few years ago when I looked closely at the windows supplied in the kit and realised the main screens were virtually unusable. I commented on @Peter Milgate's lovely build thread about them and then contacted @capri-schorsch who kindly supplied his vac form set with templates and spare material for just the cost of postage, very generous. So I've got no excuse for pushing on except I'm in the middle of a 917K build! In Pete's thread I said I would start my own so here it is, I'll regard this as a place holder to come back to once the 917 is finished, they're iPhone pictures so don't expect brilliance! The fuel tank was roughed up with an application of plastic solvent (plastic pipe cleaner) and stippled with a stiff brush then given a dark wash. Engine shoe horned in. Just noticed the trailing arms are not there, must check the box to make sure I still have them. Some bits of the interior look as though they have come adrift too... but I'm quite pleased with how it looks overall, not something I usually think but the passage of time dulls the critical side of your brain! When you're in the middle of the project - nothing but self criticism! It may also inspire folk to get and build the sister 934 as it's just been re released by Tamiya. They really are lovely kits. I haven't taken any pictures of the body shell, it's not good, the decals have started to flake as I didn't put a finish lacquer on before it got parked so it looks like a replacement decal set is required as well. So place holder set, future project to finish. Dave
  6. Another build from over a decade ago - whilst I had built a few Tamiya kits in my youth (with only one survivor...), this was the first one I attempted since I took up the hobby again. I don't usually build models of modern cars (this variant of the 911 was current at the time), however I had been a passenger in a GT3 whilst a friend 'exercised' it (for want of a better description) & the acceleration even when he wasn't trying was truly memorable ! As the saying goes though, pride comes before a fall, and I was a bit too pleased with myself over how well I thought that the Monogram Cord had turned out. Whilst the paint was decent, and the black trim on the body & screen print on the glass was ok (hand painted, which took time and a very steady hand), over confidence meant that I didn't take the time to work out how best to treat the head & tail lights, and these didn't look right, which really lets it down. In hindsight, amongst other things, I should have used a black sharpie on the edges of the lenses - on models I have built much more recently, this technique has worked really well and created a very realistic effect. I may try to fix this one, or instead just do a decent job of the regular Carrera version of this kit that I now have in the loft.
  7. Actually it's more a question of how to zimmerit? The supplied stick on zim looks very flat but it may be a better option than home made stuff, we'll see All set to get going on this, photos to follow Cheers, Andy
  8. Porsche 356 Coupe and Cabriolet Revell 1:16 The Porsche 356 range first hit the roads in 1948, with early examples built in Austria. The 356 has an aircooled engine in the back driving the rear wheels and is known as being a lightweight nimble performer. The 356 was built in coupe or cabriolet body style and Revell have given us 2 large scale kits in 1:16 scale. The Coupe kit is a B series, launched in 1959, with improvements and re-styleing over the first A series. The cabriolet is a later C series launched in 1965 this was the final facelift of the 356 range and had a larger engine and disc brakes. The Dutch Police took the final 10 cabriolet models in 1966 before the 911/912 models took their place in the range. Both kits are very similar so I look at them both together pointing out the similarities and differences. The kits come in large boxes with a lift off lid, colourful artwork adorns the top and sides to tempt the casual browser in the shop. Both kits have a large body shell moulding needing the doors, bonnet and boot adding. Although they are coloured (red for the coupe, black for the cabby) they will need painting. I feel the part count is low for this size car, and some details are very basic, the engine being one example being to my mind over simplified, the bonnet (or boot?) is a working part so a well detailed engine that the modeller could add to would have been fantastic. I understand the cost vrs parts argument but at this scale it should be better. I also note that the Coupe is an ‘Easy-click’ model and this has an impact on the build and parts count. Right moan over lets look at some plastic. The bodies are well proportioned to my eye and capture the curves and lines of the 356 they are well moulded with no imperfections or misalignment on my review kits. There is a large web of plastic to be removed from the Cabriolet, this is to help add strength to the shell especially around the windscreen and door openings while in the box. The bars over the door openings on the red coupe stay as the doors don't open on this simplified kit, some parts are there in the box, but not all, you could make up the missing parts if you wish to. The main parts are over 9 further sprues, and they are cast in the correct basic colours, body colour, black and silver grey, so they would only need some detail painting. The light grey interior sprue is for the cabriolet, and black for the coupe, other than that the other sprues are the same. As I said before some detail is disappointing and simplified but saying that they are well cast with no flaws. The build starts with the engine and transmission, the model mirrors the real 356 where the engine and transmission sit in a subframe with the rear axle and suspension as a single unit, this is then added to the body-shell as a unit. This will allow you to build and detail this section before attaching it into the complete and painted body. The front axle is the same with all steering and suspension that can be assembled, painted then added to the of the body-shell and it has the option of having the wheels turned with some steering added. The interior is nice, the seats look good with the stitched pattern copied nicely and handbrake, and gear stick detail along with foot pedals. The doors have window winder, handle and arm rests on the inside and a separate chrome door handle for outside. The convertible has a cream and tan interior, with black and grey inside the coupe. There is no Right-hand drive dashboard, so for a British car you will have to do some work, shouldn’t be too hard as it is a simple flat dashboard. You get the option of a raised roof, or a cover for a folded top on the cabriolet, both have nice textured surfaces and realistic creases and seams on the parts. There are 2 chrome sprues in the kit. The chrome is done well and not over shiny and toy like, but most of us will strip it and re-do with our choice of paint. The gates are well placed so not to be obvious on the finished build if you choose to keep the kit plating. There are 4 rubber tyres (5 in the cabriolet) and the detail is nice on the tread. Both kits come with a decal sheet including some nice small data plates and vin plates, badges and a selection of number plates, the coupe has a simplified sticker set (as part of its ‘Easy-click’ title) but thankfully includes the waterslide also! As expected from Revell they are superbly printed and the dash dials have to be seen close up, you can make out the numbers on the speedometer, and rev-counter. Ill pop my anorak on now, the British plates both are A suffix (so 1963) so unsuitable for the later C series model unless it’s a personal plate, PO shows a West Sussex car. These are a nice pair of Porches, and will be cracking models with a little work. The Coupe is over simplified with non-opening doors and bonnet, while the cabriolet has these features. Only some of the parts needed are there on the coupe? Why not have all the bits, and instructions to give the modeller the option? Nice models but for me, with some work will be cracking big car models. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  9. Here's my 956 build with shunko decals and scale Motorsport detail up set. My first attempt at super detailing the engine. The kit was the original 956 from 1985
  10. Hi All, I had hoped that this would be my last RFI of 2018, but I ran out of time on New Year's eve... So, it's my first RFI of 2019. This is one of the many Fujimi 911 variants. I have had this in my stash for probably 30 years, and I had partially completed it about 15 years ago, then for whatever reason, I put it away and more or less forgot about it. If you want to see the build thread, go here. Anyway, I finally finished it last night, but because I was tired, I didn't take pictures until this evening. So, here they are: A common complaint that I have heard on this forum is that Fujimi Car kits seems to have a very high ride height. This one doesn't seem too bad. It looks about right to me. This one looks a bit odd as the foreground is completely out of focus and makes the whole car look weird. The camera just focused on the top of the window frame! I might try to get a better picture later. I have just noticed that the rear wheel seems to be protruding from the bodywork on the right side. This is because there is about 2mm of lateral movement on the steel bar that is the axle. With careful positioning, the axle can be centred. What I really need is a spacer on each side, but that would require dismantling the back of the car, which I am not prepared to do. The only other problem that I encountered was that the decals appeared to be made of formica and just about as flexible. My decal softener didn't seem to touch it! Overall, though I am quite pleased with the end result. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Alan.
  11. Hello All, Another one rescued from the dungeon of despondency! I bought this little beastie a long while back, probably over 25 years ago, and it languished it its box for a long time. Again, it was one that I got out more recently, did some more work, then put away again, probably due to the issues with my eyesight. Anyway, too much waffle. This week after I had completed the 288 GTO, I happened upon this box in my garage (The previously mentioned Dungeon of Despondency), and thought "Why not this one?", So, here we are again: The box: Typical Koenig 'over the top' conversion, I think... The body, previously painted with Humbrol Red (Hu 19). I was really pleased with the finish. Applied from a spray can, I think. No great amount of orange-peel to be seen. The nose. Slightly fuzzy. I think the camera moved while I took the picture ... The rear. Again, a really nice finish... The underside. I think that the steering looks a bit strange, but it's the way the model was made. I suspect that it's a normal Fujimi 911 floor pan moulding that has had extras added, so the wheel offsets are a bit 'wide' to fit the wider body-shell, if that makes sense... It sits on all four wheels 'four-square', which is always a bonus. I had to make replacement tail pipes, as one of the 'chromed' ones pinged off into the wild, never to be seen again. A bit of 1/8th inch 'evergreen' styrene tubing, with the end routed out to simulate the tail-pipe and hey-presto, new tail-pipes. So that's where we have got to. A promising start... Thanks for looking, Alan.
  12. Hi all, Thought I'd get something up as a first "look what I done" post. I built this 993 GT2 during March of this year whilst on leave. In all honesty I didn't care much for the Porsche marque but in making this model that changed, strange how making a kit can do that... The metallic panels look a bit metal-flake as I have projector LED room lights and the interior really is in red oxide primer! There was a pic on the net of a rejected chassis in this colour, it's a nice contrast if nothing else. Some in progress shots of the body. Tamiya liquid primer (the one in the glass bottle) smoothed down and masked for the bright steel colour. Blu/White-tac works really well for masking compound curves quickly:   Bright steel panels masked for the dark steel colour. Turned out to be pointless as the primer cancelled out the different tones: Steel panels masked for fibreglass colour. Tamiya vinyl tape was used to match the contours, it doesn't stick very well though:   Body masked for polyurethane colour. Strange that the 993 GT2 had plastic bumpers, mirrors and engine cover/tail, I thought they were carbon fibre:   Masking the wheels. I stripped off the chrome and painted the center magnesium alloy and the hoop aluminium, carefully applied white-tac worked wonders here again:   All the best.
  13. This was to have been my first ever car kit, but as some of you will have noticed, the Fujimi Ford GT40 pipped it to the post, despite the Ford being started much, much later. The Porsche was, as I suspected, a bit too ambitious for a ‘first’, but never the less it’s provided me with much valuable experience so I can’t really complain. The biggest headache for me was determining in what order to assemble and paint and if I was doing it again I’d change quite a few of my practices. As the Ford, it’s built ‘out of the box’ as I wanted to keep the experience as simple as possible (simple? yeh, right!) Anyway, it’s been an enjoyable build and here it is for your delectation warts an’ all. As ever, all useful criticism is gratefully accepted. Porsche and Ford together:
  14. Hi all, well it's time to get a new model on the go, fingers crossed I can get my photos up the right way this time. had this for a while now and as I'm waiting for my next project in the post, I thought I may as well got on with this one. so first up the box and instructions; and of course the sprue shots This looks like a nice kerbside kit with plenty of detail. I will be building it out of the box, my next build however won't be... but I have strayed off topic. The chassis has been cleaned up and primed and painted the body colour, I really like this colour.... and after some fiddly masking the engine gets a dash of colour.... Time to get the under carriages little bits prepped and primed Well that's all for this post, fingers crossed the pics display ok for those of you looking in from the PC platform. as always, any and all comments welcomed. Thanks for dropping by, Coops
  15. I finished this 1/43rd Starter kit of the 1970 Martini Porsche 908/02 short tail today. It's built box stock and I used Tamiya acrylics and lacquers along with 2 part auto urethane clear coat. Really enjoyed this simple yet detailed kit.
  16. Ok, So after a long pause, here is the finished build. For those interested the build is here. Thanks for looking in and I welcome any criticisms and comments. Coops
  17. Hi everyone, My first build of 2017. I built Tamiya's 1/24 Porsche 961 kit. The kit is very simple and a snap-together kit. I believe it was originally an R/C kit, hence the simplicity. I added a few details, namely the radio antenna, mesh at the rear, a windshield wiper, and mirrors leftover from by Ebbro Tyrrell 003 build. I weathered the car to make it look like it did when it finished a remarkable 7th in the 1986 24 Hours of Le Mans. The car currently sits in Rothmans livery at the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart. As always, comments and critiques are welcome. Thanks for looking, Jake
  18. Hi all, Here is my latest build - the Hasegawa 1/24 Porsche 962. A fun little build, this kit was re-released midway through last year. I finished it as the Omron 962 Vern Schuppan ran with great success in Japan in 1989. This is chassis 962-008, which was earlier in life a factory Rothmans car and the red/yellow Shell/Dunlop car the Andrettis drove at Le Mans in 1988. I used Tamiya lacquers for the paintwork and acrylics for the weathering. I used a little "artistic license" with the paintwork. As always, comments and critiques are very welcome. Thanks for looking, Jake
  19. I've been looking around for a newer model Porsche 911 (GT3 RS preferably) kit in 1/24 scale but I can't find anything,only the old 911's from the 90's and early 2000's.Is there even a new 911 in 1/24 out there at the moment?? If anyone could recommend a good kit,that would be very helpful. Thank you
  20. Hi this is my 4th model the Revell 918 Spyder. I have used some scal carbon fibre and Plamoz wheels which was not from the Kit, Gravity and Zero colors for paint. I like the final result i am happy with it unfortunately it was rushed as i had a due date to finish but there arnt really many imperfections to be seen by the eye. any feed back is appreciated i may build another one of these in the future as a very enjoyable detailed model.
  21. This is the final thread for my porsche 962 that raced in the 1988 lemans being beaten by the monstrous jaguar xjr9 lm. This started out as a revell porsche 962 rothmans kit, also I had the god awful tamiya 962 kit which I originally only planned to use for the shell/Dunlop decals but a few more parts of the car were added to enhance the revell body. Modifications made were mainly to the rear end using plasticard to lengthen the rear deck. I also corrected the naca ducts on the roof/engine cover with the help of the tamiya body shell And the rear wing supports where made with plasticard and a file. Other than that everything else was just the revell kit. Paints were tamiya white primer, zero paints lotus yellow, zero paints ferrari pre 04 red, tamiya black, zero paints premixed clear and tamiya semi gloss clear. With a cheap Wilkinsons paint for the floor pan and other bits that will never be seen. Be warned it is pretty photo heavy Here it is. Finally a few pictures with a couple of my other cars that fit with this With the car that beat it in the real race aswell as the build race And the car that made me think modifying a revell porsche into other variations was possible Overall I think this kind of modification to a revell or hasegawa porsche 962 is relatively simple once you know what you want to add and would suggest trying to anyone one here. Thanks for looking Shaun
  22. Hi guys, A model i decided to start to have a break from the Revell tornado, thought id share it with you, No major problems so far, no engine or much interior detail so has been a fairly quick build so far, started last monday and in the final stages already. This is only my second ever model car so be gentle Great invention!!! The result, very happy with this! Decals on. windscreen done and first gloss coat.. second gloss coat, very shiny!! still needs a few spots to be rubbed down and reglossed.
  23. There doesn't seem to be much online for this one. Any thoughts? Cheers, Andrew
  24. Porsche GT3R Resin Wheel sets. 1:24 resin from FG Models The Porsche GT3 is the high performance version of the Porsche 911, with the GT3R being the track racing model and is equipped with all the regulation safety equipment to allow it to race competitively. There are a couple of options when it comes to building a 1:24 GT3, the Tamiya 911 GT3, or the Fujimi GT3R. FG Models have produced 2 resin wheel sets for these kits. The first set I will look at comes in a nice card box and is cast in a pale gray resin. The resin is very nice with no flaws or flash on the set. The detail on the rims is very fine with nice thin spokes on the wheels with the 3D shape of the spokes is also captured on the resin parts, as can be seen in the second picture. BBS wheel set. The second set received for review is a set of BBS centerlocks. These are 3 part wheels designed for strength and low weight. The wheels are cast in the usual gray resin, and again the casting is superb with no flaws in the casting. Below is a shot showing the shape of the spokes, and the detail of the locking nuts around the rim. Also included is a set of center lock nuts. These are cast separately as they come in an anodised blue or red colour on the car, so this will ease painting them against the wheel. Conclusion A very nice wheel set with a high level of detail. FG models have asked me to point you towards there E-bay site but asked me to mention their parts can be brought through other avenues such as Hobbyeasy.com, hlj.com, Mediamixhobby.com.sg. Please mention Britmodeller when buying through FG models E-bay shop Review sample from
  25. Hello everyone. Something different from me again. Found this kit on a car boot sale and bought it for couple quid. Now finally decided to build it. It's a nice easy kit to assemble. The harder part starts when it comes to painting it. I had couple ideas for it but decided to make it chrome finished. Everything was smooth and great: Of course I have used Alclad2 chrome, and finally after few tries I was really happy with the effect as you can see. Unfortunately I wasn't happy with the gloss level and decided to go for some clear laquer from halfords. Decided to use Enamel Spray Paint, blue can. Tested it on some old plastic parts and it was just perfect. But when I sprayed Porsche with it.. Well, all the magic that comes with Alclad disappeared leaving the model with a high glossy graphite metallic finish Still not too bad, but not what I wanted to achieve. I guess I should first spray it with some Pledge to secure alclad with acrylic and then use enamel laquer. I couldn't wash it off, as it was quite a thick layer and it will probably ruin the whole model. Anyways it still looks suprisingly good It's more glossy then it appears on pictures (well, on some you can see it). I had a lot of problems with decals. The kit was 17 years old and It took 2-3 minutes in the water before decals were moving on the decal sheet. Then they were really fragile and even with a soft brush they were falling apart. Lucky enough I have a lot of Set and sol, that helped. Inside on one of the pictures you can see carpets made with a grass flock, then painted red. I think it does the trick and imitate the carpets quite well. No more talking. Enjoy! Thanks! Bart.
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