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After completing a 'Blower' Bentley for the "Give peace a chance" GB, I thought it would be good to build a turbocharged 1980s Porsche 935 for a pair of forced induction Le Mans classics. Luckily, I had a Nunu kit in the stash and started work on Good Friday.... The kit is kindof split into 3 separate build stages, the chassis, the interior and the exterior bodywork. I've already built most of the chassis, and weathered appropriately. The exhaust system required a little fettling to join up, but it's still not quite correct - it feels like the parts are not quite the right size... Edited to add : this will be the first Porsche 911 based kit I've ever built!!!!

Hello all, after a short intermission I'm finally back to building Model Factory Hiro kits. Around Christmas time I finally got fed up with using rattlecans for paint and decided to invest the money into airbrushing. After practicing on a couple of easier kits I'm confident my skills are up to level and ready to get back to the serious stuff that I love so much. The kit here is the Model Factory Hiro RSR Turbo 2.1, which I've coveted and been trying to find for about a year. One finally came up on eBay for an extremely reasonable price, which I snapped up in an instant, of course getting it here proved to be its own problem. As soon as I ordered the kit, Canada Post decided it'd be a great time for a strike! What lovely luck for me.... 🤣 I didn't end up seeing the package for about two months, it finally arrived in early January. Now that my skills are polished its time to start the long awaited build. The turbo 2.1 RSR is probably my favourite Porsche ever made aside from maybe the 935's I've always had a huge love for the turbocharged 'fast' 911's, and this is the father of them all. Its hard not to be enamored with its massive flared out rear wheels, iconic martini livery, and monster turbo flat six. I mean seriously, LOOK at this thing: I had additional luck in finding the RSR variant I wanted, which is the version B kit. There are numerous reasons for my preference of the version B kit, the first being the driver Helmut Koiningg, who was taken too soon in a tragic F1 accident, reading about him as a driver has given me an appreciation for him, and I'm happy to be building the version which he drove at Le Mans. The second reason being the configuration of the car, n the first pictures shown the rear windows are covered with big NACA ducts, whereas in the version B the rear windows are uncovered. Additionally the engine fan is different, mounted vertically instead of horizontally, which in my opinion looks much better. Version B details pictured below: With all of the rambling taken care of, I think its time we actually look at the build and what I've got done. - Big box of fun This update will focus on the first step of the instructions. No colour references provided here, which means I'll have to collect a lot of quality pictures. The first thing to do is take care of the absolutely massive resin chassis piece. I made sure to soak the resin and give it a good scrub to allow for quality paint adhesion, this part ended up taking a bit of time as the sheer size meant I needed to use a lot of coats and cover a huge amount of area. Dividing it up and taking it slow was my best friend here, and after a couple of airbrush sessions everything ended up looking proper. The next order of business is assembling the rear frame, I have no idea what colour this would be on the real car but I thought alclad polished aluminum was a safe bet that would look good. The tubes here need a bit of work and filing before they can be painted, a couple of holes drilled and maybe a bit of reshaping too. The test fit assured me everything was ready for a coat of paint. We can now go from that sad flat look, to this crisp shiny look -> Now we have to fill in this big hole, this one right here ---^ (I don't know if the formatting will make my arrow point to the right spot in the picture above, but worth a shot 🧐) I also need to add this mounting bar that connects to the rear wheels. I forgot to take a picture of the painted cap piece before putting it on, but a coat of paint later and that resin bar piece is looking a lot better. So then we bring it all together... pretty easy stuff here thankfully. With all that in place, its starting to look like I've actually begun building the model!! 🤣 We now must turn our attention to the interior, where the shifter and associated assembly will be put into place. It was sort of hard to find a good reference of the interior parts, I opted to do the center console part in flat black as opposed to semi gloss just to help break up the colours a bit. For the shifter and linkage I assume its pretty much impossible to find a 'true' accurate colour, but its not light enough to be aluminum, and not dark enough to be any of the grey ish colours. I mixed a bit of metallic grey and titanium gold to get what I think is a pretty close recreation. Close enough right? With that installed, the end of step one is drawing near. All thats left to do is include the pedals and the floor tray. The muddy somewhat transparent yellow plastic that is present on pretty much every old porsche is a bit of a trick to try and recreate. I see everyone have a different interpretation of how it should look, personally I really dislike the way pocher do it, as it looks too much like a cookie. The plastic should be somewhat clear, somewhat inconsistent in finish, and somewhat muddy in terms of colour, I tried my best to recreate this with a couple of tricks. The plastic starts out already somewhat accurate, courtesy of MFH, but is much too clear. I clouded it up with a weird mix of flat clear, clear orange, yellow, and desert yellow. There wasn't really an exact science to this, I just sort of added a few drops of things until it came out looking roughly right in the cup. This is definitely better, the plastic is still clear, you can see the pattern on the bottom shine through, but looks a lot foggier. This is a bit too clean looking for my tastes though, so I used a mix of smoke and clear orange to help muddy it up. The original picture I took before it was installed had odd lighting and really didnt do the colour justice, so we'll have to look at one thats a bit jumped ahead. I'm really pleased with this, I mean come on, thats pretty dead on no? Now lets take a look at how those pedals got there, pretty simple work but still nice to see a close up. This is the same mix of metallic grey and titanium gold, with a bit of thin smoke on the top to make the pedals look dirty. I really find the gold takes the edge off the metallic grey to produce an awesome colour. With those detailed and done it pretty much becomes a job of putting these components pictured below, into the car. So there we are, step one of 20 something is finished. I'm really pleased with this so far, and very excited to build this kit and see the finished result. This is really a dream build for me so I'm trying to get the best out of it. Thank you everyone for checking in, I'd be happy to hear what everyone thinks. The next step will be building some stuff in the front compartment, which should only take a couple of days, so expect to hear from me somewhat soon. I think I'd like to break the thread down into completed steps, makes it easier to organize when to post.

I was extracting a whole load of kits from my 'hidden' (more precisely, 'blocked') stash. I finally moved all the stuff from the kitchen refurbishment, so I could get at my trapped models. I recovered about thirty plus kits from the cupboard... Anyway, to the topic at hand. I'm making this a WiP as I expect to try an do some of this soon. This is an old Monogram 1/24th model. It's a simple click to fit kit for young people. I originally bought it for a fun 'quick build'. It is an extremely simple kit with onoly 34 parts... So: The box. The box picture appears to show the actual kit, built. Those wheels have gotta go... I have found some year appropriate Fuchs wheels and tyres on a German site, so I will be getting those. The body. That doesn't look too bad. It looks a bit 'matt' as a number of years ago, I had sprayed it with Halfords' car primer and orange (I forget which orange). However, it was a complete bodge and looked it. So I submerged it in Brake fluid and it removed all the paint, but of course it did leave a slight matt finish as a result. Nothing that a sand with 3000 grit Tamiya sanding paper won't resolve. I compared the body with the Tamiya 1988 911 Turbo kit, and it looks pretty accurate. Well, good enough for me... The floor-pan. Pretty c**p, if you ask me. Again, the general proportions look good compared with the Tamiya version. The wheels attach to a couple of plastic rods that go through holes in the wheel-arches. I am planning a few mods here: That back-end is going completely (not until I have measured it all, so that it can go back together well). I am planning to use a more detailed 911 model to fabricate a new rear-suspension setup from various plastic bits and pieces. I have a huge collection of plastic rod in various section types (Round, hexagonal, square and so on). I think that the worst bit will be the semi-trailing arms. They have quite a complex shape. I am sure that I can use one of my other 911 rear ends as a moderl for those. Only time will tell. This will also mean that I need to fabricate the engine and transmission to some degree.. On top of that, I will then need to line all of this up again with the existing remains of the floor-pan. Because this kit has simple rod axles both front and rear, I will need to rustle up a 'working' front end. I plan to replicate the front suspension and steering, again using another more accurate 911 model to replicate the McPherson struts (At least, I think they are McPherson struts! ). That will need a steering rack fabricated. I've done this before, so no big issues there, I think. Still, a shed load of work. The 'chrome' sprue. The wheels I have already discussed earlier. These ones are just not up to snuff at all! I plan on replicating the gear-stick. The exhaust pipes look a bit dodgy as well. They will be replaced with something better. I like the look of the Revell 911 G model exhausts. Bending plastic rod into complicated manifolds may well prove a big task. Let's see... I will probably use the head-lamps, but again, there are alternatives available in the after-market. The glass and passenger 'tub' I'm in two minds about this part. I may fabricate a new tub using aftermarket resin seats. I think I can mock up the door cards. Well see. This may be a step too far... The 'glass' is mostly OK, but I want to put in door glass. That will be fun ... The front and rear valances. They look OK, though probably not 'prototypical' I will use them. I have a few missing parts. Well, actually only two, really. The steering column and wheel. There are aftermarket parts available for this as well.... All in all, a lot of work for a simple Monogram kit with 34 parts. I can hear you saying: "Why bother?" Well, because: It's a Porsche and needs some love. It's not a completely bad kit, just a simple one. I fancy a challenge! 🤪 Did I mention it's a Porsche? Wish me luck as I plunge into the vortex .... 🌪️ Cheers, Alan.

All, it looks like the long awaited Nunu Porsche 911 "pink pig" has now landed in UK model shops. I'm keen to model this but I'm looking for a suitable Acrylic for the famous Pink colour. I know there are various specialist paint manufacturers offering exact matches in Laquer and various exotic paint cocktails, but I don't want the faff of changing my painting/cleaning routine just for this model unless there really is no sensible alternative. I would blend my own concoction, but I'm colourblind which could lead to the first "brown pig" ever modelled TLDR; Are there any Acrylic options for the "pink pig" colour? TIA.

Model - NuNu Porsche 935 k3 Details - Aftermarket hood pins, tow hook, DIY interior cabling, brake bias, IP lamps, flocking, dual rear diffusers on exterior LED - DIY lamps using a CR2032 battery with switch soldered to 0402 SMD LEDs Pros First completed build in 21 years Highly motivated and inspired First time weathering First time using airbrush First time removing items off a body First time adding LED’s Cons Multiple paint mistakes, Sanding mistakes Dropped it once Importantly it’s finished and documented. I am verycontent and have multiple started which will be the next! WIP thread -

My first 1:24 scale thread! For my permanent return into the 1:24 scale I promised myself to allow myself to do something not elaborate and simply box stock. Ease into the difficulty levels and allow lots of dry time, overkill long really. There’s no worse feeling then having paint lift with masking tape or gumming up while sanding etc etc. since the 80s I have built 50-60 models. A handful of them didn’t traumatize me, the rest have. I had this one in the stash for a while and thought it would be a good candidate to continue my journey. The main goal is a nice box stock build and an attempt at light weathering if I can stomach it. Been wanting to try for 30 years it’s time. I started by clipping the exterior bits and gluing them in place. There is many glues to use today or maybe there always was but this is a first for me, using super glue. I really don’t like holding items in place to wait to dry so I am trying another method to what I am normally used to doing. I am no historian so I am going for gut feeling and visual excitement. Roughly 95% box stock? I sanded away the hood pins and cut in where I’d like the tow hook to stick out of. I am using aftermarket parts for both. I have a plan to paint the rear section of the 935 black as I always liked how it looked on the wide body race cars. The body sits in Tamiya primer.

This is my model of the Koenig Specials Porsche 928 S4; Fujimi kit #12003 (RS-03). The model is completely out of the box, painted with Model Master Turquoise Green over Tamiya’s Champagne Gold. The sample dot on the lid of the Model Master paint shows much richer colour deeper in blue so the paint is something of a disappointment. The interior is various Tamiya tans and light browns. The kit is very simple but goes together well, and the final model looks good on the shelf. Thanks for looking, Grant. With my model of the Fujimi Koenig Specials Porsche 911 Biturbo.

Here is my 1/24 Tamiya Porsche 934, built to represent a car from the Max Moritz Racing Team in 1976. In addition to the kit decals, I also added some decals from Decalpool for the Shell and Dunlop logos. I also added seatbelts from Studio27. The body was painted with Splash Paints Jägermeister orange and clear coated with Gravity 2K. This was meant to be a quick and easy build, but some setbacks along the way made it take several months to complete. It's not my best work, but I'm just happy it's finally done! Questions, comments, and especially critiques are most welcome. - Justin

Hi Pals, a new kit for assembly. The one chosen this time is another queen of the stash, a KT but with a Porsche turret, from the MENG brand, one gets used to the good, and the previous CHARC C2 was a joy, if there were mistakes, they were on my part. I already have a KT but with a Henschel (Zvezda) turret, so it will be a good example to compare models. It seems like another kit with not too many unnecessary parts (more tiny parts don't make it a better kit...at least it's my modest opinion), and with some very cool goodies, like the metal cannon, and the jigs to assemble the tracks properly, Although with the size they have, they do not seem difficult to manipulate. What I dislike somewhat are the camos they offer for the model, which do not appeal to me at all, one of the reasons why I have been putting this kit aside. But when I get to that river, I'll cross that bridge... The idea is to make it as OOB as possible, but this time I wanted something with Zimmerit, and I had a set from a long time ago from Tamiya for KT Porsche. The MENG one did not have stock where I bought it for now, so it should work, it will probably be a little more difficult than it should be, but it will be a good comparison test for dimensions with both brands. This is my first time using one of these, I hope I don't ruin it...😁. Until the first update. Thanks for watching and commenting as always. Cheers Francis.👍

This is a Le Mans Miniatures resin with a small amount of photoetch - Soft line version. It came to me through an Etsy seller and the body was actually pre-painted and partly assembled (I have not been able to confirm if this occurred at the factory or with the seller). The body colour was poorly applied and as uneven as icing on a poor wedding cake. I wasn't convinced that the blue/purple colour was correct either so stripped it and started again with Zero's 917 'hippy' 'blurple', which I'm still not sure is absolutely right, reference material is not very forthcoming. Also, again in my opinion, the colour of the LMM green 'hippy' squiggle decals was a bit too... green, I opted for the Model Factory Hiro decals which, however, were a completely different length so there was a lot of cutting and reshaping with decal solution. The car number roundels were an absolute nightmare trying to get them to sit down on compound curves in both directions, splitting was inevitable. With the MFH decals the car number right (pitside) roundel decal is realistically luminous so with my obsession with truth to realism it HAD to be used. It's a good job I had determined to 'weather' this subject as all the badly laid decals are covered with various AK Interactive filters. They say that what doesn't kill you makes you stronger - I'm in for Mr Universe next time!

The kit by Hobby Boss represents an armed version of the tank, although actually the turret with armament was never installed. Building the test version of the vehicle required some scratch-building: the superstructure, the front-plate with windows, covers for the air outlets from the engine compartment, additional air ventilation behind the superstructure and round holders for attaching the towing cable. The mounting of the antenna also had to be removed. The towing cable produced by Eureka XXL (for the Ferdinand SPG). The tracks with separate links turned out to be difficult to assemble, each link required sanding and matching to the neighbouring ones, and the level of their detail left a lot to be desired. In addition, they did not fit the drive wheels. So in the end, I used the rubber tracks from the Sturer Emil Trumpeter kit, for which I bought the ones from Friul anyway. Apart of that, the construction of the model was not difficult and the fit of parts turned out to be very good. Painting with MR Paint paints mixed “judging by eye”, the weathering made with various pigments, mud, and oils from Ammo MIG, AK, and Vallejo. I made subtle chipping with AK graphite. Old school, as they say. Hope you like it :). More photos at my blog. Best, Hubert

This will be my first WIP on here and also my first attempt at detailing up a die cast, it’s going to be a slow one too, summers around the corner and the wife has a large list of jobs around the garden and house. Just a warning. As I said in another thread on the Discussion board, I have always loved the 917 and particularly the JW Engineering run Gulf team, predictable I know but after seeing the movie Le Mans who couldn’t love the blue and orange cars? I used to be a dyed in the wool aircraft modeller but turned to building cars in 1/12th scale a couple of years ago and my aim is to try and produce a collection of models of cars that I saw race in the 70’s, or if I didn’t see the car then cars driven by drivers I had seen or met in that period. Having stated that, I never saw a 917 in action 😞 until the Festival of Speed a few years ago and I never saw Jo Siffert in action (mores the pity) but I did see Brian Redman drive in period, and I did go to the cinema in 1971/72 to see Le Mans! With that bit of background, on to the model. I just can’t justify to myself, let alone my wife, spending north of £500 for the MFH kit. I know it would be a superb product but now I’m getting old I don’t have quite the patience to slog on with that type of model, so I’ve also given up on ever buying or building a Pocher kit! I like the opportunity to detail and improve the old Tamiya F1 kits, this is my effort with a Ferrari flat 12 from Laudas 312T So wanting a 917 I thought that a 1/12 die cast might produce a good kerb side model with a few detail tweeks to please my modellers eye and give me some build satisfaction. Now diecasts of this size are not so cheap either, around £200 but a few weeks ago I happened upon an eBay sale of a CMR 1/12 Porsche 917, it was a buy it now or best offer and I put in a lower offer and it was accepted, so for £70 I had a slightly damaged 917, it was the #20 Gulf le Mans car, famed in film by Steve McQueen. I know nothing about CMR but it looked the part and not costing me a fortune meant it could be taken apart relatively painlessly, so here’s what I got. Now I got some helpful comments in my first thread, thanks @klubman01 and @Schwarz-Brot . The model is quite well finished but is typical diecast with some too large details. So a list of modifications I have so far is - 1) the main problem is the model does not have the roof mounted, rearward facing vent – This going to require some scratch building and will therefore entail some degree of a repaint. Not overly happy about that, I was hoping to avoid that as there seems to be no aftermarket decal sheet in 1/12th scale. 2) the model doesn’t have holes for the electric cut out switch pull on the left side behind the door and there is a corresponding hole on the right but I’m not sure what that is. There are transfers indicating these on the model but they don’t cut it for me. 3) add detail around the exposed gearbox/back axle, these can be improved, add oil piping and maybe replace some of the chassis strut work with more in scale brass tube? Detail the suspension. 4) rear deck flip up spoilers are too “up in the air” for the race setting and are missing the adjustable legs at the rear. 5) interior detailing can be improved with wiring to the ignition boxes on the firewall, piping to the extinguisher, better seat belts, additional fuse box on the n/s under the dash, detailing the dash panel, add interior mirror etc. 6) finesse the wiper arm assembly. 7) modify the racing number lights to the correct pattern 😎 put wrinkled clear plastic over the headlights and tape them for headlamp protectors rather than just the model’s black decal. 9) Improve and finesse the brakes and wheels. 10) make the exterior paintwork less “diecast”, as suggested by @Schwarz-Brot this may just be emphasising shut lines and toning down the shininess, I’m looking for suggestions here. I’m hoping others may have more ideas as we go forward as I’m no subject matter expert and only a very novice car builder. Last thing before I end this introduction – do I make the race car or the movie car? There are subtle differences. All comments and ideas welcome. Dave

So I’ve posted the 1st model earlier this week alpine a110 rally these are the current builds I’m undertaking the nsr 500 just needs the decals finishing and a few details on the bars painting this was built at the same time as the alpine and lots of similar mistakes were made I’m a bit disappointed with this But it’s nearly done and from the other side of the room looks ok the ducati 888 happy so far engine built and in frame trying to get carbon decals on silencers at the moment bodywork is painted rattle can but will need wet sanding first attempt at that coming up finally the Porsche which I’m building at the same time as the duke engine parts painted and body painted same issues as ducati

This build stalled a couple or few years ago when I looked closely at the windows supplied in the kit and realised the main screens were virtually unusable. I commented on @Peter Milgate's lovely build thread about them and then contacted @capri-schorsch who kindly supplied his vac form set with templates and spare material for just the cost of postage, very generous. So I've got no excuse for pushing on except I'm in the middle of a 917K build! In Pete's thread I said I would start my own so here it is, I'll regard this as a place holder to come back to once the 917 is finished, they're iPhone pictures so don't expect brilliance! The fuel tank was roughed up with an application of plastic solvent (plastic pipe cleaner) and stippled with a stiff brush then given a dark wash. Engine shoe horned in. Just noticed the trailing arms are not there, must check the box to make sure I still have them. Some bits of the interior look as though they have come adrift too... but I'm quite pleased with how it looks overall, not something I usually think but the passage of time dulls the critical side of your brain! When you're in the middle of the project - nothing but self criticism! It may also inspire folk to get and build the sister 934 as it's just been re released by Tamiya. They really are lovely kits. I haven't taken any pictures of the body shell, it's not good, the decals have started to flake as I didn't put a finish lacquer on before it got parked so it looks like a replacement decal set is required as well. So place holder set, future project to finish. Dave

Another build from over a decade ago - whilst I had built a few Tamiya kits in my youth (with only one survivor...), this was the first one I attempted since I took up the hobby again. I don't usually build models of modern cars (this variant of the 911 was current at the time), however I had been a passenger in a GT3 whilst a friend 'exercised' it (for want of a better description) & the acceleration even when he wasn't trying was truly memorable ! As the saying goes though, pride comes before a fall, and I was a bit too pleased with myself over how well I thought that the Monogram Cord had turned out. Whilst the paint was decent, and the black trim on the body & screen print on the glass was ok (hand painted, which took time and a very steady hand), over confidence meant that I didn't take the time to work out how best to treat the head & tail lights, and these didn't look right, which really lets it down. In hindsight, amongst other things, I should have used a black sharpie on the edges of the lenses - on models I have built much more recently, this technique has worked really well and created a very realistic effect. I may try to fix this one, or instead just do a decent job of the regular Carrera version of this kit that I now have in the loft.

Actually it's more a question of how to zimmerit? The supplied stick on zim looks very flat but it may be a better option than home made stuff, we'll see All set to get going on this, photos to follow Cheers, Andy

Porsche 356 Coupe and Cabriolet Revell 1:16 The Porsche 356 range first hit the roads in 1948, with early examples built in Austria. The 356 has an aircooled engine in the back driving the rear wheels and is known as being a lightweight nimble performer. The 356 was built in coupe or cabriolet body style and Revell have given us 2 large scale kits in 1:16 scale. The Coupe kit is a B series, launched in 1959, with improvements and re-styleing over the first A series. The cabriolet is a later C series launched in 1965 this was the final facelift of the 356 range and had a larger engine and disc brakes. The Dutch Police took the final 10 cabriolet models in 1966 before the 911/912 models took their place in the range. Both kits are very similar so I look at them both together pointing out the similarities and differences. The kits come in large boxes with a lift off lid, colourful artwork adorns the top and sides to tempt the casual browser in the shop. Both kits have a large body shell moulding needing the doors, bonnet and boot adding. Although they are coloured (red for the coupe, black for the cabby) they will need painting. I feel the part count is low for this size car, and some details are very basic, the engine being one example being to my mind over simplified, the bonnet (or boot?) is a working part so a well detailed engine that the modeller could add to would have been fantastic. I understand the cost vrs parts argument but at this scale it should be better. I also note that the Coupe is an ‘Easy-click’ model and this has an impact on the build and parts count. Right moan over lets look at some plastic. The bodies are well proportioned to my eye and capture the curves and lines of the 356 they are well moulded with no imperfections or misalignment on my review kits. There is a large web of plastic to be removed from the Cabriolet, this is to help add strength to the shell especially around the windscreen and door openings while in the box. The bars over the door openings on the red coupe stay as the doors don't open on this simplified kit, some parts are there in the box, but not all, you could make up the missing parts if you wish to. The main parts are over 9 further sprues, and they are cast in the correct basic colours, body colour, black and silver grey, so they would only need some detail painting. The light grey interior sprue is for the cabriolet, and black for the coupe, other than that the other sprues are the same. As I said before some detail is disappointing and simplified but saying that they are well cast with no flaws. The build starts with the engine and transmission, the model mirrors the real 356 where the engine and transmission sit in a subframe with the rear axle and suspension as a single unit, this is then added to the body-shell as a unit. This will allow you to build and detail this section before attaching it into the complete and painted body. The front axle is the same with all steering and suspension that can be assembled, painted then added to the of the body-shell and it has the option of having the wheels turned with some steering added. The interior is nice, the seats look good with the stitched pattern copied nicely and handbrake, and gear stick detail along with foot pedals. The doors have window winder, handle and arm rests on the inside and a separate chrome door handle for outside. The convertible has a cream and tan interior, with black and grey inside the coupe. There is no Right-hand drive dashboard, so for a British car you will have to do some work, shouldn’t be too hard as it is a simple flat dashboard. You get the option of a raised roof, or a cover for a folded top on the cabriolet, both have nice textured surfaces and realistic creases and seams on the parts. There are 2 chrome sprues in the kit. The chrome is done well and not over shiny and toy like, but most of us will strip it and re-do with our choice of paint. The gates are well placed so not to be obvious on the finished build if you choose to keep the kit plating. There are 4 rubber tyres (5 in the cabriolet) and the detail is nice on the tread. Both kits come with a decal sheet including some nice small data plates and vin plates, badges and a selection of number plates, the coupe has a simplified sticker set (as part of its ‘Easy-click’ title) but thankfully includes the waterslide also! As expected from Revell they are superbly printed and the dash dials have to be seen close up, you can make out the numbers on the speedometer, and rev-counter. Ill pop my anorak on now, the British plates both are A suffix (so 1963) so unsuitable for the later C series model unless it’s a personal plate, PO shows a West Sussex car. These are a nice pair of Porches, and will be cracking models with a little work. The Coupe is over simplified with non-opening doors and bonnet, while the cabriolet has these features. Only some of the parts needed are there on the coupe? Why not have all the bits, and instructions to give the modeller the option? Nice models but for me, with some work will be cracking big car models. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

Here's my 956 build with shunko decals and scale Motorsport detail up set. My first attempt at super detailing the engine. The kit was the original 956 from 1985

Hi All, I had hoped that this would be my last RFI of 2018, but I ran out of time on New Year's eve... So, it's my first RFI of 2019. This is one of the many Fujimi 911 variants. I have had this in my stash for probably 30 years, and I had partially completed it about 15 years ago, then for whatever reason, I put it away and more or less forgot about it. If you want to see the build thread, go here. Anyway, I finally finished it last night, but because I was tired, I didn't take pictures until this evening. So, here they are: A common complaint that I have heard on this forum is that Fujimi Car kits seems to have a very high ride height. This one doesn't seem too bad. It looks about right to me. This one looks a bit odd as the foreground is completely out of focus and makes the whole car look weird. The camera just focused on the top of the window frame! I might try to get a better picture later. I have just noticed that the rear wheel seems to be protruding from the bodywork on the right side. This is because there is about 2mm of lateral movement on the steel bar that is the axle. With careful positioning, the axle can be centred. What I really need is a spacer on each side, but that would require dismantling the back of the car, which I am not prepared to do. The only other problem that I encountered was that the decals appeared to be made of formica and just about as flexible. My decal softener didn't seem to touch it! Overall, though I am quite pleased with the end result. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Alan.

Hello All, Another one rescued from the dungeon of despondency! I bought this little beastie a long while back, probably over 25 years ago, and it languished it its box for a long time. Again, it was one that I got out more recently, did some more work, then put away again, probably due to the issues with my eyesight. Anyway, too much waffle. This week after I had completed the 288 GTO, I happened upon this box in my garage (The previously mentioned Dungeon of Despondency), and thought "Why not this one?", So, here we are again: The box: Typical Koenig 'over the top' conversion, I think... The body, previously painted with Humbrol Red (Hu 19). I was really pleased with the finish. Applied from a spray can, I think. No great amount of orange-peel to be seen. The nose. Slightly fuzzy. I think the camera moved while I took the picture ... The rear. Again, a really nice finish... The underside. I think that the steering looks a bit strange, but it's the way the model was made. I suspect that it's a normal Fujimi 911 floor pan moulding that has had extras added, so the wheel offsets are a bit 'wide' to fit the wider body-shell, if that makes sense... It sits on all four wheels 'four-square', which is always a bonus. I had to make replacement tail pipes, as one of the 'chromed' ones pinged off into the wild, never to be seen again. A bit of 1/8th inch 'evergreen' styrene tubing, with the end routed out to simulate the tail-pipe and hey-presto, new tail-pipes. So that's where we have got to. A promising start... Thanks for looking, Alan.

Hi all, Thought I'd get something up as a first "look what I done" post. I built this 993 GT2 during March of this year whilst on leave. In all honesty I didn't care much for the Porsche marque but in making this model that changed, strange how making a kit can do that... The metallic panels look a bit metal-flake as I have projector LED room lights and the interior really is in red oxide primer! There was a pic on the net of a rejected chassis in this colour, it's a nice contrast if nothing else. Some in progress shots of the body. Tamiya liquid primer (the one in the glass bottle) smoothed down and masked for the bright steel colour. Blu/White-tac works really well for masking compound curves quickly: 　 Bright steel panels masked for the dark steel colour. Turned out to be pointless as the primer cancelled out the different tones: Steel panels masked for fibreglass colour. Tamiya vinyl tape was used to match the contours, it doesn't stick very well though: 　 Body masked for polyurethane colour. Strange that the 993 GT2 had plastic bumpers, mirrors and engine cover/tail, I thought they were carbon fibre: 　 Masking the wheels. I stripped off the chrome and painted the center magnesium alloy and the hoop aluminium, carefully applied white-tac worked wonders here again: 　 All the best.

This was to have been my first ever car kit, but as some of you will have noticed, the Fujimi Ford GT40 pipped it to the post, despite the Ford being started much, much later. The Porsche was, as I suspected, a bit too ambitious for a ‘first’, but never the less it’s provided me with much valuable experience so I can’t really complain. The biggest headache for me was determining in what order to assemble and paint and if I was doing it again I’d change quite a few of my practices. As the Ford, it’s built ‘out of the box’ as I wanted to keep the experience as simple as possible (simple? yeh, right!) Anyway, it’s been an enjoyable build and here it is for your delectation warts an’ all. As ever, all useful criticism is gratefully accepted. Porsche and Ford together:

Hi all, well it's time to get a new model on the go, fingers crossed I can get my photos up the right way this time. had this for a while now and as I'm waiting for my next project in the post, I thought I may as well got on with this one. so first up the box and instructions; and of course the sprue shots This looks like a nice kerbside kit with plenty of detail. I will be building it out of the box, my next build however won't be... but I have strayed off topic. The chassis has been cleaned up and primed and painted the body colour, I really like this colour.... and after some fiddly masking the engine gets a dash of colour.... Time to get the under carriages little bits prepped and primed Well that's all for this post, fingers crossed the pics display ok for those of you looking in from the PC platform. as always, any and all comments welcomed. Thanks for dropping by, Coops

I finished this 1/43rd Starter kit of the 1970 Martini Porsche 908/02 short tail today. It's built box stock and I used Tamiya acrylics and lacquers along with 2 part auto urethane clear coat. Really enjoyed this simple yet detailed kit.

Ok, So after a long pause, here is the finished build. For those interested the build is here. Thanks for looking in and I welcome any criticisms and comments. Coops