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modelbautony

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    Southport UK
  • Interests
    All racing categories, Alfa, Aston, Mazda

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  1. Yes, I don't think he ever got the praise he deserved, overshadowed by Senna. Being part of a winning team at LeMans has to count for something though. Thank you for your kind comments
  2. Hi Kenneth. From the MFH instruction sheet/s, step 4 - the wiring for parts M14, M59, M57, M51, E18, M15. Many thanks.
  3. Oh that's great, thank you Kenneth. Yes very interested. I am nowhere near that stage but any help would be useful. MFH didn't provide carbon decals for the Lotus undertray, not that it was difficult to cut for it. I have a reasonable amount of reference for the Bentley from the internet but missing info on the cockpit rear wall with wiring etc for control units and any other items. Do you have anything?
  4. wow, praise indeed! thank you. Yes, I did embellish a little, but the detailing with the photo etch, casting of the white metal and moulding of the resin parts is far beyond any other model kit I've had experience with. It was a delight to work on.
  5. Thank you. I used a Decalcas 1980s stencil for the 'Goodyear Eagle' markings, stippling with a cut down paintbrush (so it's stiff), not airbrush or spray, and thick artists acrylic paint. It's easy to wipe off and start again if mistakes are made. I prefer this way to decals as this was how the real markings would have been made. The other markings are created with a drawing pen with China ink/s (Rotring).
  6. "Just a question about the model.... is it me, or is the left front wheel crooked? It looks like it's more angled than the right wheel." Ha! No, it's not crooked. I questioned whether to include that photo. The photos were taken on my phone and the lens is somewhat wide-angle, it has distorted the nearer wheel a bit too much. Probably exaggerated also because I angled the fronts in a little for a 'pose'.
  7. Well, if I'm honest I simply hate (a bit too strong) the 72. Don't know why, it's just... awkward.
  8. Thank you for kind comments. I have to say I have a few MFH in the stash. Just started a Bentley Speed 8 2003 LM. As the Lotus only took me 2 and a half years expect a post around 2028.
  9. My first attempt at a 1/12 scale Model Factory Hiro. This version B is for the Belgian GP at Spa Francorchamps as driven by Johnny Dumfries, car 11, in 1986. I referred to the many 'image' results from searching on the internet and also the Haynes Owners workshop manual. I mostly used Formula 560 Canopy glue (PVA) as adhesive for the white metal parts, I find it is more forgiving over time than cyano. I did though also use Green Stuff World Instant Glue (Gel formula) for some parts. Metal parts were coated with Mr Hobby metal primer, Tamiya Fine surface primer, grey and white, for both resin and metal, where necessary, although in most cases the white metal was merely burnished with brass wire brush. Primer polished with fine grades of both AK Interactive pads and Green Stuff World sponges was followed by coats of Hycote Gloss Black automotive spray can, and polished again with the pads and sponges. MFH decals are excellent. Carbon fibre initially looked a little large in scale but the end result looks ok. I continue to be a little concerned wether to varnish over body decals. I prefer not to but it's still a conflict with bulge (decal beneath varnish) vs step (cut edge of decal on surface). It's mainly because I have to polish the body colour to a high shine, then decal, then gloss varnish and polish again - it can be tedious. In this instance I did gloss black the wings, applied MFH varied Carbon decal as they require under paint/gloss varnish and rub down to high finish/sponsor decals/gloss varnish and rub down to high finish again. Tamiya polishing creams and also final finish with Domus scratch removal creams. I've heard various and varied comments about the quality/fit etc of these expensive kits. I'm used to difficult builds with poor fitting parts - Revell, Heller, even Tamiya - all of them seem to need some degree of 'fettling' to make them representative of an accurate facsimile. Consequently I can only say that this model from 'the Factory' is wonderful; a high degree of detail accuracy and, dare I say it, the fit really is not that bad. Right, enough of that - to the proof:
  10. many thanks Rob
  11. I'm so sorry Pro Mod, I didn't get notification that you had replied to this item. I have had them printed now - just waiting for delivery. I was after 1/12 scale the base of the seats measuring approx 35 mm long.
  12. Thank you Stuart, that's very kind. Tony
  13. Thank you Ben. Have you produced these? They look fabulous. Although They are not quite the version I am interested in which is the 1984 car run at the 1000Km at Silverstone. Many thanks Stuart. Hmm, I might consider buying the eBay item then.
  14. I'm sure someone is much more in the know than myself regarding this. I was initially very excited about the forthcoming release of this model but recently, after some research I was disappointed that it appeared that Italeri has molded this as only representing the Alitalia sponsored vehicle. I had wanted to build a version of one of the many other versions but noticed from my research that the rear wheel arches on the 'Alitalia' (Monte Carlo '77) are not as flared as most of the others. However, on the release images I have just noticed these conflicting images/renderings From the SpotModel site From the Jadlam site Anybody got any inside information?
  15. Hello. Forgive my ignorance and any presumptions I might make on this topic. Some time ago there was a discussion on modelling a body and 3D printing to replace the woeful item produced by Protar (and Italeri) for the Lancia LC2. I've just had notification through eBay of a Tamiya Tamtech body for sale. Admittedly I don't know much about this mold from Tamiya with regard to accuracy, but on the evidence of the few photos available it certainly looks better than the Protar - well, a mold of a dustbin that had been through a crusher and reshaped would look better than that! Would it not be possible to scan this Tamtech mold and go from there? I'm probably being far too optimistic. Just a thought.
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