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Paul H

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    Chichester
  • Interests
    Sailing, naval history, vintage & classic cars

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  1. Not familiar with the Bunnings one, but I've previously tried 'chrome' paint in spray cans & was not impressed. Another vote for Molotow pens! I usually use it for model kits & have been pleased with the results. Also, when I used some to touch up damage to chrome on an old diecast model, the repair was pretty much seamless. I really wasn't expecting it to work so well! BMF can work well too for trim strips, window surrounds etc.
  2. Agreed, however In terms of the gear lever decal, I'd just assume that the Moss box has been ditched in favour of the much better 4.2 one As with the coupe kit, E Types never had overdrive (it didn't fit in the transmission tunnel - except perhaps if converting (auto) 2+2s?), yet Revell have moulded one on the back of the gearbox... It's pretty much the same as the one on Tamiya's Jaguar Mk2 but for that car it is correct for a 3.8 MOD. Unlike the FHC, based on pics I have seen elsewhere, it looks like Revell have got the windscreen right on this OTS though, which is a big relief! The Revell (& also Heller) E Types are all 3.8 from the interior, but the Gunze is a 4.2 & has the different seats etc, although moulded in a rubberised plastic (vinyl?) rather than normal polystyrene.
  3. The Revell Premium Porsche 911 kits from a while back were indeed reboxed Fujimi kits (whereas the BMW 7 & 8 Series and Mercedes SEC in the same series were their own), but these 911 kits are Revell's own new tooling. Comparing the pics of the sprues confirms that they are completely different from both the Fujimi kits, and also the old 1:24 911 Turbo ex Monogram kit that Revell recently reboxed.
  4. Sadly couldn't find one for a Morgan four wheeler - did see one for the pre-war three wheeler though. If it is of any use, I can help with reference pics too for the TC, if you need those as well, as I have built up quite a large reference library for the many model kits that I have but am still yet to build...
  5. Ah - is this TC blueprint any good? https://stelvio.dk/content_images/galleries/mgtc1947sort/TCblueprint.JPG
  6. And pics of the Targa version too: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RV7689
  7. What scale are you wanting? An MG TC would be available in most scales - e.g. Oxford Diecast for 1:72/76, Matchbox for 1:32, and Revell / Monogram for 1:24. Almost certainly something in 1:43 too (possibly several). The Morgan is probably available in 1:72 & 43, but not aware of a 1:32. The only 1:24 that I know of is the Tamiya one, which is scarce as it is long out of production, and has a price tag to match. Could one of those be the basis to work from? Not sure how widespread Morgan's four wheelers were though for what I am assuming is a WW2 setting? The prewar ones were different from the arcetypal Morgan, as they had a flat radiator (the sloped grille wasn't introduced until the '50s) - however the Riley Sprite and also the late '30s Triumph Dolomite both had that style of cowled grille (rather than a conventional radiator) - at a glance or if only visible in the background, either of those may have appeared to be a Morgan? As for the TC, whilst it is actually post war, a scale model of one would still equally represent a period correct TA or TB. (Apologies in advance though if this is all stuff you already know!) As for blueprints, loads of info for both can be found via google images - if not dimensioned, overall length & wheelbase info is all on wikipedia.
  8. There are now pics of the new tool '70s and '80s Porsche 911 impact bumper model on Hannant's website (at the time of writing, no info on Revell's own website): https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RV7688
  9. Watch out for body warping on the Royal - the centre pillar and around the rear wheelarches are also very prone to cracking, which can all make it a pain to get the opening doors lined up. There were also some other fit issues getting the body to sit in the correct place on the chassis that I found when I built one of these about fifteen years ago. However, the end result will be worth it!!
  10. These kits do look really impressive! Based on Eduard's past releases in 1:48 and 1:72, is it likely that they might also release a 1:72 Mk1 & 2?
  11. Also thinking Bedford cab & bonnet / grille. However the front wings are from a Triumph Renown.
  12. Looking good, and great to see a Ferrari in a more unusual colour - this one really suits it. Lovely work on the interior too, and those wheels look so much better dechromed!
  13. Whilst, as already stated, there is now a one piece resin GT body for the re-released Aoshima kit, I think it worth noting that the Finecast MGB, whether roadster or GT, does have full engine bay detail which the Aoshima does not, and I am not aware of any transkits to provide the Aoshima with that. For some modellers, this will probably make it worth the extra money. In additon to kit collectors, given how popular MGBs are, there is also probably quite a few owners of the real car who would want one of these, even if only as memorabilia, and perhaps in addition to the Aoshima one. In contrast, the Finecast Mini Cooper is in direct competition with the fully detailed Tamiya kit which whilst scarce now, has been out for a long time, so I am not surprised that it isn't fetching that much.
  14. During a discussion on here the other week about this kit, I promised to post up some pics of mine. Turned out that I had taken some pics of this and a couple of other older builds back in the summer which I haven't posted yet, so fortunately have some decent images of it since I am unable to take any at the moment due to the weather. This is originally an Italeri kit, but this one is a Revell AG rebox from about 15 years ago. I bought it at the time and probably started it about five years later. However I messed up the bonnet as when gluing it to the hinges, the polystyrene cement created sink marks on the other side in the top surface of the bonnet so it got thrown back in the box for a while before I got around to looking at it again. I think I eventually completed it only a couple of years ago, as I'd lost momentum on it due to the damage. This is also why the bonnet is loose, rather than hinged... In terms of the kit itself, it was relatively easy to build - from memory, I think I had to tweak the engine position in order to get it to sit low enough for the bonnet to fit, but otherwise I don't recall any issues that weren't my own fault! Anyhow, here's the pics.
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