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Mark V

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    Camas, WA USA
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    1/48th WW2 to modern aircraft

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  1. Very nice! I have read that the Italeri Phantoms are a tough build. Well done indeed.
  2. Great job on the repairs. Your 109 looks great. I have the same kit in the stash. Looking forward to seeing the completed model.
  3. It's been a few weeks since my last update. Did some local travel and had to do some work around the house, so less model time than usual. I did get the wings attached and final filling, sanding, rescribing, sanding, polishing, washing done, I hope. I needed a circle scribing template and found one at Sprue Brothers, a USA mail order shop. Since I had to pay shipping I added a few other items, one of which was the Flying Leathernecks F-4E/G/S/J(UK) Belly Strap. It's a vinyl stick-on "decal". There was also a resin option from Sprue Bros, but it was $15 rather than $5 for the vinyl. I figured the resin would be either too thick, or too brittle, plus it was 3x cost. I ran some copies of the belly strap on my printer to try to do a paper version. That's what I put on the Phantom. I wasn't going to bother, but I thought that I would give it a try. If the paper doesn't work I can strip it off and use the vinyl. The vinyl decals are in the zip lock bag. Printed copies are the black/white papers to the left above. I thought it would be easier to cut out the paper versions if the contrast was high on the page. But as you can see, it is rather stark on the kit. I may paint over them with a brush to lighten them up. I did glue them down with the dark side down, but when they got wet, the printer ink bled through. Primer will show how it looks. I also finished the seats. Aires resin with PE belts. I used that same set on my previous FGR2. Like I said then, the resin is excellent, the belts are a pain. I am leaving on Friday for a 5000+ mile road trip with the wife from Washington state to the St. Louis, Missouri area. I would rather fly, but airline prices are insanely high this summer. I refuse to pay extorsion level prices for no guarantee of service. By driving, we can stop along the way and visit friends and family. We plan on being away for 2 weeks minimum. If we drive back the "southern route" through Phoenix to visit friends and family, we may head over to Disneyland for a couple of days. My wife is a Disney fanatic. The price I have to pay, and it's a big price tag, for her going to air museums with me. At least gas prices are coming down... Hopefully my next update will have the basic camo paint applied - the 3 grays for a Falklands jet.
  4. Status this evening, Monday 11 July. After completing painting on the Aires cockpit, I got the fuselage halves together. This was followed by adding the end pieces (radome and drag chute door}, along with the big box antenna on the top of the vertical fin. In parallel I painted the insides of the intakes then assembled them. They were also added to the fuselage. I went ahead and smeared some Tamiya gray putty on the seams since I'm pretty sure they will need a bit of filler. There were small gaps at the upper sides of the cockpit that I also smeared some putty into. I wiped off the excess putty with a "cleaning cotton swab", a dense conical tipped swab, dipped in lacquer thinner. I'll let that sit for a while since I have to go out of town for a couple of days. When I get back I'll start the sand, wash, prime, fill, repeat cycle. And rescribing some of the lost panel lines. Here is the completed cockpit. On the real jet, the paint on the floor gets rapidly worn through by the aircrew boots. First to the greenish primer, then to bare metal. The forward console is not glued in yet. I'll get that secured after the wings are on and all seams cleaned up. Which reminds me, I did not glue the cockpit into the fuselage. The fit is so tight it did not require glue to hold it in place. Sorry, I didn't know the picture would be so big... The wings are ready to go on, but I think I'll clean up the fuselage first. Then I can concentrate on the wing to fuselage forward underside seam. After a dry fit it looks like some sheet plastic shims will be required. Typical for Hasegawa Phantoms I think. A couple of side notes: Before I installed the intakes, I sprayed some Camouflage Grey on the back of the intakes and the fuselage sides. It's hard to spray down in there and get an even coat after it's assembled. The primer will cover up some of it, but primer overspray is easily covered. It's all grey anyway. I thought the Aires Spey engine nozzles were the later, correctly sized, set. Wrong. The kit nozzles are 2cm diameter. The Aires nozzles are 1.8cm. Plus the extended afterburner cans interfere with the upper engine cooling bay boxes. And as another issue, the external nozzle rings are a butt joint to the AB tubes. There is no lip to match up to the fuselage, so would require thinning the fuselage edge to a razor thickness to not have a step to the nozzle. Like the real jet, but the metal there isn't what holds the engine nozzle in place. With the size issue and installation problems, I will use the kit engine nozzles. Hopefully the next update will have the wings attached and the jet ready for paint. Thanks for your support, likes, and comments. I hope my experiences help someone else with their build.
  5. That’s a bummer about the wings. Some extra work indeed. There should be other good reference pictures on the web to guide you. Looking at the sprue shots, the wrong ECM pod for Spangdahlem jets is included. Spang jets had the ALQ-131 pod. Always carried in the left forward AIM-7 missile well. The lighting for the Eduard instrument panels looks like a fun idea. Harder with resin I would guess. For wingtip lights and such you use fiber optic lines?
  6. Agree with the above replies. Check out my WiP as I’m dealing with an Aires FGR.2 cockpit now. I just glued the fuselage halves together a couple of hours ago
  7. Sweet, another Phantom! Looking forward to watching your progress.
  8. OK, after a week since the last update I found my thread back near the bottom of page 5. Lots of activity on BM, but that's a good thing! So many great builds in progress. I got the Aires cockpit mostly painted, just a little bit left to touch up and scuff up. The Genessis step-by-step mentioned coating the back of the instrument film sheet in white to highlight the dials. It does make a difference (better) than painting the resin backing panel white and gluing over it, I think. Here are the cockpit parts waiting for assembly. I dry fit the rear IP, radar set (stowed), front IP/glareshield and right side wall. The parts look good and paint up fairly easily. I started painting the seats too. There are 8 colors on it so far. Now to start on the details. Later the PE belts. Not the fun part. While the cockpit parts were drying, I painted a few other airframe parts and finished the missiles. The missile bodies are all the same color, just depending on how they are angled to the camera, the color looks a little different. The "brown" stripes on the Skyflash are from the Revell FGR2 decal set. They look a little orange, but not enough to do it over. Next up will be to put the cockpit together and get the fuselage together. Once that's done the wings are ready to go on.
  9. That looks great. I, too, had several hours in 150s and 172s. I have read that this kit, like the other 1/48th civilian light aircraft kits (Minicraft?) were difficult. Yours looks great! Thank you for posting it.
  10. I really like the idea of multiple different airframes on a decal sheet, that follow a theme. I have so many decal sets that I do one model then have the rest of the sheet sitting in the spares box for years. With the 23 Squadron history, like you, I can do several different aircraft from the one sheet. So far I have only completed the Mosquito (Tamiya). With the previous Phantom I used a different decal set, bits from multiple sets actually, to do the green/gray camo jet. I have the Lightning Mk6, a Tornado ADV, Blenheim, and A-20 Havoc/Boston in the stash. I would love to get a Javelin but unless I happen across a really low price, I have plenty of kits to keep me busy for years. Thanks for following along.
  11. Great job on this one! If that’s the Hataka Gunship Gray straight from the bottle, it looks right on. I like it.
  12. I finally got the Aires cockpit to sit within the fuselage with the nose gear well underneath. The left forward sidewall sits just a bit high but should be a fairly simple trim to force it into place. I disassembled the cockpit resin parts and gave everything a good wash using a toothbrush and dish soap. After everything dried overnight I sprayed primer to get ready for painting the cockpit and to check the other subassemblies; tanks, gun pod, radome, etc; for areas that require further attention. The gun pod had a couple of sink marks that are filled with white correction fluid. I'll sand it down after the filler dries. Here is an inboard wing pylon with the AN/ALE-40 chaff and flare dispensers added. These are resin pieces that came with the True Details USAF Pylons. The flare dispensers are on the outboard side of the pylon and angle down. Some minor clean up required, but they will be mostly out of view on the completed model. I painted up about 100 missiles several weeks ago because I hate painting missiles at the end of the build. I collected the missiles from several kits and painted the lot - AIM-7/9. AMRAAM, HARM, Meteor, etc. I had planned ahead for this build so a set of Skyflash and AIM-9Ls are ready for decals. Skyflash decals from the Revell FGR.2 kit. AIM-9L decals from two Tamiya F-16C kits. The missile bodies are not as dark IRL as they are in the photo. Bad lighting I guess? Last thing today is some work on the kit intakes. The back sides of the vari-ramps need to be filled in since they are visible when installed. Also each intake has 4 ejector pin marks on the interior. Even though the intakes are not full trunks, what interior there is, is visible (without intake covers) and the marks are easy to fix. I'll probably spend the next several days on the cockpits and seats. Plus get the missiles decaled and the other parts cleaned up as required. Thanks for following along.
  13. Rob, Thanks for the reminder on wing colors. I remember reading the threads where you guys that have experience with the Phantoms remember that the colors were not distinctly different. My plan is to lighten the MSG to more closely match the Barley Gray. I’ll add some BG to the MSG to lighten it some. I have a Hataka lacquer paint set that has all three colors. I like Hataka paints so it should look good in the end. Fingers crossed.
  14. Christer, Yes, I have read older posts about new vs. older engine nozzle sizes. Fortunately I have the newer, correctly sized nozzles. They are an improvement on the kit parts externally as well as internally. So that’s a plus. The cockpit is another problem. I finally got it to fit, barely. Photos tomorrow.
  15. Hi Rob, The True Details resin pylons sets were part of the old Squadron Shop line in the USA. I bought several sets for my Hasegawa 1/48 USAF F-4E and G kits. Depending on when the sets were cast, the packaging changed. Also the resin is either gray or cream colored. The set number and parts are the same for both. I used the inboard pylons on an F-4D kit that I built several years ago, but did not use the ALE-40 bits. I put a quick, very poor, wash on one set to try to highlight the details. It's not too bad. The clean set shows a chip out of one of the parts. It's a flare adapter piece, so the flare box will mostly cover up the chip. I will use these parts on the FGR.2. I don't know if the US Navy and RAF pylon sets, the pointy ones, have the ALE-40 parts included. I couldn't find a decent photo or diagram of the parts included.
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