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Jackson Duvalier

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    Behind you, HOT!

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  1. Say no more! High-five to your wife, I like her style. I've an HP-CS that is my first-love Japanese airbrush, and she's sprayed much freehand camouflage, and everything else really for the past five years or so, a huge step up from the Aztek I had previously. Excellent equipment, the Iwata, still works well despite her somewhat ham-fisted operator. I recently impulse-purchased a GSI-Creos Procon Boy 0.2mm. It's almost a carbon copy of an Iwata HP, but with more finesse and improved fine control. I was surprised how much less fatiguing it makes my freehand-heavy style of painting. You could ask for one for Christmas, surely you deserve it? The Focke-Wulf is looking lovely with the decals on. I see what you mean with the Hasegawa off-white on the cowl emblem, but it doesn't look too jarring. The opacity of that ink over the stark black/white cowl stripes is impressive.
  2. I was going to ask about that. Great job fixing up the Revell Thunderbolt, she looks splendid after the orthodonture and belly tuck. Your modelling habits sound like mine, sometimes things have to marinate for a while.
  3. I admire those fine lines you've accomplished. What sort of airbrush do you use?
  4. The paintwork is coming right along! Just saw you were even off on this adventure. Looks like a decent, easy to work with kit. I'm slowly learning to appreciate pre-painted and masked stripes; my habitual method is to 1) apply factory paint, 2) mask and paint unit markings and field-applied livery. My most recent "completion" is a P-38J with full invasion stripes. I toyed with the idea of painting booms and wings separately to ease the masking, but in a fit of motivation wound up assembling the whole before painting. It made more sense in that case to apply and mask off the wing stripes before the colour coats, and then apply the boom stripes after. I really ought to post an RFI or three but the laziness gets in the way. I know that feel. Betrayal hurts. You expect it from AZ, but Hasegawa?
  5. Lately I've been mixing lead shot into a Blu Tac matrix. Easy to stuff into any available nooks and/or crannies. If it results in a chemical reaction in twenty years or so, I'll be sure to report back.
  6. I take it you've not seen the Lindberg kit? Lovely model and an informative build report; thanks for sharing, Seán.
  7. Good to see the progress, Sam. Don't know how I missed last week's discussion vis-a-vis little marker lights and how they can be replicated. I agree with Navy Bird via Stew Dapple on the tiniest coloured ones. A tiny, precise drop of silver paint or Molotow chrome overpainted with the appropriate Tamiya clear colour works just fine. That trick doesn't work well on white lights (looks like an out-of-place chromed doodad; jarring, spoils the illusion), or on moulded-in lights that got sanded away in construction. For those cases I've been experimenting with UV-setting resin glue, Bondic is the brand I have. On a non-stick backing paper salvaged from a vinyl sticker, I make a bunch of tiny dots shaped as appropriate, then set them with the UV light. Suitable candidates are then coloured with Tamiya clear, and the best of the lot get stuck to the model. PVA works well, but on a matte-finish model matte acrylic also works and saves touch-ups. I used this method used to reinstate the moulded-in wingtip lights on my AVG Curtiss Hawk. I've never tried using hot clear sprue in a photo etch die as Elger mentioned above, I've no idea how to clean up a plastic part so tiny and un-hold-on-to-able. The results look great but I don't know how I'd get there.
  8. Airfix make an AVG P-40 kit (well, a Hawk 81-A-3, technically), too! Welcome to the fun-filled world of modelling-- how did Procopius entice you into this madness?
  9. Absolutely. But the mood usually returns. Good to see you back!
  10. Do gravestone rubbings of the top of the relevant pylon castings; make masks from them?
  11. Motor tool, usually ends in tears. I was unfamiliar with this T-33 with Ventura tail, leave it to you, Ed.
  12. Back on the farm we usedta' use Tamiya XF-71 Cockpit Green as a preshade and then lighten whatever was left in the cup with increasing amounts of XF-12 J.N. Grey, for colour coats and highlights. It was what we had, and good enough for me, it was. And frugal on the paint. (Deep Thought: It seems that out of all my paints, the two Japanese-specific colours I have in stock are solely used to replicate a British colour.)
  13. That colour scheme is the classic A-10 look, IMHO. The bluish darker green is almost the same value as the grey. The lighter and darker olives almost look like variations on Interior Green. A variation on micro-macro camouflage theory or just a cool paint scheme? The non-present pylons are an interesting variation. Their grease shadows will be an interesting modelling challenge. Will that be a mask-and-airbrush effort? (I just realised I used the word "variation" in three consecutive sentences, with no irony to leaven the mix. My apologies.)
  14. Glad you got the alignment sorted, looks like the only thing out of square is the late interloper. Also an evocative and sensitively rendered post-mortem photo, Bill. Album cover material for sure. Have you seen this item? Makes for jolly sport wherever flies are to be found.
  15. If the OEM filler is blue and the repair filler is red one could tell exactly which layers one was sanding, which might be useful. I've used layered primers of different colours to find high/low spots for example.
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