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Ranger I Pct 4

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About Ranger I Pct 4

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    Newbie
  • Birthday 12/21/1964

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    Male
  • Location
    Houston, Texas

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  1. Thanks, guys. It does seem to be tedious and requires a lot of practice. I might give it a try on some extra styrene, but then again, possibly use post shading techniques to not mess up. Y'all helped me out a lot. Thank you!
  2. I have pushed the B-17G to the side for a moment ever since I got an Eduard Focke — Wulf Fw 190A -8 1/48. This has proved to be a really fun build. My dilemma is; I do not understand pre shading if the lines will eventually be covered up by paint it just seems like this might be an unnecessary step. I have watched so many videos about this process and each video shows the lines being covered. So, if I were to understand the purpose and tried using it on a stealth like a 117, would it be a waste to apply it on a black fuselage? I don’t want to come off sounding like a jerk, I am confused about this topic and looking for the benefits on why and how this works when the lines get covered up. Thanks!
  3. Aircraft could not (and still not) have been perfect all the time. Covering whatever came their way with paint that was within the same color scheme. In fact my buddy who flew Blackhawks in Iraq had four different black color on his bird. I decided to do the same on my Revell B-17G. At first it was to cover up my salt chipping fiasco. I used an olive drab to cover up, what looked like a sneeze from Silver Surfer, and to try out my new air brush. Have any of y'all done this using different shades to give it a more "workhorse" look? I'll post a picture later today. Looking for honest feedback I know I can count on y'all.
  4. Thanks Rob. I'll give it a go.
  5. I hope someone can help me. I over did it on the salt chipping effect and now I'm not sure how to reverse it or cover it up. I first painted a wing with chrome silver then I misted it with water then sprinkled salt over the wing. Yesterday I painted the wing with olive drab. This morning I knocked off the salt. While the effect work great, it is just too much and looks more deliberate than naturally occurring. My only thought is to "patch" the areas with a different green. I am always open to any and all suggestions. Thanks, Brothers.
  6. Very nice work and attention to detail! Can't wait to see it finished. Back in 1969, I was 5, we had a summer place 90 miles west of San Antonio, that is where Lackland Air Force base is. Anyway, I would see these jets flying low altitude and a very distinctive sound. I also wear an MIA bracelet. Col. Peter Joseph Stewart. Shot down in 1966 backseat in an F-4J then became a POW. His remains have recently been found and he has come home February 2019. I still wear the bracelet.
  7. dnl42. Yes the nail polish remover was fine. I found that info on a video, it just needs to be used before the putty dries. I usually swipe my wife's old nail tools; buffers, files, etc. I also bought a set of files at a hardware store called Harbor Freight. So, the buffer, I guess is used after I sand down the putty?
  8. Doom3r, that sounds great, since I gauged a large divot out of the number 3 engine. I wish I had see n this post first instead I filled it in with Tamiya basic putty. I used nail polish remover to clean the edges out and around the filled area. Now, I'll hope for the best when I start to sand it down.
  9. Years ago I built a larger scale (I cannot remember the scale) AC‐130 (Spooky) Gunship and my favorite jet of all time the A-6 Intruder both of which needed weighted nose. I would just melt down a few lead fishing weights, scribe the date into it and plop it in the nose. I still have the Intruder but, lost the Spooky. I'll look for the liquid gravity for future builds. These tips and tricks are great. Please keep 'em coming.
  10. Corsairfoxfouruncle and dnl42 thanks so much for this invaluable information! I really appreciate how to use the Tamiya (I have never used it before) and what to use and what to avoid. My last build was the 1:96 USS Constitution and I was using the testors liquid cement. That build only had the hull and 2nd deck with all of the cannons and rope and officer's quarters and that is as far as I got. It has since been shelved. Oh... I might get it back out someday. Now, it's back to the B-17 with confidence! Thanks again guys!!!
  11. It has been a year since I started on my B-17G. I guess the reason it's taken so long is because I'm a little apprehensive on putting the parts together and not being successful in sealing up the gaps especially on the fuselage. I have the following: Loctite super glue gel, Tamiya thin cement, and the 'ol standard Testors model glue and I also have a tube of Tamiya putty basic type and E6000. I have heard Zap A Gap here and there a few times in blogs and videos. I might be wrong but, what is Z-A-G, is it a CA-type glue, is it a magic solution that will make gaps disappear (using Harry Potter's wand of course)? Would I benefit from having it or is what I have good enough? Thanks, y'all!
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