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Flying Badger

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About Flying Badger

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    Yorkshire, England

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  1. a piece of very fine ladies tights? (stockings) Get the thinnest you can find and then cut out the square before dry brushing it with metallic colour paint or alternatively if you get black stockings then dry brush it with the silver detailing stuff that looks like womens makup... This stuff:
  2. Hi, been following your build, looks great so far.... If you are going to use alclad then there are a few things to bear in mind (and apologies if you already know this).... Firstly its a sod to mask over and get to stay... I find it tends to lift no matter how low tack you make your masking tape. So if you have to paint the wings and the underside in different colours.... paint the non-alclad bits first and leave the underside Alclad 'til last. That and use a good sealing layer of kleer or some such over it to help stop it sticking to the masking tape so much. Secondly... if you are going for the polished alu look on your undersides, remember that each panel might be a slightly different shade - and the best way to get that is to mask off panels and pre-shade them with a variety of black, grey and white shades before you apply the layer of alclad. It needs to be quite subtle but it will look far better than a uniform colour, and will be great if you use some grey and other colour washes to dirty up the polished alu (I know there is the whole debate about panel washes etc. on airliners but I'm in the "It gets used it gets dirty so washes are realistic" camp on that one anyway) I used pre-shading for alclad on my Mirage F1C last year: I was a bit heavy handed with the Alclad and put too thick a layer on so lost a bit of the variation.... but it still looked good. FB
  3. I have a 1/2 built Aircraft in miniature 1:72 scale Bleriot XI.... its a photoetch build and so far its pretty good. www.aim72.co.uk FB
  4. Enjoying this immensely.. Hey Hendie... I'm proposing a total scratch (scrapheap challenge) group build for next year.... fancy having a go? FB
  5. I'm a long standing member of BM and I've been wanting to propose a sort of group build for a long time now, but I don't know how or where to propose one.... Why the "sort of"? Well unlike other group builds where the theme is a single type or an event in history (or even a nation like the French GB I enjoyed last year) my idea is a scratch build challenge.... or more accurately a scrap heap / dustbin challenge! Suggested rules: 1. Any genre, any subject, in any scale 2. No kits or bought resin, metal or PE aftermarket parts originally intended for your subject matter (i.e. if you're scratching a spitfire then you can't use any kit or aftermarket part originally intended for a spitfire... adapting something from an Me109 is fine!) 3. You can only use material that is being thrown away.... and no "throwing away" a kit or part so you can use it! ;-) 4. Anything that is being disposed of in your domestic or work rubbish / recycling is fair game 5. Modelling tools, paint, decals, glues etc. are allowed 6. suggested prize categories: a. Scratch Genius b. Scratch God c. Scratch Virgin qualification for categories: a. Scratch Genius: Open to any entry. Entries can use a small percentage of spare parts from your random bits box (we all have one) as well as plasticard (subject to also meeting rule 2) b. Scratch God: Open to any entry. Entries may not use any spare bits of any sort, no plasticard or other modelling related raw material! (so rule 2 doesn't apply as you can't use any spares anyway).... (possible exception being raw brass for DIY photoetch - up for negotiation on this one) c. Scratch Virgin: Open to entries only from those modellers who've never scratchbuilt anything more than the odd small addition to a model before. Entries in this category can also be entered in one of the other two categories. I'm open to other rule suggestions or alterations - and if there are any other prize categories people can think of? This GB sounds HARD.... but its not! Its actually about ingenuity which BM has in spades! For example the no plasticard rule in the Scratch God category..... no problem, butter, margarine or soft spreadable cheese containers are all plasticard - cut the flat bits of the tops, bottoms and sides off and use as required! I'm wanting to encourage people to have a go at scratchbuilding, and to encourage those who do scratchbuild to share ideas and get us all innovating and coming up with new ideas. It would need to be a long running GB to give people (especially scratch virgins) time to get something done. So how do I go about proposing a GB and how do I get it on the yearly vote? Andy.
  6. Finally got around to taking to some decal paper into work today and printing my custom decals on the works high quality inkjet. Here they are drying after a coat of clear lacquer to seal them: I managed to be a muppet and not check what paper settings I had in the print options so ended up with streaks and smears because the print was on high quality premium glossy so put a lot more ink on than normal. Bugger! Fortunately I had designed the decals to have every one of the Yellowjacks aircraft I can prove they flew and enough for 2 examples of each one (so that's 14 models worth!). My plan was to use this as a test run but it seems the ones for the particular aircraft I am making came out ok without smears (XR992) so I should be OK to use those ones once the lacquer dries.... So more once they are dry and applied to the model. FB
  7. The best version I've seen so far is to use computer ribbon cable cut across the cable at the right length for the ammunition.... the ribbed pattern of the ribbon cable looks like ammunition belts and it is slightly flexible so is easy to position - also being a plastic coating it can be painted. This stuff: I know you can buy it up to 50 wires wide (50way IDC ribbon cable) but other widths might be enough. The only issue is if it will work in the scale you are working in. Worth a look. FB
  8. Hi Bill, thanks. Are you sure? I've not printed them yet so its no disaster so thanks for the heads up! Do you have a source for the serial colour for the original yellowjacks? I know airfix decals on their 1/72 kit are blue but I assumed this was based on the G-MOUR aircraft that's doing displays at the moment which has blue markings (I assumed this was due to its engineering sponsor - who's corporate colour is blue)... but all the other RAF Valley 4FTS gnat aircraft have black serials so I assumed it was an error on airfix's part. Happy to be wrong and I can easily change the colour if you are sure. FB
  9. A bit more progress today..... Got all the kit decals on that I'm using: (the canopy, nose equipment bay and seats aren't glued in place yet) Just a few more little jobs to do on this before I get to panel washes etc. Some touching up in the cockpit, then a few final parts still to glue on (mainly gear doors), paint the wing tip light glass and then give it all a coat of Kleer to seal it. But first I need some custom decals.... so I spent an hour designing them and getting the scales and fonts right: The Black tail version is Flight Lieutenant Lee Jones's (after whose call sign the yellowjacks were named) aircraft (XR992). If I'd left the tail yellow I could have done one of the others (XR986, XR991, XR993 or XR994) Except the custom serials (1/48 versions of the RAF post war font 8 and 16 inch serials) there are also some replacement decals for sling and jack point (as the originals had yellow parts to the decal so wouldn't show up), a "92" for the nose gear door and "AVTUR" decals that I have a photo of to replace the kit number 62 or 71 decals) But my home printer is a bit crap so I'm saving the printing of those until I get to work tomorrow where our printer is a bit more reliable (and higher resolution!) More soon..
  10. Hi Les... ah yes I forgot you were down under! I guess Tomps delivery charges might be a tad heavy!
  11. I agree... I make my resin masters using 3D design and 3D printing at the moment and its a great way to produce accurate parts - no longer having to carve and then sand masters then check sand a bit more then re-check size until you get the correct dimensions... however, I don't put all my detailing on the 3D print - panel lines etc. I prefer to work on a first resin cast master: I use the 3D print to get the sizes etc. then make a mould and cast from it, then use this as my ultimate master, engraving panel lines and removing any 3D printing anomalies (layer lines etc), sometimes adding very fine surface details with small home made PE inserts if needed and also getting the surface finish I want before re-moulding the "edited" resin cast to get my production master mould.... So far I have about 65% of the aircraft kit I'm designing ready this way. It's slow but the quality of the results is really good. I love the 3D printed figures you have done. I assume they are printed by SLA? FB
  12. Les, I use www.tomps.com for moulding supplies. I'd be interested in other suppliers if you want to share. ;-) FB
  13. Incidentally, whilst the current aircraft wearing the fake serial XR992 (G-MOUR) has very few decals on her I am rather assuming that back when the real yellowjack aircraft flew they the normal set of decals and warning signs. I can't for any reason believe that the aircraft maintenance engineers at No 4. Flying Training School at RAF Valley decided not to bother with them on these aircraft whilst at the same time ensuring all the other gnats they maintained for the training school did get a full set of decals/placards etc. The few images I have of the aircraft from the 60s are grainy and black and white so hard to see small details, so I'm going with a lot of the small "jack here", "No step" or "don't put your finger in this hole you'll get it stuck you muppet" (you know the maintenance engineers would have painted one if they could get away with it!) placards that are liberally scattered over all such aircraft. Some of the decals (like the red or black "Keep off" warning lines on the upper trailing edge of the wings) are big enough that I'd have seen them even in the poor quality images from the 60s so I assume they were left off for aesthetic reasons. FB
  14. I'm slowly adding the decals: You may also notice the seats are done and I've hand painted the equipment boxes in the nose equipment bay. So much for the "fast build" bit in the title! FB
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