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Flying Badger

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    Yorkshire, England

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  1. ¿De donde eres/ donde vives Pajarito? Tu perfil dice "Capital Federal" pero.... ¿Es lo mismo que Buenos Aires? ¿por qué? no venden Airfix en Argentina? Maldición, esto no bien!
  2. Yes the most recent re-release was Italeri in 2017. although not with XE597 as an option on the decals.
  3. Hi, Pajarito, Strange isn't it. It's definitely the Academy moulds and the decals it had on match those from the original #2164 Academy kit but the blue plastic doesn't match the later production examples I can see online. I assume it was an early pull from that mould? I had wondered initially if it was an Italeri version (using Academy's moulds) as I've had those in weird colour plastic, but the decals don't match and by the 2000s when Italeri released their boxing of this kit they'd settled on their standard slightly green tinted (at least to my eyes) grey plastic I even looked up the 1950s/60s Lindberg kit in case it was a really old model (Lindberg seem to have used a variety of colours of plastic).... but the part designs are totally different which ruled those out. So far I haven't got around to looking at the noses on both kits. I'm converting it to a Fleet Air Arm PR.11 or GA.11 which had either a camera or the Harley light in the nose. The airfix F4 kit does have both the standard nose and the Harley light nose options I believe (I was going to scratch mine just for fun), so I'll get the sprue out and take some side by side comparison shots if I can and post them here.
  4. Time to correct the intake tunnel. First up some bracing on the original parts: Nothing too refined as it will never be seen, forward brace holds the parts at exactly the right distance to mate up with the fuselage halves. Then took a razor saw to the original part to remove some of the length and then bend them inwards and glue them to the brace. (I also had to cut the tube shape to let the plastic bend): Filler is on and drying. Now need to extend the other tunnel parts to fill the gap to the revised shape center bit. Masking tape and pen to get a template: All four parts done. waiting for the filler to dry ready to do some more sanding until it's all smooth. I need to scratch build some splitter plates that are better than the clumsy kit versions (which I removed early on).
  5. In my coffee break yesterday I started looking up paint colours, and I could do with some help.... I've settled on a PR.11 / GA.11 of the Fleet Air Arm in their Grey and White Scheme, probably with the white ventral spine. Looking up the instructions for the nearest FAA model kit I have (Sea Harrier FRS-1) that has the colours as satin white underneath and Humbrol 123 Extra Dark Sea Grey on top. The white is fairly obvious and not difficult but the EDSG is the issue I am uncertain of... I found this old thread from 2013 discussing EDSG: Nick's contribution is particularly interesting: It seems Humbrol 123 is FS36118 and too light perhaps? Looking up FS26118 and the nearest match to the paints I tend to use is Tamiya XF-18 Medium Blue. Anyone offer any insight into if this is right or not? On a related note, does anyone know if the Fleet Air Arm painted their cockpits any different to the original F4/F6's that they converted to Navy use? I assume they'd not bother changing them? Thanks in advance
  6. Thats spot on. Really great job with the chipping very realistic looking for a battle hardened airframe. Chapeau!
  7. Lovelly build. Great job on the wing fold and the colour transition blends are really nicely done too.
  8. Ping... I'm told was slang for an AZDIC (sonar) operator as back then (early 1940s) it made a ping noise. But I'm not sure if that's filtered through family retelling etc. although I did once hear a contemporary RN sailor also refer to them as "pings".
  9. Various additional extras arrived this week. First up is a complete Airfix F4 kit from ebay I bought for the reference material as well as duplicating (Silicane mould and cast resin) some minor parts for my build. I offered up the Academy fuselage half to see what the differences were: As expected the tail blister is too long by a fair way. Also the rear bulkhead of the cockpit is c.2.3mm too far aft (The glare shield, tail, and major panel lines and structures line up): From the above you can probably tell that I'm going for a resin cockpit.... but it is for the Airfix kit and will need a little faffing to get it in place correctly. Some dry fitting allowed me to trim off the old glare shield and trim down the cockpit rear bulkhead to get an initial fit for the resing pit: But something wasn't right.... took me a bit to realise the pit was too low and the top of the side walls was actually the canopy slide rail and should stick up above the cockpit edges! And getting the pit to sit slightly higher is essential to get the resin forward gear well to fit because as you can tell from the following image, there is not a lot of room in there!: I've cut the kit forward gear well out of the gun pack part and then reattached them to the main fuselage halves: Elsewhere there is some general construction going on: Resin gear wells for the main gear in each wing root - these are CA glued on the outside to the upper wing half. Once they are primed, painted and detailed I'll mask them and then add the lower wing halves (and correct the badly positioned dogs tooth leading edge). I've also removed the spent cartride pods for the forward gunpack. The RN PR.11 or GA.11 aircraft don't use the gun pack so off they came, the underlying panel lines etc will get cleaned up when it's rescribed later as necessary. The intakes have been cleaned up and glued together and then hit up with some perfect plastic putty filler ready for sanding: I'm not happy with the medial wall of the intake tunnel (on the far left of that image) as it's change of direction is too abrupt - might see if I can fix it. Thats all for this one today.... more later.
  10. Been silently lurking on this WIP for a while now... really enjoying an enthralling scratch build so far. Keep up the inspiring work
  11. I'm almost decided on building it as a PR.11 / GA.11 and ideally I would like to build something from 738 NAS (Mainly because I like the white pegasus silhouette badge on the nose). I'm struggling however to find decals.... both for the white pegasus but more generally for the white serial numbers of the Fleet Air Arm - Xtradecal did a decal sheet that is ideal (X48045) but nowhere has it in stock
  12. Hi @speedfour thanks for the info. I tend to use CA glue but I have made myself a small precision applicator: Get a sewing needle. Cut or grind down the eye end until its no longer an eye but a two pronged fork: Then push the sharp end of the needle into a bit of sprue as a handle (Heating the needle tip helps push it in easily). The little fork holds CA glue like loctite easily and lets you apply tiny amounts where needed. Need to spread a larger amount? Easy, make one from a needle with a bigger eye. Works great. When it gets clogged up with dry CA glue then you just hold it under a flame (cigarette lighter) and it burns off leaving no residue. Wait a few seconds for it to cool and you are good to go again. I find I can't keep CA glue for more than a few months unless I put it in the fridge when I'm not using it - that slows it going bad especially in the summer when it's warm... I guess thats and issue for you too as it will be fairly warm where you are for parts of the year. I have a little glass thing that I use to hold drops of CA glue from which I load up the sewing needle applicator: Got a small box of them when I was clearing out an old laboratory at work (they were going in the skip otherwise). You're in Italy right? Message me with your address and I'll post one to you... Happy Christmas! Badger
  13. Wow! That looks excellent. The interior is so good I can smell that leather from here!
  14. Great looking piece. Particularly the very convincing mud and grime splatter underneath.
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