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pheonix

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pheonix last won the day on December 28 2017

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About pheonix

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  1. Those ribs look good with a nice even spacing. Will you sand them gently to take the edges off? P
  2. That is very impressive. What a tiny cockpit - I bet the pilot did not suffer from claustrophobia! P
  3. Absolutely stunning - and that is only with the primer!! The tidying up that you still have to do is truly minimal considering the number of changes made: a real tribute to your skill. But isn't it a b.....r when the primer reveals all that we didn't really want to see? Yews are in churchyards because most (all?) churches are on pagan religious sites. The yew was the death tree in all European countries before the Christian era - it was sacred to Hecate in Greek mythology for example, (I could quote, but will not, many examples from other European mythologies)- and its continued association with death (ie in graveyards) is clearly a continuation of these very old belief systems. It is not poisonous to horses and cattle which can nibble the leaves. The seeds are very poisonous, but not the red fruit, which can be eaten if the seed is removed first. P
  4. Evening All, Many thanks to all who have dropped by and especially to Greg, Dennis, Stuart, Jon and Ian for leaving your positive comments. Painting and decorating is almost complete now: there is more to do as I add pieces here and there but they will be done when the correct time arises - in the meantime the main components are finished. The hull was painted with oils - burnt siennsa with a small amount of raw sienna, and the whole dried for three days in a warm airing cupboard. Then two thin coats of Revell clear orange varnish completed that part. The wings were painted with many coats of Revell white with a small amount of Humbrol 103 linen. I mix the paints with water until they have the consistency of milk and draw the brush in alternate directions across the wing and along the wing with each coat. This ensures an even coating each time - the last coat is always in the direction of airflow - ie from front to back. The red/white wing, tail and rudder bands were matt Humbrol enamels (34 and 60). The transfers were printed for me by Arctic Decals: I could have printed the crosses but not the numerals so I gave an order for both and can say that I am very pleased indeed with both the quality of the transfers and the very prompt service. I will definitely be using them again: So the model parts now look like this from the top: and this from under: From the sides: The cross on the nose was hand painted as I could not think of a way of making a transfer(s) that would fit. I have also been working on the engine while paint has been drying and this is now nearly complete - I may add a couple of small items to the sides when it is fixed to the platform on the model as they are difficult to fit and there is a real risk that they will be knocked off: That is all for now. More updates when I have the engine assembly on the fuselage. Thanks for looking. P
  5. Super details which make the difference between a good model and an exceptional one. This is decidedly an excellent one. P
  6. Just seen this Adrian. I have no doubt at all that you will be able to pull this one off - but whether it will be by the end of this GB might be a little more in doubt given the huge amount of work involved. I will be following along though. P
  7. An excellent build: the figures really give it character. One for the display cabinet and one to be proud of. P
  8. That is a fine piece of scratch building there with all those cylinder cowls: I hope that you can find them all! P
  9. All good ideas are simple but usually are arrived at by a crab-wise action.... Very good representation - as Matt has stated, a marvellous idea. P
  10. I think that I posted the completed dio in RFI but I also posted photos here: This was not posted in the GB at the time because I only completed it some months after the GB finished. P
  11. I not only remember the articles (there were 2), I actually did hand paint the lozenge patterns on an Airfix Albatros a few years after the article was published. I mixed many of the colours from Humbrol paints too. Yes it could be done.......
  12. That looks really good - I am also considering putting my Hansa-Brandenburg on a base too, but less comples than the one I built for the Dornier in the previous GB. P
  13. The oil cooler idea is really good. simple but effective - or to put it another way, really good scratch building! I agree that the rear edge of the wing is straight. P
  14. Only just seen this Bob. Lovely to see a real aeroplane (ie one with more than one wing) being entered. Seeing this re-tool of the Swordfish reminds me of my attempt to build the original several decades ago: what a different kit you have there to the one I remember!! You are making an excellent job of it BTW and I am enjoying watching this come together. I like the idea of one wing folded and one open - as you write, it saves space! P
  15. Evening All, Thanks Chris and Adrian for dropping by - glad to have you along. Ian I suggest that you leave some of your backlog and have a go at a floater: the GB deadline would give you the necessary push to finish it! It has been a little while since the last post and I do not seem to have achieved a great deal in the interval - as usual life has got in the way. There are also times when in the course of scratch building a model a great deal of time seems to be required to achieve not very much, and then a great deal can be achieved in a short time. I am hoping that I might be moving from the former to the latter.... I have fixed the wings and horizontal tail surfaces to the hull - they are butt joined with liquid cement, (bog standard Humbrol liquid poly). Given enough time to dry properly, and supported while they dry this gives a good clean and firm joint. I then primed the fuselage with Revell acrylic ocker (88). Later I will apply oils to represent the wood of the hull: The dark areas on the top of the mid-hull are filler but these will not show through the oil paints. Next were the floats. Originally I thought that I would make them from card and started with sides from 30 thou card with bulkheads between. I had intended to bend some 20 thou card to make the top and bottom surfaces but because the front ends of the floats are slightly tapered this was going to cause gaps to appear and I could see disaster looming: So I adopted instead the method which I had used on previous flying boats (Phoenix A and Hansa-Brandenburg CC) by making them from laminated card. The procedure is simple: glue together sheets of thick card with thick styrene cement from a tube and place under some books for at least 12 hours. Mark out the plan of the float: Cut away excess plastic with a razor saw: Shape the remaining plastic with a file and glasspaper and there is a float with the second block of laminated card ready to be treated in the same way: and here is the pile of dust that is generated by the process: (For those who do not know the above picture shows the corner of the old tray that I use as a "bench" on which I make my models. I have had it since I started modelling when I was 10-11 years old and it is still the main surface on which I work). The hull and floats have now been painted with oils and are currently drying in my airing cupboard: I expect them to be there for 2-3 days depending on the temperature inside the cupboard. Because watching and waiting for paint to dry is a bit tedious I started on the engine: when I laminated the plastic for the floats I also made up a piece for an engine block. This was filed and sanded to shape and the cylinders added from 80 thou rod. The insides of the "cylinders" were drilled so that I can add the inlet manifolds from 20 thou rod, one of which has been inserted (but not cemented): More to follow in due course. Thanks for looking. P
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