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pheonix last won the day on December 28 2017

pheonix had the most liked content!

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About pheonix

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    Maidstone Kent

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  1. pheonix

    Listening to the Solstice

    If that is the way in which you throw things together, please could I come round to your house for a tutorial? I could learn a lot about throwing from you!! Excellent modelling - as always. P
  2. That is truly amazing detail on the dashboard.
  3. pheonix

    Sopwith Camel

    For a scratch build that was mighty quick... A first class model, I do like the fornt elevation - you have really caught the shape. P
  4. pheonix

    Eduard Fokker Dr.I 1:48

    I have never been able to master the Fokker streaky finish so if I was able to paint one half as well as this I would be pleased! That is a super model and as others have written, a nice change from red. P
  5. Lovely model and added interest with the replacement wing. I do like that aspect of WW1 aircraft - it makes them different! P
  6. Evening All, I have been back to soldering again because I needed to attach the lower wing spars to the fuselage nacelle frame. The wing spars are brass bar and the wings have a small amount of dihedral, so I had to bend the bar to get the correct angle. This was done by placing a bar on the front elevation of the plans, marking the inflection points of the dihedral and gently bending the bar with a pair of pliers. Having made one spar the second had to be made to exactly the same shape. Having achieved this I now had to solder the spars to the frame, a task which I had been putting off for some time, (which is one reason why I started on the top wing as described in the last post. Anything but solder the lower spars...). This is a pusher biplane which will be all struts, booms and wires when it is completed, and if anything is out of true it will show up like a sore thumb, so getting the spars dead square and at the correct angle of dihedral on each side of the nacelle is absolutely essential if the completed model is to look right. During the soldering process everything has to be rigid to prevent movement, but setting up a jig to hold things steady on a kitchen worktop is not easy. I am not one for fancy, (and sometimes expensive), jigs and tools - everything I do is a tribute to Heath-Robinson - and I firmly believe that much can be achieved with little. Except patience - you need a large amount of that when scratch-building. So I set up my jig as follows: This is jig 1: it was designed to align the spars correctly on the base of the nacelle frame. The spars had been coated with solder paste to encourage them to stay in place long enough for me to be able to heat the joints with the tip of the soldering iron and make a stable, (but weak) joint. Now I could turn the assembly over and pin it to a block of balsa, (jig 2), so that it would not move while I really made a permanent joint with silver solder. This also shows how I added the frames between the spars - the left one is being held rigid and in place with pins: Repeat the above on the other spar, clean up the joints with a file and I had this: Or from another angle: I added the frames between the spars at the bottom of the nacelle after the spars had been soldered in place. It did mean that I had to solder one joint three times because it came apart twice, but I got there eventually. The short white pieces on the top of the nacelle are plastic rod held in place with CA because these are too small to make from brass and solder into position. The nacelle and lower spar assembly is not quite complete - there are some pieces to be added to the nose but they will wait until later otherwise they will be in the way and get damaged easily. (Guess how I know?) I was delighted to find that when I checked this assembly against the plans everything lines up as it should - including the dihedral on the spars. I also tried out adding the ribs to the spars just to get a sneak preview of what they will look like on the completed model: This model is turning into a "how-to-learn-from-mistakes" exercise. I realised that having made the ribs for the exposed wing sections, I would have to make some more because a number of ribs have three slots between the spars, and I had only made ribs with two! So back to the plastic strip and more filing, drilling and cutting....... However clouds have silver linings - well sometimes - in fairy tales and other works of fiction, don't they? In my case it was not fiction, it has really happened! I was soakling in my bath wondering how to extract the brass rods from the upper wing described in the last post when I thought that I would have one last check of the alignments of both sets of spars, including those on the fuselage frame. When I checked the top wing spars with the lower pair, I found that they align exactly!! The spars in the upper wing had not moved as I had thought, and my improvised jig for holding them in place while the epoxy resin cured had worked. Joy of joys!! This was the kind of "mistake" that I would like to repeat. Please do not ask how I came to believe that there was somthing wrong because I just do not know. But having discovered that I could use the wing assembly I proceeded to add ribs using 10 x 30 thou Evergreen strip and putting Mr Surfacer 500 and 1000 filler along the edges and sanding it all down. I also cut out the aileron and treated that in the same way. The happy result for me is that I have half of the top wing complete except for drilling the various holes for struts, rigging wires, pulleys, aileron hinges, etc which will adorn it when finished. I have started to work out how to represent the internal bracing wires which will extend from the centre of the wing to the uncovered section - more on that later. On the other hand I have found that the nacelle half that I have moulded is not quite the right shape, so I am going to have to modify the male mould and make a new half. Another error! I have also got to think about how to finish the details of the cockpit and add them to the nacelle. Thanks for looking. P
  7. Thank you Tony for your supportive comment. Sometimes I wonder about my "calm sense of purpose" - it does not always feel that way when things do not work out as planned - as you probably know already! Thanks for the compliments AA- they are much appreciated. I hope that I can demonstrate to others that scratch-building is largely a case of try, and when it does not work first time, try again. Most of the skills you list have been acquired by following others in magazines and websites and then copying them by just taking the plunge to see what happens.... Thanks Redshift: I would encourage anyone to have a try at conversions or scratch building - it really does make a model more satisfying when the modeller can say: "I made that". If I am succeeding in inspiring others then these posts will be completely worthwhile. P
  8. Like the others I am blown away by the interior detail. This is another machine new to me, so many thanks for the background information. The figures add a nice touch of realism - and the photographs are first class. P
  9. pheonix

    Avro 504K, 1/32, Scratchbuild

    Nice to see that some other modellers were also lacking attention in their maths classes..... or like me just seem to be able to make a mess without really trying! You are certainly making more rapid progress than I am - and apart from the gap on the side of the fuselage (easily remedied by the way), this is going along swimmingly. Looking forward to next week's update and solution to your problem. P
  10. Only jusyt found this - WW1 and scratch built so it MUST be good! Actually it is! I really like the ribs - splendid idea! Will be following with interest in future. P
  11. I have not seen the Kangaroo modelled before - but now I have seen one as a masterpiece. The civilian setting is superb, and the photos first class. I too like a forst of struts and wires - somehow they look more challenging than they really are - except of course when the instructions lead the modeller astray.... Do keep these models coming - they are truly inspiring. P
  12. That Wildebeest looks as though the artist knew about psychodelic art before the 1960's! That must have been a bit of a challenge, but you have done a superb job on it. The SCW collection looks very good too - some very interesting and lesser known types there - and a huge variety. P
  13. pheonix

    Sopwith Camel

    Looks OK to me. I do like the cowling and guns. Coming together well IMHO. P
  14. pheonix

    Listening to the Solstice

    I am just catching up - and catching my breath - flaps!? I thought that I was taking three steps forwards and two back with my build, but you seem to have taken three forwards and four back...! I am certain that when you have got the flap and wing root problem sorted we will all be blown away as usual. It seems to me that no problem is beyond your ability to solve. P