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pheonix last won the day on December 28 2017

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  1. That was lucky! I wish some of my scratch builds would fit as easily and as well as that! Looks very good at the moment, and will undoubtedly look even better when the fuselage details are finished. P
  2. Certainly a lot of work to fill all of those gaps! Looks good though and worth the effort. P
  3. Two steps forward and three back....mmmmm sounds like scratch building to me! As Steve has written, keep at it Richie; what you have done so far is awesome and things will only get better as you gain experience. I am thinking about how to make the exposed tailplane on my BE 2a and I do think that you may have given me an idea... P
  4. Evening All, I have been working on some of the smaller parts while waiting for larger parts to dry/set and one of these was the instrument board. Early aircraft had very few instruments (some had only a clock, fuel gauge and compass): the BE 2 was not an exception. It had an Elliot board: one pattern for RFC machines and a different one for RNAS machines. I intend to represent a machine from the RNAS based at Eastchurch on Sheppy in Kent so I have modelled the Elliot board Mk 1 which had three instrument dials between an air speed indicator and an ascent/descent guage. Above the board were two smaller dials. I could not find any transfers which even remotely represented the dials on the board, or were small enough so a blob of paint and some bezels form Eduard have to suffice. Next to the instrument board is a map board: This is not the best instrument board/panel that I have made but as it will be largely hidden under the fuselage cover and as I want to live to do something else, this will have to suffice. Another set of parts which can be tedious to make are the struts. I am making them from laminated marquetry wood and will varnish them, so to save my shoulder I have made a few in between other tasks; the remainder including the undercarriage legs and skids, will follow later: With the solid part of the upper wing sanded and ready to paint I added a strip of 20 thou card to the opening in the centre to represent the rib: That was shaped and filled prior to adding the remaining ribs to the spars. Then the fun began because the wings had two solid spars front and rear, and a centre spar which was full of holes. Cue cutting short lengths of 40 thou plastic card, drilling lots of holes and then inserting said pieces of drilled plastic between the ribs.... I found that I could make two or at most three of these per session before the will to live nearly expired. However they are now done! To finish the construction of the top wing I used 30 thou rod for the leading edge and 20 thou rod for the trailing edge: and looking at the photo I can see that I have got to adjust some of the centre spar sections to make them line up more accurately.....grrrr. However the span of the upper uncovered wing half matches the covered lower wing half on the same side of the model. I have also checked that the strut holes in the covered parts of the wings align accurately with the exposed spars on the opposing wing: at least I have managed to get that right! Now the struts should line up vertically from the sides and front as per the original machines. This project seemed to be badly stalled but it is truly under way again: making the Albatros at the same time has really helped restore my mojo. Must remember that in future ..... keep to God's Own Scale and all is (usually) well. Thanks for looking. P
  5. I like your idea for the exhausts - very original and one to keep in mind in future. P
  6. The article given by Rob tells us that it was the Ca 5 variant. Other sources also claim that the US Army air force used the Ca 5. There is no kit of this aircraft but there is a scratch build here: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10243.0 P
  7. Unless you had pointed out the cockpit error, I doubt very much that anyone would have noticed. It still looks first class whatever the alignment. P
  8. Evening All, Thanks Col and Adrian for the kind comments - much appreciated. I added the radiator between the pilot's cockpit and engine compartment and painted the model light blue - I am not certain that this is the correct colour but as I only have black and white images to work from I am happy with my interpretation. The machine seems to have been of a uniform colour except for the white squares for the background to the wing and rudder crosses: The next step was to fit the upper wing. The procedure is simple enough: I cemented the four outer wing struts to the lower wing and CA'd the bottom of the rudder post to the end of the V of the booms attached to the lower wing. While the cement and CA had a little wriggle room I put cement into the strut holes of the upper wing and a drop of CA on to the upper part of the rudder post, and gently lowered the top wing and boom assembly so that the struts and rudder post could be put into place. To add additional support I inserted the rear inner wing struts and jigged the structure with paint pots and left it to harden overnight. I forgot to take the photos with the paint pots for these pictures, but they will appear later: [ The remaining wing struts were fitted when the structure had been left overnight: here the complex jig arrangement has been set up to illustrate exactly how it works: To finish the struts I added the cabanes first, and then the boom struts. All of the wing and cabane struts were cut from 20 x 30 thou Evergreen strip and sanded to aerofoil section. The boom struts were slightly larger so they were cut form 20 x 40 thou strip: Thanks for looking. P.
  9. Are the RAF markings for the machine that crashed at Farnborough? The rear engine caught fire in flight and burned through the tail controls: the machine lost control and crashed attempting to land. With reference to an earlier post about push-pull engines mounted in tandem, it is worth recalling that Dornier pioneered the idea with his Rs II flying boat in 1917: that had 4 engines mounted in tandem pairs. That too was a prototype. P
  10. I used to have one of these kits but sold it some years ago when I cleared my collection. A very interesting subject: I will be following. P
  11. Just found this: I do like the unusual and the Gee Bees were certainly that! The engine and interior details are super - will call in more frequently to see this one taken to the finish line. P
  12. Two lovely fuselage halves. Congratulations on your first attempt to mould parts for a scratch build. I used to use a hard balsa for moulding but my source gave out a long time ago so now I use basswood. It is soft enough to sand/file easily but hard enough to make a good solid male mould. I also use 30 thou card - thick enough to be rigid but not too thick to make heating the plastic to make it maleable too difficult. Having several failures before you get a satisfactory piece is not uncommon! P
  13. I much enjoyed looking for the replacement cylinder on the engine - is there a prize for identifying it? Superb model especially given the age of the kit. The added details are as good as the kit parts and the finish is truly eye-catching. I think that you have done more than justice to this kit, and the P-12: a brilliant pair of yellow wings - winners both. P
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