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Black Knight

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  1. Another story you can have a laugh at; https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-cambridgeshire-60084347
  2. Just delivered, by Hermes. an ebay purchase, an Airfix Jaguar E-Type No, not the new one, the old 1/32 one, in a Haynes/Airfix box I've built it and have in metallic blue but I want to build it again
  3. The SM79 was a film star Were any of the others? eh?
  4. I was sorting out the parts earlier today and I noticed an odd thing on the fuselage halves; they both have locating pins but no holes for the pins. I tried to photograph them; I've come across this before, on worn moulds. Having checked, these pins do not meet each other, they are off-set a bit No pilots with this kit so I've sorted out some from the spares. A standard one on the left, that type slightly altered [middle] and a different type [ on right] As it happens, I have a tin of paint for this. I got it for an Airfix Sea King
  5. mmm. you get more for your money with the SM.79 - 3 engines, all the others only give you two!
  6. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-60075139
  7. In the 21st Century the Spirit of Adventure lives on! https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-hampshire-59899980 Her name will now join the pantheon with others such as Amy Johnson, Amelia Earhart and Harriet Quimby [and many more]
  8. Printing tests on plain paper is ok, but the ink can spread out giving the images a fuzzy look. For best looking tests print on glossy Photo paper. btw, set your printer to print Best and on Photo paper when printing on the decal paper I usually print 2 of each thing I want to print, each spaced well apart. That's to ensure I have at least one good one. It has happened that one of the copies has mis-printed. Its cheaper & easier to print more at the same time than have to go back and do another print run
  9. yes, but alcohol will soften nearly all acrylic paints, it will remove it from plastic. and in this case it will break down the lumps I revived a load of Citadel paints which had turned to near jelly by adding meths, No.3 son gave them to me when he headed to Uni. and I was able to make them usable again. I'm still using some of them
  10. Unless they've changed the formula; try some alcohol, like meths or IPA
  11. A half-baked question by me The Quad is a modern British Army All-Terrain Cycle or Vehicle aka ATC or ATV I'm attempting to do it as per the kit, ie in Afghanistan I use almost any type of paint or whatever to get to the end. I do not use artists oil paints, but will use artists acrylics or chalks et cetera But I can't get some of the 'specialist' pigments or paints so I need to try and use commonly available products
  12. Black Knight

    Burnt metal

    I use Humbrol 171 Antique Bronze enamel to which I've added a little of Humbrol 10 Brown. I paint the rings with this then lightly streak it with 29 Dark Earth acrylic and a little 56 Aluminium acrylic edit; I forgot to say I put the Dark Earth and Aluminium on whilst the Antique Bronze is still wet
  13. I'm just finishing an Airfix 1/48 Quad (four-wheel ATC) I've painted the tyres 'Rubber Black' but that doesn't look just right. Much too 'just fitted by Kwik-fit' look Any suggestions on how to give them a more 'dusty' look? [other than blowing real house dust on them! - or would that work? ] I'm out of my usual build genre on this TIA Fred
  14. I've used the Contact Spray Adhesive from Poundland on bases on which I've scattered sand et cetera for ground work. Its super sticky, until it starts to set. You need to work fast with it
  15. I've voted for the SM.79 You don't see many of those built
  16. I use the cheapest I can buy through ebay. Usually about £5 for 5 sheets https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232322269621
  17. I show no favouritism to any of my favourite children .. . . .but the others ?
  18. ah, let me make it a bit clearer. I'm building 3 Matchbox Messer 109s 1 x on here in this GB 1 x on another forum which is also running a Matchbox GB at this same time 1 x on my workbench as it was another 'scrap' kit but too far built to be eligible for either GB Thus, as I work on the 3 simultaneously some photos will show parts and workings for 3 kits
  19. I've made a start on this as the first to be started The Messer 109 had lots of holes on the nose parts. None of these are on the Matchbox kit so I decided to put some of them in. Once started it became, 'just another one, then another' Starboard side fuselage half. Untouched, top, and some holes cut in, lower. I've gone over the holes with a pencil so you can see them The top of the engine cowling, untouched, left and with holes cut in, but some fillers not smoothed, right Underneath the nose, the oil cooler radiator air inlet and outlet cut away. Don't worry about the size of the holes, this will be dealt with later in the build I'm building 3 of these kits at the same time. Two props just about ready and three sets of main wheels painted The pilot doesn't look too happy I've decided this will be a Spanish Air Force E3, post-SCW
  20. No answers on here, but Mid light grey interior sides and a slightly lighter grey on the control panels with a mid-shade olive green material on the seats
  21. One aspect not mentioned; wearing armour is very claustrophobic. I have mild claustrophobia and even wearing chainmaille sent me into a mild panic. What helped, and you cannot see in my photo because of the surcote, is my chainmaille byrnie is split down the front and held together with buckles & straps and lacing. And make sure you've gone to the bog before you are in your armour. No chance of going for a pee afterwards
  22. All have some problems some times but I'd go Xtradecal before the others every time. Often they are more accurate. I have some Printscale which are not only inaccurate in colours but also in sizes of things like roundels
  23. Would you believe that there were books of instructions for knights and squires? I have a modern repro copy of one of them. Its in storage right now but one instruction always amuses me. It goes like this; "Should you find yourself unhorsed during battle, turn over onto your front and push downwards with your hands and knees so that you are kneeling like your hound. But be careful that in doing this that you do not present your bottom [the writer used the ar.. word] towards the enemy lest you make a good target and get an arrow up your fundament. Having got to this kneeling position, push downwards with your arms and lean back ways until you are just on your knees, then raise yourself upwards. Do this very quickly as you surely will present your enemy with an opportunity to lop off your head as you kneel before him. Your squire should be on hand to help raise you to your feet, to helm you and arm you. If your squire is not by your side and he not be dead, then he should be"
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