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Charles H

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Adelaide, South Australia
  • Interests
    1:72 military aeroplanes

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  1. Sukhoi Su-27 etc (I agree with Giampiero above!) SAAB Gripen and Dassault Rafale are also amongst my favourites. But maybe F-22 Raptor, EE Lightning and P-51D Mustang, for different generations! Charles
  2. I've finally separated the PVC vacuum-formed canopy from its backing. Thank you everyone for advice given to me above. The needle, held in a pin vice, indeed made an excellent start to the perimeter, and a #3 scalpel blade cut through the row of holes fairly quickly. Then it was sand, sand, sand with ever finer grades of sanding sticks. Canopy now fits properly, although I had to eventually sacrifice the 'hinges' on the back edge, as they were just too hard for me to cope with. I'll have to fill these (I guess with Tamiya Basic putty), after I glue the canopy on. Before I glue it on, the local hobby shop here have suggested I spray the canopy with acrylic clear coat (as sold in auto shops) to further hide the inevitable scuffy marks I accidentally managed to make on it. I'm pretty satisfied I've polished them out to the best of my ability. I sprayed some oil-based clear coat I already had on scrap backing, with no apparent positive effect (but no damage, either). Please, any opinions here... and if it is a good idea (whether with acrylic or oil-based clear coat), can I then paint the canopy frames over the top, using oil-based primer and enamel topcoats? I didn't know that this canopy is made of PVC, not styrene, or what difference it makes? Apart from being less brittle! cheers, Charles
  3. Wishing all Britmodellers a Merry Christmas, and all the best for the New Year. THANK YOU all, for your replies in this thread, especially stevehnz, who surely has the patience of a saint! I've indeed practiced with scrap, and also using your excellent suggestion of using a battery blister pack. I shall finally tackle the canopy after Christmas, when things are less hectic than now, but the practice has primed me well! Thanks, Steve - I would not wish the gastro, etc I got a couple of weeks ago on anyone! UGH!! cheers! Charles
  4. ... and I wake up today feeling nauseous, achy and shivery. *Wonderful*! No canopy for me tonight.
  5. Thank you, Steve and PLC1966! I shall be carefully getting on with it tonight.
  6. I'm digging myself into a horrible hole here, sorry. I still don't understand what you mean. Is the sharp side of the blade *upwards*, rather than downwards, so the [blunt] back of the blade actually does the work? "Backwards" blade- sorry (don't know what you mean), and I simply don't understand what you mean about the groove and the needle, or a V shaped point with right angled edges. Are you saying to do everything with the back of the blade, and not the sharp surface? I obviously need help from Stone Age basics. My comprehension is disastrous.
  7. I am sorry, but I just don't understand. How do you use the actual point, but *not* the cutting edge (which you clearly want to avoid, but I just don't know why)? I am just totally clueless here, sorry. Why is the cutting edge asking for trouble? I thought this is what I'm trying to eventually do(?) Sorry, but now I am freaked out to paralysis mode, uselessly clueless.
  8. I must apologise for my clumsy "quoting" of posts I'm replying to. I don't understand how to do it properly, sorry - computer-ese things like this are beyond me.
  9. So, do you mean it's a bond that's strong enough in context, but not as strong as the dissolving-type bond? Which is fine, and so much safer! No friendlier glue than PVA, as long as it is not cold weather. I simply had no idea of the different types of plastic for models. I've only ever had polystyrene. This vacuum-thing tech for replicating plastic model parts is completely new to me; well, I have never bought such before.
  10. Sorry, stevehnz - I am embarrassed to say I still don't understand. Do you mean with the cutting edge turned |upward|, away from the model? I've just got... no idea, sorry
  11. I would have used my Tamiya Multipurpose Clear Glue tube, to glue this vacuum-formed canopy to the model... but is this wrong? With this different type of "vacuum" - plastic, can I really just use PVA glue? The water-based woodwork glue, which is white and dries clear?
  12. Hi Steve Thank you for your reply. After viewing your video, I had completely over-thought everything, sorry. I have an Excel hobby knife, exactly the same virtually, with the two slots at right angles, and I can well see the value of your suggestion of a needle-point installed, instead of a blade. My wife has lots of needles - heck, I used to do some surgical sewing myself, when I worked in a medical research lab, so I'm no stranger to it, at least to some extent! I shall practice in the next couple of days But, PLEASE, what do you mean in "sometimes dragging the blade backwards is preferable to trying to cut it through" - I'm not sure what "backwards" means, sorry! Away or towards you?
  13. Yes, since postage was twice the price of the canopy, from Japan to Oz, you are dead right! I *will* remember your sage advice next time (small item, x2 by same postage)! Thank you!
  14. Thank you! I've devoted tonight to thoroughly reading all the replies I've received, and watching links I've been pointed to. Your help is very much appreciated.
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