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Ben Brown

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About Ben Brown

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    North Carolina, USA

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  1. Nice, Andy! Can you elaborate on the fit issues you ran into. I have this kit in my stash and hope to build it as a GT4 race car. Ben
  2. Wow, those look good! I really could have used those on my build! I went with the “cut up bits of colored decal film” method on mine. Ben
  3. Very nice! Those Bandai kits are outstanding! Ben
  4. I seem to remember seeing a resin 1701-A in 1/1400 or maybe even a 1/1000 by Alliance (I think). They make good kits that are reasonably priced for a resin kit. Check Federation Models' web site. There's also a business in the UK who specializes in sci fi kits, but I can't find the link to it. Ben
  5. @busnproplinerfan: Braz’s engines are 4-5 mm too short and are too wide. I agree with Skodadriver that they are unusable. I spent some time trying to correct them, but you’re better off using Viking’s technique to fix the Airfix engines or locating some AA engines. You can’t really get to a -200 from an NG. There are too many differences. I’ve converted several Daco -300s to -200s using AA engines. It’s relatively easy, as major conversions go. I hope Kurt can produce another batch someday soon. Ben
  6. Thanks for the info! I had similar issues back when I tried Vallejo paint. Ben
  7. That’s looking great! What paint brand(s) are you using for the camouflage? Thanks! Ben
  8. The ones you have are the much improved second generation. You can get some very nice intakes for Hasegawa and Academy F-4s from DMold and XXM (both in Russia, IIRC). I've used both and highly recommend them. Rhino occasionally sells some on the US eBay. I loved his F/A-18C intakes, but I found the F-4 intakes were ~1 mm too short in height, leaving a small step between the aft end of the intake and the forward edge of the lower wing part. He told me I was the first person to have that problem, so it could very well have been something I did. GT Resin has some for Hasegawa, Academy, and Z-M. All of these sets cost around $25 US. Hannants is the only UK-based shop I can think of who might carry GT Resin. I don't think DMold or XMM sell to retailers, but they're very good about shipping overseas. Cheers! Ben
  9. The first ones Bob produced, with just the duct, were hard to install because you had to blend them with the kit inlet parts. His later ones, that were the inlet and duct combined, like what other companies now produce, were basically drop-in parts. They’re just as good as the ones currently available from other companies. Same for the intakes he made for the Tamiya 1/32 F-4s. I don’t recall any plates on the intakes, but if there are and you don’t like them, they can be easily sanded off. Ben
  10. Oooo, the original aftermarket intakes that paved the way for all of the others! Yes, you can use SS-4 with the E, F, G kits. The E, F, and G kits share the same fuselage parts so intakes made for one will fit the others. I think the J/S kits and the RF-4 kits can also use the same intake ducts. Current manufacturers sell separate intake sets for the Navy and Air Force F-4s because the engine compressor section parts are slightly different, so they include appropriate parts for each type. The old F-4B and F-4C/D kits have different fuselage shapes so intakes intended for the F-4 kits with scribed panel lines can’t be used on these. Ben
  11. OT, but wow, that clears up the question of how they mounted the missile on the Wild Weasel F-100F! The inboard pylons were already adapted for the Bullpup. I've never been able to find a good enough photo that showed whether or not there was an adapter. It's more likley that it didn't. Ben
  12. Ah, I see. I'm a little behind the power curve with this one! Ben
  13. Check YouTube. I saw a couple of videos a few weeks ago of its first flight. Ben
  14. Good choice! If you really want to go nuts with it, check out the canopy details from Hypersonic. That’s one of the few details where Z-M missed the mark, just like every other manufacturer has. Jeffrey has just released a set for the Z-M kits. Other than that, the only other addition I personally would make to the kit would be some resin seats. I think the afterburners are pretty good and the intakes are accurate; you just need to fill the seams. If the model’s rear end bothers you, Hypersonic also has a fix for that, but it’s a little more involved. Cheers! Ben
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