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Ben Brown

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    North Carolina, USA

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  1. Hmm, I guess I need to get cracking on my Dynavector kit, then! Ben
  2. Sorry, everyone. It’s probably my fault Airfix hasn’t released a Scimitar, yet. I haven’t gotten around to building my Dynavector kit, and if my past history is any indication, Airfix will probably release their own about the time I get about halfway through mine. Ben
  3. If you can’t find a Hasegawa F-4F kit at a decent price, pick up an E and add some unslotted stabilators from Hypersonic. Ben
  4. The ‘74 1/2 had the rubber bumpers but still had the earlier instrument panel. I put many, many miles on my ‘78. I’ll be following this thread! Ben
  5. Interesting! I've learned a new Phantom Nerd Phact before I've finished my morning coffee! I assume painting that exposed part of the leading edge flap (not slat!) was an RAF-only practice? Was this done on the RN FG.1s as well? I've never seen this on US F-4s; only on the edges of the leading and trailing edge flaps and ailerons that were hidden when these were retracted. Ben
  6. If you find the drawings, ask if Airfix has recently borrowed them! Ben
  7. +1 for the swear box. I closed all of the access panels and ended up exhausting all of my normal profanity and was well into Klingon before I finally gave up on the model. I was building the T.2 and spent most of the build kicking myself for selling my Paragon conversion for the Airfix kit. In all seriousness, installing the engine bays into the fuselage first and then moving forward to the main gear bays, while leaving off the gun bays, will save you some tears. IIRC, the instructions have you start with the gun bays and work your way aft. If anything is even a tiny bit out of place, it will make it impossible to get the engine bay parts correctly placed. Phase Hangar Hobbies sells intake ducts for the KH kits. Also, the kit’s outer intake parts are too large and don’t mate well with the fuselage without first cutting them down a little. Phase Hangar sells the outer intake parts but they’re for the Airfix kit and are therefore too small for the KH kits. Ben
  8. Very interesting! That SPAD didn’t have a lot of space under the canopy. Helmet required, especially during turbulence! Ben
  9. I'm not familiar with the two-seater Thud kits, but both F-105D kits aren't quite right around the canopy area. When viewed from the front, the real jet bulges out on the sides. Neither kit does this, perhaps due to mold restrictions? Based on standing next to the real jet and comparing a built Monogram kit with it, I think the reason the Monogram nose looks "off" is because of the poor fit of the radome to the fuselage and the overscale and slightly off-center pitot tube. Monogram captured a lot of subtle curves that Trumpeter/Hobby Boss completely missed. The Trumpeter/HB F-105D still has the F/G tail, with the broader chord. I didn't think the Monogram kit did as well, but I've recently seen comments to that effect. I just haven't had the time to confirm it for myself, yet. Ben
  10. Nunu’s BMW M8 GTE just arrived today from HobbyEasy. Eight days to get from Hong Kong to NC, USA. The kit looks great in the box. Can’t wait to start it! Ben
  11. I tried those, but they didn't work and I can't remember why. Once again, Hypersonic to the rescue. He sells both Navy and USAF Mk.5s - LINK I think The48ers.com sells Hypersonic products in Europe. Re. the canopy: Maybe I'm imagining it, but it does look different to my eye when parked next to my Hasegawa kits. Granted, it looked fine until somebody told me about the difference, so there's that.... Ben
  12. The Z-M kit is the best, if you want the best Phantom right out of the box. It has an aft fuselage shape issue that only the most hard core Phantom Phan will notice, but Hypersonic has a fix if it really bothers you. I’m planning to just add the fuselage fix, Hypersonic’s canopy details, and some resin seats on my kits. The Academy kit is nice, but it takes some resin to bring it up to the same level of accuracy as the Z-M kit, which drives the price up. There are issues with the stabilators and ACS scoops (resin replacements are available from Hypersonic) and the intakes (DMold, XMM). The fixed center canopy part is too wide front to back, which makes the forward canopy too short, but this is only really noticeable when you park the kit next to a Hasegawa, Z-M, or Monogram kit. Out of the box, it still builds up into a nice-looking model. Also, the old Monogram F-4C/D builds up into a pretty accurate replica. It has raised panel lines and needs a little elbow grease to deal with some seams, but it might be worth a look if price is an issue. Ben
  13. They certainly didn’t when they designed the C and F! The C cockpit and tail are wrong (but can be corrected) and the F’s cockpit and canopy are too long (nothing you can do about that). I think Trumpeter has an A Team and a team of children to do their research. The A Team researched the Hurricane and the kids researched the F-100s. Ben
  14. @Starfighter, I never noticed the center pylon issue! We'll add that to the list. When you add the Zacto nose, rescribe the panel line that represents the break between the nose part and the fuselage 3mm forward. Trumpeter got it too far aft and the Zacto part attaches at that panel line. The too-far-aft panel line forced Trumpeter to make the pitot mount too short. The position of the kit pitot is correct, it's just far too thick, so you just need to extend the leading edge of the mount forward to almost touch the new panel line. I hope that makes sense. I didn't take any photos when I corrected that area. @Scimitar F1, I spent a little time trying to figure out a good way to fix the wings, but never came up with a method that I thought I could actually finish. One method I saw someone else mention was to shim the leading edge of the wing, but then you'd introduce more problems. I was thinking that re-skinning the forward 2/3 of the wing chord inboard of the wing fences to raise the upper part might work, but that's a ton of work to do on a model with so many other dimensional issues. Once the gear is hidden behind the drop tanks, it isn't noticeable and nobody is going to be looking at the too-shallow main gear wells, anyway. I actually finished mine, eventually, in spite all of the whining and complaining I did at the time! Sorry for the crappy cell phone picture. Ben
  15. I built the 1/32 D kit and tried to correct most of its problems. That's what led to my um, strong... opinions about all of Trumpeter's F-100s. Steer clear of the replacement wheels from Renaissance. They were just copies of the too large kit parts. I'm not familiar with the ones Seawinder mentioned. The Renaissance ones were the only replacements available when I built mine, so I had to turn them down to the correct diameter. The main and nose gear struts are the correct length; the too-thin wing has the effect of making the model sit too nose-level. The only way to fix the model's attitude, other than rebuilding the wings, is to cut the tops of the struts about 3 mm for the 1/32 kit. It does slightly effect the geometry of the doors and actuators, but on mine I just hid the entire mess behind the drop tanks. I don't recall if the kit needed nose weight. Didn't they provide a weight for the avionics bay? Regardless, shortening the main gear struts won't change the center of gravity enough to cause problems. With enough alcohol, headache medicine, and elbow grease, it can be built into a decent looking model, as my friend Lee did here (I'm the disgusted friend he mentions): LINK Ben
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