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Ben Brown

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About Ben Brown

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    North Carolina, USA

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  1. On one of the other forums, he mentioned they're planning a 1/144 line, too! Ben
  2. I’m planning to go ahead and start it soon. I still have some other projects I’m trying to drag across the finish line, but the Eagle is going to be too tempting to save until later. I’ll definitely post pics when I start it. Ben
  3. @Nocoolname, I picked up the new 1/72 Eagle a couple of days ago. What a great-looking kit! I can't wait to start it. Ben
  4. Ours were inside the clear cover on the wingtips, forward of the two nav lights. They’re visible in the walk around here on Britmodeller: LINK There was(were) also a strobe(s) on the very aft end of the fuselage, also visible in the walk around. Forgot all about those! That said, the strobes may have been an optional accessory. They don’t seem to be present on this -400: LINK Thanks for letting me dredge up some old memories! The Dash-8 wasn’t the fastest thing in the air, but it was one of my favorites. I used to look at it from a modelers perspective, too, so a lot of these geek details have stuck with me! Ben
  5. Just to confirm what skyscooter just said, the 100s I used to fly only had the one beacon on the tail. They’d flash bright/dim, about 1 cycle per second, like an F-4’s beacon. There was a white nav light on the aft fuselage above the tail cone vent. There were two wing tip nav lights and a strobe under a clear fairing on the wing tips. Only one nav light at a time was lit. The other was a standby, but I don’t remember how we’d switch them. It’s only been 30 years! Ben
  6. Cutting the stabs off and adding pins to strengthen the joint is probably the least painful way to do it. It will also make it easier to fix the seam at the top of the tail. I usually use a sharpie to put a red (port) or green (starboard) dot on the inboard edge of the stabs, so I don’t get the two sides confused later when I go to glue them back on. Ben
  7. Looking great! I had similar problems with the two sets of Braz engines I put on my Welsh 757s. Ben
  8. So true. Same goes for the F-105 and F-106. Ben
  9. I found when I built the F-4E that cutting the stabilator apart so they can be installed individually, it makes it a lot easier to clean up the aft fuselage seams and paint everything back there. You lose the pivoting function but it’s just a gimmick anyway. There are tons of aftermarket parts available that can correct most of the kit’s ills. It just depends on how much time and money you want to throw at the model. My E had so much resin that I was thankful for the metal landing gear! Ben
  10. Hi Madcop! Yes, good luck with your search! I'm not a big fan of rescribing, but for some reason, I've never minded rescribing the Monogram kits. Also, in case you haven't built this kit before, it has a reputation for having a really bad seam to clean up on the fuselage forward and aft of the wings. The trick is to build the fuselage without the wings. The gap between the wings is too narrow and pulls in the sides of the upper fuselage half, causing the seam. Without the wings, you don't have quite as bad a seam to clean up. Split the wings and add them later. Removing the stabilators makes it a lot easier to clean up the seams on the aft fuselage, too. I look forward to seeing your work in progress! Cheers! Ben
  11. I had one of those many years ago but gave it away. I didn’t find it very useful. I think the only areas where it helped were those long, narrow rectangular panels on the fuselage sides and the oddly-shaped one forward of the drag chute well. The panel lines on the old Hun are simple enough that Dymo tape and a scribe are all you need. Just sand off the raised panel lines and then follow the “ghost” images of them. Cheers! Ben
  12. Nice, Andy! Can you elaborate on the fit issues you ran into. I have this kit in my stash and hope to build it as a GT4 race car. Ben
  13. Wow, those look good! I really could have used those on my build! I went with the “cut up bits of colored decal film” method on mine. Ben
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