james424 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Ok, so I've been reading around a few other websites and a few threads on here and there seems to be a fair bit of reference to microsol and micro set. I understand that they're used to make your details go better but what exactly are they and how do you use them? And more to the point,is it worth five big ones to buy both or do I only need one or the other. Thanks guys, James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Kunac-Tabinor Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Hi James - in short yes! You need to apply your decals over a gloss finish for best results with these. You can use either independently but they tend to work better when used together. Microset is used underneath your decal, so brushed on beforehand - it acts to grab the decal and start to pull it down into the details. Microsol is applied over the top of the decal whilte its still wet. It softens the decal allowing it to snuggle down further into those details. Your decal will wrinkle and deform after you've applied micrsol, but if you leave it alone will dry back smooth and conformed into all the detail. After the decals have dried out you can gently clean off any residue witha damp cloth and then either apply another gloss coat to seal them in, or your choice of top coat varnish for the end sheen you want. Gunze also make a 2 part system Mr Mark Setter and Mr Mark Softer, and Daco produce 3 strengths of a sol type decal setter. Micro's sytem is probably the most wideley available, but doesn't work on all kit manufacturers decals to the same degree ( old hasegawa decals and other japanese decals tend to not like it in my experience), which is where the other makes can be useful. I use the Micro system and the Gunze system for tougher decals and Japanese ones. Cheers Jonners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madam I'm Adam Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Hi James I think you mean decals? There are various decal setting agents out there which are more agressive or gentle depending on your need. I've used microsol on its own and with one exception where i needed something really strong, it has worked just fine on its own. I'm sure others will share their knowledge but if someone has a sort of chart of weak to strong setting solutions that would be interesting too. Cheers Adam the wrinkled, waiting to go smooth... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 It's advertised as a two part system. Micro set is brushes on the model where the decal goes. This helps you get it in the right place, helps you get rid of air bubbles and as it acts as a slight softner. Micro set is a softner that you paint onto the decal after it is in place to help it get into recesses on the surface. I would guess that the vast majority of modellers have a bottle of each in their tool kit. There are lots of other decal softners around, most of them are more expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Lime Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 They are decal softening solutions and I'd say they're worth it. They make your decals conform to the surface a lot more easily than using a sharp scalpel, kitchen roll and gentle pressure. You use them by brushing on MicroSet to the area where you'll be applying your decal first. Once you're happy with the decal placement, depending on how good/bad or thick/thin the decal film is, you either apply another coat of Microset or use the stronger MicroSol. DO NOT TOUCH the decal after this for at least 24 hrs or you may tear/damage/move it and then you'll be very annoyed with yourself. After you've let the decal set and dry out, just give your model a gentle wip with a damp cloth to remove the solution residue. If you miss this stage out, when you seal the decals in with your preferred finish, you'll end up with a slightly blotchy appearance. Some aftermarket decals are so good, you don't need these, but most kit decals are a bit crap and need a little help to look good. One last thing, the bottles last for ages. Mine are years old and look like I've hardly used them, so your 5 quid outlay can be stretched out for years to come and represents very good value for money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffB Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 For what it's worth, I've given up using Microset but I find Microsol invaluable Cliff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce3371 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) I've been reading this with interest. I too have read lots about Microset/sol, but have never used them. I have 1 question; when you brush the Microset on before placing the decal, does it allow you to move the decal around, or do you need to be precise in its positioning first time round? And if it does enable you to move it around, does the gloss surface help with this? Edited July 3, 2011 by bruce3371 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Lime Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 I have 1 question; when you brush the Microset on before placing the decal, does it allow you to move the decal around, or do you need to be precise in its positioning first time round? And if it does enable you to move it around, does the gloss surface help with this? In answer to the above, yes you have a short period of time to move the decal around before it's stuck down. And as with any part of the decalling process, a gloss surface always helps. Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffB Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Bruce, the Microset doesn't really glue the decal on. It acts just like water, but apparantly softens the decal slightly to aid adhesion. Decals that have been put on with Microset can be repositioned (at the time), by re-floating with water - so absolutely no need to worry about ending up with a decal that's ended up 'glued' to the model in the wrong place. Cliff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james424 Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 Bruce - Good question, you beat me to it. A further question would be once you've used the microset to get the decal in place do you brush the microsol on while it's still wet or do you have to weight for it to dry slightly before you can use the microsol. Cheers again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffB Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Hi James You press the decal down and express all the liquid (water, Microset, or whatever) from underneath so that the decal is firmly in place. Then put the Micro Sol on straightaway. Cliff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james424 Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 Awesome, thanks for the gen'. Time for me to do a little internet shopping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hacker Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/904-470 l have always used solvaset that is now part of the Walthers range. Never had a problem but l always test it on a unused decal to see if it is too strong. Really the only problem l had was on the old Monogram decals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulcanicity Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 I also use them both and find them invaluable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce3371 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Thanks for the replies chaps, I too will be doing some internet shopping lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madam I'm Adam Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Micro's sytem is probably the most wideley available, but doesn't work on all kit manufacturers decals to the same degree ( old hasegawa decals and other japanese decals tend to not like it in my experience), which is where the other makes can be useful..... the Gunze system for tougher decals and Japanese ones. Cheers Jonners Ahha...that possibly explains those Dragon decals that behaved like cardboard and then broke up... thanks Adam the enlightened (well a little bit more enlightened than before) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brodders1997 Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Can you use the micro sol or set as the same job as water and do you put sol over the decal also how long does it take for set/sol to work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goon Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 (edited) Put the Set (blue) on the area the decals is going and slide in to place. 'Roll' the water / Set from underneath the decal with a cotton bud, so it adheres. Use a soft brush to cover the decal with Sol (red). It may well wrinkle up and look terrible (depends on the decals, not all react the same way). DO NOT PANIC! Don't touch the decal, just leave it over night and it will straighten itself out. If the decal dries quickly you can repeat the Sol application gently to get stubborn decals to conform. If you do get any air bubbles then gently gentleman's parts them with a needle, and cover in Sol. Some decals need stronger Sol components, like Mr. Mark Softer, but try Sol first and 'move up' if needs be. I've seen Mr. Mark Softer make decals literally dissolve and run. EDIT: I wish I'd read Jon's post at the top properly! Edited August 16, 2011 by goon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decoman Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 (edited) When liquids are banned in shipiments only terrorists can use microset µsol? How the hell am I supposed to aquire these products in Scandinavia? Afaik it is not allowed to ship liquids to customers in Europe. Edited November 4, 2013 by Decoman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizball Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 All liquids are not banned. Living in Sweden, I've ordered lots of liquids from all over Europe in the last ten years and apart from laquer and enamels, never had a problem. And, Microset/sol is quite often available in your closest hobby store and failing that, you most certainly have a web shop in your country selling the stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decoman Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Doing a search now I finally see a store that has that. First time ever I found any Microset/Microsol in my country on the internet. www.togbutikken.no (Vestfold) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sroubos Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I do find that MicroSol is one of the weaker solutions for getting the decal really conforming to recesses and sharp angles. Both Mr Mark Setter and medium DACO are stronger. With (older) kit decals, I tend to go for one of the latter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drem Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Fate has brung me here!!!! So Micro Sol-Set, are the ones everybody seems to be sticking with. I have used it on Tamiya decals and never had any problems with it. No need to tell anybody then that if you get any bubbles in the decal, pierce it with a pin and pile more Sol-Set onto it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonkka Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 So far I have used Tamiya Mark Fit Strong but I've never been satisfied with it. Even on less demanding places it takes several applications before decal wraps around contours (my experience are with Italeri and now Tristar decals). I've been looking to switch to Micro Sol but judging from sroubos' comments aboce, I am a bit hesitant. If Micro Sol is not stronger than Tamiya's stuff, I'd rather save my pennies for something more effective. And if that something turns out to be Mr Mark Softer (nor Setter), I have to find a place that sells it and has it stocked. Any words of advice (on which is best & strongest)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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