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Vulcanicity last won the day on October 11 2016

Vulcanicity had the most liked content!

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About Vulcanicity

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    Paintbrush Warrior
  • Birthday 02/05/1990

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    1:72nd aircraft, British 1920s-1980s

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  1. Hi all, and thanks for the clarification about the outside thermometer/temp gauge! More long delays - PhD corrections (approved on Monday, yay! ), comments on a scientific paper (accepted, yay!) and starting a new job (still doing induction and admin, and getting used to a monumental project management system ) have sapped my time and energy this time. However - it's time for the big reveal! That's right, one Stranraer of 228 Squadron RAF, based at Pembroke Dock in winter 1938-39. Ages ago, I managed to snaffle a complete decal sheet from the Revell re-release of this kit (mine's a bright-green and turd-brown Matchbox issue, if you remember), off a well-known internet emporium. The original kit sheet I had was yellowed and disintegrating, and a new-old-stock replacement I found in a decal odds-n'-ends bin at Telford was also not great. So far, so happy, as you can see, lovely bright colours. However, I've had a helluva fight to get them stuck down as well as this. I normally make sure I've got a nice gloss surface, apply the decal, and use Micro Set and Micro Sol as per the instructions, and Robert's your father's sibling. However after about three applications of Sol, these Revell decals just refused to sit down at all - they went all soft and wibbly OK, but once the stuff had evaporated they tightened right back up and refused to sink into panel lines, or even the undulating fabric detail on the wings. Bubbles that weren't there before suddenly appeared I dug out spare unopened bottles of the solvents but this made no difference - I think the decals themselves must just be much too thick. Anyway, faced with a major disaster I did what British people have done for centuries - I bodged a new technique on the spot and crossed my fingers. Turns out, if you wait until the MicroSol is about 3/4 dry (the wibbly bits are just starting to disappear), then GENTLY brush over the decal with a clean, soft but firm paintbrush,applying a fair amount of pressure over the recessed detail and forcing any bubbles out to the side, the recalictrant decal dries and settles as you wanted, and stays there. I've called this Phil's Patent Paintbrush Persuasian Protocol (PPPPP) and you're welcome to it! Then, more stress as (with a great deal of trepidation) I applied a rattlecan satin varnish coat, and proceeded to remove all the masking which had been on for weeks. I've hammed up rattlecan varnish so many times my heart was in my mouth for this one! I've taken to doing less rather than more from the can, and finishing off with Revell aqua varnishes with a hairy stick, as the risk of getting horrible white speckling over roundels and other dark areas is much reduced. Even so, STRESS... Phew! You can see in this view that I've put an initial coat of grey paint on the metal-skinned areas of the lower centre wings. These were definitely covered with some kind of non-slip coating (or possibly anodised), but it's definitely not black (as Revell depicted with decals) or the enigmatic "Black Green" as Matchbox suggest that you paint these areas. There are very few shots of service Stranraers that show this area, and they're all of poor quality. However they all show a pretty minimal contrast between the silver of the fabric areas and the non-slip sections. I went for Medium Sea Grey as an approximate tonal match (I realise it needs another coat!). I've also more or less finished the Stranraer's engine nacelles, having drybrushed my modified resin engines, then had a minor nightmare trying fix them into my modified cowlings and get them to sit straight. The perils of super-detailing and kit modifications! Now, from silver, to...NIVO! I'm not a fan at all of enamel paint (too much teenage lung damage put me off), and the Xtracolour NIVO is not available as an Xtracrylix. So I had to mix my own - I used five parts Humbrol 91 to four parts Humbrol 88, measured exactly with a syringe. I'm pretty chuffed with the result considering it's mixed by eye - it's close enough to me considering there are very few preserved aircraft in this colour and no (?) period colour photos, and so any glaring difference isn't going to constantly annoy me. I modified the panel where the elevator actuator disappears into the wing to show the pulley - unfortunately this area has a few imperfections which were too difficult to remove with the struts and rigging points all added - but it's all going to be in deep shadow so I'm not sure it'll notice. You all have to act nicely and not point them out in the RFI (due in about October 2022 at current rates) With the NIVO done, it was time for decals... and a trial fit to produce a more or less complete aeroplane! More Revell decals, and even worse adhesion. Even the PPPPP failed me for the spats, and I had to resort to cutting the wrinkles with a fresh scalpel blade. Those of you who know your Heyford variants will know that this is the Heyford II option (nose windows, early style radiator intakes) - I've built K4877 of 7 Squadron based at Worthy Down (I think?) in 1936. This is far as I've got with the finishing of the main sub-assemblies, but hopefully I can get the Heyford's matt coat on this week (cue more existential terror with a spray can) and then do some nice relaxing weathering. Before I go, one more shot. While I bought a full complement of MiniArt machine guns, I was too stingy to spend £25 on two brass Scarff ring mountings for the Stranarer. (The Heyford uses a different kind of mounting which I think is a Hawker mounting similar to that on the Hart series). Instead, aided by some excellent photos from the RCAF archives, I made a start on scratchbuilding the Scarff rings. I only used the kit ring (thinned down, all the white areas are plasticard stock). Only four more mountings to do!
  2. You think you're making painfully slow progress? I started mine in July 2017! Seriously though, some great work and I'm looking forward to the result!
  3. Vulcanicity

    Yellow tips and black blades on props - what date from?

    For what it's worth, pre-war Stranraers in the silver scheme (also a Pegasus installation, but fixed-pitch Fairey-Reed props) had all-dark (black?) blades, at least on the front faces, with a narrow stripe at about 3/4 of the way down the blade - this looks to have been Red not Yellow, and is very hard to see on most photos. I guess this was an earlier attempt at the visibility stripe which was eventually changed to the black/yellow tips? There's plenty of evidence that other "modern" types coming into service in camo from 1937 onwards didn't initially have yellow tips - Blenheim Is is the example that immediately springs to mind. Was there a directive to propeller manufacturers at some point in 1938-39?
  4. Vulcanicity

    Miles Magister L5912 - Colours? 1937 Photo

    Yeah I'd concur, that rich dark texture seems like yellow +orthochrome film to me.
  5. Aha, more progress! Well done that man - especially for spotting that the double bracing wires are only on the forward sides of the wing bays, and only the wires going outboard from bottom wing to top wing! Your scratchbuilding looks ace too - more than enough if you're not planning to open the door (and probably more than enough if you are! -I went a bit mad). Cheers, P PS. You might (and I stress might) want to scribe some panel lines on the plain area on the uppersurface of the bottom wings - as far as I can tell this was metal-plated rather than fabric-covered as extra reinforcement over the bomb carriage points, and covered with some kind of mid-greyish non-slip coating (not Black as the Revell decals would have it). The Cox plans don't show this area, much to my earlier frustration, but the 04/2001 Aeroplane cutaway does: You can also see the area quite clearly in this shot of prototype K9373 which I snaffled from the National Archives:
  6. Thanks again for all the positive comments - gosh I really can't make a mistake with you lot looking over my shoulder can I? Only joking, in all seriousness, I really appreciate people pointing out stuff I've missed and suggesting improvements! Alexey, you're quite right - I'd just assumed the circular feature was a doped on inspection panel and had decided to ignore it, but here's the relevant image from the AP clearly showing the disc-shaped pulley. I'll add it on with some foil before I paint the Heyford. Nice to know that the same feature is present on the Hart/Fury series too - thanks Adrian! We're back with the Stranraer this time, and in many ways this post mirrors the last one - adding final details to the fuselage and wings before priming. Being a flying boat the Stranraer is festooned with mooring cleats and bollards around the crew positions, which MB didn't make any attempt to represent - although they've made a very passable attempt at the footrail for the ground (water?) crew. Here we have two bollards, two cleats, and the hinges for the spring-loaded nose door (this could be opened for mooring, but is mainly for the front gunner/bomb aimer to aim the bombs from...draughty!) The rectangular structure forward of the small round porthole appears to be some kind of ventilation vent and appears on all military Stranraers (but is absent from 920 at Hendon). This was made from two strips of plasticard; I gave it a hollow effect by cutting a very narrow rectangle out of the side of one of them before gluing together. Months and months ago (summer 2017!!) I chiselled off the vague elongated lumps around some of the smaller windows, these are supposed to represent hinges for these windows in the W/Op and crew rest compartments which could be opened (presumably not in flight as most of them are hinged at the rear edge!). Anyway, here are my plasticard replacements. You can also see the exhaust for the APU in the starboard wing root and a tiny drain pipe next to it. MB moulded a windscreen for the gunner in clear plastic. The Stranraer did carry such a screen, which folded flat along the fuselage to give a very low profile - so much so that when folded it's very difficult to tell if it's there or has been removed. Careful study of photos implies that it was often removed in service, but I elected to add it as it seems to have been used by the pre-war RAF. The part is much too thick, but as far as I can tell the real thing was made of aluminium and was never clear (could the UK aviation industry even produce a strong, frameless, curved piece of Perspex this size in 1936?), so it was no problem to sand it down on the inside. I also added the rails which guide the bottom corner during unfolding, and the fairing at the leading edge which covers the attachment points. Other details here include more mooring cleats, and four tiny attachments around the large circular hatch forward of the gunner - the AP describes awnings which can be fitted over this hatch, so I guess this is what these were for. There's little more to do around the tail, but I added mounting points for the radio aerial cables, and tiny actuators for elevator and rudder trim tabs. Underneath, there are four tiny towing eyes along the keel, two at the bow end for winching out of the water, and two near the stern. Inspection of 920 at Hendon shows these latter were for securing the aft beaching gear trolley: On top of the upper wing we have these odd lumps on sticks which MB provide. I'm pretty sure they're not DF loops (why have two? Also, a separate DF loop is added on some aircraft behind these lumps) but I haven't got any better ideas. I also added the radio mast to replace the kit part (which I lost). I then snapped it off almost immediately while priming, then re-found the fit part. There's some kind of lesson there, I suspect. Lastly, we have these lumpy protrusions at the forward end of the cabane struts where they join the nacelle. Again, I'm none the wider as to their purpose, but I suspect they hide some fuel system piping or similar. MB missed them because they seem to be specific to the Pegasus installation, and the re-engined postwar machines (including 920 at Hendon) omit them. This is 1mm plasticard doubled up, then sanded and carved to shape. If you're building the kit and want to add them, I strongly suggest doing so before assembling the whole wing complete with all the interplane struts - the sanding was fiddly, to say the least! And then - all of a sudden - primer and paint! All together now....aaaaaah! I tentatively decided to use a rattle can of Humbrol 11, and am glad I did, although it took multiple coats and touch-ups. Pretty pleased with the result, and very pleased with how well my detail additions look under the paint (and with how neatly my sanding and filling has disappeared!) Next time I shall be battling the Revell decals (spoiler - they're incredibly annoying) and mixing up some NIVO-coloured potion...
  7. Hi everyone! Thanks for the comments. Alexey - your Heyford is superb, easily the best I've seen in 1/72nd! That's the scheme I'm planning on, and I'll be pleased if I get it that good! I've already got a full stock of the Marabou bomb racks, although your post reminded me to check how many of the Miniworld Lewis guns I had - only two! So I gritted my teeth and shelled out on some more (£6 each ferchrissakes!) Limeypilot -A quick check of the SAM modeller's datafile on the Battle suggests it had type-specific bomb racks which fitted into the bomb cells - so you might have to scratchbuild. PM me if you need a copy of the illustrations... After a Stranraer-heavy last post, we're back to the Heyford for this one. I was again faced with the conundrum of which bit of the wing/fuselage assembly to leave dissembled until after painting. I could either join the fuselage to the top wing and leave the bottom wing off for painting, or do something controversial (yes, me! controversial!): Attach the two wings together with their intervening struts, paint them and the fuselage separately, and slide the fuselage in after painting (what would Dr. Freud say?). The major argument in favour of this is that the wing strut joints were going to be faffy and fiddly, requiring copious rubber bands and clamping, (visions of ruining carefully-mixed NIVO with stray glue) whereas the fuselage slots perfectly into the top wing without a hair's width of gap. I decided on controversy: Before this, I finished off a few details with the upper wings which would have required immense contortions of my clumsy mitts if I'd stuck the wings together first. These include the prominent actuator for the ailerons, balance weights and a couple of minor details on the leading edge slats. I generally make rounded knobs on sticks (ooh-err missus) by applying congealed paint to a bit of plasticard strip, which is why the balance weights are red! I also added the interplane struts and filled the gaps left in the wings - these are not a good fit at all! Now the fuselage really was on the finishing straight - time for one of my favourite modelling jobs, which is adding all the tiny exterior details which make a model come alive. Matchbox supply the strange handrail above the wireless operator's position, and the guards to stop the pilots' hands crossing paths with the whirling 12ft planks on either side of the cockpit! However neither was thin enough for my tastes, and both required cleaning up seams (and inevitable snappage). So out with the 0.5mm plasticard, and here's some better ones! Bizarrely, MB forgot the prominent pitot tube on the underside of the nose, so I scratchbuilt this plus the dinky little navigation light on the other side: Almost the last job were these bungees which help to keep the tailwheel centred on landing - I had a good image courtesy of the AP so was able to add these reasonably accurately (although too late, I realised the hole for the tailwheel itself is a couple of mm too far forward! And all of a sudden, it was masking and priming time! I've since primed the wings - Next step NIVO!
  8. Excellent progress PC! That paint is looking the part. As for Vegas, well, rather you than me. "Forth! And fear no darkness!"
  9. That's a wonderful film, thanks for posting! For those who know Bristol and Filton, it's amazing how rural the whole area looks in the footage showing the air test! One for the really observant - who spotted the Beaufort nose? I suspect filmed accidentally - the prototype flew in November 1938 so surely it must have been relatively secret still? (2:46 for those who didn't see it)
  10. Vulcanicity

    1/72 - Avro York by MikroMir - 3D renders

    Any news on this? I'd love to build a Berlin Airlift York but am nervous of the Mach 2 kit...
  11. A typically very late arrival from Vulcanicity but these are looking the bees knees PC - and your prose is as soaring as ever, despite baby near-disasters and photoetch succumbing to the carpet monster, Photoetchivorans horridus (subspecies P. h. americanus). Seems to be confirming my suspicion that this kit is AWESOME. I'd be very pleased to meet you at Telford - I skipped 2018 as I was unemployed and stretching every penny, but mercifully some fool has offered me a job so I'll be back this year! Anyway, on with the Hurricane show... taking notes here at the back!
  12. Vulcanicity

    Airfix 2020

    If Arma Hobby could be persuaded to do a Lysander, I'd probably buy it in preference to either Airfix or Dora! Pretty sure a couple of Polish squadrons flew them... Hudson, Mosquito, Anson, Battle, P-38, P-47, Corsair, Ju-88 and Canberra all seem plausible options in 1:72, but I'm beginning to give up hope that the Meteor, Sea Vixen or Javelin will be downscaled!
  13. Never mind IL-2s, what the modelling world is really crying out for is a brand new Halifax in 1/72. Or Oxford Or Anson. Or Wellington III. Or...you get the picture! (Yes, an IL-2 would also be welcome!)
  14. Vulcanicity

    RAF 500lb GP bombs mid 1930s - colour?

    Thanks both! Shuttleworth presumably have it correct on the Hind then. Did the bombs become yellow at any point before changing to dark green during WW2? I only ask because both of these (I believe original) colour shots seem to show a distinctly more yellow hue that than the buff on the Hind: Stirling Charles E Brown/IWM photo from Wikipedia: Wellington from Etienne Du Plessis Flickr Cheers, P
  15. A bit late to the party perhaps, but I finally picked my "expert" boxing up from the Royal Mail office yesterday. As with Michael and others above, I'm frankly blown away by the quality and detail. Make no bones about it - this kit is Tamiya quality in the box - incredibly crisp, delicate detailing, superb attention to detail (raised "Dunlop" on the tyres, and they've got the offset tailfin right!) and thoughtful engineering. Quite a debut from a "short-run" company! Only two tiny, tiny negatives: it would have been nice to have a poseable rudder, and a bit of tissue paper for the decals (there's some slight chipping on my upperwing roundels where they've stuck to the instructions) Now Mr. Arma...please could you tool 1/72nd kits of every single aircraft type used by the RAF and FAA in WW2, to the same quality? Or failing that, every type conceivably flown by a Polish airman in British service? Thanks...