Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

923 Excellent

About sroubos

  • Rank
    Obsessed Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

928 profile views
  1. We need these kits in 1/72. The MPM kit is inaccurate, rare and expensive.
  2. They also did some very pretty ones: Dewoitine D.500, D.520, Caudron C.714, Lioré et Olivier LeO 45. Not that different from most other nations I would say. Also, most of the French designs you mention are 1930s designs, because of course they didn't have a chance to do anything after 1940. And if you compare 1930s designs in general to later designs they are generally less aerodynamic and pretty than 1940s designs. If you limit yourself to other nations' designs from pre-1940 the difference isn't that huge I would say.
  3. Six months? That's about average for me and then the end result isn't super accurate anyway To be honest I can't get to hung up about taking something, scaling down every feature of it by a factor of anywhere between 24 and 144 and then worrying about minimal alleged deviations with the original, as long as it 'looks right'. I put these between apostrophes because that is of course a personal thing, but I think we are quite lucky that as modellers we live in a time where for most well-known and quite a few lesser known types we have multiple decent kits to choose from that all, at least from my perspective, 'look right'.
  4. I managed the get my RS P-38 to the finish line in a - for me - acceptable state. It wasn't easy.
  5. RS kits are typical short run stuff, nice surface detail but you will likely have to rescribe most of it since the fit is not quite Tamigawa quality
  6. That’s a good price for these kits I think, which store did you use?
  7. I would say no. There are multiple paint mixes that claim to mimic Have Glass but having used one (Hataka) and seen others I don't find any of them convincing. Most over-emphasize the metallic sheen. In my F-35 build I have repainted my kit three times (Hataka, my own mix and finally straight up normal 36118). You can read all about my trials and tribulations and my rationale for picking 36118 in my RFI thread on the build:
  8. With regards to the price tag, Tamiya really produces these for their home market so you pay the crazy Tamiya/Haseagawa import prices in Europe. But it's not really relevant in this case as you might as well get the Italeri kit, which can be had for less than 2 tenners. You only miss out on the pilot figure but who uses these anyway
  9. I know Tamiya regularly rebox Italeri kits for the Japanese market but this is easily the worst of all the F-35 toolings in 1/72. Japanese buyers are better off getting the Hasegawa kit.
  10. Lot of flash and fairly soft detail on those sprue shots. Doesn't look like a 40 quid kit to me.
  11. This is the same ESCI tooling as recently released by Wolfpack I think? Good to have it available again, hopefully the price is a bit better than the Wolfpack kit.
  12. This is disappointing. A WNW kit at Meng pricepoint, great, but 65 quid is still a lot of money for a 1/32 WWI kit. I only have two WNW kits but they are worth the cash as they are just superlative in every respect. But getting a WNW kit for 20% less but with a whole host of annoying issues (bent wings is the really nasty one from my PoV), that's not a good buy in my book. I was going to buy this unseen but now I'll wait for a few folks to actually build it first.
  13. Very interesting topic, I like these comparison shots. We should have someone do this for all permutations of paints and primer bases I generally use Humbrol Polished Aluminium from a spray can if I want to do something you're describing in the opening post but that does results in a much matter and less reflective appearance than the Tamiya, but then I always apply it on a normal gray primer background.
  • Create New...