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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.

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Found 1,674 results

  1. As promised @PlaStix, but no - this is not a single night's work. I started at the beginning of the week, and haven't had a chance to post anything. On a bit of a roll here with 1:48 scale military vehicles. This one was an impulse buy a week or so ago, inspired by some of the terrific builds I've seen on this forum. Box top: Sprue shots: The mouldings are not as crisp as the 1:48 Tamiya vehicles I have been building, see for example the front wheels: This is going to be another out of the box build, I am going to do the later model RAF marked vehicle. First, I drilled out the ends of the "bumper" (almost going cross eyed in the process) Chassis went together very quickly There are a few mould lines in awkward places, but they won't be visible so I am not too fussed - but still not quite as much finesse as the Tamiya kits. Wheels look nice and rugged, and the flat bits all touch the ground! Now on to some painting. I brewed up some SCC 2 with Tamiya acrylics according to the recipe I found in this conversation thread: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234913729-british-ww2-tank-colors/ For the canvas tilt I mixed up roughly a 1:1 mix of XF 78 wooden deck tan and XF 49 khaki. Looks ok to my eye. First brushed on coat of SCC2
  2. Hello All, It was painfully obvious that I wasn't going to do the Fairey Long Range Monoplane in time for this GB, so I have paused it. However, while reading Bonhoff's excellent S6B post, I got to musing about kits you could slap together on a Saturday morning. So, this being Saturday, I tiptoed down to the garage at 7am... I always remember looking at the Airfix SR53, thinking "I don't build jets, but if I did, I'd build that one!" Build a classic, hard to find, red stripe baggie? Gulp. Not on my watch! "Hello, my name is Adrian and I have a red stripe collecting problem." Welcome to the group Adrian. So how about the beautiful Freightdog model? Nope, it would take too long to do properly. But how about this? The Ursus repop, acquired for peanuts on EBay years ago. Same plastic - perfect! Including Gort: And a wacky stand: If only I had some references: The fairing on top of the tailplane is wrong, but the fuselage is wronger, being too deep: A Saturday morning build needs a thumbprint: To make the fuselage shallower, the lower edge was brutally bent upwards, getting back some 3mm of added slimness: The airbrakes have a side with an ejector mark and a smooth side. I put the smooth side out but then realised that it is flat. The ejector pin side is contoured to match the fuselage: After all the bending the lower fuselage needed some brutal filing to restore some mating edges. This took the stand slot away: Add air intake trunking: Gort and the seat do not measure up to the Freightdog one: Time for a new interior and seat: And painted up with some hypothetical red bits. I would demand a button that said "rocket booster!": I had glued the wings together and got the undercarriage in: glued up the fuselage: and cut my finger open when the blade broke when I was trying to make the front undercarriage door fit: I took this as a sign that it was time to make lunch... Next up was to remove the end of the tail fairing to get it off the trim tab, and to extend the front a bit: Reshape the canopy to use as a vacform master: Sand down the wings to get the undercarriage doors level. Note that the plastic has a yellow skin - dried moulded release agent? Components ready for assembly: Thogether and filled: Canopy is a plunge moulded, first try: And sprayed with Halfords white primer in the garden: So I should be able to finish this one! Thanks for looking, Adrian
  3. Its been a while since I posted anything on BM, life has really not been too kind lately, I had heart surgery last year and just as I was getting better I fell and broke my left arm. Since then I have moved house so posting anything has been a challenge. Now a kind member gave me some bits n bobs last year to help me make a Sea King from 771 Squadron based in my home county of Cornwall. I cannot thank that person enough but I've lost the PM's somewhere so, you know who you are and hopefully you'll be happy to see them being put to use. I have the Altmark decals and a Revell radome for a Navy Sea king. Just as another thing, I used to see these grey and red cabs all the time as a kid and my brother went on to serve with 771 Sqn as a diver for a number of years. I'm using the new tool Airfix kit of the RAF HAR3 as the base kit along with the Eduard PE set designed for the HC4 kit. As usual anything that is not right will be put right to make a decent Navy cab. This one will go on a small dio and will be displayed in flight, hence the altered rear wheel and the blades being cut off from the hub. A very long way to go yet, loads of scratch building and refining to do. So this is how far I have pushed the build. More photos later, but it looks like I need to find another photo host as PB is asking for a wad of green stuff from me to continue using them Regards Dan
  4. Messerschmitt Bf 110C–4 2177 5F+CM AX772 Originally of 4.(F)/14 intercepted by RAF fighters while on a reconnaissance mission on 21 July 1940. Forced down near Goodwood Racecourse, Sussex. The Royal Aircraft Establishment repaired this aircraft and after handling trials, was flown to the Air Fighting Development Unit at Duxford in October 1941. In March 1942 AX772 was transferred to No. 1426 Enemy Aircraft Flight at Collyweston until moving to the Enemy Aircraft Flight of the Central Flying School at Tangmere in January 1945. It was stored at No. 47 Maintenance Unit (MU) Sealand in November 1945. Scrapped in 1947. OOB except for added seatbelts, Vallejo and Humbrol acrylics, markings from spare decals
  5. First ever post on this forum so here goes... This is my attempt at the 1:600 HMS Iron Duke released many moons ago. The kit itself was a nightmare (to be expected given the age). Flash was off the charts, pieces wouldn't fit together without some serious filing/cutting/total removal of parts. I admit I made quite a few mistakes trying to glue things together (for example some of the boats are rather squint...) but the whole purpose of building this was to get some practice at ship modelling, being an aircraft modeller normally. I used an artwox wooden deck and vallejo paints plus pastels for weathering. Any constructive criticism would be gladly welcomed, my next build will be Trumpeters 1:350 HMS Dreadnought from 1915 in honour of my great grandfather who served aboard her during World War I.
  6. Hello everybody. I've been thinking about building this beauty for a while now and after looking for some info and possible builds to follow I have come to the conclusion that either I've stumbled upon a lesser known kit that people just don't know about (prolly not) or that it's a kit that's been started, become a pain right up the Harris (understatement) and relegated to the draw of doooom. The few I have seen together and finished are wonders to behold I'm fascinated by its enormity and sheer balls out crazyness. It has curtains!!!! For better of for worse I'm going to run at this with everything I've got. it's going to be OOB pretty much with some scratch work here and there. I hope you'll join me on this adventure of plastic and string. It's going to be fun!!!! I'm starting this thread to attach to my P38-RFI Currently it's sitting waiting for move one. Here is the obligatory box shot. isn't she brilliant! I've bought a couple of the windsock ref books and I'm planning on building the "last days" one. Here we are as of now. The mouldings don't look too bad and I think all the parts at there. Now the RFI has been done on my P-38 I'm looking forward to getting my teeth sunk into this. Updates soon. Take care and as always happy modelling guys. Johnny Stringbag.
  7. See Duck à l’orange -- my Airfix 1/76th (OO) scale DUKW with scratch built hang gliders (page on my web site) Not strictly a military vehicle, but I figured anyone interested would be more likely to find it here than in the non-military vehicle section.
  8. Next one to be built is this, the Airfix Hawker Typhoon. Will be using the kit decal as I thought the kit ones supplied with my Spitfire went on fairly well, but will be using the Brengun photo etch for cockpit and flaps, Master barrel set, Aviaeology stencil data decals, quick boost resin exhaust and Aires resin tail plains and wheels IMGA0931 by neil Connor, on Flickr Yay figured out Flickr IMGA0930 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0932 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0933 by neil Connor, on Flickr That's all the pictures I had taken before the photobucket situation started, needless to say its now at the start of the painting process.
  9. So recently i got hold of one of my favourite world war 2 aircraft. The bristol blenheim was an aircraft which was both a bomber and a fighter but lacked improving technology along with other aircraft. By the 1940s it was considered the blenheim to be too outdated and was too slow against enemy fighters. Pilots and crew were awarded medals just for flying in the aircraft. So onto the kit and to begin with there is a very nice box art. And also a choice of day or night fighter included. And also some very well produced details, which is common in airfix new tooled models. As expected the parts are very well made... To begin with the undercarriage bulkheads where fitted into place and the main frames were fitted into place also. A small bit of detail will be required but already a good start. Next the main fuselage was joined together. Work then began on the cockpit sections. Including pilots seat bombardiers position and interior components. With a basecoat of green down weathering will be done with a wash and details picked out. To finish off the evening i fitted all the parts together with a dry fit to see how well the fitments are. Details and wash will be done next before fitting everything into place. And i am also looking for referances if for addimg details and other parts. Thanks for looking.
  10. I got this 1/72 Airfix (E-3) B707 kit a couple of years ago from PacificMustang (Bruce) part started, well actualy almost finished as he did not want to finish it up. As I had already built a good old RAAF Seven Oh I pondered what I would use it for. Along came the Recce GB over on ARC and I decided I would use the Flightpath JSTARS conversion to bring it back to life. Wolfpak decals released a sheet with markings for 93-0597 which was originally delivered to QANTAS as a B707-338 VH-EBU. Double win! 72_AF_E-8C_03 by Ray Seppala, on Flickr Unfortunately, the aircraft suffered major damage during mid air refueling when a tank in the wing over pressurised and ruptured (due to a test plug being left in the fuel vent system after maintenance) back in 2009. In 2012 the aircraft was reported to have broken up and parted out in Al Udeid, Qatar. So I started on the E-8C today. Mostly scribing and drilling out cabin windows and doors. The engines needed some disassembly so I could fill the huge holes where the turbo compressor are attached on 3 of the engines. The Flightpath conversion comes with a number of scribing templates. I had to carve out some of the fuselage for a missing cabin door Also had to fill some poorly rescribed panel lines and fill some for the new rear cabin doors at the trailing edge of the wing root. Finally I glued the missing etch door to the fuselage. That's it for now
  11. It's been a while since I've done a WIP, as I've been busy with non-Spitfire builds, but, having recently purchased DK Decals Spitfire V aces sheet and some KP kits from MJW Models, it's time to do one. This is the decal sheet: I'll be doing the Bader Va, using an Airfix kit, and five (or six) Vbs before progressing to MkIXs, MkVIIIs, MkXVIs, Mk22s and a Mk24 (there may even be a MkVI, MkXI, MkXII and Mk21). My problem is that I can't decide which ones to do so I've decided to ask you good people to suggest some (what could go wrong with a referendum?). Please let me know which ones you like and I'll do the most popular.
  12. I thought that this would be an ideal subject for this Group Build. Produced by British Executive and General Aviation Limited (BEAGLE) the Basset 206 had it's first flight at Shoreham in August 1961. After a fly-off between the Basset 206 and DH Devon as a replacement aircraft for the Anson, an order was placed by the RAF for 20 B206R's (Basset CC1) and this will be the subject for this build. I will be a little while starting because I have a couple of builds going on in other GB's to complete first, but hopefully there will be enough time left to squeeze in a second build that will allow me to make something outside of my comfort zone again.
  13. Well, having finally sorted myself out & found all the bits I thought I had, but couldn't find, here's my entry for my first GB: It's the well known Airfix kit, with 3D Kits Mk.II LR conversion, to which I hope to add the Quickboost seat & Pavla improved parts. I may leave off the Pavla vacform canopies as I've only once tried to use one of these & it didn't end well!
  14. Well here she is. A labour of love, only additions are an Eduard cockpit, Yahu Instrument panel and HGW fabric seatbelt.
  15. I checked in as a ‘new member’ some time ago and wondered if I would ever move from ‘collecting’ to ‘modelling’ again. The opportunity was thrust upon me when I got that 7-day flu bug thing last month and felt so unwell that I even stayed off work for a day! This brought back the memory of what I would do if ill as a kid at Primary School and one occasion came back to me when I was confined to bed but handed an Airfix FW190D (red stripe, bagged) by a sympathetic parent. As others have said, the form in those days was build in a day, paint and decals on by the next day, although in my early days, I didn’t even stop to paint. So in doing this build to re-create the therapeutic effect, I felt I wanted to build OOB, undercarriage up in flight mode (always my favourite), build using cement not liquid glue, take the fit as it comes with no filling, then paint with Humbrol enamels using brushes. I had a lap tray on which to contain the build and materials and this proved handy in the later stages when putting away between sessions. So, away I went – what did I have in the stash but a red stripe bagged FW190D (wow, the ‘box art’ takes me back!) but also a ‘blister’ version with the same picture. The bagged kit is from the right era but my ‘collector’ gene kicked in and I decided to ‘keep’ that and build the kit in the blister pack. However, this means I will miss out on the ‘locate and cement…’ style instructions as the blister pack version is visual only. Only 24 pieces in this kit and the long nose shape looks great – being young back then, this was the ‘real’ shape for an FW190 and I can remember being a bit puzzled when I saw later kits of the FW190A with the big and short nose with radial engine, which just wasn’t right to my eyes! First off, propeller mounted to the engine front and glued to the spindle without seizing up – I left the fit a bit loose rather than pressing hard together - fantastic, when I blow, the propeller spins freely so I’m looking forward to possibly taking a final action photo with the airstream provided by a hairdryer. I’m over the moon because I only ever thought you were able to do this on kits with radial engines due to the longer spindle lengths through the engine blocks – in this case, the spindle goes through a separate cowling rather than just the fuselage front. Fuselage together and pilot glued to his ‘pins’ – no seat in this kit. Wing sections glued together OK but now realising that this kit has flash which needs trimmed off with a craft knife and the fit of the wings and stabilisers to the fuselage isn’t good. The fuselage has a distinct seam which I sanded with an emery board (for fingernails) and the front will need trimming before the engine cowling can go on – in fact, while trying to press it all together for a dry fit, I broke a propeller blade! Just for comparison, I opened up the bagged version of the kit, which I believe was made perhaps some 10 years earlier and tried a dry fit of the main components – very very much better without any trimming required! Was a quality control problem creeping in with Airfix kits? So, engine cowling on, glued the propeller blade back on, then stabilisers and this is where the cement comes into its own – as it dries, I can ‘babysit’ the final ‘square’ position of both sides by constantly checking/adjusting as they harden up. Wings on and there seems to be a tremendous dihedral! (I’ve seen someone else make that comment as well). The kit instructions say 7 degrees but I can’t get that technical – the wings need to sit as they fit with as little gap as possible top and bottom. (Some time later, I measured the height of the wingtips above, reminded myself of basic geometry and calculated the dihedral as approx. 13 degrees! Oh well…) As I said earlier, my younger self always built the kits with undercarriage up and here I had to return to the written instructions for the bagged kit to find that the locating pins had to be cut off the undercarriage legs to allow them to fit in the wheel wells – also the wheel spindles but I had to work that out for myself. The legs were not such a good fit when glued in place but that may have been due to my eyesight during trimming – must do better. Also, I later realised when looking at the re-tooled FW190D-9 kit from 1978 that you should actually be able to see part of the main undercarriage wheels when stowed – not so on this early kit but again, younger self not aware of this sort of detail. Air intake, tailwheel, cannons and aerial (what an awkward position!) on and clear stand assembled – broke that also as this later version has two pins to mate the upright to the base and was a bad fit, rather than the solid tab on the version in the bagged kit which could no doubt stand a bit more robust assembly – not an improvement for the better! I’ll leave the canopy off until the pilot is painted. I just noticed the bulges in the upper wing surfaces were not aligned with the 20mm cannons in the inboard positions – a bit of investigation revealed that the FW190D-13 may have had these bulges for the extra 30mm cannons in the outer wings and the kit header is more specific in confirming the kit is indeed representative of this model (although the blister and bagged kits disagree in listing armament and neither list the additional outer wing cannons). This means then that I will have to remember to paint in the additional 20mm cannon firing through the engine and spinner. Ready to paint… Need to sort the colours out – the instructions say ‘M25’ for the fuselage and undersurfaces and M3/M17 combination in splinter camouflage for the upper surfaces and fuselage mottling in M13/M2? It looks like you also paint in the visible section of the main undercarriage wheels if the undercarriage is up. There is a yellow band on the fuselage in M15. What are these colours? – back again to the written instructions for the bagged kit and it says quite simply Pale Blue / Olive Green M.3 / Dark Green (with no painting in of wheels) I had to search on the Intranet to check Airfix/Humbrol colours and M25 comes up as Matt Aircraft Blue / Hu65, which is indeed a pale blue. Olive Green M3 comes up as Matt Dark Green Hu30 so what will I use for ‘Dark Green'? M17 is Matt Bronze Green at Hu75. How about a search for ‘Olive Green’? There is light Olive at Hu86 and Olive Drab at Hu66 (too dark) and Hu155. I’ll stick with the Hu30. M15 is Hu99 ‘Matt Lemon’. The M13/M2 colours are greys rather than greens and certainly the header picture seems to support that but I think I'll stick to the colours on the bagged kit - that's what my younger self would have done. Black is easy so pilot painted with a black jacket and brown leather helmet – needed the magnifying glass to paint on face and goggle lenses and could see pretty good detail on the plastic. (The bagged kit instructions suggested painting the pilot before gluing in but his head and shoulders will only be visible. I did run the brush down his back but didn’t think it worth painting on seat straps). Propeller blades painted in black and spinner in Hu30 as a test – does indeed look like Olive so will use as the lighter colour on the top surfaces. Cockpit surround lip also painted in Olive and I will glue on the canopy with PVA glue which dries clear to avoid a frosty look (picked up that tip from other model build reviews). Got so enthusiastic that I painted the cowling - why?? Exhaust stubs initially painted in brown (rust same as for RAF fighters?). When painting the exhaust stubs, I noticed that there are 7 each side - is this a 14-cylinder Jumo 213 rather than a 12? I think I will consider the front ‘stubs’ to be simply cowlings and paint them pale blue rather than brown or black (as on some reference pictures I saw). Note, references now readily available on the Internet were not available when I was young so the kit painting instructions and box art would be the only guide. Canopy frame painted by hand – needed the magnifying glass again and used a hard plastic stick to gently ‘draw’ the paint on the raised canopy detail – looks OK at a distance but I must think up a better way without masking – I never painted canopies when I was young. Stuck the canopy on with the PVA glue – looks good and you now get ‘an impression’ of the pilot behind. Later, I realised that there is a ‘spine’ of canopy along the top – very faint - so I resorted to masking tape for that. Also, the painting instructions on the blister kit indicate that the wing roots are painted in olive/green colours where the bagged kit indicates pale blue – the wing root gives a clear line to paint to so I’ll try that. Painted the fuselage and undersurfaces with the pale blue – lovely colour and will need a second coat – reminded myself to be patient and not to apply a thick coat for speed, which would start to obscure the surface detail. At the wing edges, I used the ‘flick-off’ method with the brush to try to create a straight edge at the joint in the wing halves – usually works well. Painted the upper wings with the Matt Olive Hu66 but this turned out darker than the Hu30 (already on the spinner) so will have to be used as the dark green. Second coat of the pale blue on fuselage and undersurfaces – looks good. Mottling with dark green on the fuselage upper surfaces – got my smallest brush and cut the bristles really short to ’stipple’ – must be a good scale equivalent of the brush used by the ground crew? Quite hard to resist an even mottle and achieve the grading to heavier mottle on the top surface Repainted the spinner but the photo shows I missed a bit! Used Tamiya masking tape to create the lines for the splinter camouflage on the wings and stabilisers upper surfaces – tried to follow the pattern shown on the painting instructions of the bagged kit. Also masked the rear fuselage for the yellow band and there is actually a couple of handy raised panel lines – not shown on the bagged kit painting instructions but is included on the ‘box-art’ picture on the paper header. Painted on the Hu30 Olive and looks great. Painted the yellow band and this needed two coats. Removed the masking and touched in a couple of places on the Dark Green where the Olive had bled under the masking tape – at raised panel lines. Also re-visited the spinner. Decided to revisit the exhaust stubs to do again in black and took the opportunity to add some Pale Blue between some of them to show the covering panel set-up as I have seen in some reference photos. Not going to add any exhaust staining or weathering. Added a dot of black paint on the spinner to represent the additional cannon and finally glued on the bomb – this interferes a bit with the stand but can give the model a climbing bank if you set it right. Painting finished – time for decals or transfers as they were known by my younger self. The decals with the blister kit look fine but I was going to save these with the bagged kit and use the ones from the bagged kit which have suffered some sort of dirty water damage. Considering my options…decided to use those from the bagged kit. Decals go on OK but there is yellowing due to age – not too bad but most noticeable on the pale blue undersides. Is there a solution to making the yellowing disappear? Once the decals were on, a brush coating of matt cote varnish was applied – the first time I have used it - really improves the overall consistency of the colours and hopefully protects / anchors the decals. Added a radio aerial from rear cockpit canopy to tail and it is finished! Locked down the stand with bluetac and tried for an ‘action’ shot with airstream provided by a hairdryer. It works! I really enjoyed that build and found that the big pleasure was in the painting and seeing the simple model come alive. Raised panel lines and rivets are fine by me as that’s the way it was back then. I tried to keep it as close to what I would have done as a youngster as possible but the additional fact-finding and comparisons were very interesting. I think it proves that a return to modelling for us older members can be fun rather than purgatory.
  16. My take on the Airfix 2009 tool sorta-MiG-15; I say that because when you put it next to the Eduard kit the differences are very apparent. It looks nice enough in isolation though. I added an Eduard photoetch cockpit set, but you can't really see much of it in the photos. This kit was a would be victim of the hardwood floor monster (closely related to the carpet monster), who conveniently rematerialised the canopy, which I had dropped earlier, directly underneath my foot. Fortunately, I have a second copy of the kit and was able, after much swearing, to smash-form a suitable replacement. Eduard masks greatly simplified the task of masking the wheels and canopy. Update: The eagle-eyed amongst you will have noticed that I installed the inner gear doors on the wrong sides. Well-spotted, and now, after more cursing, they are fixed! IMG_20170715_151625.jpg by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170715_151617.jpg by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170715_151607.jpg by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170715_151617.jpg by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170715_151607.jpg by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170715_151557.jpg by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170715_151548.jpg by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170715_151538.jpg by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170715_151526.jpg by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170715_151701.jpg by Russell Taylor, on Flickr
  17. Hi folk's, I had this set of decal's and mask's from a few year's ago and as I'm into a 1/32 groove at the moment not very likely to use them so this GB and just over a fiver for Airfix's great little kit time to go small again,should be fun as the codes need to be painted on.Here's the box and decal's. And the now well known contents.
  18. I havent seen this version finished so I thought I would put mine up. I do like the yellow RAF rescue helicopters as the last picture wll testify. This is a superb kit and the interior detail is very good shame a lot cant seen if the doors are shut. I have however opened the aircraft up I did the kit version but have just notice that i missed off the directional spot at the rear of the fusalage. Too late now. I had a spare air filter from a revell kit so I used that instead and when the airfix decals went on and the microset had done its job I was rather pleased with the result. Otherwise all straight out of the box Very good value kit will be buying more. Normal rules view from 5ft Rodders ooops that blade nees bending down A theme is developing here :-)
  19. Test for GOOGLE photo sharing https://goo.gl/photos/oQnaGRkB2Y5Gzr5cA https://goo.gl/photos/yRGgHHnEwikSKTRM6
  20. Hello I have just started a new build - the very new Airfix set - B-17 in 1/72 scale. First video is as always with an unboxing (maybe some of you think of buying this set - see it first).
  21. Hot off the workbench, so hot it still needs a tweak or two here and there, it's the Airfix 1/72 Spitfire Mk.IX (2008 tool) in Johnnie Johnson's markings. The white of the invasion stripes was sprayed on, then I drybrushed the black to try to make the stripes look hastily painted and somewhat worn: IMG_20170710_231328 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170710_231315 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170710_231307 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170710_231256 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170710_231245 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170710_231235 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr
  22. I haven't finished an armour model in about 27 years so I thought this would be a nice straightforward way to get my feet wet again. It's the Airfix 1/76 Panzer VI Königstiger (King Tiger). Except for the too short tracks, it is a super little kit: IMG_20170710_190128 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170710_190123 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170710_190116 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170710_190031 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr IMG_20170710_190003 by Russell Taylor, on Flickr
  23. Hi Fellow Modellers, Just thought I'd share my latest offering, Airfix's 1/72 recently re-tooled Typhoon 1B. Cracking kit no real issues. Next time I'll probably spray the yellow leadig edges.....the decals are a SOB to fit One mistake I made was to fit the launch rails before I'd put on the invasion stripes so it morphed into the 'plain' version you see here. I've often overdone the weathering on my builds(to say the least) so I eased back on this one and I'm quite pleased with the result. Any way here goes(three cheers for Google Photos) Comments and critique most welcome.
  24. For me, there's something quintessentially British about the Boulton-Paul Defiant. A misconceived oddball that nevertheless went on to find roles that the designer would never have dreamed of. Crews that, despite being outmatched, kept on fighting. I think of it as the fighter equivalent of the Fairey Battle, and I've always had a soft spot for it. So, of all the possible candidates, it seemed a good fit for this GB. I had a four month hiatus from modelling from November last year. I think that helped me consider my approach: it had been all about the detail before, PE, resin. But I'd neglected some basic skills. I finally located my airbrush as well, something I'd never learned to use. So the focus now is on getting good results from plastic. This won't be my first airbrushed kit; that "honour" goes to a Spitfire PRXVII. But it will be my first attempt at camo with an airbrush. And it won't be wholly devoid of aftermarket, as I'm going to try the Eduard steelbelts (I cordially detest PE seatbelts so that could go out the window!) Here's the obligatory uncut sprues: The kit has two very similar marking options: PS-V of 264 Squadron in July 1940, or KO-I of 2 Squadron in September 1940. I prefer PS-V as it has a slight tie-in to my preference to build aircraft that served in bases local to me (in this case, Duxford, where 264 spent some time in 1940, though in July they were at Martlesham Heath). At the time, the squadron was resting and training after its efforts over Dunkirk, and the various photos that I can find show little fading and only some exhaust staining, so I'm not going to weather it too much. Cheers, Chris
  25. I'm hooked on this modeling lark... I just can't get enough of the plastic, glue and paint fumes it would seem! I've just finished a vintage P-38 Lightning and I thought that the decent thing to do would be to build the iconic English Electric version. I've read good things about the recent Airfix offering and after reading the review on here I grabbed one before they disappear as apparently Airfix have discontinued them?! Anyway, obligatory box shot: I'll be building the NMF version 'XS927' based in Singapore as I although the grey toned one was tempting, I've already got a Harrier in a similar scheme... besides I always thing of a NMF scheme when I think of a EE Lightning. Here's some shots of the real thing: So first off, the internals need painting and assembling. This starts with the air scoop and exhausts. For the air scoop I thought I'd so some practice runs of the NMF as most of this is barely visible. After removing some horrible ejector pin marks and sanding back smooth I applied some Tamiya X-18, semi-gloss black. After this had cured overnight I sprayed Humbrol Metalcote from the tin after diluting 1:1 with white spirit. This has created a pretty good finish: ...but I'm not happy. I want a really solid NMF and after some research on here and other sites I've settled on some AK Interactive Metal paints. I've purchased the undercoat (black), chrome, aluminum and polished aluminium (two variations of aluminium to ensure different contrasts). Looking at the real thing, it's not polished all over so I'll base it with aluminium and highlight some panels with polished. I'll also darken some panels as per the picture... Looking forward to experimenting with this stuff! I've also grabbed their protective gloss coat which is supposed to enhance the finish instead of using Clear. This next shot shows Tamiya Chrome on the right in comparison to Humbrol Metalcote on the left. This is another little experiment to see if I needed the AK chrome... clearly I do! I want these bits gleaming as per the box art. I've added some extra detail to the top of the cockpit tub: Not much will be seen as the opening is tiny so I've left the rest alone. I will however go to town on the ejector seat which is really basic. Here it is halfway through with mock seat belts and buckles made from Tamiya tape and wire. This needs refining, painting and weathering: Finally here are the assembled air scoops and exhausts. As you can see I'll need to fill and re-paint the nose section as this was very warped and didn't fit together very well at all: That's it for today! Hope you've enjoyed. JB