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Found 612 results

  1. Hi All, This was a two year long odyssey, most of which was finished in the month of January. The build thread with its woeful photos is HERE. This is the best model kit I've ever had the pleasure of building. Practically flawless fit, beautiful mouldings and clever, well-designed construction with sensible instructions and build progression. Well worth the £130-odd quid the kit retails at. I also used the three Hasegawa PE sets, which help you realise exactly what quality PE is, quite a lot better than even the mighty WEM/GMM manage to produce. I paid £80 for the kit, and the same for the PE and still think it's a bargain! The Agano-class of four ships were meant to replace the otherwise-needed Tenryu, Sendai and Nagara-class of interwar-built light cruisers in the destroyer leader role. Although fast and fine-looking ships, they were barely better armed than a Kagero-class destroyer with just six 6-in guns and a light AA armament of two twin 3-in and four 25mm mounts as built. Their strength was their speed, heavy torpedo armament and aircraft handling facilities featuring two "Jake" floatplanes. Of the four built, only one survived the war - Agano fell prey to US submarines as did her sister Noshiro. Yahagi escorted the Yamato on her final kamikaze sortie in April 1945, joining her at the bottom of the Pacific. Sakawa was captured intact and used for repatriation of troops until being expended as a target in the Bikini atomic tests in 1946. All photos as ever credit to IPMS Farnborough, taken by the ever-patient Chris Bradley! Happy to answer any questions etc, Al
  2. Next in the cabinet is the Erich Harmann’s Bf109G-6 in temporary winter camo. The kit is the well known Hasegawa JT48 and is actually quite good. I added some Eduard parts for the cockpit, wheel bays and flaps. Painting was done the original way. I started with the standard mottled scheme and over sprayed it with the temporary winter scheme. The nose Tulip was also sprayed instead using the decals. During the process I ruined the Erla Haube and I had to order a complete new kit for this item alone, Luckily there is also a classic hood included in the kit so I can still build a new Bf109G-14. Thanks for watching.
  3. Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden, (Jack) 1:32 Hasegawa History The J2M was designed by Jiro Horikoshi, creator of the A6M Zero to meet the 14-Shi (14th year of the Showa reign, or 1939) official specification. It was to be a strictly local-defence interceptor, intended to counter the threat of high-altitude bomber raids, and thus relied on speed, climb performance, and armament at the expense of manoeuvrability. The J2M was a sleek, but stubby craft with its over-sized Mitsubishi Kasei engine buried behind a long cowling, cooled by an intake fan and connected to the propeller with an extension shaft. Pilot visibility was poor, but a domed canopy introduced later in production partially alleviated this concern. Teething development problems stemming from the Kasei engine, unreliable propeller pitch change mechanism and the main undercarriage members led to a slowdown in production. A continual set of modifications resulted in new variants being introduced with the ultimate high-altitude variant, the J2M4 Model 34 flying for the first time in August 1944. It had a 1,420 hp Kasei 23c engine equipped with a turbo supercharger (mounted in the side of the fuselage just behind the engine) that allowed the rated power to be maintained up to 30,000 ft. Two upward-aimed, oblique-firing (aimed at seventy degrees) twenty mm cannons, mounted in the German Schräge Musik style, were fitted behind the cockpit with the four wing cannons retained. Unresolved difficulties with the turbo supercharger caused the project to be terminated after only two experimental J2M4s were built. The first few produced J2M2s were delivered to the development units in December 1942 but severe problems were encountered with the engines. Trials and improvements took almost a year and the first batch of the serial built J2M2 Model 11 was delivered to 381st Kokutai in December 1943. Parallel with the J2M2, production of the J2M3 Raiden Model 21 started. The first J2M3s appeared in October 1943 but deliveries to combat units started at the beginning of February 1944. The Raiden made its combat debut in June 1944 during the Battle of the Philippine Sea. Several J2Ms operated from Guam and Saipan and a small number of aircraft were deployed to the Philippines. Later, some J2Ms were based in chosen airfields for defending these areas and fighting against Soviet Naval Aviation units. Primarily designed to defend against the Boeing B-29 Superfortress, the lack of a turbocharger handicapped the aircraft at high altitude. However, its four-cannon armament supplied effective firepower and the use of dive and zoom tactics allowed it to score occasionally. Insufficient numbers and the American switch to night bombing in March 1945 limited its effectiveness. Two captured J2Ms were U.S. Technical Air Intelligence Command (TAIC) tested using 92 octane fuel plus methanol, with the J2M2 (Jack11) achieving a speed of 655 km/h (407 mph) at 5,520 m (17,400 ft), and J2M3 (Jack21) achieving a speed of 671 km/h (417 mph) at 4,980 m (16,600 ft). The Model This kit was originally released in 2011 as one of Hasegawas 70th anniversary release schedule. This version is released as a limited edition with the markings of aircraft from the 302nd Flying Group. Since the moulds are still fairly new there is no sign of wear, so no flash and only one or two moulding pips too. The moulding is very nicely done, with fine recessed panel lines and fastener details as we’ve come to expect from Hasegawa. There are eight sprues of grey styrene and three of clear plus four vinyl retainers. The instructions are relatively clear and easy to read, in an A4 sized booklet format. The build starts with the cockpit and the instrument panel, which is attached to the forward bulkhead has moulded instrument bezels, but uses four blocks of decals for the faces. Depending on how these settle it might be an idea to fit each face separately, much like using an Airscale set. A drop of Aqua gloss or Kleer can be used to seal the decals, with the added advantage of drying to look like the instrument glass. The seat bucket is fitted with a support arm each side whilst the rear bulkhead is adorned with the seat adjustment bracket, adjustment handle, headrest and rear armoured plate. The radio set is assembled from four parts and fitted to the rear shelf, which is then attached to the rear of the bulkhead, with the seat assembly attached to the front. The sidewalls have well defined details moulded onto them and this is enhanced with additional parts and decals. The cockpit floor is fitted with the a console on the port side which also has a couple of smaller parts fitted, followed by the throttle lever on the port side floor, rudder pedals, joystick, undercarriage and flap levers on the starboard floor. The sub-assemblies are then fitted together, creating the sturdy cockpit structure. There are two parts that look like harness attachments fitted one per side of the headrest support structure, but the harness will need to be sourced from an aftermarket company as it is not included in the kit. What the kit does include is a very well moulded multi part pilot, with front and rear torso, separate legs and arms, including an alternative right arm plus three styles of head, one with a mask and oxygen hose, one with the leather helmet open and one with the helmet fastened up. Fitted with the separate parachute pack and after a careful painting session it will make a nice addition to the completed model no matter what flying state it is in. If you’re not going to use the pilot then Hasegawa have provided a separate seat cushion to be fitted. With the cockpit and pilot assembled it’s onto the fuselage. There are five bulkheads of various sizes and shapes to be fitted to the starboard side followed by the cockpit assembly. Inside the port fuselage a square hole has to be opened up and a lever assembly passed through, I believe this may be a canopy opening lever and only used on two of the aircraft options. The fuselage can then be closed up. The wing assembly begins with the assembly of the front spar, rear bulkhead and adjoining structure. This is then attached to the single piece lower wing section with the spar just aft of the wheel wells. There is also a block to be attached between the well bays and two strengthening spars attached to the outer sections of the wing. Before fitting the upper wing sections it should be decided whether the external fuel tank is going to be used or not as the flashed over holes will need to be opened up in the lower wing. On the insides of the upper wing sections the gun troughs also need opening up. The upper wings can now be attached to the lower wing and two clear parts, which I presume are some form of formation lighting are fitted to the top of each upper wing. The fuselage assembly is attached to the wing assembly, whilst the two part horizontal tailplanes are attached to the rear fuselage. The gun barrels, gun fairings, pitot probe and clear navigation lights are now attached. Next up is the assembly of the main undercarriage, each made up of the main oleo, two part scissor link, two part tyre, poly retainer, inner and outer hubs and main bay door. The inner doors are attached to the fuselage with their associated retraction linkages while the outer doors are fitted to the outer edge of the bay adjacent to the oleo attachment. The tail wheel, tail cone and a pair of lower wing panels are attached, followed by the main undercarriage assemblies. The optional drop tank consists of two halves with separate horizontal tail fins. Once complete it can be attached to the aircraft, between the undercarriage bays. With the main structure complete it’s on with the powerplant. Firstly the modeller will need to decide which of the two types of propeller blades to use, either the standard type or the high performance type. Each of the separate blades are then fitted to the hub and enclosed with the spinner, while to the rear a locating propshaft is attached. The cowling is then completed with an air intake fitted to underside of the single piece cowling and two blanks to be fitted to the upper machine gun trough. The internal structure is then assembled from the ducting, fixed stator with poly retainer fitted and rotating fan blades. This structure is fitted to the inside of the cowling. The engine is made up of the front and rear cylinder banks, two sets of valve rods at the front plus the intake and exhaust manifolds to the rear. The completed engine is then attached to the fuselage followed by the cowling and finally the propeller. The build continues with the attachment of a clear “armoured windscreen” and support structure to the upper decking between the cockpit and the cowling, plus optional Type 4 or Type 98 gun sight. The main windscreen is fitted out with a pair of grab handles, and then fitted to the front of the cockpit once the upper deck assembly has been attached. The two separate gun bay panels for the upper wings are fitted followed by the aerial and side window support structure, side windows, and canopy, and that is the build complete. Decals The quite large decal sheet provides markings for three aircraft, each of the 302nd Fighter Group. the colour schemes are the same for each aircraft and only the serial numbers changed and the 1st option having a yellow band around the rear fuselage. The decals are all nicely printed, in good register and with very little carrier film, even around the instrument blocks. While the decals appear to have been gloss once they seem to have lost the gloss coat and are now quite matt. They should settle well though on a good gloss coat with suitable setting and softening solutions. followed by a coat of gloss varnish followed by a coat of matt varnish. Conclusion I’ve always liked the Raiden, and this is very nice looking kit of a great looking aircraft. This will also make for a good alternative to the complex ZM release and also a fair bit cheaper. If you are going to comment on this review, please don’t bang on about Hasegawa pricing, as this one is actually quite reasonable. The detail is superb out of the box, but if you want to go the extra mile then the usual companies already have aftermarket parts for this kit. So if you fancy having a Raiden in your collection you can’t really go wrong with this one. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  4. A pair of the finest Japanese sports cars -- either one you'd love to own, but only one costs the best part of a million dollars. Both excellent-looking curbside Hasegawa kits. Tamiya spray for the bodies: Racing White and Maroon (actually chestnut brown...) They're quite hard to photograph together, since the camera likes to assume that the Toyota is white (it's actually pale cream), and exposing for both dark brown and almost white in the same image is taxing, especially in artificial light. Wheels in Zero Paints graphite grey with bright silver highlights. The tyre tread diameter is the same, but the 240Z has much smaller wheels/deeper tyres... The interiors are under way, but they are both a symphony in blacks... though the 2000GT has some rather cool rosewood veneer highlights... bestest, M.
  5. Lightning F.6 11 Sqn RAF Binbrook 1976 Yes, I know I should have just got on with that new Airfix Lightning, but this one had been in the pending pile for so many years that I just had to finish it. This is the Hasegawa / Frog / Revell F6 kit which I rescribed. I also fitted a new forward belly tank with guns so that I could use the big 11 Sqn fin badge from the Xtradecal sheet which was designed for F3s. Probably like most of us I have a few more Frog F6 kits in the attic and even though Airfix have now surpassed those old kits (thankyou, thankyou, thankyou Airfix) I'm sure I will still use a few from time to time because they are just pure nostalgia! XR773 / D was in the static park at the 1976 IAT at Greenham Common so I used one of my old slides to finish it. Alclad over polished Halfords grey primer (polished with toothpaste and elbow grease) and then a few brushed coats of Klear to give that grey / aluminium look and to ensure the decals went down well
  6. Finally got this done. This is the first Hasegawa Lanc I've built, and on the whole, it's pretty good. The landing gear design is a bit naff with a separate parts joining the two main legs which kept breaking throughout the build and the canopy needed the escape panel moving. Built using the CMK surfaces set which gives ailerons, flaps and complete tail feathers with separate parts and the Pavla replacement radiator intakes. The squadron codes are a bit low, and also a little small in height looking at photographs. It was painted using Gunze dark earth lightened with white and Tamiya XF81 dark green also lightened with white. The under surfaces were predominantly Tamiya sky grey with a bit of blue grey and white mixed in. The build thread is here Thanks to Chrisrope for donating a tail wheel from an airfix kit as the Hasegawa one is far too big, cheers mate It represents PD131 serving with 15 Sqn in 1946. This aircraft formerly served with 617Sqn. Anyway, hope you like it. Thanks for looking, Neil
  7. ASF-X Shinden II "Kei Nagase Color" Hasegawa 1:72 Limited Edition In 2008 Taiga Heavy Industries was commissioned by the Ministry of Defence to begin developing the ASF-X. In 2014 the CTOL ASF-X-10 prototype 40-8011 made its maiden flight. After an additional year of testing it was formally accepted by the Ministry of Defence. 40-8011 as a test aircraft had problems with its electrical system, and structural cracking. Data from this was fed into the second prototype. In 2016 the second STOVL ASF-X-02 60-8002 was accepted by the Ministry of Defence and subjected to additional testing. Ultimately two of each prototype participated in in research and development programme. By this time the design showed every promise of living up to its proud name "Shinden II" According to legend the "Kei Nagase Color" paint scheme has its origins in the pre-development of the aircraft, when experiments were being undertaken for painting the airframe with a special stealth paint. Masking of reinforcement points resulted in a black and orange appearance which test pilot Kei Nagase found very appealing. In response mechanics later painted the units aircraft in this scheme. Source Ace Combat in the skies, ASCII Media works. Ace Combat Ace Combat is a Japanese hybrid arcade-simulation flight action video game published by the Namco Bandai Games company. Most games take place in fictionalised worlds loosely based on real life location, events and even wars. These games have been released on many different gaming platforms from 1996 up till the present. Over the years in Japan typical aircraft model kits have been detailed after aircraft used in the games. Hasegawa tapped into this market in 2000 with the issues of some 1.144 resin model kits, and has continued to do so ever since, as they have done so with the Idolmaster series as well, giving them another outlet for plastic model kits. The Kit On opening the box you are greeted by the two main fuselage halves and an additional 5 sprues all in a dark grey plastic. A large clear sprue for the stand, and a small clear sprue for the canopy. The quality of all parts is top notch as you would expect from Hasegawa. Detail is a mix of fine panel lines, and raised detail where it is needed. There is no flash evident any where. Construction starts with adding all the internal detail to the lower fuselage half. Engines and the vectored thrust nozzle are made up and added (the vectored flight nozzle can be positioned in normal or STOVL flight modes). The air intake is then made up and added to the top fuselage half. The tail units must be added at this stage, care must be taken with glue as these are designed to move. Once these are added the fuselage can then be closed up. If you are going to add under wing stores then its important to open up the holes before closing up the fuselage. Following the the wing tips are added. Two different parts are provided depending on whether you wish to model the aircraft in normal or STOVL flight. The cockpit is moulded into the upper fuselage but you still have to add an instrument panel, ejection seat and pilot figure (if you want). Following this landing gear can be added, and the gear doors positioned. These are also designed to be positioned closed if you are doing your model in flight, however you will need to remove the mounting tabs. The last thing to do is to add the underwing stores if you are using them. There are six pylons which you can fill with all air-2-air missles or a combination of missiles and rocket pods. Six missiles (which look like AMMRAM's) and four rocket pods are provided. Canopy The canopy for this kit is a one part affair. It is clear and crisp with no distortions. As well as the canopy the kit contains a large clear sprue which is stand should the modeller wish to display the model "in flight". This is a welcome addition to the kit and I hope Hasegawa include it in more. In a break from normal tradition the slot for the stand is cut in the model, and if you are not using the stand then a blanking plate is provided. Decals One of the stars of this kit is the massive decal sheet which just about fills the bottom of the box. The aircraft features a two tone paint scheme similar in many ways to the F-22 and F-35 minus the orange! The second shade of grey and orange are all provided as decal. Care will be needed with the larger ones, and outline decals as the inside is not all clear decal film; though this will help prevent large scale silvering. The decals are well printed and with care and the appropriate setting solutions should look very good when finished. Conclusion While there may not be as much excitement outside of Japan for these kits, they are excellent models and can be recommended if you want to build something different. As the part count if fairly low and the subject somewhat different from the norm this might be an ideal kit to get for a younger modeller to encourage them. Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  8. Kit: Hasegawa 1:32 ‘Nowotny’ edition. Paint: All Tamiya & Lifecolour acrylics. MIG weathering pigments (wheels & tyres). Decals: Eagle Cals, MicroScale & kit. Extras: Eduard ‘Zoom’ set. Cut & dropped elevators. Cut & repositioned tail wheel & rudder. Brake lines from various gauges of fuse wire. Master MG17 barrels (not in photo). Focke-Wulf Fw190A-5 5 Staffel I/JG54 Operation ‘Zitadelle’ Summer 1943 ….and we’re done. Thoroughly enjoyed this project. Kit went together with the minimum of fuss. Camouflage came-out exactly as it looked in my head before I began, something that doesn’t happen too often. Especially happy with the weathering on the underside and the way the MIG pigments settled in to the main wheels & tyres giving a dry/dusty ‘feel’. Built for the ‘Battle of Kursk’ Campaign/Group Build on www.modelersalliance.com . As ever happy to take any questions, criticism and comments. Thanks for taking the time to look, I’m off now to start decaling my TF-104…. That’s going to keep me busy for a while !! Ian
  9. Hasegawa 787

    Hello, just a quick question, does anyone know why this kit has a choice of two keel inserts? The second, unused, one appears to be thinner and lacks the lumps and bumps of the other one. Cheers, Andrew
  10. Well I am calling this one done. First completion in quite a few months and first for the year. It was started last year for a club Dambuster build. AJ-N, also known as ED912 had two RAAF Crew: Pilot Officer Leslie Gordon Knight, the pilot Flight Sergeant Robert George Thomas Kellow the Wireless operator. The club display was based around Australians in the raid and the aircraft they flew. ED912 attacked the Eder dam between 01:30 and 02:00 (17/05/43) and was the third aircraft to attack the dam. It performed one dummy run then went in for his final attack, the Upkeep hit the dam perfectly and breached it . The codeword "DINGHY" for a breach in the Eder was relayed to Harris, Wallis and Cochrane at Grantham.
  11. Finally got round to starting this after picking it up at one of the shows this year for £29. So, the plan... To do one of the day schemes as a change! CMK surfaces set (ordered) - use the flaps lowered and possibly the tail parts slightly off neutral. Pavla larger intakes if they are correct for this aircraft????? Eduard zoom set for cockpit Correct the escape hatch position on the canopy and use Eduard masks As well as the questions I've posted in the WWII section, got some questions for those that have built the Hase kit... Has anyone used the CMK control surfaces set - if so, any advice? Anything to watch out for the Hase kit in general? Have you fitted the wings after painting or before? Quite fancy fitting the wings at the end to ease access. Shrouded / unshrouded exhausts? Treaded or untreaded tyres? Here's where I'm up to so far. Made some seatbelts and arm rests for the pilots seat, strangely, the Eduard Zoom set doesn't have the seatbelts included. Also filled the side windows which were omitted on later aircraft. A few need a bit more filling to hide them. Cheers
  12. This is my second completion for the year. It is the Idolmaster boxing of the 1/48 Hasegawa F/A-18F Super Hornet. This is the first 1/48 kit I completed in about 10 years. It was nice to build something with parts I could see I built it pretty much OOB. I had a few fit issues and I think they were my own making. I used after market decals from Southern Sky. These were original issue from a few years ago with only roundels, tail flashes and numbers. The later sheets are more comprehensive. I also used the Steel Beach ECS pipes to make it look more RAAF. The weapons are from a Hasegawa weapons set, I used 3 GBU-16s and an ACMI pod to mix it up a bit with the kit supplied AIM-9X and AIM-120. I started this one just before Christmas and built it for my son who is currently under going training in the RAAF. He hopes to work on Super Hornets when he finishes his training later this year. On to the pictures....
  13. Hi all! Here's my premier natural metal finished aircraft - one of many I hope! Really enjoyed this, even though it took much longer than it should. A few 'improvements': - Airwaves PE cockpit bits/oil cooler flaps (there was lots more but it was inaccurate or unusable) - Aires gunbay - Engine wired with copper speaker cable strands and fuse wire - Cowl flaps separated and actuating rods added (bit out of scale but hey) - Curtiss prop from a Tamiya kit - Brake wires from fuse wire of various sizes, and in the wheel bay. - Tail wheel door rams from fuse wire Finish is alclad white aluminium with some bits duraluminium and Humbrol metalcote. I preshaded individual panels with alclad gloss black to simulate stressed skin. Tamiya acrylic for the gear/gun bays and Humbrol enamel (all the rest). Decals are Superscale and weren't much cop, too shiny and colours much too bright. I ended up stripping off the stars and bars and replacing with kit decals, the rest got a dust of Humbrol satin. I left this aircraft lightly weathered as it was a non-combat plane, only used by Kepner to monitor his air forces. It would have been kept pretty smart, besides the usual English mud on the wheels! Comments and criticism please! Chris
  14. Happy New Year all! Mrs Card kindly got this one off my wishlist for a Chrimble prezzie. Wanted to do it as never built a Hasegawa before and everyone (surely?) has a Warhawk in their collection. Anyway - progress so far. Just using a phone camera, so pics not great, but I hope it's all bearable... Box & most of the sprues: Cockpit & radiator: Went together well - it's one of those 'test fit the whole thing' before touching the glue jobbies. Nearly screwed the seat mounting up, but spotted my mistake just in time. Used the instrument-only decals - there are decals with background and instruments supplied as well. Sight was painted later. Dirtied up the radiator prior to fitting with some weathering powders. Test fit & actual build of fuselage halves: Some filling & sanding needed (mostly fixing my overenthusiastic sprue mark sanding): Added tail unit - I like the linkages between the control surfaces - wondering whether to highlight them when painting: Built the wings - again, nice fit after some testing: Airframe built - some gaps but I have filler and new tools to fill with. This is nearly as far as I've got... Just added some underside paraphernalia: Now starting the basic paint job - underside colour is causing a bit of a headache. Says 'Neutral Gray' in the destructions - Tamiya's Neutral and Light Greys are far too dark for my eye - going for Humbrol's US Gull Grey. We'll see how it pans out. Cheers Si M...
  15. Bl***y Tornado

    I have NEVER given up on a kit before. Ever. Not once. I have built some of the worst vac forms imaginable, and wrestled with warped resin in the middle of the night with a deadline looming. But THIS? More specifically: the Airwaves wing set. I have had three sets of the things and every one has drooped. I have tried heating them and re setting them, but the flaps and slats wrinkle when you do this, no matter how carefully you do it. And you can't reset them afterwards. My latest plan was to cut the open areas from the wings and install them in the Hase wings a la a paragon conversion kit. Nope: there don't seem to be any undrooped ones in existence. Every set I have seen is bent, so, reluctantly and finally, I give up. I'll get the Revell 1/48 kit and save myself a LOT of gyp. It will cost less than the wings I have bought for this thing, let alone the eduard set... Mojo lost. It's in the bin. Right, as you were, I just needed to vent a little :-)
  16. Hi all, Here's the last build of the year. Hasegawa kit, eduard zoom etched brass, Eagle strike decals, Tamiya paint. Cheers and Merry Christmas! FF
  17. The end of WW2 pretty much saw most of the empires of the world fall and the Dutch East Indies was no different. Fueled by 3 years of occupation by the Japanese, who actively encouraged nationalistic sentiments, Indonesia declared independence just two days after the Japanese surrender on August 15th. The result would be a rather nasty conflict that was rather unflattering for the Dutch, who eventually recognised Indonesian Independence in December 1949. There were many Japanese aircraft left in Indonesia at the end of the war and as many as possible were quickly snapped up by Indonesian forces, who managed to gather a surprising amount of serviceable equipment. In early 1946, Dutch intellegence reported 14 Ki-61's were operational with a further 4 unserviceable aircraft, but it is thought that 6 aircraft were acquired with only 1 serviceable. The Dutch called the Ki 61 'Mustang Jepang'; Japanese Mustang. They would have been a formidable opponent for a Dutch Kittyhawk, less so for the Mustangs. Aside from a period water colour painting upon which my model is based, this is all the information known of these aircraft.
  18. Hi, here's a few pics of the current wip, hoping to get this done by years end! Hasegawa kit, tamiya paint, Eagle Strike decals. Thanks for looking. FF
  19. Hi, "There are many like it, but this one is mine". The Hornet in 1/48 is prehaps not the rarest object out there This one is a Finnish Air Force F-18C, HN-431 from HLLv 21. The build is inspired by two pictures of HN-431 taken on a highway strip in Lusi 2011 that I have found on the net (link and link). It is Hasegawa OOB except for decals and Sidewinders. This is a bird that has been sitting on my workbench for quite some time, actually over a year. However, finally finished and Ready for Inspection, so thank's for looking Cheers! /Fred
  20. Fuji T-1A/B "Old fashion" Hasegawa 1:72 - Double Boxing Limited Edition. The Fuji T-1 has the distinction of being Japans first indigenous jet powered training aircraft. Fuji Heavy Industries is a major Japanese corporation better known now for its Subaru vehicles. Its roots trace back to the Nakajima Aircraft Company which was broken up post WWII. They are still heavily involved in Aerospace. The T-1 was developed as an intermediate jet trainer. Much of what went into the T-1 was learnt from the licensed manufacture and operation by Japan of the F-86 sabre. This has lead to it being considered a 2 seat F-86 but in reality nothing was interchangeable between the two. Like a lot of trainers it had the capability to carry some ordnance and was used for some tactical training. The original T-1A was powered by a licensed Bristol Siddeley Orpheus engine. 46 T-1As were built. Later a T-1B was built with an Ishikawajima-Harima J3 engine fitted. 20 T-1Bs were built. The first T-1 flew in January of 1953 and they were retired in March of 2006 being replaced by the T-4. The Kit The Fuji T-1 kit has been around for a while, the first one I built was in a Hales box so that dates it to pretty far back. The kit has been updated at least once as far as I can tell with new parts for the cockpit. I also notice that the original boxing included a plastic FUJI T-1 plaque to display in front of your completed model, this has now been removed which is a shame. Hasegawa have re-released this kit in various boxings over the years, the last one I know of was for the retirement of the T-1. The parts count for the whole kit is fairly low with all parts on two fairly small sprues with an additional small sprue for the drop tanks. Construction starts with cockpit. 2 fairly generic seats are provided with instrument panels and control columns. The rudder pedals are moulded onto the floor and instrument panel details are provided as decals. Once the cockpit is completed this is placed inside the fuselage adding the intake and exhaust. Neither of these is very deep and are blanked off so at least you can not see through the model. Once the fuselage is closed up the wings are added. The lower wing is one part crossing the bottom of the fuselage with the top wings being added. Following this the the tailplanes, landing gear and tanks are added. Given the age of the kit there is no detail at all in the gear bays. Finally the canopy is added. Canopy The canopy Is very clear despite the old moulds the canopy has held up well, and can be posed in either the open or closed position. Decals Decals are provided for 3 aircraft in the kit. 857 Air Proving Group JASDF - As on Box Art 808 13th FTW JASDF (Overall white aircraft) 812 13th FTW JASDF (Overall white with large red panels) The decals look glossy and in register, they also do appear thinner than hasegawa decals in the past. All of the dayglo areas for the aircraft are provided as decals if te modeller does not want to paint these areas. Hasegawa now also seem to be able to print white not that horrible cream colour of the past. Conclusion Overall recommended for Japanese aircraft fans or if you fancy building something different. In the words of a famous TV Show here is one I built earlier. Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  21. Kawasaki T-4 Blue Impulse 2013/2014 Hasegawa 1:48 Even though most would associate Kawasaki with the Motorcycles they make, Kawasaki are one of those mega Japanese companies which seem to make everything! They make Ships, Trains, Cars, Motorcycles Engines; and importantly for us Aircraft. The Kawasaki T-4 is know as an Intermediate Jet Trainer. It is used exclusively by the Japanese Air Self Defence Force. The JASDF realised in the late 1970s that they needed to replace their existing Jet Trainers (The Lockheed T-33 & Fuji T-1) with a single type. This aircraft was to be known as the MT-X programme. In 1981 Kawasaki was selected as the main contractor under this programme. It was planned to build 220 aircraft with an in-service date of 1988. Given the requirements of the programme for an advanced two seat trainer it is no shock that the final result looks very similar to other two seat trainers. In total 208 production aircraft were built along with 4 prototypes. Deliveries started in 1988 as per the plan! At least 5 of these aircraft were lost at Matsushima AB during the devastating Tsunami in 2011. Blue Impulse The most visible presence the T-4 makes is that it has been used since 1995 by the Blue Impulse Aerobatic Display Team of the Japanese Air Self Defence Force. The Blue Impulse Team were formed in 1960 Flying the then F-86 Sabre, in 1982 they transitioned to the Mitsubishi T-2; and then in 1995 to the Kawasaki T-4. The team fly seven T-4s though only six display at one time. The aircraft are painted blue and white following previous schemes. They are equipped with white, red, blue and yellow smoke systems. The Kit The T-4 kit has been around in various boxing from Hasegawa since the 1990s. The moulds have held up very well and all parts are very crisp with no signs of any flash. Construction starts as with most aircraft with the cockpit. Two pilot figures are provided and the kit representation of the Stencel S-III-S Ejection seats are very good, the seats contain 10 parts each. Decals are provided for the instrument panels and side consoles. Next up are the intake trunks and exhausts. The intake trunks are fairly deep and end at a engine fan part. The intakes consist of 6 parts each, the main intake trunking has a seam but I am not sure how much you will see of this. The exhaust consist of 4 parts with the last stage being one piece so there is no seam there. The cockpit is then installed inside the fuselage halves along with the exhausts and plastic grommets for the tail planes. The fuselage can then be joined up and the intake trunking parts added. Following this The wings are added, the modeller will need to decide if they are going to add the drop tanks and open the holes as needed. I have seen the Blue Impulse flying with and without tanks so it is up to the modeller to decide if they want them or not. The wings are fitted with large tabs which slot together inside the fuselage making this joint very strong. The large under fuselage insert is then added. Again a pair of plastic grommets needs to be added for the landing gear. Finally the landing gear and various fuselage intakes and bumps are added. Lastly the canopy can be fixed in the open or closed position. Canopy The canopy is very clear. On the main canopy however there is a centre line seam which the modeller will need to remove. Decals Decals are provided to make any of the team aircraft numbered 1 to 6 for the 2012 or 2013 Airshow seasons. The decals look glossy and in register. Some of the wing chevrons in blue for the top and white for the underside are provided though I am sure most will mask and paint these as not all of the blue is provided as decal and it will be difficult to match paint to the decal blue as you have to mix the paint colour. This shade of Blue Impluse Blue is not available direct unlike the T-2 colours which were available from Gunze. Conclusion Overall recomended for Japanese aircraft fans, Blue Impulse Fans or if you fancy building something different. Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  22. Hi All, This is my Hasegawa F-4J Phantom II. I did originally buy this plane with the intention of doing a F-4S with Ferris Camouflage, but when I realised that the wing slats were totally different I rethought my plan of attack. The F-4 is quite possibly my favourite aircraft, and I remember seeing this particular colour scheme in a book I had as a child. I can't quite recall which brand the decals were, but they were excellent. Everything else on this build is out of the box. Unfortunately I sold this model before moving overseas. I was going to load it up with Mk. 82s but seeing I was selling it I thought I would rather save the TERs for my A-7 project! Thanks for looking. Now to do that F-4S...
  23. EA-18G Growler VAQ-132 "Scorpions" Hasegawa 1:48 The EA-18G is a development of the successful F/A-18F two seat Super Hornet that came into service in 1999 and replaced the Tomcat from 2006. It's intended that the EA-18G will replace the EA-6B that's currently in service in the carrier based electronic warfare role. The key benefits of the Growler are it's an ability to stay with the F/A-18s throughout the whole attack mission as well as using the INCANS Interference Cancellation System which allows friendly voice communication whilst jamming enemy communications, something the EA-6B can't do. Several minor modifications have been made to the wings to create a more stable platform for the electronic warfare role including leading edge wing fold fairings and wing fences. The Growler has since had its name changed to Grizzly (in the operational environment at least) due to the potential confusion of the names 'Growler' and 'Prowler'. The cannon on the Growler have been replaced with electronic attack equipment, some of which is also mounted on wingtip pods. Jamming is carried out by the addition of up to 5 ALQ-99 pods slung on the pylons under the wings in addition to Air-Air missiles. Unfortunately, the ALQ-99 has it's issues such as interfering with the aircrafts own radar and slowing the top speed of the aircraft down, so replacing these and adding next generation equipment is expected in the evolution of the Growler. The EA-18G has first seen combat in Operation Odyssey Dawn, enforcing the no-fly rules set to prevent the Libyan Government from attacking it's civilians in the civil war in March 2011. The kit Having reviewed the 1:72 scale version of this kit, it’s interesting to compare the same aircraft in the two scales. The top opening box includes the same art work as its smaller scale sister. 300 parts are included across 9 light grey sprues and clear one that’s bagged separately. The most noticeable difference between the two scales apart from the higher level of detail that you’d expect in 1:48th is the separate flaps and slats making for a more ‘dirty’ configuration straight from the box. The instructions are of the normal Hasegawa folding A4 document with surprisingly few stages; only 12 stages to assemble 300 parts, so careful attention is needed not to miss any detail. The diagrams are however clear. There are additional parts that are a carry over from the F model that the G tooling was modified from that aren’t required. An example of this is the inboard slats, the G model having a fillet where the wing fold is located. An extra sprue containing the correct parts is included. So let’s get into the build. As per normal construction starts with the cockpit. Typically Hasegawa, this is average in detail levels. The tub has moulded in switches and panels so it is possible to make it look quite busy with the paint brush. Each seat comprises 5 pieces, the centre, two side panels, ejector handle and top plate. Lacks of seatbelts are quite noticeable in this scale, so using some aftermarket detail to inject some life into your pit may be worth considering. Two crew figures are included if you like to use them in your builds, each with two types of helmet to choose from. I’ve read elsewhere that the rear cockpit panel is incorrect. If this bothers you, there is a good reference HERE to help you correct it. The cockpit locates on top of the nose gear bay which then fits between the two nose halves. Surface detail in the kit is very nicely done. A combination of recessed panel lines, hinges, raised details and rivets give a satisfactory finish. Something that is evident on the nose exterior as well as others that I’ll mention further in the review is very slight raised areas resulting from ejector pin marks on the inside surfaces. These may simply disappear under a coat of paint. If not, a slight rub down should fix them. Something to be aware of is some of the panel lines / nose detailing need amending due to the base kit being the F model originally. Diagrams are included in the instructions for carrying this out. In the review I’ve linked to above, it also points out that some of the perforated surfaces that are an over spill from the F model are not present on the G so some minor filling will make it more authentic. Despite the large number of parts, construction is quite simple. With the nose assembled, we move to the main body. As with most (if not all) F-18 kits, this is separated into top and bottom halves. Again, surface detailing is exquisite. Whilst the wings have separate flaps and slats, they don’t unfortunately have the folding wing options unless you decide to carry out this modification yourself. Hasegawa have thought of this in the design however as cut lines have been moulded into the wing fold points to make this easy. Full depth intake trunks are included being blanked off by the front compressor blades for the engine. Unfortunately, there are some ejector pin marks down the interior of the intakes, so these will need filling and blending as will the seam once the two halves of each trunk are joined. With the intakes assembled, they are fitted to the lower fuselage half and the wings assembled to the upper half. Before completing this, take note of the holes that need to be opened, both on the fuselage and wings as there are plenty of them. With the main fuselage constructed and nose glued in place, the tail feather and undercarriage are the next focus. The elevators are connected via a plastic ‘axle’ containing two polycaps so that they can be moved together once assembled. As with the nose parts, there is evidence of ejector pin marks pushing through into the external surfaces on the tails so probably better to apply a layer of primer to see if this is still evident afterwards. As with the wings, separate rudders are provided so they can be positioned at your discretion. The slats and flaps can be fitted at this stage as shown in the instructions or at the end after painting depending on your personal method of construction. You will need to decide which configuration you are choosing though as to select the correct parts for the flap actuator fairings. The undercarriage is a very detailed affair and captures the rugged look well. The only disappointment is ejector marks on the inside surface of the one piece nose wheels on the tyres. A small amount of filler will be necessary here to fill them. The burner cans are provided in the closed position. Detail is satisfactory. A full complement of weapons is included and very nicely detailed they are. The fins on the missiles are very thin giving good scale representation and the pylons have also been treated to a good dose of surface detail to compliment. The load is provided is as follows:ALQ-218(V)2 wingtip pods (x2) ALQ-99 high-band jamming pods (x2) ALQ-99 centreline low-band jamming pod (x1) 480 external wing tanks (x2) AGM-88 HARM (x2) AIM-120 AMRAAM (x2) The rather large canopy is thinly moulded giving no noticeable distortion. There is a thin seam down the centre of the canopy that will need to be polished out. The windscreen is supplied as a separate part allowing you to have the canopy either open or closed and a superb HUD is included on the clear sprue too. Finally, apart from a wealth of ‘sticky out bits’ such as antennas, a boarding ladder is included to finish the display if you choose to have it represented on the ground. Note in the picture below, I've removed the canopy from the sprue to be able to get a picture of it. Decals A lovely decal sheet is included representing an aircraft of VAQ-132 Scorpions in both High and Low vis marking options (2010 & 2011). The decals are vivid in colour, very sharp and no register problems visible. A good mix of aircraft markings, placards and stencils are included for both the aircraft and the ECM / weapon load out. Conclusion This is great release from Hasegawa. The cockpit could benefit from some extra detail and there’s a healthy supply of options to choose from if you go down that route. There are a few surface detail errors that carry over from the F model that the tooling was derived from, but other than that, the shape is very good and the exterior detailing quite stunning. Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  24. Hello boys, It's been a long time I didn't post any completed plane here (it's also true that I didn't complete any plane in a long while, as well ). Well, here is my last effort, the Hasegawa P-39 in soviet markings. There are a few boo-boo, like the undersides cowl flaps which need to be re-positionned, but I hope you'll like the thing. Feel free to comment, It's my usual way of improving. Best Stef (#6)
  25. Hi all well my build of Vulcan XH535 is going quick and I want to do something different. Temptation has got the better of me and this kit has been messing with me for well over 12 months saying BUILD ME!! . So I have given in. This will be my first Russian plane I know little about it other that I love it and its a BIG BEAST. I will be doing it OOB though the decals look awful. I would appreciate help with colour call outs and possible colour options. First I need help with the interior colour I am not going to go mad in the pit mainly down to 1 I have not the spare cash for extras. 2 I dont think its going to need that much as it does not seem to have much to see. Here is what I have got to work with. picked her up of ebay for the extortionate price of £4.99 ! Rob
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