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About Scargsy

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  1. I seem to remember mine not wanting to align on one side terribly well so it's possibly a kit issue, I just hacked some styrene out using my usual 'delicate' method until it seemed to work!
  2. Further painting issues... I repainted the underside to cover up the white/crusty looking marks - all looked good until it dried, pretty much the same again - though somewhat less of a mark, it's clearly something underneath reacting with the paint. Onward to the topside and again I'm using AK 'Real Colors' lacquers, but seeming to have issues once again. Firstly the RLM 71 base coat, mixed 1:1 with Mr Color self-leveling thinners, now it went down really smoothly and I put a pretty wet coat on but once dried it had a bit of a blotchy appearance (this could be my mixing, technique, previous uneven primer, etc,) It didn't show up too much on the above photos, but I did a second coat but there were still some patchy looking bits, but it looked OK enough (could be counted as faded areas. etc.),,, Anyhow, I masked it up for the camo and applied the RLM 70, the camo masks worked well, but the paint was a completely different experience to the previous colour. Again I'd mixed it 50:50 with Mr Colour Self-Levelling but firstly it covered amazingly well but also it dried a much more gloss/satin finish... I did have a few issues with the first coat chipping up with the masking tape... As you can see I've removed the masks from the canopy and they'd done a decent job, I had a couple of areas where a bit of primer spray had snuck under but a toothpick managed to clean up the worst of it. Also there was the odd mark where the second coat had managed to sneak under the masking and a few chips I made in my haste at removing the masking. I masked off and painted the wing tips white but unfortunately went a bit heavy (too much impatience trying to do it in a single coat), cleaned up the chips as best I could with a hairy stick and decided I needed a gloss coat to smooth the finish for the decals. How I hate doing gloss coats, urgh - so this is how it turned out... I never seem to have much success with gloss - the clear parts are now frosty looking and the gloss is a bit 'bobbly'. This is using clear lacquer BTW, I think maybe it needed another coat to fully smooth. Hopefully good enough to get the decals on then sealed and I'm hoping the canopy issue is just micro-beading of the gloss coat, I took a look under a 30x microscope and I don't think it's actually chemically attacked the plastic, just there's lots of fine bobbles reflecting/refracting the light. I'm going to try brushing the clear lacquer over it to see if I can get a smooth coat. The body I'll spray with something like Tamiya clear to seal the decals before a coat of matt I think. I started adding the decals, they went on fairly well but getting the black cross on the white tailfin was an impossibility for me, thankfully Airfix didn't supply it with a huge clear area but that made it rather flimsy and eventually I managed to tear it when trying to get it to sit right. It's a fairly simple design though so hopefully I can paint it on with a bit of masking tape to help me! One other thing I'd note (to anyone else doing the same build) the crosses for the underside - the decal placement has it running over/through one of the flap arms, I think that was one that was a bit out of whack before (sticking up) - I have been better leaving it unattached until getting the decal to conform to the wing then bending the arm down. In the end I just moved the decal placement inwards slightly on the underside so as to not interfere with the flap arm.
  3. I still have nightmares over the version of that Italeri Escort I built (different decals but I imagine the same kit), ugly sink marks in the bonnet where I kept sanding out the filler, etc. Hope you have more joy than me! I'm still itching for Belkits to release their promised RS200 and 6R4 kits which will be straight in my rally stash!
  4. I'm no expert but from my experience... The Tamiya fine-surface primer you're using (rattle can?) is lacquer based I think, so you really shouldn't need to fully strip it - you should be able to sand it back without it flaking or as your first question asked, add a little more filler - lacquer based stuff sticks amazing to plastic. I tend to use AK filler, the issue I usually have is that it's a little softer than styrene and thus it's easier to 'sand out' of the seam / join etc. I also think it may rehydrate and become softer during wet sanding. I've not use Vallejo stuff but their paints, etc. tend to be on the safer chemical spectrum so possibly the filler is water based solvent, which may well take a long time to set as others have mentioned, this could cause it to shrink somewhat in deep fills so wait a good while before sanding back in case it later shrinks.
  5. So after masking off the underside: hopefully well, it's one of those jobs I hate and you never know how good it is until the big reveal after unmasking (I'll stop before I start sounding like some terrible Saturday night game-show)... On with the green paint, again I'm using AK's new Real Color laquer paint - this is their RLM 70 (OK 'real colours', 'wrong subject' - but I was painting the Stuka and well, it was in the airbrush!) It was thinned 1:1 with Mr Hobby Self-Levelling thinners. The lacquer paint goes down beautifully with the airbrush but on drying it didn't seem to have left an even coat of colour: That was the first coat, it's hard to make out in the image (other than maybe the a patch on the left of the tail fin), it's not that I put down a thin coat either (I felt I'd somewhat overdone it) I left it a few hours and added a second coat, after drying it looked like this... It's got a bit of a mottled type appearance to it, now I don't totally dislike it, probably better than an entirely uniform coat I'm just a little puzzled as to why so potentially I could make it controllable in future. It's not actually overly visually noticeable - maybe say on the same level as when you rub suede / moleskin fabric in one direction compared to the other, possibly I could roll with it and use it to inform my camo marking scheme, hopefully though after the next camo colour goes on and a few washes it should tone down. My possible culprits are : Uneven primer coat - grey on grey I might not have given it a uniform coat, given how 'hot' lacquer paint/thinners are they could even have somewhat reactivated the thinner layers somewhat Micro-texturing in the primer coat Insufficiently well mixed paint/thinners - I probably do a complete no-no, I drop the thinners into the airbrush paint cup, then use a fresh pipette for the colour before 'mixing' by simply sucking the contents back up into the pipette and flushing back, rinse and repeat a few times. Bad airbrush control, not putting it down evenly enough. The paint itself is just quite translucent Anyhow that's where I've got to, the next issue (other than maybe a third green coat) is what blue colour to put down for the top camo. I'd checked a bunch of previous Hasegawa kit instructions for the Draken and the one I saw suggested Mr Color "Midnight Blue" but that colour is, well I could say - pretty much as described in the name (look up on a moonless night), it's practically black! I might have to mix up something lighter from it and a lighter grey blue colour.
  6. So a micro update.... After watching this YouTube video... I felt like a bit of shameless copying with regards his seat texturing method, so with a tin of black Humbrol enamel and some Micro-balloons ordered I set to work... Opening the enamel was an instant trip down memory lane, they say smells can bring back memories and I can honestly say that this being the first tinlet I've opened in what must be 35 years I was instantly reminded of my childhood. The technique was pretty much as shown in the video - paint the enamel directly onto the plastic part, then dust on some of the micro-balloons which is a very fine particle substance (designed I think for thickening glues). I dare say any slow drying paint or adhesive would have sufficed provided it sticks well to plastic. The black paint on white plastic though was a good call as I could easily tell where I'd applied paint (would have been a nightmare with black on black). You can still see the crude diamond check pattern but the white micro particles should hopefully provide some texture once I've painted over them. Other than that I've made a start on some of the other interior parts, the PE additions to the handbrake and gear-shift being added. I attempted to do some soldering on the gear-shift base but it just didn't seem to want to take (even with flux), I might just add some filler to the gaps. I also cut out the front part of the center console/dash part to fit the PE (not currently glued). I was potentially going to leave the PE unpainted but it's a little too shiny to represent aluminum at scale I think. One thing I'm wondering about is how I'm going to paint these tiny radio/control boxes - does anyone have any good tips? I get the feeling that if I paint them all that detail is going to get lost, they don't seem sufficiently recessed (previously with recessed bits you can just sand the part again gently on a flat piece of sand paper to remove some of the paint - that works sometimes though if the PE is plated brass you run the risk of sanding through the plating. What I might attempt to do is build up the boxes, mask off the detail faces and paint the other sides black or whatever (to make them look like ABS plastic boxes with metal face panels), then somehow use very thin paint - e.g. panel liner type stuff to flow into the detail.
  7. Was the replacement part better? My version seemed to be a bit malformed also, but I'm not sure if that was due to my heavy-handed removal from the sprue.
  8. That is indeed some fine hairy-stick work, especially using Revell paint which I've tried in the past and found about as thin as tarmac, do you just thin with water and at what ratio?
  9. My second build in the GB will be this toon style rendition of the USS Lexington (thankfully approved by the GB leaders)... It's a style I'm not familiar with doing (both ships and the cartoon style) and should hopefully provide a fun little build, I'm hoping to put it on a base (I have one it should hopefully fit on) and do some water modelling, again something I'm not used to doing. As I mentioned on the other thread, I've got 3 other GBs I'm trying to finish so the parts photos will arrive once I've got the time to start this!
  10. OK so the first of my slightly pushing the rules builds (as approved by the GB gods) is something that doesn't float and doesn't fly and land on something that floats... Where is the naval connection? Well it's going to be ridden by this little resin chap... A member of the USN playing with it, based on several famous photos of Utah Beach on D-Day (or just after), one can only imagine what the guys thought of a remote controlled drone/mine in those days! It should prove a good exercise for me in doing figure painting, something I haven't done a lot of in about 30 years, I plan to do a tiny vignette/diorama with it, I have a tiny base that should suit it and hopefully I can model a bit of sand - not too many parts which is a blessing (given how many other GBs I have on the go currently), but a first for me in using resin. I'll put up some parts photos later, though as I have 3 GBs needing my attention this is more of a holding page for now!
  11. Update: A coat of Zero light grey primer was applied, though this seems to have reacted with the canopy masks slightly (I think the drying caused them to curl up and off a little, hopefully that was post painting not during!). I'd also got some rough patches, it was hard to tell how wet to go and where I'd painted as the primer and plastic were similar colours but some gentle fine grade sanding sponge action later and it was smooth. I gave it a quick wash and left it to dry (more on this later...) It was time to hit the underside with some colour, I'd bought some AK Real Colors (lacquer) to test so RLM 65 (1938) for the underside, to my eyes it looked a bit dark and blue (compared to expectation) and I think it will be easier to darken rather than lighten the colour later so I mixed it up 1 part paint, 1 part Mr Color Self-Levelling Thinner and 2 parts Zero Paints light grey primer (which is pre-thinned)... Hilariously it now almost resembles the plastic colour again, but baring my little errors of a couple of runs and the odd bit of fluff stuck in seemed great. On drying however I started noticing some oddness in a couple of patches (these photos taken an hour or so after the above)... I think what happened is that even though I'd left the model to dry after washing off the sanding dust it wasn't fully dry and so some water had worked its way back out and caused some kind of reaction. It'll need either cleaning up or maybe I'll roll with it and see if I can work it into some weathering patches.
  12. After a small break for the Stuka GB to catch up, I'm on to paint. A primer coat of Zero Light Grey, then I painted the underside of the wings, the aftermarket decals suggest Blue Grey 058, of which the only manufacturer I can find is MRP. I didn't have any at hand and was mixing up some paint for the Stuka underside so they're currently the same colour. Looking at online references though it's a bit light for the Draken (it seems it should be a much more light to mid grey, without much blue) but with oil washes, filters and weathering I'm sure I can darken it up later. My paint mix was 1:1:2 ratio of AK Real Colors RLM 65 (1938), Mr Hobby Self-Levelling Thinner, Zero Light-Grey Primer. I'd initially thought that the RLM colour might be a bit on the dark side but checking the colour (after painting, doh) it might have been a better match, though possibly a little too blue. The paint went down brilliantly but I noticed that my seam line at the back was a bit nasty - so the primer there is sanded back, so in that photo there should be the natural plastic colour, the primer (on the belly) and the blue on the wings - it's all very similar coloured!
  13. With my other two ongoing GBs (Draken and Stuka) ready for primer, I figured it was time to make a start on the Galant, wanting to do a marathon priming session rather than constantly cleaning out the airbrush! Firstly after all that 1/72 fiddliness it's a bit of a god send for my aging eyesight to be back at a larger scale, though I suddenly had that 'sinking' feeling when I looked at some of the (rather hard brittle feeling) white styrene: Firstly there's somewhat of a sink mark on the co-drivers fire-extinguisher... and some rather 'flashy' wheels... The body shell will also need some serious cleanup - I think I previously mentioned the blanking of the bonnet vents (which I guess the Swedish rally version wouldn't have needed and there's some flash in the front intakes, sorry the white doesn't show up too well on camera. I test fitted a few parts - the dash attachment might be a bit of an issue, The dash is entirely supported by the central 'pillar' with gaps either side but the aftermarket PE would have me cut the lower pillar off completely and replace it with the PE part which could be an alignment and support hell: I'll need to bend up the PE and compare the sizes, it looks from the profile that the middle section of the plastic that points into the cabin sticks out more but maybe I can just remove that section and wrap the PE around the sides, it it's wide enough. I've no idea what colour the PE part should be painted, it seems to represent some perforated aluminium sheet, whether it would be bare metal or painted the interior colour I have no idea. I built up the rollcage, but without attaching it to the interior tub (just using it for alignment), so I can remove and paint it separately - that was a bit of a challenge, lots of pieces with unset glue flopping around everywhere, but in the end it seems solid and to fit the alignment points. I did a bit of searching online and came across a YouTube video that does show some good shots. One thing I've noticed is the roll-cage seems inaccurate in the kit, the actual car (no 4) doesn't seem to have a large, single, diagonal rear bar (appears to have some quite low X members behind the seats), also with regards accuracy I'm fairly sure from memory of owning an AWD Galant of the same vintage that the transmission tunnel should be a bit more raised than that in the kit (but memory is a subjective thing). Other than that, I have the seats out and I've cleaned them up.
  14. Pressing on with the build I decided to paint up the crew, firstly I gave them a base coat of colours as suggested in the instructions but something doesn't look right (and I'm not talking about my inability to paint figures neatly at 1/72 ) Whilst I appreciate the humour in the instructions (I'm guessing they're faces of some of the staff), Humbrol 20 is apparently Crimson Gloss? I'm not using Humbrol enamels anyhow, the crew got some Vallejo colours - Dunkelgelb primer and various shades drybrushed for their suits and I chose a lighter yellow colour to go over the parachute straps, faces painted with Mig Oilbrusher flesh then gave them an overall wash once dry with some Army Painter light tone (it's a kind of sepia coloured acrylic wash). They won't be winning any prizes for detail but should look good in-situ, where they wont be as noticeable under the canopy. The canopy masking set I used (Peewit) seemed a bit of a life-saver, it's the first time I've used a pre-cut canopy mask but it certainly helped though it was still a fiddly and long winded affair with all those tiny frames, some I might not have greatly aligned but I'm hopeful it will give a good result, certainly better than me trying to cut tape on the canopy. Fitting the rear gun and bubble was an interesting affair - I masked up the round window first and attached it to rear canopy section but aligning the gun with the rear gunners hand was pretty much a guessing game given I'd already masked up the canopy before fitting it! I was considering maybe adding some masking to the inside of the round opening then pulling it out post painting and fitting the window/gun last but decided instead to just go for it, we'll see where the hand/gun align at the end! I also added a tiny blob of canopy glue to the inside middle canopy section over the antenna attachment point, to hopefully stop my paint blowing into the inside via the hole! As far as the gremlins go, the pilots gun sight seemed a bit malformed or at least nothing like the image in the instructions so I discarded it. The wing flaps also had some warping on the longer legs (for both wings) and needed to be forced into alignment. The front aerofoil on the underside of the wings (if that's what they are - might even be some form of radiator), one side had the centre connection point missing from the moulding! She's also had a bit of plastic surgery in the form of filler, I fitted the bomb pylons to the underside of the wing - I actually like the design of these, rather than some tiny little pins to connect the bombs they have large V points that slot deeply into the bombs. So it's now all ready for some primer, I used a bit of PVA to temporarily attach the bombs to some cocktail sticks for painting, and labelled up the undercarriage sides so I don't confuse them (I can't obviously see any 'handedness').
  15. A few days ago, on the A3 near Tolworth, heading towards London I spotted a bright yellow Lamborghini Diablo SV - well I think it was an SV, it had "SV" decals half the height of the car on the side of it!
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