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Scargsy

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  1. A small update: - Given the complex shapes around the front wind break (if that's what it's called) and the rear side 'wings' behind the cabin I decided to risk masking them off and airbrushing black rather than trying to get the decals to conform around the angles (and that air intake on the front). This made life a lot easier as I could just snip off the log details and attach as needed. Hopefully the masking around the front light cells lines up nicely too once the glass is in. Some of the photo reference shows them being what appears to be black in some cases and white in other, there's also other images with the tops halves looking like they've been taped over, I decided the black would look best. I've been slowly adding decals when I get a small amount of time here and there. Given the age they seem to have surviced well (though are somewhat reluctant to leave the backing sheet, needing a bit of soaking) - I presume as they were in a sealed bag that's helped them. Getting the rear wing decal on was going to be a pain, since I'd glued the wing in place and it's a single decal to cover the entire surface (front and back), I had visions of it crumpling/folding up on itself, etc. So I decided to cut it down into a section just larger than the top piece to start with, that way I'd only need to content with getting enough to cover the top and front edge initially. It was actually slightly wider than needed so I ended up needing to trim the edge on one side which made a bit of a mess so I trimmed some of the remaining orangey red panel to make a slither to give a nice edge. The underside I then cut into smaller sections and attached, unfortuantely it's not 100% coverage there but it's not going to be overly visible. Getting the duct decals in place was also a bit of a faff as it's a single orange/red piece that runs from the front wheel arch and into duct, unfortuantely it seems slightly too small and there are some gaps visible (where the black line parts, attached to the rear section decal) don't quite meet. I'm not sure if I should leave it or attempt to mix up an approximate colour and touch up the areas. There are a few points where the black masked section didn't quite go far enough but I'll just snip some slithers of the provided black decals to fill those tiny gaps. Then I need to worry about clear-coating it!
  2. So a small update - the builds have been kind of going slow due to work/redundancy/finding a new job but I figured I'd best get it moving forward! I managed to get the decals attached... I was a bit hesitant attaching them (especially that long arm on the CV logo) but they went down beautifully (probably because they're not a 20+ year old set like my other build). The door number decals I used some artistic license and moved forward slightly to cover some small overspray where the masking wasn't great near the front of the door/wing. There is a tiny bit of bleed/overspray by the filler caps but since there is some PE fillers to add later hopefully that won't be noticable. I had a few small issues with the decals : The small 'infill' part at the corner of the CV on the bonnet (it fills the gap on the left at the intake) didn't really sit well and was a pain to get aligned. The 'Monte Carlo Rally' decal on the bonnet is a bit too transparent (easy to see the blue through it, which is weird as the other white decals, e.g. the CV logos are nice and thick.) Aligning up all the split 'Mobil' parts on the front grill is a bit fiddly, best to start with the second 'row' (top of the grill, not the top part on the bonnet) as this is full width and has a cut out/alignment point around the MG logo. This might have been easier if I'd done that first before attaching the grill. The next job will be clear coating it - do I go for 2k as never used it before and I'm worried that the ambient temps might be less than ideal or something else?
  3. Not that I'm aware of, what's the usual process? Some kind soul with some graphic design skills knocks one up?
  4. Sorry Bertie - I got the wrong end of the stick there. Yeah the OP variant would be acceptable, according to wikipedia:
  5. I think I stipulated anything attached to a recon or observation unit before so yes. Yes the OV-1 Bronco, Cessna O-1 or O-2, not sure how far I'd go with the more fighter jet FACs listed on Wikipedia (F-100, F-4 Phantom) unless there was some provenance (e.g. markings for a FAC role).
  6. Hi all sorry for the delay in response of late, just found out I'm being made redundant at work! Luckily it seems my skills are in demand though, so I've had lots of dealing with interviews / job agents, etc. Thanks to all who voted and got this over the finish line! I'd say armoured cars qualify as lightly armoured / armed. Recce units will be fine! Once the GB opens it will be open for all, provided the subject matter fits - Spitfire PR fits the bill, Phonix D.I. I'm not overly familiar with (more of a fighter, though the wiki page suggests that some were later converted with cameras for recce).
  7. Hi Pat, haven't managed to make a start yet - but looks like there's going to be some reorginisation at my work so I might end up with a lot more spare time - yikes! (Still plenty of time to do some modelling.)
  8. It's been a while so thought I'd best try finish this before the deadline! The figure parts didn't fit together brilliantly, so I decided to glue and fill them before painting (which is annoying since they break down the arm/head/tank top parts where they will be painted different colours. A coat of grey primer then I started on the colours - some thinned coats of Citadel flesh tones to start with and some Vallejo air colours for the jeans. It's all quite thin but I prefer to build it up in layers. For the car I fitted the window then whilst the glue was still fairly wet the interior to help line it up, though there were only a couple of locator points on the rear shelf area, so I decided to put the chassis part in too, ensuring everything was lined up whilst the glue was drying. That all went together fairly well without much faff, however I then hit a snag. With the body/chassis parts together I couldn't fit the engine block in! The solution was to (as neatly as I could manage) chop out the gearbox/transmission support, place the engine in, then reattach the support. It was a bit of a faff, holding it all together and lining it all up but it came out OK in the end. Not my best work - that seam down the block/oil pan, I can see the radiator isn't straight either and I needed to chop a bit off the front of that lower sub-frame to fit it in, but the support is in. Here's the start of the engine from above, I removed the bonnet/hood (hopefully I can get it back in without scratching the paint too much, but it didn't open up enough to do any engine bay surgery). I put the disk brakes on then just about managed to squeeze the wheels on under the arches. Almost there, a few more decals to add in the engine bay etc. The figure has had a few more coats on the skin - some dry-brushing of a light colour followed by a reddish flesh wash which left him looking a bit blotchy, especially on the top of his head, so I dry brushed over that again with some of the original flesh tone. The jeans have had a couple of coats of lighter blue too. I've no idea if my hand will be steady enough to attempt to do some eyes on him! The tank top has had one coat of Vallejo white primer, which is a bit thin and washy still.
  9. I've added you to the list, though I think it doesn't really matter as we're in the bunfight poll - if it makes it through anyone is free to join, provided the usual rules are met (less than 25% finished and a subject that fit's the brief).
  10. Wow this is going well in the polling, no idea what happens if we get into the final list, do I need to host it, how does that work? I've got plenty of stuff in my stash though so it will be a difficult choice: Lockheed SR-71, FW 189, Cessna O-2A maybe even a Spitfire in PRU pink?
  11. So being northern I didn't fancy wasting the current paint so gave it a bit of a light rub down on the worst lumps and bumps with some Tamiya 'fine lapping paper' then thought I'd try another coat or two, I went for some Mr Color GX-1 white, initially quite heavily thinned (3 parts self-levelling thinner, 2 parts paint) then a more usual 1:1 mix. I think it's workable - still a bit textured but once the decals are on hopefully a good coat of clear will help level it all out.
  12. So I put down the Zero white coat, initially mixing a little self-levelling thinners (though this did make it a little thin). I have to say it went down amazingly nicely and smoothly... It's a lovely colour however I have to say maybe a little too creamy to my eyes (considering it might look odd against the kit decals), the kit suggests Tamiya TS-26 (or X-2) which is more of a pure white. I tried to get a photo to show above, obviously photos aren't great at colour reproduction, so I put some milk in as a reference. Paints are from L to R: Zero 6R4 white, Mr Color GX-1 Cool White and Tamiya LP-2. The GX-1 looks like a pure titanium dioxide white (very bright with a hint of blue), the Tamiya slightly warmer but pure white and the zero warmer still. Before my eyes started bleeding micro-analysing overly comparing white tones I decided I'd give it another coat but mixing some of the GX. So 1:1:1 mix of the Zero white, Mr Color self-levelling thinners and the GX1... I think it's a bit better but it becomes difficult to tell with all these whites! I masked up and added some sandy yellow for the front splitter and the Zero colour blue - I had worried looking in the jar that it might be a bit on the light side but it seems better on the car. Somewhat annoyingly that didn't go too well - my masking (with the curve tape) has slipped on the front splitter, some of the white has chipped off, the blue has gone down a bit textured and I've had a bit of blue bleed through. Anyhow, enough for today, I'll see how it settles, sand back and touch-up as needed once it's all fully dried.
  13. Minor update. I sealed up the holes in the bottom with some plasticard sheet, slightly better than the random battery cover and useless slide switch. Not the greatest fit, I've added a little filler too but it's better than what the kit came with. Body shell halves I've primed with Zero Light Grey primer and given a coat of their Gloss White... I was upset with how 'speckly' and textured it appears (and it's not even got full coverage, so I'll need another coat) however after leaving it overnight it has settled/levelled down a bit, compared to the picture above which was maybe half an hour after spraying. I'll give it another coat but might try thinning it with some self leveling thinners (it's pre-thinned, so I'm worried about how far I can push it)
  14. Added, though I'm not sure if it makes much difference now as we're in the running for the poll, which should open soon. Maybe it does for GB contenders that don't make it through first year?
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