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Squibby

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About Squibby

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  1. Looking really good. I decided not to add those springs because I was struggling with how to represent them and fix them. There are wires running to the rear which would have complicated things. In the radiator area I've found that when the fuselage is brought together I get large gaps along the sides of the air scoop outlet duct where the cockpit floor section mates with the fuselage sides. Are you seeing this too? How are you planning to deal with these? I'm thinking of painting the radiator, fitting it and pre-masking it before installing into the fuselage. I can then putty / sand and clean up the gaps, paint with the rest of the fuselage and unmask the radiator when I'm done.
  2. Looking good, you're certainly putting a lot more thought into this than I was, I'd like to go back and retroactively make some of these mods but most of my cockpit parts are now finished and fitted in place. I think with the green stuff I'd roll it out into a thin sheet and drape it over the stick then form it and square it off at the bottom. Given how tiny it is it'll be a tough operation, just make sure you keep all your tools wet I'll be watching to see how you tackle the sidewalls.
  3. Thanks @antonio argudo amazing stuff there. I think most definitely the rivet lines around the panel perimeters are quite distinct and there are a few other areas with very visible fasteners. I'll have to think about what I want to represent without going overboard. The Tamiya kit does have quite a few of the more distinct areas already molded with rivets @giemme I should have drybrushed over before I started detail painting and decalling. If It try to do it now I'll mess up my glossy dials and muddy up the detail painting. Generally with this build given all the fiddly little details I've been very reluctant to drybrush as I normally do for fear of knocking bits off.
  4. @antonio argudo I haven't decided yet. When I built my Spitfire mk1 I meticulously riveted the whole thing but it barely showed through the paint. I think if I do go down the riveting path it'll be on isolated panels where they are very apparent on the full size example. Since you're an absolute goldmine of knowledge and references do you have any photos that show particularly noticeable areas rivets on the fuselage? In other news I've finally finished off the IP. This was possibly one of the most fiddly and frustrating bits of decalling I've had to experience. The dials from the Airscale set didn't always fit the relief on the Tamiya part. It was also quite hard to line up the fiddly little dials so they didn't appear offset. The yellow stripe was also a real hair puller... The old decals weren't very 'sticky' and tended to move about unexpectedly flicking and getting stuck on the raised dial edges. To make matters worse it also started to disintegrate after prolonged prodding around. I eventually got all 4 little bits into a generally acceptable arrangement and called it quits. The smallest dials were roughly painted by hand using oil paint dots. Once fully flatted down I gave the dial faces a dollop of Tamiya X-22 gloss thinned with water to simulate the glass. When I get some good light I'll try and snap up some shots of the finished cockpit closed together. I need to sort out the gunsight and turn my attention to the radiator before I can finally button up the fuselage. Not too much to do here however there are some very nasty gaps on inner faces of the air scoop outlet which I found very un-Tamiya like.
  5. Making some more steady progress, hopefully I'll soon be thinking about closing everything up. I painted up the seat and added some seatbelts. I used Eduard generic 'Steel series' belts which are much thinner and therefore easier to bend and form to the seat however I feel they don't have quite the 3d...ness of the old PE belts. To somewhat re-mediate this I added some fly straps and bits with aluminum tape. Overall they look good enough once weathered in with a filter of various oil / enamel washes. Everything was fitted up and we're essentially done with the cockpit floor (aside from the IP of course). The last major bit to finish up in the cockpit was the IP. I started with a base coat of Tire black and interior green on the bottom part. Then went to town detail painting and adding the numerous placards and stencils. Here is the partially finished product. I am going to gloss this up and go through the painstaking process of adding all the individual dial decals (from the Airscale 1/48 USAAF set). Still surprises me that Tamiya don't provide anything for this. I've also got to add in a yellow border around the main instrument group. I've found an old yellow stripe decal and have sliced some thin strips in various lengths to assemble into the completed border. I feel this is probably going to be quite a tricky task in practice but should look significantly cleaner than attempting to paint it on.
  6. Incredible airbrush work on the camo!
  7. New year, new update... Now that the hectic days of Christmas and New Years have passed and I've still got some time off from work I thought I'd continue with the build. I tackled the seat cushion today using Green Stuff (Kneadtite). This stuff works really well. Unlike Milliput it doesn't dissolve in water so is much easier and cleaner to work with, it basically acts like plasticine. I first tacked a rectangle of green stuff onto the massacred seat back and cleaned up the edges. Then started forming it with some soft colour shapers (silicon tipped paint brushes basically) to mold in the wrinkles and ridges. The bead around the edge was added by pressing in a flat sided tool around the edge followed by prodigious amounts of shaping. I found the stuff really easy to shape (provided you keep the tools wet), and it stayed nice and pliable for the whole couple of hours I was messing with it. I'm quite pleased with the outcome, even if the photo reveals it to be a bit rough I also finished off the rudder pedals and control column. The pedals were given a brush of dust pigment to dirty them up a bit. The impressions on the pedal came out pretty good after all.
  8. In the photo Antonio is quoting, can you see the little dials on top of the console (rudder and aileron trim), how did you make the little placards in front of them. The tamiya part doesn't have a little shelf like you have there. Hope this is clearer, if not don't worry too much about it, I love how much detail you've added there.
  9. Looking great, I like what you've achieved with the cockpit floor. You're taking it a few steps further than me here by rectifying the fuel gauge positions. One question, how did you represent the little curved placards in front of the two small trim dials on the floor console?
  10. High time updated my progress I think... So, on and off for the last few days I've been taking the cockpit sidewalls and floor parts through the painting process. After all the paint was done they were given a very light drybrush with various light beiges and greys before being glossed and carefully pin washed to add a bit more contrast. I used dark browny coloured enamel washes mostly. Just a tip when trying to clean up washes out of intricate little details use a tiny brush dampened in white spirit to brush and dilute away any staining or tide marks. Just be sure to wipe the brush onto some paper towel to get rid of the removed wash and redampen it every so often. I also went through and added a whole pile of little placards. These were cut from aluminum tape, stuck on and carefully burnished using a toothpick end and then painted over in red or black. I wasn't too worried about getting to the very edge of each placard to leave that aluminum border effect. I then used white oil paint with a sharpened toothpick to pick out the writing. I did have an Airscale placard set as well but struggled trying to find the right sizes and / or general look I wanted, in the end it was easier for me to scratch these. Just to elaborate on the oil paint stencils, make sure you get the very tiniest bit of paint on the end of the toothpick and dab it down once on a piece of paper before you start. This will remove most of the paint and let you get a very fine dot. Also before 'reloading' the toothpick make sure you wipe any remaining paint off to keep the end sharp. Most importantly remember that oil paints take forever to dry and before doing anything else make sure you seal it with a gloss coat. I also rebuilt the flare cartridge case from a bit of plastic (and aluminum tape) discarding my rubbish milliput molding. I also added the little cloth cover thing which covers an wiring junction in the bay next to the oxygen hose connector. It was made from a bit of tamiya tape carefully folded in to form a sagging cover and painted. And finally I used some Airscale instruments for the floor fuel gauges and a little gauge on one of the cockpit sidewall boxes. Once flatted down I went back and re-glossed over the dial faces with some Tamiya X22 thinned slightly with water. I also freshened up the shiney metallic parts which predictably lost a bit of lustre after the flat coat. And so without further waffle here are the finished sidewalls and floor sections. I think the IP will be next, I found the Airscale instruments worked pretty well, which is good since I'll be putting down a whole lot more of them.
  11. WIP: 1/48 Eduard 190A-4 "white 10"

    Love the colour scheme, great paintwork!
  12. Dials look great, I may use that method myself. How did you stick the clear covers down?
  13. [yet another] 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1a

    I think those belts turned out great, remember we can't always see the belts from this angle to pick out the bend around the seat edge, when closed into the cockpit those will look great. Great painting work by the way and I really like the twisted belt. That's one thing you can't do with PE belts.
  14. @Johnny1000 I place a drop of the paint straight from the bottle on a piece of used aluminium tape backing (I really should invest in a proper palette at some point ) then paint by dipping the brush in water first then loading it with a little paint. It's not an exact process but it seems to work well for me, just be sure to brush a few test strokes to check the consistency and re-dip the tip in water or load more paint as required. It sometimes takes a few tries to get the consistency in the range I like. I think in general these paints don't need a lot of water to thin to a good workable consistency. If anything I prefer to paint with slightly thicker paint to prevent globs of paint from running off the brush into crevices and difficult spots. The small brush may also help but I have used a similar method with a size 0 brush as well. Hope that helps,
  15. @Biggles87 You sure that's the only reason you bought nail painting brushes
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