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1:32 Tamiya Spitfire Mk.IXc


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Before starting on the grey/green camo’ I applied some LP-11 along the wing roots and other areas where I plan to “chip” the camo’ colours later in the build.

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Liquid mask was used for the wing root wear pattern.

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The silver areas were then given a coat of hairspray for future chipping.

 

 

Next I’ll be continuing with the grey colour…

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Once again I’ve opted for Tamiya’s “pot” XF-82 ocean gray 2 (RAF) version rather than AS-31 rattle can.

 

First the marble layer mix of XF-82 50/50 MrLevelling thinner…

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…followed by XF-64 red brown to add some staining…

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The whole marble layer was then blended with light coats of highly diluted approx 80/20 XF-82…

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Next I’ll be continuing with the green camo’…

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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That's looking good, John :) Is it just me, or is the XF-82 rather similar to the colour of Eduard's plastic?

 

James

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17 hours ago, 81-er said:

That's looking good, John :) Is it just me, or is the XF-82 rather similar to the colour of Eduard's plastic?

 

James

 

16 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

Looking good John, nice progress too,like the marbling effects.

Chris

thanks chaps

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Once again I’ve opted for Tamiya’s “pot” version XF-81 dark green 2 (RAF) rather than AS-30 rattle can.

 

Some time ago I purchased a camo’ mask set from AML.

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I’ve not used this type of mask set before so I’ll be interesting to see how I get on when them? The masks cover the grey parts…

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There were a couple of places that I needed to use some liquid mask and I think I’ll need to extend the grey in a couple of places?

 

Once the masks had been applied I first made the marble layer with a mix of XF-81 50/50 MrLevelling thinner…

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The masks were then removed.

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There are a couple of places where I didn’t spray the grey that’ll need fixing.

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Next I’ll be fixing the missing grey parts…

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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That's looking very sharp, John, and the fixes on the grey should be quick and easy. Are you planning to paint on the insignia and markings as well?

 

James

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15 minutes ago, 81-er said:

That's looking very sharp, John, and the fixes on the grey should be quick and easy. Are you planning to paint on the insignia and markings as well?

 

James

thanks James

 

I've got a Montex mask set for the rondel and markings so I'll be painting them 👍

 

6 minutes ago, TeaWeasel said:

Fantastic build, looking forward to updates.

thanks TeaWeasel

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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So I’ve no idea why I didn’t apply the grey "all over" and I’m even more mystified why I didn’t rectify it before I applied the mask(s) for the green?, it would have been so much easier than have to mask the green, the ALM set only has masks for the grey!, still “next time” I won’t make the same mistake, I’ll make different ones instead 😜.

 

I used the “backing” film from the mask set to act as masks for the green areas along with some Tamiya tape to protect from overspray.

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Once masked the grey was applied.

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These masking issues were entirely of my own making, if I’d sprayed the entire airframe with the grey I wouldn’t have had any problems.

 

Before I add the wing rondel and as the light was good I managed to take a photo that better shows the effect of the marble layer and “staining” of the grey camo.

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Next I’ll be painting the roundels and markings (Montex set)…

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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On 22/06/2023 at 13:49, 81-er said:

The staining and modulation are very effective

 

James

 

On 22/06/2023 at 19:03, bigbadbadge said:

Nice paintwork John, looking good fella.

Chris

 

14 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

Seconded.

 

John

thanks chaps 👍

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I’m not trying to portray a specific aircraft for this build however, as I wanted to paint the markings, I prefer to paint than use decals, happily Montex have a set with my initials “JHC” for the fuselage code letters, it’d be rude not to use them.

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There’s, for me, an issue with the Montex set in that the upper wing roundels are too small, for my licking, and also “non-standard” having white and yellow rings…

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…I’m guessing that they were applied later in the war, perhaps for a specific operation?, I think that post war the yellow outer rings were common for RAF schemes?, anyway their not my preferred roundel so I’ll be painting the “standard” blue and red version.

 

The “outer” mask(s) for both fin-flash and roundels were positioned and Tamiya tape added to try and protect from overspray.

When I’ve used these type of masks previously I’ve had paint seeping under the outer mask, so to try and prevent this I first sprayed the “outer ring” with a varnish to create a “dam”, and then a marbled base colour of MRP-004 white…

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My thinking behind a marble layer of white is to continue the tonal variation(s) similar to the camo’ colours. I’ve made the marbling “heavier” on the upper wing roundels as they would have been most effected by “weather”?

 

Once the white had dried, the outer yellow fuselage ring was applied with MRP-122 marking yellow, I’ll use the same colour when I paint the wing leading edge ident’ markings…

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…the circle masks, apart from the “bulls eye” were applied before MRP-123 marking red…

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every time I use this red "at this stage" I always think its too rusty orange, however it (so far) has always turned out to be just right

 

…the red was then masked and before the final ring colour, blue, applied with MRP-124 marking blue, the yellow and red overspray were painted white.

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Masks removed.

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Oh bugger! the wing roundels are in the wrong place. When I first saw them I tried to persuade myself I could ignore them, but I can’t so next I’ll be “fixing” those wing roundels…

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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2 hours ago, Thom216 said:

Great work on the paint and markings!

thanks Thom216

 

however I've decided that I can't live with the wing roundels, their too far back, so I'm in the process of repainting them

 

11 minutes ago, Pete in Lincs said:

It looks good to me, John. You're doing a great job, Mate.

thanks Pete

 

I'm enjoying the painting (so far) even with the mistakes as it gives me practice "fixing" them, the older I get the more practice I need 🤪

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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2 minutes ago, shortCummins said:

thanks Thom216

 

however I've decided that I can't live with the wing roundels, their too far back, so I'm in the process of repainting them

 

Will you completely remove them, or leave some 'ghost roundels?'

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1 minute ago, Thom216 said:

Will you completely remove them, or leave some 'ghost roundels?'

hopefully completely remove then however, I've not striped the paint but just over-sprayed with the grey and green and then the roundel red & blue. There's a slight ridge where the "old" roundel was however I plan to "correct" that, if its really noticeable, with some light sanding when I get to the weathering.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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I managed to paint the wing roundels too far back from the leading edge…

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The red circle shows where they should be.

 

Firstly I spayed the roundels with Tamiya XF-82…

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…followed by XF-81…

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The beauty of using vinyl masks, these ones are made using Oramask 810, is that they can be re-used, if I’d used blue-tac sausages and masking tape, my other choice, I’d not have been able to “exactly” replicate the camo’?

 

Having mislocated the wing roundels once I’ve decided to paint the wing leading edge yellow ident’ marking first, “sods law” suggests I would have positioned the roundels too far forward otherwise?

 

The AML mask set contains masks for these ident’ stripes…

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…I mixed a pink colour, MRP-004 white and a “drop” of MRP-123 marking red, to use as a base for the MRP-122 marking yellow.

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@bigbadbadge & @marvinneko over on Chris’ excellent RAAF Vampire target tug build log…

…have had a discussion on what colour undercoat to use for yellow, black or grey may make the yellow appear too dull, white is a good option however I’ve found pink to give better (brighter) results.

 

I can now position the wing roundels “correctly” and paint them as previously.

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I’m much happier with them.

 

 

Next I’ll be adding the JHC fuselage code letters…

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Great recovery John looks fantastic.  Thanks for the mention and link to the Vampire, the pink definitely works well, but I figured for brushpainting it won't work for me and would just add another layer of paint so painted straight on the plastic.

Looking forward to seeingvthe lettering go on and the big reveal.

Chris

 

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17 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Brilliant repair job, John. I think we can safely blame the hot weather for the slight positioning up cock.

ha ha

 

thanks Pete, I can never find a punkhawallah when I need one? 

 

15 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

Great recovery John looks fantastic.  Thanks for the mention and link to the Vampire, the pink definitely works well, but I figured for brushpainting it won't work for me and would just add another layer of paint so painted straight on the plastic.

Looking forward to seeingvthe lettering go on and the big reveal.

Chris

 

thanks Chris

 

I'm guessing that as you brush paint multiple thin coats? to both build up opacity and reduce brush marks that the base colour wouldn't make a lot of difference unless the plastic was a dark colour? I remember a Revell/Monogram B-26 having very dark green plastic, almost black. Lacquer paints (MRP) go on in very thin layers from the airbrush so unless I use a pink/white base colour I'd be spraying multiple coats of yellow and, probably, end up with a "muddy" yellow?

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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4 hours ago, shortCummins said:

thanks Chris

 

I'm guessing that as you brush paint multiple thin coats? to both build up opacity and reduce brush marks that the base colour wouldn't make a lot of difference unless the plastic was a dark colour? I remember a Revell/Monogram B-26 having very dark green plastic, almost black. Lacquer paints (MRP) go on in very thin layers from the airbrush so unless I use a pink/white base colour I'd be spraying multiple coats of yellow and, probably, end up with a "muddy" yellow?

Yes, for me it would just add another layer of paint in the end  so not worth doing, unless a dark plastic as you said.  The pink is definitely worth using if airbrushing.

Chris

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