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shortCummins

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Everything posted by shortCummins

  1. The interior was given a coat of gloss and then Tamiya panel line dark brown was applied. After 20 minutes or so the excess was cleaned… I dry-brushed the map case… …and switch box and controls. Foot pedals and tubular frame were dry-brushed to add some wear and tear. After adding a dull coat next I’ll be assembling the cockpit… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  2. thanks Mark I really like that scheme, I'm also going with a wooden prop, yours has come out really nice (the whole model not just the prop!) no problem with you posting a photo, more would be nice rgds John(shortCummins)
  3. thanks chaps nice tip on the struts Chris I hadn't thought that far ahead which is a bit silly when building a bi-plane. rgds John(shortCummins)
  4. Rather than mask and spray the horizontal ribs I decided to try my hand at hand painting them with vallejo 71.010 interior green. I didn’t bother with the ribs toward the rear of the fuselage as these won’t be seen, also I’m hoping that a pin wash will tidy up the edges of those that will be seen. The interior green was also used to highlight some of the frame. Also I used aluminium to dry brush the edges of the seats… …cockpit floor… …a rudder pedels. White was use as a base for the red fire extinguisher and control knobs. vallejo 70.957 red was applied once the white base had dried. The map case was brush painted with vallejo 70.983 flat earth. Next I’ll be giving everything a gloss coat and then applying a pin-wash… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  5. Revell would have you use olive green and aluminium for the main cockpit colours so I started with Xtreme metal 481 polished aluminium for the aluminium. Once the aluminium had dried the internal ribs were masked and XF-62 olive drab was applied. I’ve yet to decide if I should paint the horizontal ribs, I know I should however I’m not going to mask and spray them, if I decide that they need painting then I’ll break-out a hairy stick and lay off the coffee for a couple of hours! Other parts were also sprayed with XF-62 Next I’ll be adding detail colours… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  6. we'll see if it works or not, I've never tried it before
  7. My first task was to remove both the Revell text from the rear wing and also the moulded seat harness’. The yellow plastic makes it very difficult to see how “cleanly” the removals have been made so the seat were given a coat of black primer (the rear wing will be given a coat of white primer later in the build) Then I sprayed Stynylrez black primer on these and other parts. Next I’ll be adding some colour to these primed parts… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  8. Revell give you moulded in/on seat harness’ that aren’t very good so I'll have to file them off and then I’ll replace them with some HGW paper/PE ones once the cockpit has been assembled. At the same time I bought some Yahu IPs I’ve got to say that I’m not a fan of the yellow plastic, another thing I’m not a fan of is that Revell have added their name and date to the rear wing, why not add it to the inside of the fuselage if they have to do that sort of thing? They have added their name to the inside of one of the wings… …and I assume that the factory? have added their mark to the other wing. For the first time, for me, I’ve decided to add some liquid mask to protect the join parts to save me the (little) effort of cleaning off paint later in the build to help with glue up. Next I’ll be preparing various parts for primer. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  9. thanks James this mojo thing is fickle at times and when "life" gets in the way I think its a good idea to do something different to try an ignite the "spark" again rgds John(shortCummins)
  10. it was a really difficult decision however if I can keep my hand in building the Revell Steaman, it looks a good kit and should be straight forward, I know I'll get more bench time after the festivities and I can back to this with a passion. rgds John(shortCummins)
  11. I’m having an issue with motivation to continue my kit-bash build of a twin boomed, bi-plane Stuka, its been sitting on my desk for a couple of weeks and for some reason I can’t get “in gear” enough to move on with the build. It’s not as as I don’t know what or how I need to do “next” I’m not in the kit-bashing zone and with Christmas and New Year on the horizon I'm not going to be able to dedicate enough time to that build so I think I need another “straight forward” build to get the modelling juices flowing again. Last year my youngest gave me a birthday present of the Revell 1:48 Stearman PT-17 Kaydet and I thought this would be just the thing to get my mojo back? The kit gives you a couple of different schemes… US Navy US Army …however I want to do a slightly different scheme as I’m not too keen on either the all yellow or blue bodied versions. Trawling the old inter-webs I came across this scheme: I really like the light grey, I can use the kit decals for the fuselage band and ID numbers. Whilst searching for schemes I also found a Navy aircraft with the red, white and blue tail fin… …so I’ll probably opt for a tail like that, I think l may paint it rather than use the decals. As with most aircraft kits I’ll start with the cockpit. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  12. I'm putting this "on hold" until after the new year as I can't see me getting the appropriate amount of bench time to do the sort of work that this requires I shall return rgds John(shortCummins)
  13. thanks for the idea Thom216 at this point nothing is set in stone although I really like the way the P-38's exhaust stains the top of each boom rgds John(shortCummins)
  14. thanks James I'm hoping that the "hinges" will be noticeable but not too noticeable once they've had the camo' applied rgds John(shortCummins)
  15. There were some rivets that were too deep as well as some wayward panel lines that needed some attention so theses were filled with sprue-goo. The sprue-goo was cleaned-up… …and a coat of black paint was used to check the amendments. Then I replaced the missing rivets and re-scribed some of the panel lines. I wanted to represent a “piano” type hinge to the gun bays so I glued some stretched sprue along to top of these panels. These hinges are a little difficult to see at the moment, being on black?, I’m sure that when their painted light blue that they’ll show up better. Next I’ll be working out how the nacelles will fit to the wings and twin booms… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  16. Now that the nose is in a reasonable state, still some bits’n’pieces that need to be fixed but I want to do something different before I get too tied down so it's time to have a look at the nacelles. At one point I was just going to use the exhausts from the Stuka however along with the P-38 machine-gun nose I found a set of Eduard Brasin P-38 turbochargers and air intakes… …so my intention is to now use the turbocharges in place of the “normal” exhausts as I really like the look of them on P-38s and will be easier to paint the exhaust stains once the upper wings are fitted. I’d already glued the exhaust stacks in place so I need to remove these so they were cut flush. And then filled with some sprue-goo. Recently I’d watched one of Will Patterson’s YouTube videos where he said that he’d added some lacquer paint to help identify which was the “filler” to aid with the cleaning-up process, so not being ashamed of using someone else’s good idea(s) I’ve added some azure blue to my sprue-goo. The sprue-goo will be left to fully cure, at least overnight and probably 24 hours, then any divots will be refilled and finally sanded flush. Next I’ll be working out how these will fit to the wings and twin booms… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  17. I've just been given one of these kits as a birthday present, I hope I can make as good a job as you have. rgds John(shortCummins)
  18. masking the glass will be an interesting exercise, looking really good so far rgds John(shortCummins)
  19. So there were a few “dinks” that needed to be filled which I did with some more sprue-goo and sanded flush. Where the “nose” joins the fuselage and also to the P-38 machine-gun part, I want to add a panel line, so I used some flexible tape to act as a guide and scribed it. I also wanted to add some access panels so that the machine guns can be re-armed and maintained. A panel was scribed and some “fasteners” added, then I “cleaned” the primer off with an isopropanol wipe so that I could see the markings… …then another coat of Stynylrez black primer was applied. It looks as if some of the sprue-goo has fallen out so I’ll get some Holts knifing putty see if that does a better job. Next I’ll be returning to the engine nacelles… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  20. thanks for the tip Uncle Monty as I suffer with a "bad chest" I tend to use a mask whenever I spray or sand anything but its worth pointing out the issues you can unknowingly cause yourself. rgds John(shortCummins)
  21. thanks for the tip, all this is new to me and I'll have some more work to do once I add the twin booms and while the sprue-goo works, it takes several layers to build up and therefore takes quite a while, not that I'm in a rush but I'd like to have less time having to wait before I can continue. rgds John(shortCummins)
  22. After leaving the sprue-goo to cure overnight as expected some of the divots will need topping up, this could take several goes. On the fourth attempt I think their looking about right.. However before adding the panel-lines, rivets and access hatches I’ll give the nose a coat of Stynylrez black primer just to what other “work” is needed. Next I’ll be finishing off the dinks and then adding the panel lines and rivet detail to the nose… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  23. thanks lads I must admit to being very happy with the result, so much better than my first attempt rgds John(shortCummins)
  24. I agree with Pete that the chequered tips look good, I wanted a light colour but not white, so these were masked and given a coat of MRP-257 clear doped linen variant 1. Then I masked some squares and gave them a coat of Tamiya XF-81 dark RAF green. Pete also suggested that I could use foil for the leading edges, I thought that it was a really good idea however, I’m really pleased with the way these look so I’m going to leave them "as is", at least until after a coat of semi-matt and then decide on the leading edges later in the build. Here is what they look like with the spinner… Im really happy with the more muted colours, the previous orange "varnish" didn't work for me, these "light browns" along with the green and off-white give an "old fashioned photo" feel that has turned out better that I'd imagined. Next I’ll be going back to the nose… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
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