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shortCummins

1:32 Tamiya Spitfire Mk.IXc

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So my next build will be (yet) another Spitfire, can’t have too many Spitfire’s?!, this time I’m straying from my preferred scale 1:48 to attempt the highly praised Tamiya 1:32 Spitfire Mk.IXc.

 

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To “help” I’ve got a copy of Brett Green’s “How to build…” book.

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I’m going to build a “what if” or “might have been” aircraft, I’m going to give the aircraft JHC letters, these are my initials, and to achieve this I’ll be using a Montex mask set, MXK32357.

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I’ll change the upper wing roundels to be the “normal” size as I don’t like to smaller version depicted in the layout drawing.

Also I’m tempted to add lower “invasion stripes” to the wing and fuselage, just because I like them, like I said its a “what if” or “might have been” so why not?

This sort of thing…

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Some time ago Will Patterson built this kit and showed how to use the HGW wet transfer stencils, they don’t have any carrier-film as therefore look more like that have been “painted” so I thought I’d give them a go.

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Also from HGW is a set of their “textile” seatbelts.

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I’ve also got some resin replacement parts.

Aires wheels.

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QuickBoost cockpit door.

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Barracuda rocker covers, they have Rolls Royce stamped on them, missing from the Tamiya offerings.

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Master gun barrels (C wing)

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As “normal” I’ll be starting with the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Hi John,

 

I don't think you will be disappointed in the kit.  From my own "oooh" and "aweing" with my kit, it looks amazing.

 

Take care,

 

Chris

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I'll be watching with interest John - I have the same kit very near the top of the pile! Might have to look at some of those AM goodies too!

 

All the best,

 

Roger

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Well you’recertainly ‘not letting the grass grow’ John, as mentioned above it’s a beautiful kit and I’m sure you’ll enjoy building i

 

Stay safe

 

John

 

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10 hours ago, Dadeo911 said:

Hi John,

 

I don't think you will be disappointed in the kit.  From my own "oooh" and "aweing" with my kit, it looks amazing.

 

Take care,

 

Chris

thanks Chris, just "looking" at the various sprue and instruction manual I'm really looking forward to this build.

 

9 hours ago, Dunny said:

I'll be watching with interest John - I have the same kit very near the top of the pile! Might have to look at some of those AM goodies too!

 

All the best,

 

Roger

Thanks Roger, I've "restrained" from too much aftermarket, well I think I have I'm sure others will disagree, especially the wife, anywho I think painted insignia is a must, especially for the JHC ident, and I've never got on with Tamiya decals so that was an easy choice.

The rest you could easily use the kit parts but I wanted to try HGW seatbelts and stencils and I'm not a fan of "rubber" tyres.

The gun barrels and cockpit door are a "luxury" but look soooo nice.

 

6 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

Well you’recertainly ‘not letting the grass grow’ John, as mentioned above it’s a beautiful kit and I’m sure you’ll enjoy building i

 

Stay safe

 

John

 

thanks John, when I open the box, it arrived a week ago, I very nearly "shelved" the Sea Fury so that I could start this kit straight away!

 

best rgrds

John(shortCummins)

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49955970596_b2c3fce3d0.jpg

 

So the cockpit, isn’t 1:32 big compared to 1:48, my hat is well and truly doffed to any of you working in 1:72 or smaller, my eyes are no longer up to seeing such little stuff even with an Optivisor.

Studying the parts I’m just blown away with the quality of the moulding.

The first thing that the instructions have you do is to attach the “rear wheel” section to the fuselage. These sections are located by a “lip” and a couple of pins…

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The “fit” is close to perfect, I defy anyone to mess it up, even with my fat fingers this joint disappeared and no-one would know that the fuselage was made from two separate pieces, magical engineering.

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If this is indicative of how the rest of this kit goes together then I’m in for an absolute treat.

 

I’m guessing that Tamiya have done this so that different versions can be made, I think the Mk.VIII had a rear wheel that could be retracted?

 

So before I add any primer to the cockpit and interior there are a few parts that needed trimming.

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As far as is practical I’m going to leave smaller parts attached to their sprue to make it easier(?) to paint.

 

 

 

Next I’ll continue with the preparations for painting the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Yup, Mk.VIII had retracting tailwheels.


 

 

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49967356867_0154190085.jpg

 

Continuing with the cockpit, this is probably overkill but I’ve drilled out the lightening holes in the formers.

The former that supports the seat holes were drilled with 0.9 and 1.2 drill bits.

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On the “rear” cockpit former I only deepened the “top” holes using a 0.75 bit, the horizontal brace part had 0.65 holes drilled through.

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Some of the parts I want to keep on the sprue for a couple of reasons, ease of handling and part identification.

It’s often easier to “hold” the sprue with crocodile clips or clothes pegs without damaging the paint however, in some instances the paint will get damaged when you remove the part from the sprue.

Also quite often they’ll be left and right parts that look, more or less, the same but will have some subtile difference, its “Murphy’s Law” that I’d choose the left part to attach on the right side and vies-versa, keeping the “part number” with the part often, but not always!, helps me with this sort of self-inflicted issue.

Whenever possible I remove the sprue connections, allowing “full” paint coverage.

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For the parts that I can’t keep attached to their sprue I use 3M double sided pads to fix them to coffee stirrers, lolly sticks etc. if I remember I’ll write the part number on the stick.

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The nice thing about these double sided pads is that you can cut them to quite small sizes without them loosing their usefulness.

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As always(?) there are some parts that need fixing to cocktail sticks/tooth picks in order to get to all sides or are otherwise difficult to “hold” any other way.

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Previously I would have used CA to attach the part to the wood however I’ve found that often either a residue of the CA and/or part of the wood is left behind when the part is snapped off, so now I’ve taken to using Mr Masking Sol as a “glue”. The advantage of masking fluid is that it can be removed easily and also “protects” the area making it easier to glue the part with Tamiya Extra Thin or “regular” plastic glue and not CA, I find the CA often tends to dry with a “gloss” finish.

 

Finally before I apply the primer some of the parts are masked purely to aid with glue adhesion further on in the build.

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Next I’ll get around to applying some primer.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Once again I’ve used UMP/Stynylrez black primer.

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Adding primer to the photo etch is essential to getting the “colour” paint to adhere properly.

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The IP looks really nice…

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I had thought to buy the Yahu IP, they’re really good, however I’m going to try and use the kit version, if I mess up the painting I can always get the Yahu version?

 

Seat.

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Oxygen and compressed air bottles.

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Next I’ll be applying the “base” cockpit colours.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49973308112_f4e7dd9c31.jpg

 

So I managed to “forget” to spray the primer on the wing section/cockpit floor.

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This shows the benefit, or lack of?, reading the manual BEFORE starting the build or paint. Not a big deal but if I’d not spotted that I’d missed the preparation for the basic cockpit colours then I’d have to wait, later in the build, to apply weathering and possibly adding the wing to the fuselage.

 

Tamiya would have you remove a couple of areas in the lower wing, the leading edge of the wing gun-camera port(?), and another panel slightly back from the gun-camera. I’ve removed the plastic for the camera port but I’ve decided to leave the panel. I looked a several reference photos and I can’t see any with this panel removed so I’m leaving it in place.

 

I’m using Tamiya XF-71 cockpit green for the cockpit and Xtreme Metal AK479 aluminium for the fuselage interior as per Tamiya’s instructions.

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Well, I had planned to use XF-71 but when I opened to bottle I found out that it was empty, only dried paint so, I switched to Alkan BS:283 aircraft grey/green.

 

I first laid-down the AK479…

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Once the Xtreme Metal had dried it was masked off…

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…and then the BS:283 applied.

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When the masking was removed I noticed a few places where the aluminium needs touching up, mostly down to my masking errors!

 

 

Next the “base” flat aluminium, grey compressed air bottles and seat colour.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49976512703_ef5ea71ddc.jpg

 

Continuing with the “base” colours for the cockpit.

Tamiya would have you paint this part XF-16 flat aluminium however I decided to use vallejo 77.717 dull aluminium, the only reason was that I found it first in my “paint stash”, I’m sure that I’ve a pot of XF-16 in there somewhere.

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The seat was sprayed with XF-64 red brown, I found that one!

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XF-19 sky grey is suggested for the compressed air cylinders however I’ve not got that colour so I substituted XF-66 light grey, I know its a little darker but I figured that as its in the cockpit it’d be close enough?

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Next I’ll be adding detail paint to various parts of the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Good progress with the cockpit painting.

Just in case you hadn't already noticed, the artificial horizon in the kit IP is incorrect for a wartime aircraft, but as you're building a ' what if ' it probably won't matter.

Stay safe.

 

John

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46 minutes ago, Biggles87 said:

Good progress with the cockpit painting.

Just in case you hadn't already noticed, the artificial horizon in the kit IP is incorrect for a wartime aircraft, but as you're building a ' what if ' it probably won't matter.

Stay safe.

 

John

thanks for that John I hadn't noticed, I've not looked at the decals too closely as I don't plan on using many of them.

the manual shows it as lights grey is the decal blue on the reverse? then that would surely be wrong.

I'm going to attempt to "paint" the IP, if I mess it up I'll get either the Yahu or Eduard Look version, if the AF grates too much then that'll be another excuse to spend some pennies.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49979572683_a92f447b52.jpg

 

Following on from John’s timely advise on the AH decal I thought that I’d try my hand at detail painting the kit instrument panel, if I mess it up I’ll fall back to plan “B” and purchase either the Yahu or Eduard Look version.

So I started by giving the “back” part of the IP a coat of Tamiya XF-69 NATO black, Tamiya would have you paint it semi-gloss black which is probably correct however I want the “front” panel to be a slightly different shade so I’m going to leave that the UMP/Stynylrez black primer. The NATO black has a slight green hue and I’m hoping will be different enough to notice without being glaringly different.

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I’ve found this photo, somewhere on the inter web, which I’m going to use as a guide for the dial bevel colours.

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I started with the top red ‘boost’ indicator, Alkan RLM:23.

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Next the green ‘water temperature’?, I think the green I used Hobby Color H26 bright green was a little too bright?

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You can see from this photo that I’ll need to touch-up the black, I’ll wait until I’ve finished all of the detail painting.

 

Tamiya would have you paint the ‘oil temperature’ dial bronze?, to my eyes this is dark orange so I mixed Alkan red and yellow.

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And finally the yellow ‘oil pressure’ gauge was first given a white base and then yellow, Hobby Color H329, top coat.

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NATO black touched up

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Then I gave them a coat of Matt McDoogal’s magic acrylic wash, here’s a link to his YouTube video on how and why he uses it…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pRyuCKu_VU

 

Acrylic wash applied…

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For reference here’s how I made my version of  "D oog’s" wash:

Equal parts water and Alclad aqua gloss and 3 drop of Tamiya X-1 gloss black.

 

 

Next more cockpit paint details.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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That's looking really good so far. I built this kit about 2 years ago and the only thing I have to say is be very careful with the engine frame assembly. The instructions aren't perfect and I found that fitting the myriad of oil cooler pipes caused a terminal problem for me. It was probably me, but when I came to finally fit the engine cowling parts they would not line up at all, no matter how I tried. A careful examination of my 'work' showed me that from the beginning I hadn't lined up the many pieces of the engine tubular frame sections properly.

 

It was very slightly askew and wasn't going to be put right. Partial dismantling didn't work either because the glue had really done its job.

 

In the end I had to remove the engine and frame assembly completely and make a replacement out of plastic card sections to hang the cowlings onto. They still looked crap though and the overall effect wasn't pleasant. And I'd wasted all the effort I put into the engine, which by the time wasn't fit for external display either.

 

So, since this is your first 1/32 Spitfire (i think you said that) be careful when it goes together, check the alignment and check it again!

 

I'm looking forward to seeing the progress you're making.

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7 hours ago, Martin1962 said:

That's looking really good so far. I built this kit about 2 years ago and the only thing I have to say is be very careful with the engine frame assembly. The instructions aren't perfect and I found that fitting the myriad of oil cooler pipes caused a terminal problem for me. It was probably me, but when I came to finally fit the engine cowling parts they would not line up at all, no matter how I tried. A careful examination of my 'work' showed me that from the beginning I hadn't lined up the many pieces of the engine tubular frame sections properly.

 

It was very slightly askew and wasn't going to be put right. Partial dismantling didn't work either because the glue had really done its job.

 

In the end I had to remove the engine and frame assembly completely and make a replacement out of plastic card sections to hang the cowlings onto. They still looked crap though and the overall effect wasn't pleasant. And I'd wasted all the effort I put into the engine, which by the time wasn't fit for external display either.

 

So, since this is your first 1/32 Spitfire (i think you said that) be careful when it goes together, check the alignment and check it again!

 

I'm looking forward to seeing the progress you're making.

thanks for the "heads up" about the engine frame, I plan to add a bit of plumbing so there's going to be much test-fitting & re-fitting and scratching of bald-spot.

 

this is my first 1/32, I've built half a dozen 1/48, mainly Eduard but I did build the Mk1 Airfix when I first got back into the hobby. Funnily enough I started an Eduard MkVIII with their resin cockpit and engine a while ago but stopped the build when we moved I'll probably go back to it once I've finished this one, the couple of resin extras and the ProfiPACK kit probably cost about the same as the Tamiya 1/32 so I'll defiantly go back to it.

 

so far I'm really enjoying the build, taking my time and trying to do the best job I can

 

best rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49984208593_c1512f7f7f.jpg

 

These are the “spare” light bulbs, for the gun sight?, Tamiya would have you paint the bulb holder X-12 gold leaf however I chose to use Mr Metal Color 219 brass as these were far more likely to be made of brass rather than gold plated?

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The “glass” of the bulbs were painted XF-2 white.

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The support “bracket” was painted with Alkan BS:283 aircraft grey/green.

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And finally the junction box was treated with more of D oog’s magic wash.

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Don’t worry I won’t be detailing to “detail paint” process for every item in this much detail, I’ll probably just show the “finished” result(s).

 

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Tamiya would have you leave this flat aluminium however I decided to add a touch of grey green.

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Next the continuing with the cockpit paint and build.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Seconded.

The ‘rad temp’ gauge in the rear cockpit of the Spitfire I flew in was at the bottom left. It was pointed out to me by the pilot and I watched it rise steadily as we taxied in from the runway.  

 

john

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48 minutes ago, Shark444 said:

Looking great!

👍

29 minutes ago, Biggles87 said:

Seconded.

The ‘rad temp’ gauge in the rear cockpit of the Spitfire I flew in was at the bottom left. It was pointed out to me by the pilot and I watched it rise steadily as we taxied in from the runway.  

 

john

now you've made me jealous John, I'd love a trip in a Spitfire, one day. I was lucky enough to have a flight in my favourite aircraft a DH.89 Dragon Rapide along the Cornish coastline, one of my favourite days. I've also just ordered a 1/32 DH.89 kit from Lukgraph that should arrive in a month or so, I know I won't have finished the Mk.IV by then so I'll have to be patient 

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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1/32nd? There's no going back now. Lots of nice detail painting, mate. Don't forget, no red crowbars until after WW2. (probably)

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15 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

1/32nd? There's no going back now. Lots of nice detail painting, mate. Don't forget, no red crowbars until after WW2. (probably)

Thanks Pete I've bought/ordered/waiting for the Quickboost cockpit door that allows you to omit the crowbar however I'll probably paint it black, Mick Jagger told me to do it, but that's a way down the road and I'm waiting for Hannants to get them, and more pressingly the HGW seat belts, back in stock, still plenty to be going on with.

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49994667752_850696a818.jpg

 

I decided to re-paint the compressed air cylinders, I struggled with the retaining straps, grey green, so I masked them with some Tamiya tape. I don’t think I’d have been able to do this without my Infini cutting mat.

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As I’d found my XF-19 sky grey it made sense to use it to respray them the correct colour.

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Whilst rummaging for the XF-19 I found that I had some Airscale cockpit placards and decided to use a couple on these tanks.

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Another of the Airscale placards was applied to the oxygen bottle.

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Next I’ll be adding additional decals to the cockpit.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49998268452_6a938731a2.jpg

 

While I was in “decal mode” I added the kit decals to the compass…

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…and to the instruments of the IP.

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You can see that Tamiya have decided that the AH is blue, true of todays aircraft but not WWII Spitfires, its a shame they’ve done this but I still have the option of an “after market” IP.

Although the remaining instruments look OK I’m still undecided.

 

Anyhow, I also found a set of decals from Anyz.

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I used some of these “generic” dots/dashes to represent writing underneath some of the instruments and then the instrument panel was given a coat of satin varnish.

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I’ve outlined the decals in red as they are quite difficult to see, mainly because of the light bouncing off the varnish?

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One thing to note about these Anyz decals is that they are very small and difficult to see whilst still on thier backing paper. The main problem is that, at least for the ones I used, is that they are white on a pale blue backing, even with an Optivisor it was more of a guess than a confident “I know what I’m doing” job. Apart from that I can highly recommend these decals, Tamiya please take note!

 

Once the varnish had dried the “glass” was added and the IP assembled.

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For the compass I used the kit decal and then a blob of micro crystal clear was added to simulate glass.

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More these “generic” decals were used on the undercarriage control.

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Next even more detailing to the cockpit, boxes and switches etc.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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49998567012_45eb585440.jpg

 

While I had the ANYZ and airscale decals out I found a couple of other places that I could add some, I really like the subtile “interest” these add, I don’t really mind if there not accurate the “blue” artificial horizon will draw the eye more than these?

 

The radio switch box? had its switches dotted with red, dry brushed with grey and one of the airscale placard added.

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ANYZ “dots” were added to the fuel tank selector switch, I’d previously painted the top part black and the switch flat aluminium.

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I’ve also started adding the “plumbing”, on the left side under the IP I’ve added 3 copper wires, these will continue down the former towards the bottom of the cockpit, I’ll add these once I know how the “floor” parts fit to the former.

 

Tamiya XF-66 was used to dry-brush various “black” boxes, I may well add some more placards to some of these, I'll definitely be adding more to the fuselage walls and different boxes.

50012096613_1b1845997d_c.jpg

 

 

 

Next I’ll be starting on the seat, I’m still waiting for Hannants to send me the seat harness, when they receive the stock so I’ll be doing as much as I can until they arrive.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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