Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by TeaWeasel

  1. It really is surprising the difference between the two. What concerned me originally was how to break up the white a bit, but I've seen similar finishes on Vulcans and Valiants in anti-flash and it doesn't actually look too bad once the decals break it up a bit. The patchwork effect is because the guy in the mag has very heavily riveted it. I agree, it's not a great look.
  2. I'm still alive and the TSR's still being a pain in the bottom. The final parts have been attached. For the remaining doors I decided to just use the kit parts. They're actually better condition in some areas than the CMK ones and they won't be that visible anyway. But here's where it goes south when I started painting the thing. I bought a mag a while ago in Hannants, by Ammo. I say bought, it was more pushed into my hands by the guy there who probably has a stake in Ammo, seems to always try the hard-sell with their products. To give them credit the mag is pretty informative, and this particular one does have a TSR-2. It became clear though that these techniques are for beyond-expert modellers, IMO. The scheme recommended in the mag called for a white primer coat, then a coat of off-white, then another coat of white, then a very thin coat of white, then a coat of gloss before applying the decals. Through various issues, mainly the primer used (wouldn't recommend Ammo's One-Coat), the finish was pretty thick in my opinion. It wasn't the end of the world, but when I tried a pin wash it was obvious; some areas were filling in perfectly, others were just leading vague smears where the line would be. Out came the Biostrip... The scale of the problem became clear here, the gunk on the wings required 3 coats of stripper before getting down to the bare plastic. It's messy, and I've knocked a couple of the resin doors off (which I'll probably just replace with the kit ones) in the process but I think going with a simpler anti-flash white method would yield better results. One silver lining though, is I'm now much more interested in Ammo's products. Have tried the Oilbrushers, PLW and other various bits and pieces and I'm very, very impressed. Might even give the One-Coat Primer another go. Cheers, tips and advice appreciated. Joe
  3. Was expecting an F-35 Lightning, was delighted to see the proper version. Love it, got XS901 on my bench needing the last few decals.
  4. Thanks for the feedback everyone, given me some stuff to consider next time I give it a go. Next question is how this'll all interact with different paints. The example above was just a Vallejo metallic base with the chipping fluid and more Vallejo on top, but what if I were to introduce Tamiya, Gunze or even Alclad into the mix? I'm already aware of how badly Alclad can go wrong but what other combos should I avoid?
  5. Cheers Chris. I'd initially tried that method but I saw another video where the colour was applied in rough lines. I went back just applying a dot and it seems to have come out ok. I tested it out on a couple of spare parts from the TSR-2 which I also tested the chipping medium on. The Streaking Effect I'm not really that happy with, as it was still mostly obliterated as soon as the thinner was applied. The rest is actually not bad if I don't say so myself. The black streaks of Starsthip Filth* are a bit too stark but again, I'm happy with the overall result. *Yeah it's actually misspelt on the packaging. Cheers, Joe
  6. Good start. I never understood the turret on this thing, seems a little counter-intuitive to have such a huge profile like that.
  7. I've made a small investment in some of Ammo's weathering products, mainly the Streaking Effect, a couple of Oilbrushers, Ammo's own thinner and some brushes, but I'm having trouble achieving anything close to the effect even after following the techniques on AMmo's videos. The issue I'm having is two-fold; either the product is just obliterated by any thinner applied or it just leaves horrible brushstreaks. I had some success previously using an Oilbrusher but it wasn't much, still didn't look that realistic. With that in mind I have a few questions I haven't been able to find out myself: How much product and thinner should I apply ideally? How should I apply the Oilbrushers? I've seen videos of them applied in thin streaks or large blobs, neither seems to work. How long do I need to wait for the product to dry before working on it? Cheers
  8. Ordered an Airfix mystery box and received another 1/72 Zero, could be worse as it was a rather nice kit to put together but wanted a different scheme on this one. Someone on Facebook told me about the ATAIU-SEA Zeroes which from what I can gather were captured and tested by the Allies. I've ordered the relevant decals but am having trouble finding info on any particular colours these captured aircraft would have and the only actual photos I can find are black and white. Any similar models I've found just have a very heavily chipped green, but would there have been any alternative schemes in use? Cheers
  9. Love it! I had similar issues with the metal coat on my EE Lightning, looks like you recovered it a lot better than I did!
  10. Had some spare time last night so decided to fit the wings. Bit disappointed with the fit here, mainly due to the huge sprue gates, some of which are around 10mm thick. You can see where some of the edge was damaged trying to remove the sprue, will need a fair bit of putty to sort out. Ignore the bloodstain, sliced my thumb open trying to neaten the edges up. As I mentioned before I'd love it if Airfix decided to reintroduce some of these older kits, but they could do with a little bit of refinement in the sprues if they were to do so. While the wings were drying I had a look at the payload. After completing two Lightnings I'm getting a bit sick of building Red Tops, but these were slightly easier in that all the smaller fins were already attached. No trickly alignment, just the two missile halves and two large fins and you're done. In terms of payload, are there any references as to what the Vixen would typically carry? I was thinking of just having one pair of each, but would I fall afoul of the accuracy police? Thanks, comments welcome. Joe
  11. Looking good. I jumped the gun with mine a bit, didn't realise it'd be easier to mark out the intakes if I didn't glue them, oh well... Nice finish on the yellow tail as well
  12. Now that's all taken care of it's surprising how far I've sped ahead. The fuselage halves went together no problem, perfect fit. Still surprised at the accuracy of this kit, while it's still relatively new I was expecting some sanding and filling, none needed whatsoever. The twin booms were next, they were slightly trickier as some decent pressure was needed to avoid any gaps. Tail and elevator followed and overall resulted in a very solid build. Before adding the wings I thought I should get some of the smaller components added before it becomes a bit unwieldy. The intake vents consisted of two parts for each side, lost one inside the body at one point. The thought of having to open it back up to get to the part was a bit worrying, luckily a good shake of the thing dislodged it. Bit of excess primer from the cockpit interior, that'll all be removed before painting. I then moved onto the undercarriage. Usually I hold off on that until it's painted to avoid breaking it but this is pretty solid. The instructions could be a little clearer, particularly when showing the angle of the undercarriage door but a bit of patience paid off. I think I'll still leave the wheels off until it's finished just to make painting the undercarriage easier. That's it for now, but it's already becoming a bit of a monster. The wings and nosecone are missing and it's already larger than the Lightning! Will have to think carefully about how I go about storing this one. Cheers, Joe
  13. Seems obvious but I didn't realise that happened, same as this photo of a preserved example:
  14. Even if it sells well, it just seems like a saturated market. Every other company is producing Spitfires, Mustangs and Hurricanes, whereas it's a wide-open market for a 1/48 Lightning for example. Anyway, the last two of the subassemblies are finished. The tailhook was pretty fiddly and snapped in the same manner as the ejector handles. Luckily 3 are provided(!) and the break wouldn't be visible in the retracted position anyway. The exhausts were painted in the same manner as the intakes, just a coat of Vallejo silver with Nuln Oil around the fan blades. The fit was slightly more difficult this time with a bit of sanding needed around the rims of the exhaust cylinders. Here's the completed assembly. For some reason the very tip of the rear exhaust is a separate part, no idea why. And here's the lower fuselage assembly now with all 3 major subassemblies glued in. The tailhook is just underneath the exhaust system. Overall it feels pretty solid, gluing the fuselage halves will take a bit of time as there are plenty of contact points that'll need clamping, but before that I need to carve out the channels for the weapon pylons. For some reason Airfix has gone with the pylon attached via a groove rather than a couple of pins as they usually do. You can see the grooves near the wing folds need neatening up a bit, the plastic's pretty thin in this area so carving out a groove rather than just drilling a couple of holes is a bit of a nuisance. Thanks all, Joe
  15. Thanks, that does irk me a bit about Airfix; they released all these pretty stellar kits in the past like the Lightning, Vixen and TSR-2, but seem happy to just release yet another Spitfire every year. Why not bring them back?
  16. I've decided to leave the rest of the cockpit in the meantime, for 2 reasons: The last few levers are so minuscule it's not worth risking ruining the existing detail. Once the cockpit is in place it's mostly hidden anyway. One huge hiccup is the ejector seat handles. I have to question the mind of someone who put such a large sprue gate on such a delicate part but all 4 handles promptly snapped. I tried fashioning a replacement out of a paperclip but the scale is way off. Until I work out what to do the seats are on hold. With that out of the way I started adding the major components to the fuselage. The undercarriage bays and wing spars are firmly attached, the latter were a very snug, almost click-together fit. Very good quality from Airfix I must admit There are 3 major parts to add before I progress any further; the engine intakes, exhausts, and arrestor hook. I decided to start on the intakes, which I painted with a light coat of Vallejo silver. The intake fans then had a coat of Nuln Oil to emphasise the detail. The intake halves were significantly warped however. Luckily the parts are thin enough to just hold together by hand, no heating or cutting required to correct it. Next steps will be to complete the exhausts and arrestor hook, then get the whole fuselage assembled! Thanks all, comments welcome Joe
  17. Hi Neil, thanks for getting in touch and glad to hear it's all going well. Very interested in the Valiant B2 set, do you have a rough idea of when we can expect it, or would it be August as you mentioned previously?
  18. Gorgeous work, I tried an Alclad finish on my F3 but it ended up melting some significant areas, nice to see a completed example.
  19. Ah I didn't see the 3D print version on there. Have any updates been posted recently? I'm not familiar with the in's and out's of the smaller manufacturers so wouldn't know where to look.
  20. Had my eye on Airfix's Valiant for a while and saw on Scalemates that Aircraft in Miniature Ltd produce a handy B2 conversion set but I can't seem to find any for sale. Is AIM still in business, and does anyone know if this product is discontinued or are they likely to bring it back anytime soon? Cheers, Joe
  21. Been looking for a build of this. Seen too many whingers online complaining that "it's all fictional", nice for the Ukrainians to see some support.
  22. I think we're at the point now where I can start painting the thing, but before that I added the last landing gear strut. For some reason I had never got round to attaching this one until now. The leg didn't fit 100% correctly, I suspect as it's attaching to the CMK set and not the original Airfix part. I had to cut around 3mm from the single strut and angle it for a flush connection with the gear leg. Gave it a decent application of Ultra Glue so hopefully it won't be going anywhere. As I mentioned previously I've been looking at producing some form of mask for the inside of the canopies. With the centre canopy I was just able to reuse the external masks, albeit with a bit of trimming where needed. For the front and rear ones, I had to use something else, as the masks on the front need to remain until it's finished, and I had already thrown away the used ones for the rear set. Overall however I was able to make some more using the leftover backing sheet as a negative. The black marks are just from the pen to mark out the mask. The interior of the canopies was then sprayed with P3 Frostbite. It's not the most accurate shade based on real-life examples but it's the best commercially-available paint that matches the Eduard cockpit upgrades. Cheers, Joe
  23. After all the hassle I had with the CMK doors I'm just glad they're attached, not fussed if they're not 100% correct.
  • Create New...