Mottlemaster Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 (edited) Got this one as soon as it cameout back in 2012 . As the new Zoukei Mura 129 is or has just hit the shelves it seems a now or never time to get this one stuck to gether . P1020918 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr I hope someone does the Zoukei Mura 129 kit here on the G/B so a build comparison can be made as the kits probably are worlds apart . The instructions are little more than a series of notes which i suspect were made in 5 minutes as an after thought . P1020919 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020920 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr that is it for the instructions Apart from that im looking forward to getting started . Cheers Alistair Edited May 27, 2019 by Mottlemaster 15 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GREG DESTEC Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Wow!😯 I never knew there were 1/32 examples of this aircraft. I was gonna do the 1/48 Hasesgawa kit.. I'll be looking out for your updates on this one. Cheers Greg 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 welcome along Alistair, what an awesome model, I'm soooo jealous!!! I've heard of this model but never seen one built up. Instructions like that are quite familiar to me, as long as you have some good reference stuff then assembly shall be fine. It should turn out to be a lovely model. I'm half tempted to buy the new ZM version when it's released but have sort of blown my budget (ha as if I had one! ) on a few rather large items of late! (another 1/32 resin Typhoon, 1/35th Mi-24V, MH-6J Little Bird, M1 Breacher, Panzerhaubitze 2000). I'm really looking forward to following this build , good luck with her. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 "Some skill required" by the looks of it... Good luck! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 trust me, there's some plastic stuff out here that'll make this look like a "snap-tight" model!! This reminds me I really must get another "Non-injection Moulded GB" in the proposal list! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 5 hours ago, trickyrich said: trust me, there's some plastic stuff out here that'll make this look like a "snap-tight" model!! This reminds me I really must get another "Non-injection Moulded GB" in the proposal list! Agree Rich ,If you need a co host i would be happy to oblige . Here are two links to builds of this kit i have found ... both are superb and im dreaming if i think i could do half as well . https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/36432-henschel-hs-129b-2-done-now-with-more-pics/ http://bowemodels.blogspot.com/2013/04/build-review-grey-matter-figures-132.html These builds will be invaluble and thank goodness the curse of photobucket hasnt removedd the pictures . Wings to fuselage joint looks fun 😨 Alistair 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 thanks, I've found both those builds, gee she does look rather nice when done. I had been contemplating whether to get one of these or the ZM version, watching your build may give me the push. Glad to have you along as a Co-Host, @Col. and I will need all the help we can get, as this looks to be a big GB! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 12, 2019 Author Share Posted March 12, 2019 A small update on the instructions ...found these P1020922 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020921 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr Tempted to go with scheme E from Libya 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 On 10/03/2019 at 13:50, Mottlemaster said: The instructions are little more than a series of notes which i suspect were made in 5 minutes as an after thought . And we complain about some modern kit instructions, good lord, research dead ahead, I'm looking forward to this 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 the wiggly D scheme looks great and probably doable in that scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 On 13/03/2019 at 03:01, trickyrich said: the wiggly D scheme looks great and probably doable in that scale. I agree Rich . There are not many opportuinities to do a sand squiggle . Have done a few with mixed results ,though not in 1/32 . What im going to do is put off my decision untill the end ( may need to ask for an extension to article 50 😵) Lucky there is no need to make any construction changes for either scheme apart from radio mast on E Cheers Alistair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 Itching to get started i have assembled the resin parts for the cockpit as best i can .The two builds i have found made this an easier task than usseing kit instructions . P1020942 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr The moulding is very good useing good quality resin that is not brittle . Very little cleaning off to do . No air bubbles in any of these parts , Looking at the two builds i am useing as a refrance there seems to be some variation in construction . P1020927 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr A set of R.B productions seatbelts is supplied along with some etch rudder pedals. I was lucky a few years back to get a cheap copy of Martin Peggs Classic Publications book (without a cover) if any one has the cover without the book let me know P1020943 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr This has some superb colour plates of all the schemes in the instructions though.very few cockpit pics .. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 haha I know the feeling, to help resist the urge I've just been washing all the resiny bits and removing resin plugs. I have the same book, a definite must for you build plus I have a couple of Polish publications on it as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 Now its a first foot over the start line .. Feels good . A few loose ends to post first the decals P1020923 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr Printed by Fantiasy Printshop . Look to be good quality all in register . Now thw kit parts P1020924 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020925 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020926 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr Lots of intresting plastic bags ,i mean plastic bags fall of intresting contents P1020927 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr Have made a start with the rudder pedals . Each one made of 3 parts P1020944 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020945 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr The RB set has e diferent types of peddal but the Martin Pegg clearly shows the frudder peddal. Next step ...the cockpit .. this might take some time . 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 I can say no more...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 9 hours ago, trickyrich said: I can say no more...... I think Rich that after looking at your previous build history ,that this kit would be satisfying to all those parts that a challenging kit can reach Tha main parts to the cockpit have now been assembled . Now im not 100% sure it has been done corectly but it matches the two builds im useing as a guide as far as i can see . The back armour plates position is not clear and my first attempt positiond the top of the armour up higher . P1020948 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr The red arrows show it sitting on top of the two lugs at back of cockpit floor. P1020950 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020946 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020952 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr This picture shows the revised position which makes more sence as its more secure and the pipe on the rear right of the armour is removed to alowe a flush fit The down side is that it makes the line up of the seat belts which thred through the back of seat and attatch to armourfar more out of line . To make seat belt threding easier later on i have opend out gaps in seat (red arrows) Blue arrow new armour fixing point completed cockpit in place with some blue tack to see if its got any chance of fitting later on P1020951 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr Details applied to side walls P1020954 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr not sure if this is casting block or not (red arrow) P1020955 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr do not cut this part (red arrow) part at end of tube as its not casting block as picture in refrance book shos it clearly ..cut the other side off thinking it was casting block then couldnt find it to glue back on Considering everything im very pleased with how the cockpit has turned out . There is no way i could have got this far without the two builds im following acting as pathfinders ... Thank you both if you ever read this 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyrie Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 Great detail, great start, certainly looks like a project this one 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 arrr this brings back memories of various other resin builds....and a few plastic ones! That armoured plate does look better in its lower position. I found this in some of my books, it may be of help to you. The seat really sits very forward but it really give you an idea of how the seat belts align with the seat and rear armour plate. A slightly better view of the rear of the seat and seat belt arrangement, again the normal seat position is very forward, plus what look to be like two wires on the top part that do.....something??? 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 18, 2019 Author Share Posted March 18, 2019 Many thanks for your pictures Rich . they are of great help . The kits desighn doesnot alowe the pilots seat to sit that far forward without some major sergery to parts which is far to far offpiste for me on a kit like this . I might be able to get 2mm further forward with some sanding of front bulkhead . I guess that the armour would be hinged backwards for pilots entry and exit but while in forward position the pilot was traped in his aircraft or atleast couldnot have a rappid exit in emergency. Cheers Alistair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silenoz Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 interested in this one... cockpit looks very nice already. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 no worries, I bet there were a few broken noses on the windshield, I doubt that padding would have done that much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 The first paint applied Some RLM 66 P1020987 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr Will get the RB belts made up now 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 (edited) Before i got to far ahead with the easier bits i decided i had to take the plunge and see if i could start to sort out one of the two known problem aras of this kit and that is the fuselage . Iv had straighter bannanas , I presentedthe twohalfs together. P1020933 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020932 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020934 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr These are badly warped parts bing warped left and right nd up and down . There is no way they will come together to be joined with Super glue Did some reserch on removeing warps from resin and decided that drastic action was needed .Bring on the hotwater treatment. Borrowd a large flat metal tray so the parts could lay flat and filled with near boiling water. P1020936 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020935 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr The idea being that when heated to a certainee point the parts would relax to their original shape in the mould . DISASTER . I think i handled the parts too early before they had fully cooled and the results were two fuselage halfs that looked to be totaly twisted and useless . I didnt get any pictures of these as too depressing to think i had messed up a £100 kit . First thought to put everything in the bin and move on . second thought get incontact with greymatter and buy a new set of fusealge halfs third idea put bck in boiling water and try again ,this time leaving plenty of time to cooldown . Whent with choise 3 as nothing to loose and hey presto things vame back to being a little better than the parts i had first started with. That wa a good result . P1020937 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020938 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr This is now somewhat better than the starting point but still under a lot of tension ,makeing joining very difficult as superglue gives very little time to wriggle things about before setting . I will investigate some metal pins to help secure sides in correct position while glue sets. Used some brass tube set in holes drilled in sides . Only certain places were thick enough to do this but lucky that enough places were found to enable this to work (so far !!!) P1020991 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020990 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr Now together with just a small bit of tape P1020992 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr It may look as though the fuselage is still bowd but the join is but not ethe edge of the top . P1020992 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020993 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr I think that i can now work with this Edited March 21, 2019 by Mottlemaster 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Arrr banana's I've had more than my fair share of those! Yeah there is a trick to the hot water trick and sometimes you need to watch the temperature of the water too, to hot can have quite adverse effects! Depending on the size of the part I'll either cool it straight away or just let in cool slowly. Sometimes big thick parts (my 1/32 Typhoon wing) can take multiple and long soaks in boiling water to straighten. But generally resin will almost always return to its original shape if placed in hot-boiling water. Clever idea with those little bits of tube. There is another easier way to help align resin bits when gluing, use small taps. What I do is cut up lots of small tabs from a length of same rectangular or square plastic rod then just stick them around the edges of the parts I'm gluing. This gives me a really quick way of aligning things when using CA cement. I'll be using this method on the Skyknight. But you've got there, with add stress aside. That gap should allow you to run bead of thin CA glue along the seem quite easily. If you're worried about the CA glue then you can use 5 minute epoxy, just lots messier. Actually resin is much more forgiving than most people think, you can get away with things with it that would destroy plastic parts. Just wait for the next fun job....the wings! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 6 minutes ago, trickyrich said: Arrr banana's I've had more than my fair share of those! Yeah there is a trick to the hot water trick and sometimes you need to watch the temperature of the water too, to hot can have quite adverse effects! Depending on the size of the part I'll either cool it straight away or just let in cool slowly. Sometimes big thick parts (my 1/32 Typhoon wing) can take multiple and long soaks in boiling water to straighten. But generally resin will almost always return to its original shape if placed in hot-boiling water. Clever idea with those little bits of tube. There is another easier way to help align resin bits when gluing, use small taps. What I do is cut up lots of small tabs from a length of same rectangular or square plastic rod then just stick them around the edges of the parts I'm gluing. This gives me a really quick way of aligning things when using CA cement. I'll be using this method on the Skyknight. But you've got there, with add stress aside. That gap should allow you to run bead of thin CA glue along the seem quite easily. If you're worried about the CA glue then you can use 5 minute epoxy, just lots messier. Actually resin is much more forgiving than most people think, you can get away with things with it that would destroy plastic parts. Just wait for the next fun job....the wings! HI Rich Thought about tabs as iv used them before but due to the uneveness of the inside there were no places that tabs would have kept the outside surface in position . Yep the wings look to have no relavance to the fuselage . Looks like it can be achieved so i live in hope .... to be honest i like sorting problems out like this as there is normally a solution its just finding it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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