Col. Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Well this has been a rollercoaster of a thread so far. Started off looking at those 'instruction' sketches and feared the worst for you, although the painting diagrams are lovely, then looking at your work with the rudder pedals and cockpit parts made me think this was going to be a thing of beauty, until seeing those fuselage halves! You look to have tamed them into submission though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 On 22/03/2019 at 16:55, Col. said: Well this has been a rollercoaster of a thread so far. Started off looking at those 'instruction' sketches and feared the worst for you, although the painting diagrams are lovely, then looking at your work with the rudder pedals and cockpit parts made me think this was going to be a thing of beauty, until seeing those fuselage halves! You look to have tamed them into submission though. Thanks Col. yes the battle of the fuselage halves has been won (i think) but the war is far from over . Next is the battle of the wings Ihave now got the fuselage halves together one last pic of cockpit and armour hinge assemly in place ...hope this helps any one in the future travelling this bumpy road , P1020994 - Copy by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020995 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr had to do some sanding back of front bulkhead ,instrument panel and inside of fuselage half to get sides to meet . Bought some Zap-A-Cap gapfilling super glue at last weekends show in yeovil . Let me tell everyone it was needed . P1020997 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020998 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1020999 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr Have some serious sanding to do now and yards of re-scribing also one big thumb print to sand off where i glued my self to the kit .For 5 mins we were as one !!!! 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Ouch! Glad to hear you fought free and the rollercoaster continues. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Your cockpit looks spot on Alistair, quality job there 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 That look great, well done with the cockpit. Gap filling Super Glue....or any Super Glue is mans best friend with resin. I've lost count of the number of times I've glue myself to a model with the stuff. The worse is when you glue a small part on, then go check on it a little later and find it's gone and after a little searching finds it now attached to your had/arm or onsite bit of clothing!! Else you apply some glue then proceed to drop it on the bench/ground! God I love building resin models! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 On 25/03/2019 at 21:18, trickyrich said: Gap filling Super Glue....or any Super Glue is mans best friend with resin. I've lost count of the number of times I've glue myself to a model with the stuff. The worse is when you glue a small part on, then go check on it a little later and find it's gone and after a little searching finds it now attached to your had/arm or onsite bit of clothing!! Else you apply some glue then proceed to drop it on the bench/ground! Useing Super glue certainly keeps the mind focust as i find the precise positioning of parts and holding them there in that position until the glue grabs the most nervracking part .How many times i have sanded ,marked and done 10 or more dry fit tests to get a perfect fit to only position the part slightly wrong with the glue grabbing before it could be adjusted 🙁 Some more progress . Join now sanded and most panel lines re scribed P1030003 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr tail pins made os copper tube P1030002 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030001 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030004 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr Mk 103 cannon pod placed in position . Will open spent cartridge port . P1030005 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030006 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030007 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr Fuselage is almost complete . Hope to do this by the end of today Thanks for looking Alistair 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 looking good....I know just how much work is involved to get to this stage and you are doing great, well done so far. Those little bits a detail are a bit easier to do in this scale, looking forward to seeing her with the wings on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted April 4, 2019 Author Share Posted April 4, 2019 I have been waiting for some bits to arive to help with wings . now the brass tube and more epoxy glue is here so no excuse to hold back. Some pics of where im upto P1030014 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr Gun pod in position have used some copper tube for upper 20mm canon and lower 7.92mm machine gun P1030013 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030012 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr the inside of the wings seem to have had resin applied by spatula applied to strengthen them .,neadless to say this hand applied resin is a PITA as loads needs to be sanded away P1030011 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr This area needs to be removed so that the wheel well has some chance of fitting P1030010 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030009 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030008 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030008 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030018 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr I have used the Gorilla 5min epoxy in the twin syringe before and its fantastic ,easy to get two eual amounts and i wasted notheing from either tube , tube now cut and running through fuselage but not glurd yet P1030019 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr There is minimal contact area between top and bottom wing section and fuselage so all this reinforcement is needed . going to try and set up jig to get dihedral and keep things in position until glue dries. So this weekend is wing weekend 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted April 4, 2019 Share Posted April 4, 2019 great work there Alistair. That extra resin is a common feature on Collect-Aire models, seems to be done later. Industrial grade brass fittings, perfect for a beast like this. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted April 6, 2019 Author Share Posted April 6, 2019 On 04/04/2019 at 22:55, trickyrich said: Industrial grade brass fittings, perfect for a beast like this. Yes Rich always need a good stocl of brass tube to keep the bits together Those wing joints are going to be under stress for years ......i hope The upper wing sections are now attached . I am pleased with the result and i have not boxed myself in with the attachment of lower parts as far as i can see now . The lower parts are going to take a lot of shims and filler to get looking good but i wanted any major sanding to take place underside and front edge . The plastic card jigs to get correct wing dihedral are now glued to wing . P1030025 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030023 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030021 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr P1030020 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr None of the buildsi have found show how wings were attached so if this works anyone who comes along in the years to come here are some and Good luck. Now to get the lower sections on 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyrie Posted April 6, 2019 Share Posted April 6, 2019 Good work, what make is your RLM 66 please? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted April 6, 2019 Share Posted April 6, 2019 nice work with the jigs, I had to do sometime similar with my X-15. It's amazing the tricks you pickup building models like this, something you'd never learn on plastic models. Awesome work! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 (edited) Crikey Alistair your doing a sterling job, but it does look a bit of a trial, your mojo levels must be off the richter scale to maintain impetus, Edited April 7, 2019 by Hewy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted April 7, 2019 Author Share Posted April 7, 2019 On 06/04/2019 at 13:18, Valkyrie said: Good work, what make is your RLM 66 please? Thanks Valkyrie . Infact iv used two types of RLM 66 Mr color 116 for most cockpit parts and a tamiya TS-4 german Grey for rear armor as i forgot to paint it earlier and coulnt be botherd to get the airbrush going . I have quite a few interior parts from Luftwaffe aircraft and the RLM grey does very a little some much darker than others . Cheers Alistair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spad Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 Just caught up with this one and I salute your skills, determination and bravery. Interesting to see the size of the beast alongside what I take to be the Tamiya Storch! Mojo preserver or practice piece for the desert squiggly pattern? ATB Rick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 11 hours ago, Hewy said: Crikey Alistair your doing a sterling job, but it does look a bit of a trial, your mojo levels must be off the richter scale to maintain impetus, Thanks Hewy . Im determind that this one wont end up not finished . Now the wings are on i feel that i have done the worst parts . For mojo killing kit i would still put the Eduard 1/48 Bf 110 at the top of my list 8 hours ago, Spad said: Just caught up with this one and I salute your skills, determination and bravery. Interesting to see the size of the beast alongside what I take to be the Tamiya Storch! Mojo preserver or practice piece for the desert squiggly pattern? ATB Rick Thank you Rick . For a twin engine its small ,notmuch larger than a Me 109 . The contrast between this kit and the Tamiya could not be greater nor the desighn of the actual aircraft . Going to do some practice squigges on plastic card before i move on to the Storch . Changing from one kit to the other requires huge change in approach .Everything with the storch is fine and delecate ,only the finest swipe with fin sanding stick . Cheers Alistair 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 23 hours ago, Mottlemaster said: ...Now the wings are on i feel that i have done the worst parts... I hope so! Great results so far Alistair and your work will make for an impressive model in the end. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted April 10, 2019 Author Share Posted April 10, 2019 The lower wing parts are now attached . It took the whole weekend of tweeking and countless dryfits . I am very pleased with the result as when i first started to realize the mismatch between wings and fuselage i thought this area might be where i ran aground . first pic shows top joint P1030037 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr front shims sandd down P1030036 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr bottom wing joint . The wheel bays are just reting on the wing ,not in position P1030034 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr The next problem to sortout is the gap between the wheelbay and under wing . One wheel bay is 3mm shorter than the other laeving a difficult void to fill . P1030033 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silenoz Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 Nice work, and a nice reference for future builders too... Is it possible to determine the difference between the wheelbays and with some creative cutting and sanding making the two parts equal before attempting to fill the void? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 the wing joins look good, and the front shims a clever idea. For the nacelle gap I'd try build up that section on the nacelle using some scrap resin, then shape to suit nacelle. Once that's done start to profile to suit the wing. Using CA cement will make this process nice a quick plus you won't have to worry about filler shrinkage and the additional mess. Should be a fairly simple quick fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stalker6Recon Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 On 3/15/2019 at 3:30 AM, Mottlemaster said: Itching to get started i have assembled the resin parts Hello, I am relatively new here and struggling to find any info/details about how to remove resin parts from their resin base, and some searches using different terms has drawn a blank on all the forums I am a member of. What I have found, is about full resin kits, something called gundum or war blah-blah or other, which really does not apply to 48 scale pitot tubes. Anyway, can you give me a quick breakdown of what tools I should use to remove the casting block from the parts. I have also a nice set of resin nozzles for my F-18F, but I am terrified of destroying them just trying to get them free from the base. I have tiny saws/scribers from tamiya, but that does not inspire much confidence as well. I would put them on my Dewalt miter saw, but I like my fingers. A coping saw also seemed an options, but I would rather know the "right tool" and the "right way". Thanks, and sorry to interject, Anthony stalker6recon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 2 hours ago, Stalker6Recon said: Hello, I am relatively new here and struggling to find any info/details about how to remove resin parts from their resin base, and some searches using different terms has drawn a blank on all the forums I am a member of. What I have found, is about full resin kits, something called gundum or war blah-blah or other, which really does not apply to 48 scale pitot tubes. Anyway, can you give me a quick breakdown of what tools I should use to remove the casting block from the parts. I have also a nice set of resin nozzles for my F-18F, but I am terrified of destroying them just trying to get them free from the base. I have tiny saws/scribers from tamiya, but that does not inspire much confidence as well. I would put them on my Dewalt miter saw, but I like my fingers. A coping saw also seemed an options, but I would rather know the "right tool" and the "right way". Thanks, and sorry to interject, Anthony stalker6recon Hi Anthony, welcome along. You've sort to come to the right spot a few of us here build a few resin models......me I sort live in an environment of perpetual resin dust !! Unfortunately bedtime in my part of the world but I will post you some info tomorrow, best to say for me a Dremel Micro is my fav toy for resin models. I've got about 8 (or more, lost count) builds scattered around the GB section past and present. If you want, feel free to PM me if you don't want to ask questions in a thread, I'm full of useful and not so useful info on resin models, 1/48th and 1/32nd flying things are my specialty but I do build other things as well. In the meantime have a wee look through the threads in this GB I ran a few years back, there's some really good stuff in there; https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/517-non-injected-moulded-group-build/ ...and this one one of my last builds, there maybe some stuff of interest in there; opps sorry to hijack your thread Alistair! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stalker6Recon Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 56 minutes ago, trickyrich said: opps sorry to hijack your thread Alistair! Repeat, I will follow up via PM. Feel free to delete the unrelated bits, if that is an option, my feelings won't be hurt. Also, if you have some tips/tricks, I am all 👀 's, unless you want to audio stream something, then I am all 👂' s..... Thanks, Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silenoz Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 As a quick guide: For the large chunks: Excell block-saw And pure gold for the finer stuff: JLC saw and further some sanding paper (preferably waterproof) and sanding sticks... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted April 10, 2019 Author Share Posted April 10, 2019 1 hour ago, Silenoz said: and further some sanding paper (preferably waterproof) and sanding sticks... When useing sand paper use in a large tray of water to keep dust down and your paper free of dust . I use a combination of saw for 95% of casting block and sand paper to remove last 5% For small parts made of soft resin a scalpel is all that is needed When sanding keep an eye on final point of casting block and alter direction to reduce uneven sanding bias . cheers Alistair 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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