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Christer A

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Everything posted by Christer A

  1. That looks ace! You really nailed that tricky boom installation of the J21R. It's anything but easy.
  2. Dang it! I was going to join this one, but since the house isn't finished yet the stash is in deep storage and can't be plundered so easily. I'll probably need the rest of the autumn before I can have a permanent modelling den... And I as soo looking forward to that nice looking Venezuela Viper....
  3. You did an excellent job on a surprisingly nice little kit!
  4. Got this one i my stash, but I'll stick to the normal blue/blue colors thank you! Have fun, even though I can't see any resin?
  5. Luck indeed! When are you starting it? I'm quite sure that something close to happiness can be found i CA kits
  6. That looks very nice Werner! Interesting kit as well.
  7. I'm just guessing here but it seems that you have some issues with nasty resin-ney bits Thanks for the cheer though!
  8. So far I've managed to resist opening up the big box o' Shack, but if I wasn't going to pack everything away for a few months at the end pf the summer due to the new house, who knows what could've happened? What did happen was a small Hawkeye though... But it is resting on the Gannet box, so all is well... Actually, I've been doing some stuff on the big bent-winged bird too! I've wrestled with the weapon bay sides, not an easy win. First, this is how it looks They are supposed to go in after the bay has clipped into it's proper position claims the Alley Cat instructions. It would've been helpful if they also included some pictures showing how it should look in a cleaned up state, but that is not the case. The way I see it something isn't right here, which is quite obvious when dry-fitting the doors. First, the doors are going on top of the front and rear bulkheads of the bay. I've spent a lot of time sanding them down to match the fuselage, but it seems that they should be a bit lower still! Probably the entire bay rides too low in the fuselage? It's too late to do anything about that in either case, so I'll cheat for a bit and shorten the doors instead, while whistling innocently. Second, the sidewalls that goes in from the top are very T-shaped the the top bar of the T is resting on the fuselage side. When the door is mated to the top here, the little square peg is almost completely hidden. That does not look right. I had made a cut out for it like this But that was still too high. Nothing to to but to carve off the outer piece then and make it into an upside down L instead. That works a bit better! Except at the rear: The side ribs aren't matching anything in the bay roof! They should either go into the slots, or in between but as they are right now it looks crazy. But I think I could chop them off and replace with some suitable bits of Evergreen plastic. Throwing all caution to the wind, I went ahead and secured the side pieces with some CA: That could work...
  9. Well, the summer slowdown is in full effect...but I have managed to acquire a brass pitot-tube. Compared to what Revell would like me to use, this is a great improvement. It's not exactly a drop fit, since the nose needs to be sanded a bit to make it fit, but I'll take that. I also opened the auxiliary intakes under the engines, and the one on the front. A simple but oh so effective change. The tail was also attached, so now it seems that I really need to prepare for Primer!
  10. That's a bunch of nice pictures of the AEW Shack! One could almost believe that you're actively trying to lure me to start yet another kit... But I shall resist the siren song! I'm strong-willed and dedicated. Oh yes.
  11. Thanks! I'm having fun with beating this kit into submission. Let's just hope that I am able to speed up a bit, since during the summer vacation I'm supposed to splash some paint on this And of course, during the autumn it will be finishing the interior and move house! Thanks Steve! A Dakota as a classroom? Well, it must've been roomier than either Gannet or Sea Venom at least Thanks Chris! That Shack looks absolutely stunning in bare plastic. I can barely constrain myself from starting it... Thanks! There are a couple of spare sets available if needed....
  12. Gosh! This looks very promising and I hope that you'll get the books soon! Speaking of that, which books are you waiting for? I might have to get some for my future Whirlwinds as well...
  13. Yeah, those Uschi template thingies are perfect for giving an uneven finish. Takes a bit of practice I've noticed. I must say that you have a very very nice looking P-38 there Crisp!
  14. That looks like an excellent kit! You did great work on it too For spraying yellow, I always undercoat with pink which gives a nice warm yellow tone.
  15. It seems that my Gannet has stood down a bit due to that Voodoo and the completed painting of the Tonka. Well, since I scored some Revell goodies recently and a whole bunch of Eduard stuff to go with them I need to stop fidgeting and get going with the Gannet! I'm very distracted by new shiny things... That Shack looks amazing in bare plastic though! It'll be a tough fight to put it back in the box, where it belongs... But back to the Gannet. Even if it looks like it, the fuselage halves have not been joined together yet. The weapons bay is really making a mess of things, especially at the rear. The instructions for them states that they have a different shape than the plastic since it needs to be a bit more square. Well, I can force one side to the correct position but not both at the same time. Out with some sprue bits to help out then. Then I started to cement the fuselage, focusing on one stretch at a time. It does work, but it's very easy to forget to apply TETC evenly so some re-gluing will be needed. The fit isn't stellar, but brute force solves most of it, but not all. It looks like I didn't manage to close everything properly here, but I blame the weapons bay! As clearly can be seen, one shall not dribble the white bottle Tamiya cement on the fuselage sides... I resisted the urge to wipe it off, and hopefully it will have evaporated with no ill effects.. And pigs will fly too! How does the nose look? Most builds I've seen have had to pack out the nose ring some mm or so, and I expect to do the same. Not an exaggeration to say that it was a but dreadful to approach this area. What's this? It actually fits? (*) Did I do something wrong, or did the Hannants re-issue actually change the molds ? Well, no matter the reason this looks be good enough for me. Also started to work on the stabilizers. One side had both a nice little sink mark and some suspicious mold damage, but the other one was fine. They probably needs some kind of reinforcement pin to secure it towards the fin though. I also managed to find some nice masks and a bunch of beautiful resin wheels in some of all shopping sprees that has happened. (*) Fit as in normal Classic Airframes fashion
  16. Very interesting shots of the Genies! It seems that the center body was painted in many different colors. So far I've seen white, grey, red and bright blue. Well, here is a tiny update of the model itself: Top wings are on, and so are the major components. The season of filler is upon me, which always is a good milestone. I probably could've pushed the cockpit a bit further upwards, but some PPP will hide the worst gaps, and once the canopy is in place I'm sure it will be all right. The largest issue are the intakes however. One have to fill and sand them a bit, paint, discover some new poor area, and fill and sand some more. Luckily the rest of the seams looks to be ok. Once I get to the primer stage, I'm sure something else will pop up.
  17. This weekend as a 4 day bank holiday thanks to Ascension Thursday and some well spent vacation day. What better way to spend it than with AK interactive paint masks and a Tonka? This spatter stencil was bought at a whim some time ago so lets use it. It could be used to lay down some spatter on top of a black base and that would work wonders, I think. What I did was to do an initial coat of the correct paint (in this instance the RealColor FS34079 Dark green, for the first part of the Norm-83 camo) Then I follow it up with a lightened version of this color , apply the mask and spatter away. Lastly, a very thin coat of the proper shade is built up on top to give the spatter some chance to peak through. When it work, it does give an interesting depth to the color. After the first dark green, it was followed up with RealColors RAL 6003 Olivegr√ľn and RAL 712 Basalt Grau. Painting a bit, apply stencil, paint again and then allow sufficient time for the pain to cure sufficiently to withstand a new round of masking worked wonders with this paint. I feel that Gunze and Tamiya takes a little longer to cure than what RC does. Finally the entire Tonka was painted, and at that time it was all covered up in tape, to allow the airbrake bays and the tailfin, sweep surfaces and so on to receive the light gray. Thos egray areas are not in RAL but FS36173 instead for which I had to resort to an old bottle of Xtracrylix. Well, it still worked! That was quite the chore let me tell you, but how does it all look underneath? No overspray and just a small small spot where the paint lifted. Almost too good to be true! Time to do a clearcoat or five and continue to paint some metallic areas.
  18. Dang it! Thanks for the info though. An F-101 without the Genie looks a bit boring, and the fit of the revolving "door" is quite bad, no matter which side is up. Perhaps one could pose it as an airshow exhibit, with inert rounds?
  19. It's good to have you along @baldwin8! The office has now been painted, clearcoated and dirtied up. It lacks a flat coat but that'll have to wait until after it's installed properly in the fuselage. Said process was not trouble free though! Not only was it supposed to be slid in place from underneath according to Revell, it must also rest on top of the nose gear bay. This is a tricky job in the best of times, but adding resin to it is probably pushing it a bit to far. The result was off course no go, and both instrument panels was broken off and the rudder pedals pinged off into oblivion. Bugger! What did I do wrong? Well, when comparing the Revell 'pit to Pavla it seems that I forgot to shorten it enough. Pavla is a good 2-3 mm longer which makes it land on the raised part of the nose gear bay, pushing the entire installation far too upwards. Also add that I didn't thin the floor enough and it's no wonder that failure was the only outcome. Ok, let's do this properly then! Out with the motor tool to thin away the flor, saw off the offending front part, repaint the floor, make up some rudder pedals from plastic sheet and try again. Still, there was some bulkheads in the fuselage to wrestle with, so off with those as well. That did it! Just need to add the cover for the instrument panel and fair in the rear part and it's done. Whew! I also took the opportunity to sand off the overscale slime lights. That's it, now it's time to focus on getting the wings in place, intakes and other little things...
  20. It seems that I've forgotten to update this little thread for quite some time. Ooops! Well, the build is not dead, far from it, but progress thanks to work/life balance is quite slow. All the added pressure of having a house built is also taking it's toll. Sadly, that means that the evenings are spent in front of the telly, in the gym or blasting demons to gibs in Doom Eternal. But enough about the whining, let's get on to more important bit: Off course, it needs detail painting and that stuff, but that'll come. Exhausts, or rather the entire afterburner section of the engine was painted as well. This needs a lot more shades to look like the real thing. The wheel bays got their coat of interior green, and the flap bay some red. It looks very colorful now. Very fancy. The kit itself has one of those bad ideas in aircraft modelling. Why must the nose gear be installed before installing it in the fuselage? It will surely break of sooner or later. Also, the gear covers are integrated in the nose gear walls, so I don't have to worry about them coming loose. I did forget to install the thing before gluing the fuselage together, but it was possible to split it open and force it into place later. This will probably also be a tricky masking job... Those intakes are another challange. Ejector pin marks in the lip area, slightly "interesting" fit and guide vanes that are 10 times the scale thickness, and also noticeably wedge-shaped instead of looking like a normal piece of sheet metal. Then one have to add the splitter plates in front and get a good fit all over. We'll see how it goes. Main goal is to have the wing roots gap free though, so that's what I'll focus on. It could work. With force. Lots of it!
  21. Tagging along for the ride. I'm trying to find the F4-EJ Kai 8 Sqn boxing, with the blue on blue camouflage but it seems to be impossible to find somewhere? While waiting for that to clear I'll settle for this, which will help a LOT!
  22. Thats a very nice paint job. Great work! The plastic itself looks very nice too,
  23. Another 4 week of procrastrinations.... But I have finally installed the HUD, masked up the canopy and run the primer/fill/sand-loop more than a few times. So there! Today I also managed to lay down the first coat of paint. Not Mission Models, but Real Colors instead. It performs like a charm with some Gunze self levelling thinner. The smell is not so bad either, actually a lot less offensive than MrPaint. This now needs a little postshading to make it more visually appealing. In other news, the house project is clearly not run by me! By the end of February it looked like this: Two weeks later the foundation had been poured, and sufficiently hardened to start construction. Two weeks later still and the whole outside of the house was built! This was no pre-fab elements that came on a truck and was lifted into place, no, this was built by hand on site! Those guys were really quick! Off course, the inside is completely bare... However, now the tempo has fallen dramatically but the house is weather proof in all aspects, all scaffolds are gone, and soon they'll start on the interior. The concrete slab needs 6 months to cure fully, and until then it's really not recommended to put the final floor in. Oh well. This gives me more time to start another kit, finish a Tonka!
  24. Nothing beats having "fun" with a CA kit... That nose gear leg is pure master class!
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