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AnonymousDFB1

Harrier II Single Type Group Build

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I think a 1 Sqn GR5 carried out the first live firing of a Sidewinder AIM9-L by a GR5.

Mark.

Well done Mark, I was going to say not much, as the GR5s weren't around very long, before upgrade to GR7. I'd also forgotten the front nose wheel bays.

Keep signing up Harrier fans, everyone's welcome!

Phil

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Neu,

The Hasegawa Harriers are very nice AV-8B's but require some work to add the lumps and bumps of the RAF Harrier GR5/7/9's. Your best bet is to get hold of the Aeroguide on the Harrier GR5/7, it is a very good reference with plenty of pics. The Quickboost nose is very good and does make a difference to the overall look, and as Phil has mentioned, the airbrake is also an essential purchase. Forget the Eduard set for the GR5 as it doesn't have the right cockpit details for a GR5, it has the 2 MFDs of the GR7 and is also discontinued by Eduard anyway. An option to consider would be the set for the Revell/Hasegawa GR7/9 with some modification to the instrument panel to backdate it to a GR5.The Pavla MB Mk12 seat is a very nicely priced seat and will instantly make a difference to the kit cockpit. Another item to consider is the Aires wheel wells as most Harriers have the nose wheel doors open when parked up but Hasegawa have moulded both sets closed. Aires have also just released some resin wheels with masks for the Hasegawa Harriers which look quite nice. In short, if want a really accurate Harrier GR5 from the Hasegawa kit, be prepared to put in some work and spend some money!

Mark.

Thanks Mark. In general, I'm willing to spend some money... most of the parts I'll get from Artur models in CZ and they are pretty reasonable.These are the ones I can find...

Aries Exhaust set

Pavla GR9 cockpit

QB AV8 air brake set

Is this the front wheel bay set?

http://www.arturmodel.cz/172-av-8b-harrier-wheel-bay-hsg/d-240284/

Unfortunately since I live across the ocean getting the aeroguide book will be a challenge and I might forgo it and try to cobble something together from internet sources. Are there a lot of bumps to install?

Finally, is the BL775 a legitimate armament for this aircraft?

(sorry for all the questions... just wanted to get my ducks in a row for this).

Edited by -Neu-

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Thanks Mark. In general, I'm willing to spend some money... most of the parts I'll get from Artur models in CZ and they are pretty reasonable.These are the ones I can find...

Aries Exhaust set

Pavla GR9 cockpit

QB AV8 air brake set

Is this the front wheel bay set?

http://www.arturmodel.cz/172-av-8b-harrier-wheel-bay-hsg/d-240284/

Unfortunately since I live across the ocean getting the aeroguide book will be a challenge and I might forgo it and try to cobble something together from internet sources. Are there a lot of bumps to install?

Finally, is the BL775 a legitimate armament for this aircraft?

(sorry for all the questions... just wanted to get my ducks in a row for this).

That looks like the one, as for BL755 they're right for the era but I'm not sure the GR5 ever used them. I've seen pictures of them with SNEBs and 1000lb bombs, someone is bound to come along with a snap of one with 755s on now..

Ask away, that's what the threads for!

Edited by SaintsPhil

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Neu,

Yes, that's the wheel bay set. The Pavla GR9 cockpit set is for the Airfix kit which is designed differently to the Hasegawa kit, so you will probably find some fit issues if you try to use it. The BL755 could be used by the GR5, but I've only ever seen it on weapons trials or the inert ones used for PR photos. As for lumps and bumps, pay attention to the wing tips and the ventral fin as well as the tail boom. If you can't purchase Aeroguide 26, then have a look around on the internet, I'm sure you'll find something to help out. There are some good walkrounds to be found and the Harrier SIG website is most helpful!

Mark.

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Phil,

Add me in, as I said last time, it'll be nice to build a Harrier again :P

As I mentioned in the other thread, I shall be building P.1127(RAF) XV276 in natural metal using the new Airfix GR1 kit.

Enzo - I'm looking forward to seeing that, as I've been thinking of doing the same to a 1/48th scale Airfix GR.3

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Phil,

Add me in, as I said last time, it'll be nice to build a Harrier again :P

Enzo - I'm looking forward to seeing that, as I've been thinking of doing the same to a 1/48th scale Airfix GR.3

You must be ready for something different Graham....what you planning?

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Home made markings, or are they available?

They're supplied with the kit. USMC & Spanish. :)

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You must be ready for something different Graham....what you planning?

Phil,

I've yet to get bored of Harriers ... and got a few to go. By "what you planning?", I assume you mean for this build ... well, it depends how far I get in the current Harrier Project. If I finish by this GB, then I'll probably follow Enzo's lead and do a P1127(RAF) in 1/48th. Plenty of time to go yet before deciding. I have some two seaters to build, but not sure I want to do them in the full glow of BM experts!

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.... Another item to consider is the Aires wheel wells as most Harriers have the nose wheel doors open when parked up but Hasegawa have moulded both sets closed.

Mark.

I've been looking at Harrier pictures and this wheel door open/closed has me confused. I think it's this;

Main wheel doors: always closed except when cycling or opened for maintenance

Nose wheel doors: Harrier II open First generation closed

Airbrake: closed at first but slowly opens

Am I right or an idiot (possibly both) :fool:

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I've been looking at Harrier pictures and this wheel door open/closed has me confused. I think it's this;

Main wheel doors: always closed except when cycling or opened for maintenance

Nose wheel doors: Harrier II open First generation closed

Airbrake: closed at first but slowly opens

Am I right or an idiot (possibly both) :fool:

I think you're right about the main wheel bay doors being closed, but they do tend to droop open slightly I believe.

Nose wheel bay are normally open on all harriers on the ground. I seem to remember there's a lock that is accessed via the bay. I'm sure someone with hands on experience can comment more here.

Airbrake always open (well there's bound to be an exception) on the ground. Dropped as part of landing sequence I believe.

That's my understanding which is yet to be proved wrong!

Phil

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As I missed the first Harrier STGB, I'll be glad to take part in this one.

Not sure what I'll build, but will be one of these (all 1/72):

USMC AV-8C from the Esci kit

Spanish AV-8S from the Esci kit

RAF GR.3 from the italeri (ex Esci) kit

801 Sqn. FRS.1 in grey over White from the Italeri/Esci kit

FAA FA.2 from the Airfix kit, squadron TBD

RAF GR.5 from the Airfix old mould kit (likely a 3 Sqn Aircraft)

Afghanistan RAF GR.9 from the Airfix new mould kit

And I also have a couple of Matchbox Sea Harriers in the stash....

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I've been looking at Harrier pictures and this wheel door open/closed has me confused. I think it's this;

Main wheel doors: always closed except when cycling or opened for maintenance

Nose wheel doors: Harrier II open First generation closed

Airbrake: closed at first but slowly opens

Am I right or an idiot (possibly both) :fool:

The following applied to the first generation Harriers.

Main wheel doors. Cycled mechanically by the main gears and are closed when the jet is taxying. On shutdown they remain closed. The groundcrew can open them by reaching up at the back of the main gear leg and releasing a catch. The doors fall open under gravity and allow access to the main gear bay for maintenance activities. If needed they can be pushed closed again (but usually kicked by the plumbers). If your model depicts a jet on the deck, these doors can be open or closed - your choice.

Nose gear doors. Cycled hydraulically and again closed when the jet is taxying. On shutdown they remain closed. The groundcrew can open them for access by opening a small round panel near the nosegear bay and pulling a hydraulic switch. The doors then bang open under hydraulic pressure. They cannot then be closed until hydraulic function is applied either on engine startup or by using a hyd pressure rig. Re-positioning the switch and closing the door is part of the jockey's walk-round. If your moel depicts a jet which has only just shut down, the doors will be closed. If it has been shut down for more than a clouple of minutes these doors will almost certainly be open.

Airbrake. Closed when the gear is retracted. When the gear is down, the airbrake is slightly open. It does not droop as hydraulic pressure falls, otherwise it would end up touching the deck.

Likewise the flaps. They do not droop when the aircraft is shut down. The engine should always be shut down with the flaps raised, otherwise the hyd system will give an incorrect level reading. The linies then top the hyd level up, leaving the system overfull and causing the pipes to burst on engine startup. A jockey who leaves the flaps down on shutdown ends up buying beer for the linies. A jockey who does it three times ends up as squadron auth for a month. They soon learn not to do it...!

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Excellent information Chaps! Thank You! :thumbsup:

The air brake makes sense when I think about it DOH!

Squadron auth??? Wot's that then? Please? I feel the need to know and even PPrune doesn't enlighten me.

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Squadron auth??? Wot's that then? Please? I feel the need to know and even PPrune doesn't enlighten me.

Every mission requires two authorising officers. One to provide engineering authorisation and the other to provide operational authorisation. The eng auth was usually a Chief Tech whose only role was that of eng auth. The ops auth (usually just referred to as "the auth") was a pilot. He was responsible for ensuring that all NOTAMs and other warning had been posted, that the weather forcast was up to date and that mission flight plans had been completed and posted correctly. During the period of his duty, the auth did not fly and had to wear blues so jockeys always hated being the auth. It also meant that in the weeks surrounding their duty, they had to work hard to keep up their flying hours and therefore qualify for flying pay. A pilot who had to act as auth for a month lost his flying pay during that month and would have to requalify on the range. This was not cosidered to be a good thing.

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Aha! Now I understand!

I can quite see how that would be a less than desirable position :fraidnot:

Any how BOT I've found enough information to be confident of the YAV-8B being possible and, even better, there are decals :jump_fire: I'm going to learn from this:

http://www.zone-five.net/showthread.php?t=13199

Have Fun everyone!

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For those of you in the planning / yet to plan stage, you may find this guide useful ... Harrier SIG Kitography ... which I am in the process of updating ready for SMW 2013. It contains details of kits, decal sheets, resin, weapons et al that you may be able to find new and second-hand and covers all scales.

What a shameless plug :blush: ... I shall go and do my penance ... fitting the wings and LERX to a 1/48th scale Hasegawa AV-8B II NA.

Just to add to Enzo's excellent post on the doors - look at enough Harrier photos and you'll see all combinations, but front open, rear closed is by far the most common for a "dispersed" Harrier. Makes me wonder why the doors are shut for the Hasegawa 1/48th scale Harriers when the instructions offer no "flying" version and the intake doors are "at rest". Most models I've seen on here for these kits have the front doors up!

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For those of you in the planning / yet to plan stage, you may find this guide useful ... Harrier SIG Kitography ... which I am in the process of updating ready for SMW 2013. It contains details of kits, decal sheets, resin, weapons et al that you may be able to find new and second-hand and covers all scales.

What a shameless plug :blush: ... I shall go and do my penance ... fitting the wings and LERX to a 1/48th scale Hasegawa AV-8B II NA.

Just to add to Enzo's excellent post on the doors - look at enough Harrier photos and you'll see all combinations, but front open, rear closed is by far the most common for a "dispersed" Harrier. Makes me wonder why the doors are shut for the Hasegawa 1/48th scale Harriers when the instructions offer no "flying" version and the intake doors are "at rest". Most models I've seen on here for these kits have the front doors up!

Ill extend Graham's plug to the entire of the Sig website, paint guides, build guides and many other things. In fact while you're there why not join!

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If you want to laugh then feel free but my ignorance is complete :clown:

Having got the gear doors etc. sorted out for me. Thank You so much for that. I have twoish, hopefully the last, questions;

In 48th does anybody do a resin AV-8A cockpit please, if not what's nearest please?

In 48th is the Pavla-U48029 nose wheel bay suitable for an AV-8A, if not, is there one that is? I've got a Sea Harrier Walk-round book Wings and Wheels (?) would the bay be the same?

I am in the Harrier SiG but that's because I know very little except that I like the plane! I've also lost my site log-in details :frantic:

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From what I can recall there are quite a few differences in the nose gear bay between an AV-8A and a SHAR due to the different fuselage structures in that region but will take a trawl through my references and give you a bit more useful information soon as I can.

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Count me in for this one as well - 1:48 Revell GR7/9. Just checked the box and I appear to have been collecting bits for this as well: Aries MB Mk12/A seat, brengun step ladder, Flightpath TIALD & Paveway II bombs, Two Mikes Resin 100% LERX.

Is that LERX appropriate? I'm not a Harrier expert so I bow to the authority of the experts!

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Count me in for this one as well - 1:48 Revell GR7/9. Just checked the box and I appear to have been collecting bits for this as well: Aries MB Mk12/A seat, brengun step ladder, Flightpath TIALD & Paveway II bombs, Two Mikes Resin 100% LERX.

Is that LERX appropriate? I'm not a Harrier expert so I bow to the authority of the experts!

Welcome,

The LERX choice depends on which airframe you want to model, what you need is this:

http://harriersig.org.uk/models/lerxv1.pdf

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Superb, thanks - looks like I'll be doing the GR9 version of ZG478 under those circumstances!

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Superb, thanks - looks like I'll be doing the GR9 version of ZG478 under those circumstances!

Just a couple of rough rules of thumb:

A "ZD" would probably be 65% LERX

A "ZG" would probably be 100% LERX

GR7 = TIALD, GR9 = SNIPER

There are of course exceptions (some 65 a/c were changed to 100).

Cheers,

Kirk

PS/ Another thumbs up for the Harrier SIG - wonderful resource.

PPS/ I recently spotted what I *think* may be a GR9 differentiator: The left hand MPCD on some GR9s seems to be the latest LCD version as found on the US AV-8B+s with a brightness knob above the top row of push buttons. Never seen one of these on a GR7, but there may be GR9s without this mod.

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