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  1. Greetings All. For those of you who saw my recent Whippet: and I’m pleased to say that your fantastic feedback has urged me to get cracking with the next proper project. So here we go – obscure WWI scratchbuild!!! I’ve selected this… For a number of reasons: 1. It’s got flat armour. 2. It’s got covered wheels (no spokes) 3. It’s got virtually no info about it available (as far as I can tell). I’m new to scratchbuilding; the Whippet was my first and I don’t have a toolshed full of lovely treats like lathes and milling machines – so everything needs to be do-able with just a few simple tools, especially at the moment under re-located lockdown. Scalpel – check. Pin vice – check. Tweezers – check. Glue – check. Right, let’s get cracking! This vehicle makes it as easy as I can get it, and with very little reference material, who’s to say I’m wrong? No worrying about whether I should model the 1916 pattern leather belt flange spronglets, or the 1915 tin and papier-mache versions with overlapping fringe dongles….. nice! First (and possibly the biggest) challenge – wheels. I used Alexandr Bondar’s excellent card model instructions from the landships II website - http://www.landships.info/landships/models.html# Scaling these up in photoshop to an estimated, and as close as I can get by eye, 1/35 (fingers crossed), the wheels scaled out to 21.6mm internal diameter (inside of the rim), and 28mm external outside of the tyre. As luck would have it, a furtle around in my plumbing spares came up with some 22mm plastic speedfit pipe. The bends and connectors unscrewed to reveal a bunch of 28mm diameter O rings. Sheer luck, but I’m taking it as a good omen. I studied the 3 photos and instructions that appear to be all that is known about this vehicle and concluded that as with most other WWI era British armoured cars, double tyres were installed on the rear wheels, with minimal if no tread. The O rings have it! So far, so good, but a tricky bit had to occur somewhere, and in this case it’s the rear wheel itself. The solid centre of the front wheel is clearly flat, but the thicker rear is dished, with a conical plate – hmm. Not so straightforward. I cut a few over-sized circles and sliced them to make cones. A few experiments and a couple were glued together, held in place while the glue set by mounting them within the cut sections of tube that will form the rims. On releasing them, it was clear that the join wasn’t perfect, tending to meet at an angle rather than curve, so a bit of milliput will be smeared in with plenty of water to smooth it. All this wheel work required a few circles to be cut out of 0.5mm and 0.2mm plastic card. Here’s (one of) the way(s) I do it – pin in a pin-vice, scribed repeatedly ‘round a circle template. Snap out the circle and clean up with sandpaper. All ok so far, but don’t hold your breath – this could take a while…. See you next time!
  2. it’s been over thirty years in the making, the bridge between my first modelling era and my second. It’s almost a scratch build as I’ve only used the fuselage, spinner and wheels with a scratch interior, wings, tail plane. Pretty happy with the result, feels weird to be finished it after so long. One step closer to restoring the balance of power on the WWI shelf. From left to right, ( front row) the Albatros, scratch Pfalz DrI, Sopwith Triplane, scratch Wight quadraplane (back row) DFW Floh, scratch Sopwith Pup, Scratch Sopwith Snark. Next build to finish is my Scratch Junkers JI.
  3. I needed to do something worthy of being shut in so I took the one kit that intimidated me the most and this was it. I just completed this and I am very very happy with the kit from Copper State, it just an excellent kit! Not that this was a simple or easy build - you clearly get your modeling money out of it. I could not get the decals on the roundels to lay down so I took them off and used my circle cutter to mask and spray them (I love that circle cutter). Also, the instructions are lacking in two particular areas, 1) I had some trouble with color call outs for some parts and 2) the rigging diagram for under the wing is lacking. The latter might be something the Copper State could post online as there were references here on Britmodeller when the kit was first announced that helped a bit on this. Anyway, you would think you might need a jig to get this all squared up but the kit is designed such that the struts going through the nacelles and cockpit provide an excellent and very solid connection between the two wings and also the booms are solidly connected. This is just an excellently designed kit comes with an extensive set of photo etch. Odd with all that photo etch there are no seat belts, which would have helped. I could use elastic thread through out the build and did not need to pin any of the struts, they were easy to get into place and solidly connected. Aftermarket, other than Eduard seatbelts is Albion Alloys Brass Tube for turnbuckles (.4MM OD/.2MM ID) with worked very good. Love that stuff as you can score and cut it with an exacto knife without crushing the tube. I added wire pushrods to the engines and rigged with Uschi standard rigging and threaded the top wing connection with 2lb test fishing line. I realize it is not perfect - it is still only a model but it looks cool on the mantel.
  4. TopDrawings 89 British Fighter Aircraft S.E.5a ISBN: 9788366148765 Kagero Publishing via Casemate UK The S.E.5 stood for Scout Experimental 5, and was developed at around the same time as the Sopwith Camel, with similar performance, but some minor issues with the Hispano Suiza engine that put a crimp in production initially, with less than a hundred made before the improvements made resulted in the S.E.5a. It was a fast aircraft, and although it couldn’t turn quite as quickly as some, its stability made it a good platform from which to fire with accurate results from a skilled operator. It quickly gained favour with pilots and officials alike, and over 5,000 were made once the engine problem was resolved, with many powered by the Wolseley Viper and plenty of Aces achieving their tallies in S.E.5a airframes. A few US squadrons were also equipped with them by the end of the war, at which point the type was quickly retired from service with only one example of the more streamlined S.E.5b having been made. We have kits in almost every scale from 1:144 upwards, some old, some new with many major and some minor manufacturers getting in on the act, showing that it's still a popular subject over 100 years later. The TopDrawings series majors on scale plans, which is the main thrust, but also includes a little background information, some pertinent profiles, and separate A4 sheets printed on both sides with drawings of various aspects of the aircraft. The book is written in English on the left of the page, with Polish on the right, which translates to top and bottom for the captions to the various drawings within. The book itself is bound in a card cover and has 20 pages, and the rear cover devoted to additional profiles of two S.E.5as in radically different schemes. After the introduction, the first half of the plans show the S.E.5 then S.E.5a aircraft from every angle in 1:48 with smaller detail drawings in 1:24. After this are the colour profiles with four pages of profiles wearing some interesting camo schemes, including one captured by the post-Czarist Bolsheiviks in 1920. After the break are more plans, including a number of minor variants with twin trainer cockpit openings and one with a single seat and a partial canopy over the front of the area. At the end are profile drawings of civilian variants, then two pages of detail pictures of the real thing. Throughout the book, there are numerous smaller diagrams that show cross-sections, equipment layout such as the cockpit, armament, engine and prop. The loose sheets contain three more profiles of various airframes on one side, with the remaining three sides full of drawings that show the internal wooden structure of the wings, fuselage and tail, plus detail of the instrument panel. Conclusion These books are essential for the modeller that enjoys comparing their models against scale plans, and wants them to be as accurate as possible, with the loose pages handy if you wanted to strip away some of the fabric of your model to show the inner workings and wooden structure. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Hello all. This is my first time posting anything on this site so I will try and get things right. I have started making the 18Pdr filed gun and limber from the Tommys War resin kit. This is what I have so far: The detail is fantastic but the instructions are a little bare. The gun sights I had to figure out from online photos of the real thing and then figure out how to attach it. I also have a bit of a problem with the carriage of the gun being a bit warped. The I've added some extra detail on the limber with a rifle, handles and strapping up what I believe is called a "swingle tree"
  6. Sopwith 5F.1 Dolphin C3799 Capt. Irving Today I finished my third model this year: a Sopwith 5F.1 Dolphin created from the fantastic Copper State Models 1/48 kit. This was a looong running project, started in 2018, but paused also due to participation of an Group Build. My entry (Fokker D.VII) was awarded with two sets of Pheon decals, so I changed my plan to the blue Dolphin C3799 of Capt. Irving. This was the Premium edition of the kit, so it has a resin engine and metal exhausts. Beside the Pheon decals I used RAF wire terminals, turnbuckles, Vickers and Lewis MGs from Gaspatch. The seat belts are done by HGW. Some wooden parts are scratched like airscrew, boxwood struts and tailskid. Also metal parts are added made from brass and nickel silver like fuel caps, a metal landing gear and more. Paints are used from Alclad, Mr. Paint, Gunze and oils. And now I'm curious about your opinions! Enough of the introductory words - now the pictures! A negative stagger wing. If not ugly, at least strange. Please not the thin outlets of the exhaust. This project was a lot of fun! Cheers Frank EDIT: Please scroll down for detail and outdoor pictures!
  7. This is going to be my student build in response to Martian's Hawker Horsley Vacuform Tutorial. Thanks for looking in. Stephen
  8. Hi all This is my last finished model, an Albatros from Eduard in 1/48. Beautiful model, with a very good level of detail. But really hard to build, a test for our patience. It's my first 1/48 wwI model, and the first time I do wood textures... Cheers R.
  9. Iv'e been working on this kit from Special Hobby. First up are some engine shots; it builds up from resin and PE parts. I added 50+ some scratch parts like valves, rocker arms and spark plugs. Morane by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Morane by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr And here painted up, weathering consisted of Tamiya Dark Brown panel liner over a Vajello Aluminum base coat. A fine toning of the Tamiya product shot though the airbrush tied things together. Morane by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Morane by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Thanks for looking, more soon. Ryan
  10. At one point I had decided there were too many planes to build without having to deal with WWI biplanes. They just seemed like too much work with the rigging and getting the wings straight but I still had that temptation to try one. So I took a leap and this was my first Bi-Plane, with I guess must go back about 10 to 15 years. It is DML kit #5902 their first boxing of the 1/48 SPAD XIII and I have to say it is a great kit and a perfect kit to get you started into bi-planes. It comes with rigging in the form of wires and a bit of photo-etch but not alot. And best of all the fit is .fantastic. Only problem I had is the decals were not great (but this was an old kit by the time I tackled it). The stars are from the spare's bin and are too large for this specific plane but they worked for effect and the white on the roundels is translucent but other than that you get a very nice colorful aircraft that easily fits into any cabinet. This specific aircraft was flown by the United States shortly after the war in celebration of victory (thus the red and white stripes with white stars on a blue background). Not perfect by any means but fun to build and it got me hooked.
  11. Here is my last build, which is the Mirage Hobby Halberstadt 1/48 CL..IV. This is a nice kit with my only issue it did not come with Lozenge and I don't think these are exactly the right colors as this was an aircraft built by Roland and I believe they had a lozenge that looked a bit more brown. I have also included it with the CL.II which it shares quite a bit in common, such as the wings and engine. This was a ground attack aircraft that served late in the war.
  12. Just staying at home, thankfully I have a large stash of models to keep me busy but no more going to the LHS for that one-off paint color – it is going to have to be mixed. I either have it here or I will need to do without or wait for mail order to arrive. Am waiting now of a decal set for my next project so here is my latest effort, the Mirage Hobby Halberstadt CL.II. This served as a German ground attack aircraft in WWI. A two-seater that had the pilot and rear gunner in the same extended cockpit. There are problems, one in particular is the fuselage band is not far enough back. Also, I have concluded that I hate doing lozenge but what choice do you have if you want German aircraft from later in WWI. The kit is expensive to begin with and then they don’t include lozenge decals. And this particular aircraft had bombs which are also not included in the kit (I scratch built a few). The decals for the fuselage which try to duplicate the stipple (dot) paint scheme is going to be hard to get right as they are not sperate by panel but continuous so I scraped that idea and used large old brush from my wife and it worked OK. Also, there is no way the wings are going to stay put unless you insert pins, which I did. That done it seems to stay together. Comes with lots of photo-etch with I used some of. I am also not convince all the colors are right as they only have Vallerjo call-outs and they don’t easily translate to Tamiya (which I have lots of).
  13. Modelling seems to be quite a nostalgic thing, and I might be one of the worst in this. I've grown an habit out of building models, that I did as a small kid, like the Swordfish recently, and some others. But I want to stick only to the topic and model, not the specific kit - so I secretely dream of Special Hobby doing a Westland Scout, but shying away from the old, yet original Airfix kit from the 70ies, which I remember having build not only once, in it's blister bag. I loved it. And here's another of these all time favourites, which I build on sunday mornings with my dad, before having lunch with family and therefore moving the kit aside for our traditional Wiener Schnitzel - but still having an eye on the kit while eating - I'm talking about the bagged Fokker Dreidecker from Airfix, in 72 scale, molded in red, when detailled accuracy was only secondary to easy fun. So, it struck me some weeks ago and finally bought Eduards Dr.1 in 48, the Profipack to have all the niceties coming along. I'm a bit in an undecided state of mind; I definitely want to do a good looking model,, but on the other hand I feel like building one, that looks like the old Airfix model, with all of it's historic inaccuracies. So, what I found on some of builds of this specific model, the final result looking a bit, say, "blunt". Not that it lacks any detail, but it just, I don't now, as if the layer of colour on it is a bit to thick. Do you know what i mean? Might be just like that, too many layers of colour, or might also be the red to bright and shiny, looking like a Ferrari and not like a weathered WWI bird. So, what IS decided so far ist the colour, being a red - I used Revell Karminrot matte - added a drop of black, macking it slightly brownish and darker. Also I think of doing some chipping on the cowling, which I painted in Alclad steel yet. Also, I think of painting it semi-matte or even glossy, to make a difference in painted linen and metal. First idea from the workbench: But, then, should I go for one of the historic correct versions, then it will be the all red earlier bird? Or should I take the freedom to mix, my idea is the white tail of the later, but still wearing the croix pattée, instead of the latter (but correct) solid cross. I even think of the white square around, just as depicted on the cover art of the Airfix model. Until continuing, what do you think? Would you opt for accuracy, or allow some freedom for the sake of nostalgia?
  14. This is my second completed kit of the year, the Albatross D.II by Eduard. I have built quite a few of their WWI kits and I have to say I this they are great. This was my first attempt at a wood grain finish on the fuselage and I think it came out nicely. I added Eduard seatbelts and used Uschi's high stretch elastic rigging thread. If not for this thread I think I would have thrown in the towel on building WWI aircraft long ago. Also, I used Gas Patch anchors for the rigging but I am not happy with the results but it was my own fault - I should have thought out the order of attaching them as they went in too early in the process and it is difficult to open those holes up again. I don't normally weather my WWI aircraft, no particular reason except I like the bright colors so I just leave them as they are.
  15. Being Austrian, the topic of Aviation is something, that you're only involved from a distance, if any. Apart from being famous for the prolongued use of Swedish flying history (we used the Draken until 2005, making it a 50 year old plane in active service) and difficult purchasing processes, there isn't much aviation happening in Austria in the recent years. That wasn't always the case, as in the very early days of aviation, the Royal Austro-Hungarian Aviation Troops (or K.u.K. Luftfahrttruppen) where the seventh-largest airforce in the world, While, to be honest, most of the models where derived from German models, there was a kind of an Aviation industry in Austria. Me definitely not being exposed to patriotic influences in a larger dose, this just being a bit of a historic sideletter to larger chapters in the book of flight. But not too long ago I found out, that one of the larger companies, the Phönix Flugzeugwerke AG, had it's original location close to where I was raised and used to play as a small boy in the 70ies. Even the original factory buildings where partly in use then, in my memory a transport carrier was located there until the early 2000s. So, this has become something a bit personal, and when I discoverd that Special Hobby had a DI in their offering, I had to order one sometimes last year or so. Giving it the usual time to mellow it in the stash, I stated to work on it this summer. Sorry for not involving you in a WIP, it just started as a side project and sort of a late night build, but nevertheless I finished yesterday. About the build; the modell is somekind of basic in some aspects, with only some 30 plastic parts, complemented by some resin- and photoetch parts, Some parts are really beautiful, like the body with nicely molded caps and lids, and some nicely structures for rivets and various structures, and some very parts are so basic, like struts and landing gear, it almost hurts. Also, there is no structure for holding or giving a bit of positioning aid when mounting the upper wings, so from a point in build, about when the lower wings has been mounted, I'd say, you mainly use CA-glue as, plastic cements just doesn't do the job any more. Also, the instructions are somewhat very basic, giving just an rough idea what to do. So there where moments when I sincerely doubted to finish this - but I've went through, but ordered some help in form of a biplane jig from JS models, without I doubt I would have been there. And, yes; I know there are other jigs as well, but this was the only one available late night, when I suffered a moment of deep desparation. For the version I wanted to display; as I didn't like the brown mottle camouflage offered with the decals, I decided to give here a bare livery without any paint, of natural wood and bare linen. I painted the wings in Light Stone Grey from Lifecolor, giving it a quite yellowy linen colour, the body/wood structure with Cold base Wood, also from Livecolor and giving it a cover of Uschi Van Der Rosten wood decals. For the rear struts (after some examination, if these are thin struts, not wires). I used some electric guitar strings. Beware, these are very strong and can easily kill some modelling tools. Caps and hoods were painted with Alclad Semi Matt Aluminium, which maybe turned out a bit to matte, but I think it's okay. Rigging is done with EZ Fine, I decided not to make any turnbuckles, as these are so tiny one would barely see. Maybe I'll change this in future builds of that scale, but I do not miss them overly on this, to be honest. Mayor difficulties where the installation of the upper wing, as stated before, the mounting of the exhaust pipes, which I didn't manage to align properly, due to having installed to upper wing prior, and not having drilled some holes at the very beginning, but according to the manual. While definitely not being perfect and having a lot of flaws, I'm happy so far with the result of this little bit of kind of exotic early aviation. Here are some impressions, some details look much harsher as on the real model, due to small size:
  16. French Zouaves (1914) ICM 1:35 (35709) Like most of the colonial powers France recruited troops from its colonies. The Zouaves were mainly recruited from French North Africa these men were lead by French officers and NCOs. In early WWI there were four regiments of such troops and these troops still wore their colourful local dress. Due to the nature of WWI they would adopt Khaki from 1915 onward. These troops played a major part in WWI with 9 regiments in total being raised, they were committed troops especially in attack. This set of four figures from ICM is for the figures in 1914 still in their traditional uniforms. There is one sprue with three local troops and one French Officer. As usual with ICM the figures are well sculpted and look like they will assemble with no problems. There is then another sprue with a lot of French infantry equipment, some o which will not be used and will be handy for the spare box, Conclusion This is a good set which provide colour for a WWI diorama. Highly Recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  17. FE.2b Early My next project is the FE.2b early of Wingnut Wings in 1/32. The machine will be the FE.2b with the number 6352 “Baroda 15” from 23 Squadron in March 1916. His opponent was Immelmann, with his Fokker E.II I will build it afterwards. Until now, I did not find an original photo of this machine. If someone has a photo of this machine, so please put it into the forum. That would make me very happy about it. If somebody has the book about the FE2b from Cross & Cockade, which is out of stock, and the pdf not ready yet. Maybe. One thing more: You suggestion for the top color PC8. What did you use in opposite to PC10? In Hendon, RAF museum, I only saw the black FE.2b. Happy modelling
  18. Albatros D.I – D.III Warpaint No.122 Guideline Publications The Albatros was one of the better WWI fighters, entering service in 1916 and utilising advanced (for the time) construction techniques to lessen weight while gaining structural strength. It initially suffered from lack of manoeuvrability due to the high wing load, which was partially addressed by the D.II with a narrower gap between the two wings. Engine cooling was via the centre section of the upper wing to avoid draining the system I the event of a bullet strike, but scalded pilots might disagree with that idea. Its successor the D.III had further redesigned wings and struts but used the same fuselage, and this version saw extensive service to the end of the war, while the later D.V superseded it on the production lines and often served alongside its ancestors. A lot of the survivors of WWI were sold to Poland where they carried on in service but saw limited combat until the Polish/Soviet war where their age and stresses of combat caused their eventual removal from service. This book by author Dave Hooper covers the birth and development of the airframe in much more detail, as well as providing tons of excellent pictures, many of which are in black and white due to their being contemporary shots, plus plans and profiles in the centre, penned by Jan Polc. The book is in the usual Warpaint format of portrait A4(ish) with a soft card cover and 48 pages plus content printed on the four glossy pages of the covers. A short introduction details the birth of the type and its subsequent upgrades. Introduction Albatros Werke Gmbh Before the War The Genesis of the D-Type and the Jasta The Birth of the Jasta and Boelcke’s Dicta Enter the Albatros The Albatros goes to the Front First Blood Two Colour Profiles with overheads October – A month of Successes, Ending in Tragedy The Albatros D.III Four Colour Profiles The Beginning of a New Year – Winter 1917 Operation Alberich Four Colour Profiles Drawings by Jan Polc Four Colour Profiles Blood April The Beginning of the End The Austro-Hungarian Albatros (OEF) Albatros in Combat The Albatros in Foreign Service Albatros D.I-D.III in detail. 8 pages of a preserved airframe in colour Kits, Decals & Accessories list Four Colour Profiles The pages include a lot of useful pictures with informative captions of aircraft in maintenance, on the field and even pranged/scrapped, with appropriate photos and drawings dotted around. Throughout the "In Detail" section there are many, many close-up photos with some items numbered that will be a boon to modellers as well as people that like to know what everything does. Conclusion The Warpaint series always gets a thumbs-up due to their inability to produce a dud! This is an excellent book that will see plenty of use by anyone interest in, or building a model of one of these wooden warriors. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  19. US Army Drivers 1917-18 (35706) 1:35 ICM via Hannants We reviewed the Standard Liberty truck that this set is intended to mesh with here a few weeks back, and that kit included a squad of US troops. This set arrives in a small top opening box with the usual ICM style captive inner lid and a single sprue of grey styrene wrapped in a resealable bag with instruction sheet. There are two figures on the sprue, and the one doing the driving is a private with putties and utility belt with braces, while the co-driver is his commander with knee-high leather boots and Captain's rank insignia on his shoulder boards. They are both in the seated position as you'd expect and the driver has his hands out grasping the wheel with his feet appropriately angled for the pedals. This is ICM, so sculpting is excellent with simple parts breakdown along natural seams speeding up assembly and preparation for paint. Each figure is broken down into head, torso and separate arms and legs. The hats are separate parts to achieve a better brim and these have a flat contact patch with the equally flat-topped heads, plus moulded-in detail of the hat band with tassles. Conclusion An excellent addition to your Liberty truck at a good price, or any other vehicle used by the US Army in WWI, although the driver may require a little adjustment if the controls for the driver are different. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  20. Standard B Liberty Truck with WWI US Infantry (35652) 1:35 ICM via Hannants Ltd. The Liberty truck was a collaboration between the major US manufacturers and the Quartermasters Corps to reduce the need to carry spare parts for every weird and wacky truck that might find its way into service. The aim was to cut down on the breadth of inventory they needed to keep in stock to maintain the vehicles, and to reduce the training needed for their mechanics who only needed to be familiar with one main design. Production began in mid 1917 as American was becoming more involved in the Great War and with very few alterations over 9,000 were made before the ending of hostilities. The vehicle's engine was also a collaboration and pushed out a staggering 52hp linked to a 4-speed box that drove all wheels, propelling the truck to a break-neck 15mph on a good road, drinking a gallon every seven miles at best, which with a 22 gallon tank gave it a fairly short range. The Kit This isn't a brand new tooling, but was released in 2018 so it's barely out of the "new" range. This reboxing contains an additional set of US WWI Soldiers with their distinctive "mountie" hats from the era. It is a high quality kit with a lot of detail that provides a full interior, erected tilt and bare frame options and engine. The kit arrives in a standard ICM box with four sprues for the truck and two more for the soldiers, plus a clear sprue and decal sheet between the pages of the instruction booklet. Two additional sheets of instructions are included for the soldiers and their accessory sprue. Construction begins with the chassis with leaf suspension fore and aft, then spacer rails to join them together, radiator, axles and steering gear. The rear axle is a substantial chunk and has large drum brakes with a drive-shaft leading to a central transfer box in the middle of the chassis. Front mud guards, bumper bar with rebound springs are added, then it's time to add the wheels with two singles at the front, and two pairs at the rear all with spoked hubs and moulded-in solid rubber tyres around the rim. There is a choice of hub caps on the front wheels, then the engine is made up from 11 parts and dropped in place on the chassis behind the radiator along with a two-part manifold and short exhaust pipe that you'll have to take a small drill to if you want it hollow. The connection to the radiator from the block sprouts from the top of the engine, and at this early stage the gear shifter is installed on the top of the box, ready for the crew cab later. The cab is formed on an stepped floor part that has tread-plate moulded in, to which the sides, full-width bench seat and the firewall with dashboard and fuel tank are attached. Two foldable crew steps are stowed under the floor, and the steering column inserts almost vertically into a hole in the floor, then the assembly is added behind the engine allowing the cowling to be fitted together with a perforated grille that sits forward of the cowling by a few scale inches. The hand brake attaches to the side of the transmission hump, and then it's time for the load bed. The floor is stiffened by five lateral ribs and the front wall is added and braced by the side panels, which also have 4 stiffeners, then two stowage boxes are glued in place under the floor at the front. The tailgate is made up from two thicknesses and is added at whatever variation of open or closed you fancy, then the whole bed is fitted to the chassis on tabs and depressions to get the correct location. Back in the cab the steering wheel, searchlight with clear lens and horn are all fitted, the last two on the top of the dash, and two headlamps again with clear lenses are attached to the outside front of the cab. The area is then decorated with a multitude of grab handles, closures and two towing hooks at the front of the chassis rail. A starter handle is inserted into the front, and the cab's tilt is made up from three styrene parts with two clear portholes and it too is fitted to the cab. The cover for the cargo bed can be modelled either hidden away with just the framework visible, or with the canvas draped over for a bit of variety. The framework option is quite delicate, so care will be needed when taking the frames off the sprues to avoid breakage. There are five of them and they fit at intervals to the sides with a substantial overlap for strength. The covered parts comprise front section, two sides with the exposed parts of the frames sticking down, a rolled-up rear cover, and separate roof section. All have realistic drape and creases moulded in, and your only task is to hide the seams before you apply paint, whilst avoiding breaking off the ends of the frames that hang down. The Figures Four soldiers are supplied on one sprue with their equipment on another sprue. They are all standing with one taking a photo of the others on a box-brownie type camera, while the others walk along, only one of which is acknowledging the camera with a wave. They are broken down into separate heads, hats, torsos, legs and arms, with the arms broken down further where sensible, and the walkers each have a large kit bag that is slung over both their shoulders with rucksack type straps, and over that are their rifles, the slings for which you'll have to make yourself from foil or tape. The accessory sprue contains a plethora of weapons and accessories, most of which you either won't use or can be dotted around this and any other models of the period you may make, including battle bowlers, pistols, pouches, tools, a Lewis gun and other oddities. The instructions show the part locations for each sprue and a combined assembly and painting diagram that is covered in little arrows, with the remaining sheet showing construction of the accessories, their painting and even the names of each item on the sprue, which is very helpful. Markings There are two decal options for the truck, both of which are the same colour, olive green for the body, and khaki for the canvas areas. The sheet is small and includes a few stencils, divisional badges and a warning to carry no more than 3 tons. Conclusion A beautifully detailed kit of an early truck from WWI with the bonus of some very nicely moulded US soldiers into the bargain. Highly recommended. Available from Importers H G Hannants Ltd. In the UK Review sample courtesy of
  21. Standard B “Liberty” Series 2 WWI US Army Truck ICM 1:35 (35651) As America's war effort ramped up in 1917, there was a collective realisation that the fleet of vehicles needed to support a semi-mechanised army needed some standardisation. The Liberty truck was the solution. It was designed by the Motor Transport section of the Quartermaster Corps in cooperation with the members of the Society of Automotive Engineers. A group of leading automotive engineers was summoned to Washington in 1917 to design standardised trucks for the AEF. It took 50 men 69 days to design a 1-½ ton "A" model and the 3–5 ton "B" model. Production of the Liberty B began in the fall of 1917, and the first models were delivered to the secretary of war on 19 October. Of the almost 9,500 produced by 15 manufacturers, more than 7,500 were sent overseas. The Liberty's four-speed transmission coupled with its 52-hp engine gave the truck a top speed of about 15 miles per hour. The series 2 truck was actually a much simpler one with most of the electrical systems removed and the lamps replaced by oil ones. It had a slightly different radiator, fuel & oil systems. The Model The model arrives in a strong box with a separate top sleeve with a nice artist’s representation of the vehicle on the front. Inside, within a large poly bag, are four sprues of medium grey styrene and, in a separate poly bag, one clear sprue. On initial inspection the parts are really well moulded, clean, with no sign of flash. There are a number of moulding pips, some of which are on quite fragile looking parts, so care should be taken when removing. The sprue gates attaching items like the tilt rails are also quite heavy and I can see these parts breaking if not careful. The build starts with the chassis, with each rail being fitted fore and aft leaf springs, each of two parts. Two of the cross-members are assembled from two parts each before being fitted to one of the chassis rails, along with three other single piece cross-members followed by the other rail. The radiator is then assembled from six parts before being glued into position at the front of the chassis. The single piece front axle is then glued to the front pair of leaf springs and a further cross-member is also glued into place. The rear differential is made up from fourteen parts which include the rear drum brakes. The front bumper beam and transfer box are also assembled and glued into position along with the drive shafts and three piece front mudguards. The front wheels and single piece items with a choice of separate hub caps, the rears being made up of inner and outer wheels with separate tyres and hub caps. The completed wheels are then attached to their respective axles. Work then begins on the engine, which is made up from eleven parts. Once assembled, it is fitted to the chassis along with the two piece exhaust pipe and silencer. The gearstick is then added to the gearbox and the engine fitted with two more parts. The cabin is then assembled from twenty one parts before being fitted to the chassis over the gearstick, followed by the outer radiator grille, and two piece bonnet, which could easily be made to be posed open to show off the engine, even though it’s not moulded that way. The next assembly is the truck bed, with the bed itself being fitted with the sides, rear, and front plank sections. On the underside, five lateral strengthening beams, and the sides with four vertical beams each. Two five piece storage boxes are assembled and fitted to the front underside of the bed before the whole assembly is attached to the chassis. There is a five piece searchlight and two piece horn attached to the cabin coaming and the steering wheel is also glued into place at this point. The pair of two piece headlights are attached to the front of the cabin bulkhead, while the bonnet latches, and grab handles, plus the cabin access handles are fitted, as is the starting handle. The cabin roof is fitted with left and right hand frames before being glue into place, and on the bed the modeller has the option of just fitting the five tilt rails, or the complete canvas cover which is made up from five parts, completing the build. Decals The small decal sheet gives the modeller just two options of vehicle, both in use by the US army in 1918. The decals are nicely printed, clear and in good register with a slightly matt finish. Conclusion It’s great to finally see a WW1 Liberty tuck being kitted, and again with this series 2 vehicle. It’s not overly complicated, which is good to see, even though the truck itself was pretty simple, and would be a great kit for any level of modeller. Review sample courtesy of
  22. My daughter got me this wonderful kit for Christmas. It has re-kindled my interest in WWI aircraft. The kit's painting guide is very basic so I bought this Eduard Kit in the hope I will get a painting guide and some nice decals. Thanks for looking. Stephen
  23. Lanchester 4x2 Armoured Car Copper State Model 1/35 This is CSM's new WWI era Lanchester armoured car. It's quite a simple little kit compared to some of the armour mega-kits that come from a lot of manufacturers these days. Despite the simplicity though, it really is a joy to put together. The fit is just about perfect, and the whole thing was built up and ready for paint in only 4 days. There's some really nice example of moulding to, like the front fenders which are thin enough to almost pass for being photo etched, and the wheel spokes which are remarkably thin for an injection moulded part. There are a couple of errors in the kit. The little bump on top of the turret is a socket for a flag, and it should be closer to the turret roof hatch rather than at the front edge. Also the insides of the rear wheel arches should be panelled off, instead of being open as they are here. Neither of them are big deals though and are pretty easy to fix. CSM have a photo etch set in the works for this kit, although to be honest, I don't think it's really necessary. They do have some nice figures though which should work well for a diorama. This one's painted with Gunze RLM 65 and RLM 76 in a rough representation of Admiralty light grey Thanks for looking Andy
  24. Here's a Flashback I finished a few years ago. The color profile for this model is in the JaPo book on the Aviatik D.I & D.II page 98. The prototype photo is on 87. I used a Micron brown pen to add the numerous dot pattern and the sealed it an added the streaking.
  25. I have always been fascinated with the looks of this beast, and it was indeed a challenge to complete it. Ancient, outdated kit but with enough material to get it finished. A new softer, light gray plastic, made rear fuselage swung a bit, but I can live with it. Wings canvas structure looked cartoonish, it had to be almost sand off. Used 0.73mm fishing nylon for rigging, Front machine gun is Eduard’s excellent photoetch Scarff gun ring which sits prominently at the front of the plane and is good investment (thanks @warhawk). PC-10 green is Humbrol's Hu 163. A few in progress pics: A sofisticated 4o dihedral jig. It is quite big actually: Paper clips were use to keep rig lines tight during gluing.
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