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Found 81 results

  1. This is going to be my student build in response to Martian's Hawker Horsley Vacuform Tutorial. Thanks for looking in. Stephen
  2. Hello all. This is my first time posting anything on this site so I will try and get things right. I have started making the 18Pdr filed gun and limber from the Tommys War resin kit. This is what I have so far: The detail is fantastic but the instructions are a little bare. The gun sights I had to figure out from online photos of the real thing and then figure out how to attach it. I also have a bit of a problem with the carriage of the gun being a bit warped. The I've added some extra detail on the limber with a rifle, handles and strapping up what I believe is called a "swingle tree"
  3. Sopwith 5F.1 Dolphin C3799 Capt. Irving Today I finished my third model this year: a Sopwith 5F.1 Dolphin created from the fantastic Copper State Models 1/48 kit. This was a looong running project, started in 2018, but paused also due to participation of an Group Build. My entry (Fokker D.VII) was awarded with two sets of Pheon decals, so I changed my plan to the blue Dolphin C3799 of Capt. Irving. This was the Premium edition of the kit, so it has a resin engine and metal exhausts. Beside the Pheon decals I used RAF wire terminals, turnbuckles, Vickers and Lewis MGs from Gaspatch. The seat belts are done by HGW. Some wooden parts are scratched like airscrew, boxwood struts and tailskid. Also metal parts are added made from brass and nickel silver like fuel caps, a metal landing gear and more. Paints are used from Alclad, Mr. Paint, Gunze and oils. And now I'm curious about your opinions! Enough of the introductory words - now the pictures! A negative stagger wing. If not ugly, at least strange. Please not the thin outlets of the exhaust. This project was a lot of fun! Cheers Frank
  4. Hi all This is my last finished model, an Albatros from Eduard in 1/48. Beautiful model, with a very good level of detail. But really hard to build, a test for our patience. It's my first 1/48 wwI model, and the first time I do wood textures... Cheers R.
  5. Iv'e been working on this kit from Special Hobby. First up are some engine shots; it builds up from resin and PE parts. I added 50+ some scratch parts like valves, rocker arms and spark plugs. Morane by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Morane by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr And here painted up, weathering consisted of Tamiya Dark Brown panel liner over a Vajello Aluminum base coat. A fine toning of the Tamiya product shot though the airbrush tied things together. Morane by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Morane by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Thanks for looking, more soon. Ryan
  6. At one point I had decided there were too many planes to build without having to deal with WWI biplanes. They just seemed like too much work with the rigging and getting the wings straight but I still had that temptation to try one. So I took a leap and this was my first Bi-Plane, with I guess must go back about 10 to 15 years. It is DML kit #5902 their first boxing of the 1/48 SPAD XIII and I have to say it is a great kit and a perfect kit to get you started into bi-planes. It comes with rigging in the form of wires and a bit of photo-etch but not alot. And best of all the fit is .fantastic. Only problem I had is the decals were not great (but this was an old kit by the time I tackled it). The stars are from the spare's bin and are too large for this specific plane but they worked for effect and the white on the roundels is translucent but other than that you get a very nice colorful aircraft that easily fits into any cabinet. This specific aircraft was flown by the United States shortly after the war in celebration of victory (thus the red and white stripes with white stars on a blue background). Not perfect by any means but fun to build and it got me hooked.
  7. Here is my last build, which is the Mirage Hobby Halberstadt 1/48 CL..IV. This is a nice kit with my only issue it did not come with Lozenge and I don't think these are exactly the right colors as this was an aircraft built by Roland and I believe they had a lozenge that looked a bit more brown. I have also included it with the CL.II which it shares quite a bit in common, such as the wings and engine. This was a ground attack aircraft that served late in the war.
  8. Just staying at home, thankfully I have a large stash of models to keep me busy but no more going to the LHS for that one-off paint color – it is going to have to be mixed. I either have it here or I will need to do without or wait for mail order to arrive. Am waiting now of a decal set for my next project so here is my latest effort, the Mirage Hobby Halberstadt CL.II. This served as a German ground attack aircraft in WWI. A two-seater that had the pilot and rear gunner in the same extended cockpit. There are problems, one in particular is the fuselage band is not far enough back. Also, I have concluded that I hate doing lozenge but what choice do you have if you want German aircraft from later in WWI. The kit is expensive to begin with and then they don’t include lozenge decals. And this particular aircraft had bombs which are also not included in the kit (I scratch built a few). The decals for the fuselage which try to duplicate the stipple (dot) paint scheme is going to be hard to get right as they are not sperate by panel but continuous so I scraped that idea and used large old brush from my wife and it worked OK. Also, there is no way the wings are going to stay put unless you insert pins, which I did. That done it seems to stay together. Comes with lots of photo-etch with I used some of. I am also not convince all the colors are right as they only have Vallerjo call-outs and they don’t easily translate to Tamiya (which I have lots of).
  9. Modelling seems to be quite a nostalgic thing, and I might be one of the worst in this. I've grown an habit out of building models, that I did as a small kid, like the Swordfish recently, and some others. But I want to stick only to the topic and model, not the specific kit - so I secretely dream of Special Hobby doing a Westland Scout, but shying away from the old, yet original Airfix kit from the 70ies, which I remember having build not only once, in it's blister bag. I loved it. And here's another of these all time favourites, which I build on sunday mornings with my dad, before having lunch with family and therefore moving the kit aside for our traditional Wiener Schnitzel - but still having an eye on the kit while eating - I'm talking about the bagged Fokker Dreidecker from Airfix, in 72 scale, molded in red, when detailled accuracy was only secondary to easy fun. So, it struck me some weeks ago and finally bought Eduards Dr.1 in 48, the Profipack to have all the niceties coming along. I'm a bit in an undecided state of mind; I definitely want to do a good looking model,, but on the other hand I feel like building one, that looks like the old Airfix model, with all of it's historic inaccuracies. So, what I found on some of builds of this specific model, the final result looking a bit, say, "blunt". Not that it lacks any detail, but it just, I don't now, as if the layer of colour on it is a bit to thick. Do you know what i mean? Might be just like that, too many layers of colour, or might also be the red to bright and shiny, looking like a Ferrari and not like a weathered WWI bird. So, what IS decided so far ist the colour, being a red - I used Revell Karminrot matte - added a drop of black, macking it slightly brownish and darker. Also I think of doing some chipping on the cowling, which I painted in Alclad steel yet. Also, I think of painting it semi-matte or even glossy, to make a difference in painted linen and metal. First idea from the workbench: But, then, should I go for one of the historic correct versions, then it will be the all red earlier bird? Or should I take the freedom to mix, my idea is the white tail of the later, but still wearing the croix pattée, instead of the latter (but correct) solid cross. I even think of the white square around, just as depicted on the cover art of the Airfix model. Until continuing, what do you think? Would you opt for accuracy, or allow some freedom for the sake of nostalgia?
  10. This is my second completed kit of the year, the Albatross D.II by Eduard. I have built quite a few of their WWI kits and I have to say I this they are great. This was my first attempt at a wood grain finish on the fuselage and I think it came out nicely. I added Eduard seatbelts and used Uschi's high stretch elastic rigging thread. If not for this thread I think I would have thrown in the towel on building WWI aircraft long ago. Also, I used Gas Patch anchors for the rigging but I am not happy with the results but it was my own fault - I should have thought out the order of attaching them as they went in too early in the process and it is difficult to open those holes up again. I don't normally weather my WWI aircraft, no particular reason except I like the bright colors so I just leave them as they are.
  11. Being Austrian, the topic of Aviation is something, that you're only involved from a distance, if any. Apart from being famous for the prolongued use of Swedish flying history (we used the Draken until 2005, making it a 50 year old plane in active service) and difficult purchasing processes, there isn't much aviation happening in Austria in the recent years. That wasn't always the case, as in the very early days of aviation, the Royal Austro-Hungarian Aviation Troops (or K.u.K. Luftfahrttruppen) where the seventh-largest airforce in the world, While, to be honest, most of the models where derived from German models, there was a kind of an Aviation industry in Austria. Me definitely not being exposed to patriotic influences in a larger dose, this just being a bit of a historic sideletter to larger chapters in the book of flight. But not too long ago I found out, that one of the larger companies, the Phönix Flugzeugwerke AG, had it's original location close to where I was raised and used to play as a small boy in the 70ies. Even the original factory buildings where partly in use then, in my memory a transport carrier was located there until the early 2000s. So, this has become something a bit personal, and when I discoverd that Special Hobby had a DI in their offering, I had to order one sometimes last year or so. Giving it the usual time to mellow it in the stash, I stated to work on it this summer. Sorry for not involving you in a WIP, it just started as a side project and sort of a late night build, but nevertheless I finished yesterday. About the build; the modell is somekind of basic in some aspects, with only some 30 plastic parts, complemented by some resin- and photoetch parts, Some parts are really beautiful, like the body with nicely molded caps and lids, and some nicely structures for rivets and various structures, and some very parts are so basic, like struts and landing gear, it almost hurts. Also, there is no structure for holding or giving a bit of positioning aid when mounting the upper wings, so from a point in build, about when the lower wings has been mounted, I'd say, you mainly use CA-glue as, plastic cements just doesn't do the job any more. Also, the instructions are somewhat very basic, giving just an rough idea what to do. So there where moments when I sincerely doubted to finish this - but I've went through, but ordered some help in form of a biplane jig from JS models, without I doubt I would have been there. And, yes; I know there are other jigs as well, but this was the only one available late night, when I suffered a moment of deep desparation. For the version I wanted to display; as I didn't like the brown mottle camouflage offered with the decals, I decided to give here a bare livery without any paint, of natural wood and bare linen. I painted the wings in Light Stone Grey from Lifecolor, giving it a quite yellowy linen colour, the body/wood structure with Cold base Wood, also from Livecolor and giving it a cover of Uschi Van Der Rosten wood decals. For the rear struts (after some examination, if these are thin struts, not wires). I used some electric guitar strings. Beware, these are very strong and can easily kill some modelling tools. Caps and hoods were painted with Alclad Semi Matt Aluminium, which maybe turned out a bit to matte, but I think it's okay. Rigging is done with EZ Fine, I decided not to make any turnbuckles, as these are so tiny one would barely see. Maybe I'll change this in future builds of that scale, but I do not miss them overly on this, to be honest. Mayor difficulties where the installation of the upper wing, as stated before, the mounting of the exhaust pipes, which I didn't manage to align properly, due to having installed to upper wing prior, and not having drilled some holes at the very beginning, but according to the manual. While definitely not being perfect and having a lot of flaws, I'm happy so far with the result of this little bit of kind of exotic early aviation. Here are some impressions, some details look much harsher as on the real model, due to small size:
  12. French Zouaves (1914) ICM 1:35 (35709) Like most of the colonial powers France recruited troops from its colonies. The Zouaves were mainly recruited from French North Africa these men were lead by French officers and NCOs. In early WWI there were four regiments of such troops and these troops still wore their colourful local dress. Due to the nature of WWI they would adopt Khaki from 1915 onward. These troops played a major part in WWI with 9 regiments in total being raised, they were committed troops especially in attack. This set of four figures from ICM is for the figures in 1914 still in their traditional uniforms. There is one sprue with three local troops and one French Officer. As usual with ICM the figures are well sculpted and look like they will assemble with no problems. There is then another sprue with a lot of French infantry equipment, some o which will not be used and will be handy for the spare box, Conclusion This is a good set which provide colour for a WWI diorama. Highly Recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  13. FE.2b Early My next project is the FE.2b early of Wingnut Wings in 1/32. The machine will be the FE.2b with the number 6352 “Baroda 15” from 23 Squadron in March 1916. His opponent was Immelmann, with his Fokker E.II I will build it afterwards. Until now, I did not find an original photo of this machine. If someone has a photo of this machine, so please put it into the forum. That would make me very happy about it. If somebody has the book about the FE2b from Cross & Cockade, which is out of stock, and the pdf not ready yet. Maybe. One thing more: You suggestion for the top color PC8. What did you use in opposite to PC10? In Hendon, RAF museum, I only saw the black FE.2b. Happy modelling
  14. Albatros D.I – D.III Warpaint No.122 Guideline Publications The Albatros was one of the better WWI fighters, entering service in 1916 and utilising advanced (for the time) construction techniques to lessen weight while gaining structural strength. It initially suffered from lack of manoeuvrability due to the high wing load, which was partially addressed by the D.II with a narrower gap between the two wings. Engine cooling was via the centre section of the upper wing to avoid draining the system I the event of a bullet strike, but scalded pilots might disagree with that idea. Its successor the D.III had further redesigned wings and struts but used the same fuselage, and this version saw extensive service to the end of the war, while the later D.V superseded it on the production lines and often served alongside its ancestors. A lot of the survivors of WWI were sold to Poland where they carried on in service but saw limited combat until the Polish/Soviet war where their age and stresses of combat caused their eventual removal from service. This book by author Dave Hooper covers the birth and development of the airframe in much more detail, as well as providing tons of excellent pictures, many of which are in black and white due to their being contemporary shots, plus plans and profiles in the centre, penned by Jan Polc. The book is in the usual Warpaint format of portrait A4(ish) with a soft card cover and 48 pages plus content printed on the four glossy pages of the covers. A short introduction details the birth of the type and its subsequent upgrades. Introduction Albatros Werke Gmbh Before the War The Genesis of the D-Type and the Jasta The Birth of the Jasta and Boelcke’s Dicta Enter the Albatros The Albatros goes to the Front First Blood Two Colour Profiles with overheads October – A month of Successes, Ending in Tragedy The Albatros D.III Four Colour Profiles The Beginning of a New Year – Winter 1917 Operation Alberich Four Colour Profiles Drawings by Jan Polc Four Colour Profiles Blood April The Beginning of the End The Austro-Hungarian Albatros (OEF) Albatros in Combat The Albatros in Foreign Service Albatros D.I-D.III in detail. 8 pages of a preserved airframe in colour Kits, Decals & Accessories list Four Colour Profiles The pages include a lot of useful pictures with informative captions of aircraft in maintenance, on the field and even pranged/scrapped, with appropriate photos and drawings dotted around. Throughout the "In Detail" section there are many, many close-up photos with some items numbered that will be a boon to modellers as well as people that like to know what everything does. Conclusion The Warpaint series always gets a thumbs-up due to their inability to produce a dud! This is an excellent book that will see plenty of use by anyone interest in, or building a model of one of these wooden warriors. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  15. US Army Drivers 1917-18 (35706) 1:35 ICM via Hannants We reviewed the Standard Liberty truck that this set is intended to mesh with here a few weeks back, and that kit included a squad of US troops. This set arrives in a small top opening box with the usual ICM style captive inner lid and a single sprue of grey styrene wrapped in a resealable bag with instruction sheet. There are two figures on the sprue, and the one doing the driving is a private with putties and utility belt with braces, while the co-driver is his commander with knee-high leather boots and Captain's rank insignia on his shoulder boards. They are both in the seated position as you'd expect and the driver has his hands out grasping the wheel with his feet appropriately angled for the pedals. This is ICM, so sculpting is excellent with simple parts breakdown along natural seams speeding up assembly and preparation for paint. Each figure is broken down into head, torso and separate arms and legs. The hats are separate parts to achieve a better brim and these have a flat contact patch with the equally flat-topped heads, plus moulded-in detail of the hat band with tassles. Conclusion An excellent addition to your Liberty truck at a good price, or any other vehicle used by the US Army in WWI, although the driver may require a little adjustment if the controls for the driver are different. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  16. Standard B Liberty Truck with WWI US Infantry (35652) 1:35 ICM via Hannants Ltd. The Liberty truck was a collaboration between the major US manufacturers and the Quartermasters Corps to reduce the need to carry spare parts for every weird and wacky truck that might find its way into service. The aim was to cut down on the breadth of inventory they needed to keep in stock to maintain the vehicles, and to reduce the training needed for their mechanics who only needed to be familiar with one main design. Production began in mid 1917 as American was becoming more involved in the Great War and with very few alterations over 9,000 were made before the ending of hostilities. The vehicle's engine was also a collaboration and pushed out a staggering 52hp linked to a 4-speed box that drove all wheels, propelling the truck to a break-neck 15mph on a good road, drinking a gallon every seven miles at best, which with a 22 gallon tank gave it a fairly short range. The Kit This isn't a brand new tooling, but was released in 2018 so it's barely out of the "new" range. This reboxing contains an additional set of US WWI Soldiers with their distinctive "mountie" hats from the era. It is a high quality kit with a lot of detail that provides a full interior, erected tilt and bare frame options and engine. The kit arrives in a standard ICM box with four sprues for the truck and two more for the soldiers, plus a clear sprue and decal sheet between the pages of the instruction booklet. Two additional sheets of instructions are included for the soldiers and their accessory sprue. Construction begins with the chassis with leaf suspension fore and aft, then spacer rails to join them together, radiator, axles and steering gear. The rear axle is a substantial chunk and has large drum brakes with a drive-shaft leading to a central transfer box in the middle of the chassis. Front mud guards, bumper bar with rebound springs are added, then it's time to add the wheels with two singles at the front, and two pairs at the rear all with spoked hubs and moulded-in solid rubber tyres around the rim. There is a choice of hub caps on the front wheels, then the engine is made up from 11 parts and dropped in place on the chassis behind the radiator along with a two-part manifold and short exhaust pipe that you'll have to take a small drill to if you want it hollow. The connection to the radiator from the block sprouts from the top of the engine, and at this early stage the gear shifter is installed on the top of the box, ready for the crew cab later. The cab is formed on an stepped floor part that has tread-plate moulded in, to which the sides, full-width bench seat and the firewall with dashboard and fuel tank are attached. Two foldable crew steps are stowed under the floor, and the steering column inserts almost vertically into a hole in the floor, then the assembly is added behind the engine allowing the cowling to be fitted together with a perforated grille that sits forward of the cowling by a few scale inches. The hand brake attaches to the side of the transmission hump, and then it's time for the load bed. The floor is stiffened by five lateral ribs and the front wall is added and braced by the side panels, which also have 4 stiffeners, then two stowage boxes are glued in place under the floor at the front. The tailgate is made up from two thicknesses and is added at whatever variation of open or closed you fancy, then the whole bed is fitted to the chassis on tabs and depressions to get the correct location. Back in the cab the steering wheel, searchlight with clear lens and horn are all fitted, the last two on the top of the dash, and two headlamps again with clear lenses are attached to the outside front of the cab. The area is then decorated with a multitude of grab handles, closures and two towing hooks at the front of the chassis rail. A starter handle is inserted into the front, and the cab's tilt is made up from three styrene parts with two clear portholes and it too is fitted to the cab. The cover for the cargo bed can be modelled either hidden away with just the framework visible, or with the canvas draped over for a bit of variety. The framework option is quite delicate, so care will be needed when taking the frames off the sprues to avoid breakage. There are five of them and they fit at intervals to the sides with a substantial overlap for strength. The covered parts comprise front section, two sides with the exposed parts of the frames sticking down, a rolled-up rear cover, and separate roof section. All have realistic drape and creases moulded in, and your only task is to hide the seams before you apply paint, whilst avoiding breaking off the ends of the frames that hang down. The Figures Four soldiers are supplied on one sprue with their equipment on another sprue. They are all standing with one taking a photo of the others on a box-brownie type camera, while the others walk along, only one of which is acknowledging the camera with a wave. They are broken down into separate heads, hats, torsos, legs and arms, with the arms broken down further where sensible, and the walkers each have a large kit bag that is slung over both their shoulders with rucksack type straps, and over that are their rifles, the slings for which you'll have to make yourself from foil or tape. The accessory sprue contains a plethora of weapons and accessories, most of which you either won't use or can be dotted around this and any other models of the period you may make, including battle bowlers, pistols, pouches, tools, a Lewis gun and other oddities. The instructions show the part locations for each sprue and a combined assembly and painting diagram that is covered in little arrows, with the remaining sheet showing construction of the accessories, their painting and even the names of each item on the sprue, which is very helpful. Markings There are two decal options for the truck, both of which are the same colour, olive green for the body, and khaki for the canvas areas. The sheet is small and includes a few stencils, divisional badges and a warning to carry no more than 3 tons. Conclusion A beautifully detailed kit of an early truck from WWI with the bonus of some very nicely moulded US soldiers into the bargain. Highly recommended. Available from Importers H G Hannants Ltd. In the UK Review sample courtesy of
  17. Standard B “Liberty” Series 2 WWI US Army Truck ICM 1:35 (35651) As America's war effort ramped up in 1917, there was a collective realisation that the fleet of vehicles needed to support a semi-mechanised army needed some standardisation. The Liberty truck was the solution. It was designed by the Motor Transport section of the Quartermaster Corps in cooperation with the members of the Society of Automotive Engineers. A group of leading automotive engineers was summoned to Washington in 1917 to design standardised trucks for the AEF. It took 50 men 69 days to design a 1-½ ton "A" model and the 3–5 ton "B" model. Production of the Liberty B began in the fall of 1917, and the first models were delivered to the secretary of war on 19 October. Of the almost 9,500 produced by 15 manufacturers, more than 7,500 were sent overseas. The Liberty's four-speed transmission coupled with its 52-hp engine gave the truck a top speed of about 15 miles per hour. The series 2 truck was actually a much simpler one with most of the electrical systems removed and the lamps replaced by oil ones. It had a slightly different radiator, fuel & oil systems. The Model The model arrives in a strong box with a separate top sleeve with a nice artist’s representation of the vehicle on the front. Inside, within a large poly bag, are four sprues of medium grey styrene and, in a separate poly bag, one clear sprue. On initial inspection the parts are really well moulded, clean, with no sign of flash. There are a number of moulding pips, some of which are on quite fragile looking parts, so care should be taken when removing. The sprue gates attaching items like the tilt rails are also quite heavy and I can see these parts breaking if not careful. The build starts with the chassis, with each rail being fitted fore and aft leaf springs, each of two parts. Two of the cross-members are assembled from two parts each before being fitted to one of the chassis rails, along with three other single piece cross-members followed by the other rail. The radiator is then assembled from six parts before being glued into position at the front of the chassis. The single piece front axle is then glued to the front pair of leaf springs and a further cross-member is also glued into place. The rear differential is made up from fourteen parts which include the rear drum brakes. The front bumper beam and transfer box are also assembled and glued into position along with the drive shafts and three piece front mudguards. The front wheels and single piece items with a choice of separate hub caps, the rears being made up of inner and outer wheels with separate tyres and hub caps. The completed wheels are then attached to their respective axles. Work then begins on the engine, which is made up from eleven parts. Once assembled, it is fitted to the chassis along with the two piece exhaust pipe and silencer. The gearstick is then added to the gearbox and the engine fitted with two more parts. The cabin is then assembled from twenty one parts before being fitted to the chassis over the gearstick, followed by the outer radiator grille, and two piece bonnet, which could easily be made to be posed open to show off the engine, even though it’s not moulded that way. The next assembly is the truck bed, with the bed itself being fitted with the sides, rear, and front plank sections. On the underside, five lateral strengthening beams, and the sides with four vertical beams each. Two five piece storage boxes are assembled and fitted to the front underside of the bed before the whole assembly is attached to the chassis. There is a five piece searchlight and two piece horn attached to the cabin coaming and the steering wheel is also glued into place at this point. The pair of two piece headlights are attached to the front of the cabin bulkhead, while the bonnet latches, and grab handles, plus the cabin access handles are fitted, as is the starting handle. The cabin roof is fitted with left and right hand frames before being glue into place, and on the bed the modeller has the option of just fitting the five tilt rails, or the complete canvas cover which is made up from five parts, completing the build. Decals The small decal sheet gives the modeller just two options of vehicle, both in use by the US army in 1918. The decals are nicely printed, clear and in good register with a slightly matt finish. Conclusion It’s great to finally see a WW1 Liberty tuck being kitted, and again with this series 2 vehicle. It’s not overly complicated, which is good to see, even though the truck itself was pretty simple, and would be a great kit for any level of modeller. Review sample courtesy of
  18. My daughter got me this wonderful kit for Christmas. It has re-kindled my interest in WWI aircraft. The kit's painting guide is very basic so I bought this Eduard Kit in the hope I will get a painting guide and some nice decals. Thanks for looking. Stephen
  19. Lanchester 4x2 Armoured Car Copper State Model 1/35 This is CSM's new WWI era Lanchester armoured car. It's quite a simple little kit compared to some of the armour mega-kits that come from a lot of manufacturers these days. Despite the simplicity though, it really is a joy to put together. The fit is just about perfect, and the whole thing was built up and ready for paint in only 4 days. There's some really nice example of moulding to, like the front fenders which are thin enough to almost pass for being photo etched, and the wheel spokes which are remarkably thin for an injection moulded part. There are a couple of errors in the kit. The little bump on top of the turret is a socket for a flag, and it should be closer to the turret roof hatch rather than at the front edge. Also the insides of the rear wheel arches should be panelled off, instead of being open as they are here. Neither of them are big deals though and are pretty easy to fix. CSM have a photo etch set in the works for this kit, although to be honest, I don't think it's really necessary. They do have some nice figures though which should work well for a diorama. This one's painted with Gunze RLM 65 and RLM 76 in a rough representation of Admiralty light grey Thanks for looking Andy
  20. Here's a Flashback I finished a few years ago. The color profile for this model is in the JaPo book on the Aviatik D.I & D.II page 98. The prototype photo is on 87. I used a Micron brown pen to add the numerous dot pattern and the sealed it an added the streaking.
  21. I have always been fascinated with the looks of this beast, and it was indeed a challenge to complete it. Ancient, outdated kit but with enough material to get it finished. A new softer, light gray plastic, made rear fuselage swung a bit, but I can live with it. Wings canvas structure looked cartoonish, it had to be almost sand off. Used 0.73mm fishing nylon for rigging, Front machine gun is Eduard’s excellent photoetch Scarff gun ring which sits prominently at the front of the plane and is good investment (thanks @warhawk). PC-10 green is Humbrol's Hu 163. A few in progress pics: A sofisticated 4o dihedral jig. It is quite big actually: Paper clips were use to keep rig lines tight during gluing.
  22. Group Build Dates: 21 July to 11 November 2018 --- I'm a little surprised that I haven't seen this suggested already... but, we'll be commemorating the end of the Great War in 2018, and I feel we should think about a group build, so... Land, sea and air, models of any military or support equipment or personnel used by any country involved in the Great War, 1914 to 1918. Standard Group Build rules, and No what ifs What do you think guys? {edit 12 Mar 2017} Title changed from 1918 - 2018, 100 years after the end of WWl to Eleventh Hour GB: 1918-2018, commemorating the end of WWl Thanks to TigerTony66 for suggesting the Eleventh Hour {/edit} Yes, I know it's the armistice, and the war didn't end until 1919, but ... General Theme GB Robert Stuart - host Wyverns4 - co-host Arniec Kallisti Blastvader Murdo JackG Ozzy CliffB Basilisk Wez whitestar12chris Blitz23 Jb65rams charlie_c67 PlaStix jrlx stevehed Grey Beema Sgt.Squarehead 825 TonyTiger66 Sabre_days limeypilot Bonhoff alancmlaird SleeperService stevehnz Ray S Plasto Corsairfoxfouruncle krow113 sampanzer planecrazee Peter Lloyd John D C Masters
  23. The Habsburgs' Wings 1914 Vol 1 ISBN : 9788365437792 Kagero & Company via Casemate UK When we think of the Air War of WWI we initially think of The Squadrons of The Royal Flying Corps in battles with the Jastas of Imperial German Flying Corps over the trenches of the Western Front; of the Air Craft of The Royal Naval Air Service operating against the Marineflieger. WWI through was just as the name suggest a World War and the Air War was carried on in many different places. One such forgotten front in aviation terms was the Eastern front, and in particular the Balkans. This book aims to re-address this by looking at Austro-Hungarian Aviation in the Great War. Volume 1 will look at the first Campaigns of WWII. The Book looks at The Birth of the Austro-Hungarian Air Force, and the Order of Battle of military aviation of Austro-Hungary in 1914. It is A5 Hardback in format with 154 pages. There are many black and white photographs of the period along with some colour ones of paintings and the present day geography. Conclusion This publication brings the untold story of early Austro-Hungarian Air operations to light, something which many of us probably have never even heard of. The text is well written and there are plenty of photographs in the book many of which have probably never been seen before. Highly recommended to the WWI fan, and fans of the early days of aviation alike. We await with interest to see what Vol 2 brings. Review sample courtesy of
  24. Hi all, After the lessons learned posts on the Albatros DV and the Siemens-Schuckert DIII, it’s now time for the third and final one of my past builds: The Albatros DI of Otto Höhne by Roden, in 1/72 scale. The Albatros DI was the first of the famous line of Albatros Scouts, designed by Robert Thelen in 1916. Thelen was the chief designer at Albatros, and responsible for many Albatros designs. I chose to build the machine of Otto Höhne of Jasta 2, 1916. Whilst Höhne did not accumulate the impressive number of victories as some of the famous aces of WWI (he had 6 victories credited to him by the end of the war), he was the first fighter pilot to score a victory with an Albatros scout. Here’s an excerpt mentioning Höhne from the Osprey Duel 55 Fe 2b-d vs Albatros Scouts “The many duels between FE 2s and Albatros scouts began upon the frontline arrival of the new Albatros D I scout in 1916, which coincided with Germany’s premier ace Oswald Boelcke forming Jagdstaffel 2. A new and permanent unit type, Jagdstaffeln were born from the reformation of temporary Kampfeinsitzer-Kommandos (KeK, or fighting single-seater commands) that were dedicated to aerial interdiction following their equipment with single-seater scouts. Yet for weeks Jasta 2 was burdened with just a smattering of Fokker and Halberstadt D machines, rather than a full complement of Albatros’s new twin-gunned fighter, although Offz Stv Leopold Reimann arrived from Jasta 1 in late August and brought one of the new pre-production Albatros D Is with him. Boelcke used this meagre ‘fleet’ for training during the first half of September, but on the 16th – the day Jasta 2 finally received its first allotment of Albatros D Is, as well as its D II prototype for Boelcke – he led some of his pilots aloft. At 1800 hrs Ltn Otto Höhne shot down his and Jasta 2’s first FE 2b (6999 of No. 11 Sqn).” And here is a beautiful picture of Otto Höhnes Albatros DI D 390/16 in flight: The Roden Kit is of good quality and detail, and part of a big series of Albatros kits, therefore offering many options for different types and sub-types. This versatility does not come without disadvantages though. The top wing is split in three sections, and assembling a perfectly straight wing profile is not straightforward. In addition, the forward fuselage needs quite a bit of work to, but the end result can look accurate. Things I wanted to try with this kit Despite the good finish achieved with the airbrush in my previous kit, my lazy nature made me try once again if I can create a good finish just with brushes, avoiding the dreaded airbrush The completed model The lessons learned whilst building this particular kit I can’t create a good finish without an airbrush. Shouldn’t try again! I built this kit without having access to the original pictures. Knowing them now, I believe the wood varnish on the fuselage is probably a bit too bright, and could maybe be a bit darker I should not apply rigging by making a knot around the struts with the thread, but only use through-holes instead The colours of the wings may be inaccurate, as some early Albatros had a three-color scheme for the wings Super-glue creates a grey dusty coat around the areas it is applied to. Maybe avoid using super glue when possible The top wing is not perfectly straight. Should have used a rig when assembling it from the three pieces The finish I chose seems a bit too matte, and should be silkier Building a kit with photographic documentation from the start is more satisfying than building one where the paint scheme is largely based on assumptions or box instructions only This was the last of my youth-builds, and hopefully, I can share my first adult builds this year. Whether they will be any better than my past builds, or much worse, remains to be seen Best regards, Rob
  25. British (1917) & American (1918) Infantry in Gas Masks (35703 & 35704) 1:35 ICM Gas attacks during WWI were a constant danger to both sides of the trenches, and many men were killed or maimed horribly during the conflict, which necessitated all soldiers carrying a gas mask with them whenever they were at the front. This still didn't mean you were 100% safe, as my paternal Grandfather found out when he was mustard gassed at one of the many battles he was involved with. He recovered sufficiently, but I don't doubt that it shortened his life somewhat. The Allied gas masks were broadly similar (in fact my parents still have my Grandad's somewhere), with circular glazed eyeholes and a concertina hose that led to the filter box that was carried in a bag usually resting on the wearer's chest. They were effective, but must have restricted their situational awareness something rotten, and been horribly claustrophobic to wear for any length of time. The Kits Both sets arrive in top-opening figure sized boxes with the usual ICM inner lid that is captive to the tray. Inside are three sprues of varying sizes in sand coloured styrene, a glossy instruction sheet, and a matt painting and sprue guide. British Infantry in Gas Masks (1917) 35703 This set has four figures in various stances, giving the impression that they are advancing on the enemy. Three of the men are carrying rifles with bayonets fixed, which backs that up, and the fourth is holding his Webley revolver out in front, with an (ever-so useful) Swagger Stick in his left hand. They are all dressed in standard British uniforms with boots and puttees wrapped around their lower legs. The officer figure is less burdened by equipment, carrying only leather binocular case and holster, while the troops are weighed down by ammo pouches and assorted kit bags on their webbing. Each sports a battle bowler and their gas mask, which is moulded into the front parts of the head, with the rear a separate part from a separate sprue. The original heads can be seen attached to the main body parts, which also include separate legs, torsos and arms. All the weapons, pouches and head gear are separate parts on the other large sprue, with the gas masks and bags on the third smaller sprue. US Infantry in Gas Masks (1918) 35704 The four figures in this set are also going over the top, and are more animated than their reserved British counterparts, with dynamic poses even for the officer. Bayonets are fixed for the men, while the officer has his 1911 pistol out and a wide stance. Their dress is very similar to the British, and without studying the weapons and webbing, they could easily be mistaken for Tommies, but as you would expect the enlisted men have more equipment than the officer, although he does add a map case and canteen to his webbing. The gas masks are again moulded to the front of the head with a separate rear, and the filter bags are thinner and deeper, while the battle bowlers are pretty much identical to their allies. The officer is further distinguished from the men by his wearing of knee-length lace-up boots, while the others wear puttees wrapped around their lower legs. Again, the original heads are found on the main sprue alongside separate legs, torsos, arms and some of the larger packs. Conclusion Both sets offer a good choice of soldiers for diorama purposes, and the poses are different enough to add some action in use. As well as the suggested weapons as per the instructions, there are a large number of additional weapons of various types to give you customisation possibilities. As usual with ICM, their sculpting is crisp and realistic, with good definition between smocks, buttons, straps etc. Couple these with the German Infantry in Gas Masks we reveiwed recently, and you have the beginnings of a battle. Very highly recommended. Available from all good modelshops both on the high street and online. Review sample courtesy of
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