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  1. Bf110E-2 Tropical 1:48 Dragon / Cyber Hobby - Master Series The Messerschmitt Bf110 was designed to fulfil a German Air Ministry requirement for a long-range, twin-engined fighter aircraft, or zerstörer which was issued back in 1934. Following the prototypes first flight in 1936, it beat off competing designs from Arado, Focke-Wulf and Henschel and was in service by the time war broke out three years later. Fitted with the same engines as the Bf 109E, the Bf 110 was a powerful aircraft and was very well armed in comparison to its counterparts. Despite early successes in Poland, the inadequacy of the Bf 110 as an out-and-out fighter was exposed by the RAF during the Battle of Britain. Heavy losses resulted, mainly as a result of the aircrafts lack of manoeuvrability. This aspect of the design was not improved to any degree in later versions, and for this reason the Bf 110 found itself increasingly utilised in other roles such as fighter bomber. The aircraft performed this role well in the North African campaign. The E models were mainly fighter bombers, the had a strengthened able to carry a bomb load of up to 1200 Kgs and featured extra bomb racks outboard of the main engines. The E-2 was fitted with DB601P engines and featured the same fuselage extension as the D-3 The Kit This kit is a variation on the earlier versions that Dragon has released since 2008, but this time its in their Cyberhobby range. The kit arrives in a sturdy box, upon opening you are struck by the sheer amount of plastic which seems to be packed in there. There are 15 sprues of light grey plastic, a clear sprue, and a small phot-etched fret. It's clear from the sprues that they have been designed in such a way to extract the maximum number of 110 variants from a common core of sprues, however there are not that many parts in this box which will not be used. The instruction sheet is large than normal giving the modeller bigger diagrams which are clearer to read. There seems to be a lot of detail in this kit with some intricate build steps. Most of the detail for the cockpit areas will be seen under the large canopy, however detail in the nose gunbay and other areas is a bit strange as there are no removable panels supplied in the kit? Like most aircraft the build begins with the cockpit assembly. Construction of the pilots seat is first and this is made up of the seat and two supports, with the left hand support featuring the seat adjustment handle moulded in place. The etched seat belts are then fitted and adjusted to shape. The main instrument panel is fitted with the gun-sight and small selector box and attached to the main cockpit floor, along with the rudder pedals, joystick, throttle quadrant to the left and side console the right. To the rear of the floor there is a large spent cartridge bin for the rear machine gun. The rear bulkhead is fitted with the spare ammunition drums for the rear machine gun, whilst the central framework is fitted with the radio panels and spare 20mm ammunition drums. There is a panel that fits in a trough just behind the pilots seat, this is the mounting panel for the 20mm cannon, two of which are fitted on the underside, whilst the ammunition drums, air bottles, radio operators seat and associated frame are fitted to the topside. These subassemblies are then fitted to their respective positions on the cockpit floor, followed by the side walls. The upper cockpit frame is then assembled from the main shoulder height frame, upper frame over the radio section, auxiliary instruments over the radios and the rear machine gun at its mounting plate. The completed framework is then fitted to the cockpit assembly and the whole cockpit glued into one half of the fuselage which can then be closed up. The nose gun mounting is assembled and the two machine guns fitted along with their ammunition belt runs before being slid into the single piece nose cone. This seems to be a bit of a waste as none of this detail will be seen unless the access panels in the nose section are carefully removed. The numerous sections of the cockpit greenhouse are then attached (or the modeller can use the one part canopy). With the fuselage closed up, the single piece centre wing spars complete with extra cannon bay detail is attached and covered with the fuselage centre panel, thus again covering all the detail previously fitted. Whilst the fuselage is upside down the PE DF aerial and styrene HF aerials are glued into position. The build moves onto the two DB 601 engines. These begin with the assembly of the main block which comes in two halves onto which the cylinder head and two cam covers are attached. Onto this main block the ignition harness, engine bearers, turbocharger assembly, oil tank and pipework are fitted. The undercarriage is the assembled, with the main units made up of the oleo, scissor link, retraction jack and support framework. The main tires are in two halves to which the separate inner and outer hubs, also in two parts are fitted. The upper cowling is fitted with the oil cooler intake, the exhaust stacks and their fairings are assembled and the main undercarriage bays are assembled from the firewall and roof sections, and completed with a selection of pipework and fittings. The exhaust stacks are then attached to the engine assemblies which are then fitted to the firewalls and the main undercarriage fitted to their bays. Before the radiator housing can be fitted to the lower cowling a large section must be cut out. The separate upper cowlings can be fitted, or left off to show off the engines. The instructions move onto the wings and the assembly of the underwing radiators which are made up of five parts then attached to the lower wing panels. The main wheel bays are detailed with internal frames after which the wheel bay doors are attached. The engine/undercarriage sub-assemblies are fitted to the lower wings followed by the upper wing sections, wing tips, leading edge intake scoops and landing lights. The flaps can be positioned in either the raised of lowered positions. The propellers are assembled by fitting the three separate blades to the hub, which is then attached to the backplate and finished off with the spinner. The modeller has a choice of whether to fit the two drop tanks or two pairs of bombs and their respective racks. The completed wings are then slid onto wing spars on the fuselage and glued into place. The final section is the assembly of the tailplane with the two halves of the vertical fins joined together then attached to the horizontal tailplane which comes as a single piece upper and two lower sections. In the centre of the lower section the tailwheel bay is attached then fitted with the tailwheel, made up of two wheel halves and single piece oleo, then the bay is completed with the addition of the bay doors. The completed tailplane is then attached to the rear of the fuselage thus completing the build. Canopy The clear parts are thin and free from distortion. A complex mulitpart canopy is supplied which can be modelled open; or the modeller can chose a one part canopy which will make things easier but be closed. Phot Etch A small photo etch fret is supplied which contains the seat belts, and radiator parts, along with two loop aerials. Decals Decals are supplied for three aircraft. All feature the RLM79 over RLM78 scheme. They are printed by Cartograf so should pose no problems. 8./ZG 26 - North Africa 1942 7./ZG 26 - Italy 1941 7./ZG 26 - Libya 1942 Conclusion This is an impressive kit from Dragon. The parts build is fairly high with some great detail. Like other boxings of this kit in other scales it is puzzling as some of the detail will not be seen. The modeller though could if they wished with some care expose this. Overall the kit is recommended. Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  2. Hello all, here's a build log of Revell's reboxing of Cyber Hobby's much maligned Sea Vixen kit. It's one of the first kits I picked up on returning to the hobby, ticking the boxes of being a favourite aircraft in a modern tooling that by all accounts builds beautifully. Also, wanting to try as broad a range of of different manufacturers, the dragon/CH style was something I was keen to check out. Of course that was before I saw how unfavoured it was for its many accuracy issues; but undaunted, I thought I'd plough on regardless with my fingers in my ears and hopefully still achieve something totally OOB that looked sufficiently Sea Vixeny on the shelf, while having a lovely easy time doing it. That didn't quite go to plan however! Having a fondess for carrier borne FAA aircraft, I tend to build them wings up if I can. I shows off the uniquely naval character of the design, and has the added bonus of saving some of the the little space I have. That was the plan with this one until I acquired a copy of Airfix's 1/48 kit. That will certainly require a wings-up build, so for variety and to show of the the lovely profile of the type, I thought I'd instead build this one wings out, everything down in landing configuration. This gives me a lot more freedom to be very lazy on the internal detail! Of course it also means building the canopy closed which (as you can see from the box art) has a dodgy kink in it that I was hoping to hide by posing it open, but you can't win them all. Further to differentiate the two, I thought it would be nice to build one as a FAW1, which has nicer lines to my eye. The Revell kit is in a much better position to make this conversion, since the CH tool has the FAW1 wing boom shape moulded into the wings, with the FAW2 shoulder extensions added on an additional runner. There will of course be numerous other changes that need making, but I'm going to be lazy try not to make too big a deal about it. So we'll call it a FAW1.5. https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/2/6/8/1316268-12741-89-720.jpg I've actually been nibbling away at this one for months, a tiny bit at a time, but finally it's moved up on the build list to get a little more attention, so this first post will be something of a catch up. Apologies for the lack of pictures, I haven't really been documenting it much. Inital pokes at the cockpit showed it to be very much an abstraction of the real thing. One of the quirkier aspects of the aircraft is of course the side by side seating arrangement. The kit has no opening between the two, so I started by cutting out the gap between the detail. On breaking through to the other side, you realise that nothing really lines up. The seats too, are bizarrely way out of size (apparently 1/100 scale). It's probably a good thing that I changed my mind and decided not to pose the two cockpits open then. In the end I poked around with a knife, added a nice Barracuda resin Martin Baker seat for the pilot (in my stingyness, I decided to keep the 2nd one in the pack for a future build, since the observer side will be all but invisible), and ended up with this. You can see how out of size the kit seats are... The pilot's didn't even protrude above the fuselage. It's all going to be invisible, so I really haven't laboured the point much as you can see. It seems to have taken an aged to finally close up the fuselage. The main sticking points (aside from the above) have been the modification of the observer's cockpit bubble from FAW2 to FAW1 and the addition of nose weight. On the former, the bubble filed down fairly easily, but then came the decision on how to fill it. I was originally going to try with CA and talc, but then realised that clear runner included the hood for CH's FAW1 kit as well. However, this turns out to be a rather bizarre shape: A fair amount of modification of both the clear part and the fuselage yielded this: Now of course one only has to look at the real thing to see that this is off quite significantly, but seeing as there's a ridge to mark the window moulded into the part, it would require some delicate sanding an re-polishing to correct. So, in the spirit of not getting too bogged down, I left it there and blundered on. Masked and underpainted in black, hopefully the effort to fit the clear part will yield a slightly better look. The hole on the pilot's side has come back a bit to make space for the larger seat, but there's not whole lot of space under the hood. Incidentally, you can see some dimples around the area, which unusually mate up with stubs in the canopy pieces. Clearly, the model is not designed to have the cockpit posed open, despite being in two pieces. Now for noseweight. I am slightly tempted to leave it out entirely, since with a bit of stiffness in the lowered tailhook, I may be able to just let it flop into a 'just touched down' pose; but somehow I felt obliged to do my due dilligence. The instructions ask for an entirely unrealistic 25g in the nosecone, which filled with lead shot, can only hold 10g. I assume they mean total of 25g wherever you can fit it. In any case, once pointed out, I couldn't see past the rather dodgy kit nose shape. It's bit like Gandalf's in that respect! So out with an Aires quickboost replacement, and some rejigging of the calcs. The heavier resin nose doesn't help actually; since it only adds about 4.5g at the furthest point, where you might otherwise fit 10. A guestimate of the position of the (forward canted) rear wheels and some quick testing of how much lead split shot would fit into each cavity suggests that 25g in the nose equates to about 33g elsewhere: In the end, there's lead shot and PVA all under the cockpit, and up the rear firewall, and more to come in the cavity behind the nosecone. Given I've based my calcs on requiring all of the 25g in the nosecone (which seems basically impossible), I think that should probably be way more than enough. Famous last words! So there we are, fuselage and wings all buttoned up (the fit throughout has been really excellent actually) and various bits of grey and metallic painted in all the appropriate internal bits, hopefully we're not a million miles away from paint! Hopefully more progress in the not-too-distant future. Thanks for looking in! Please feel free to let me know what modifications to FAW1 or (relatively low effort) remedies to CH's errors that I have missed! Cheers, Andy
  3. Just for a bit of fun and a break from a lengthy ongoing project I liberated this diminutive 1/200 scale Vulcan from my stash. Whilst it’s probably not the best Vulcan kit on the market, it does scrub up to make a fair representation of XM607, the scourge of Islas Malvinas. Paints are Tamiya acrylics with Humbrol clear lacquers with home made oil washes, and the stand is made by Gemini Jets. It’s built out of the box with no modifications (except opening out the four jet pipes to make them much thinner). I think that’s a first for me!
  4. The de Havilland Vampire has always been my favourite early jet. First flown in September 1943 (5 months before the Soviet La-7, half a year before the Japanese Ki-102 and 15 months before the He 162) she should be called a wartime design. And if she wasn’t British she would be a true WW2 fighter – unfortunately the RAF had huge numbers of already proven „430+ mph” fighters to list just the Mustang, Tempest and Griffon-Spitfires, while development of another British jet – the Meteor – was six months ahead of the „crab”. Thus the plywood-clad twin-boom marvel became the Cold War era fighter. For many years the only 72nd scale kit of this most successful British - and West European - jet (some 4.500 built, or nearly 6.000 including the Venom, whose prototype was called Vampire FB.8) was the FROG F217F, that appeared in 1971 and since 1978 (after the FROG sad demise) was available under the Soviet NOVO label. Although in my youth I have built dozens of FROG/NOVO kits their F217F (later F431) is still unknown for my eyes and hands, so I can only believe it at least looked like the Vampire. Several pictures available do prove it does. Next Vampire kit in the gentleman’s scale was Heller 80283 that appeared in 1979. Although still featuring raised (and few engraved) panel lines it had ribbed undercarriage bays. The box contained 41 parts (FROG had 36) and for next 30 years this was „the kit” used by the modellers all over the world to represent the Vampire. In this period it has been also reboxed by several other manufacturers, including Revell (since 1991) and Airfix (since 1998) as the most important ones. In 2006 there appeared super-detailed resin-cast Vampires from Czech Master Resin. IIRC more than a dozen of boxes are available, including the Mk I, the Sea Vampire, the NF, the Trainer and the Venoms. Every one contains some 50-60 resin parts, a vac-formed canopy, a coloured PE fret of 30+ details and an Eduard pre-cut mask. Unfortunately their prices (some £ 27 in my country) make such high-tech kits unavailable for my wallet. And perhaps for most of us… And then the horn of plenty gave us three brand new Vampire kits in just five years. They were the Ukrainian Amodel (in 2010), the Chinese (Dragon) Cyber Hobby in 2013 and – finally – the Czech CMK (labelled as Azur, Xtrakit and Special Hobby) in 2014. All of them feature engraved detailing, plenty of parts (almost 50 in Dragon, 60 in Amodel and 70 in CMK box) and various inbox reviews call each of them beautiful (if not splendid). Really each of them look like a Vampire… until you place two of them side by side. So the problem appears: which Vampire kit in 72nd scale is the best dimensionally- and shape-wise, as the details of all “new tool” trio are at least acceptable and their prices (£9 for CMK and £10 for Amodel) are not very high when compared to £6 for the Airfix (£8 for Revell) boxing of the ancient Heller kit. At some £19 the Cyber Hobby kit is far more expensive, while not far better. Fortunately I have the opportunity to measure the real bird (a Swiss-built FB.6) at the Polish Aviation Museum where I’ve been working between 1987 and 2014. So I took 21 various dimensions of the original, scaled them down and then measured the kits. The results are very interesting, although one can even call them horrible. It’s incomprehensible – for me at least – why can’t the 21st century kit manufacturer replicate faithfully the real plane, using instead various drawings that are far from reality. Measuring the real craft and making new drawings is far cheaper than NCM-cutting the moulds. And then we – thousands of modellers worldwide – have to use our skills to make a Vampire look like the Vampire… Full size dimensions are given in centimeters, the rest - in milimeters. Abbreviations stand for: R - real FB.5, S - scaled to 1:72, A - Amodel, C - CMK, D - Dragon Cyber Hobby, H - Heller/Revell/Airfix (FB.5) Fuselage length overall (FB.5) R610 S84.7 A81.8 C83.8 D80.8 H81.4 Sliding canopy length R122 S16.9 A18.3 C18.5 D17.8 H17.0 End of canopy to the top of nose bulkhead R192 S26.7 A26.9 C27.6 D26.3 H25.2 End of canopy to the bottom of nose bulkhead R203 S28.2 A28.5 C29.0 D28.1 H27.0 End of canopy to the tip of nose R278 S38.6 A37.2 C38.5 D37.2 H35.0 End of canopy to fuselage joint frame R105 S14.6 A13.4 C12.3 D12.4 H14.1 End of canopy to tailpipe R332 S46.1 A44.6 C45.3 D43.6 H46.4 Half of wing span R579 S80.4 A79.0 C79.9 D77.8 H79.5 Fuselage centreline to aileron inner edge R324 S45.0 A42.8 C43.4 D41.9 H43.8 Fuselage centreline to main u/c bay outer edge R262 S36.4 A34.5 C35.6 D34.7 H36.7 Fuselage centreline to flap outer edge R250 S34.7 A33.0 C33.7 D32.9 H33.0 Fuselage centreline to tailboom centreline R149 S20.7 A20.0 C20.2 D19.6 H19.3 Wing chord at aileron outer edge R99 S13.7 A13.9 C14.0 D13.0 H13.5 Wing chord at aileron inner edge R194 S26.9 A29.0 C29.1 D26.8 H25.9 Wing chord at main u/c bay outer edge R231 S32.1 A33.0 C32.3 D30.6 H30.4 Wing chord at tailboom centreline R265 S36.8 A40.5 C39.6 D38.2 H37.0 Tailboom insert into wing R190 S26.4 A26.0 C26.8 D24.4 H24.8 Tailboom length aft of joint R412 S57.2 A55.0 C56.0 D54.5 H57.4 Tailplane span (between fairings) R282 S39.1 A38.6 C38.8 D37.8 H36.8 Horizontal stabilizer chord R77 S10.7 A10.5 C12.0 D10.0 H10.6 Elevator chord R41 S5.7 A5.5 C5.8 D5.4 H5.8 So the results are: every fuselage is too short (I know that Swiss FB.6 pointed nose is longer) with CMK being the only close. Every canopy is too long with Heller being the only close – but this is easy to correct. Fuselage panel lines are wrong in each case with differences reaching 3.5 mm in scale (10” on real bird). All the wings are too short with CMK being AGAIN the only close. Same applies to the gap between the tailbooms. Chordwise Heller and Dragon wings are too narrow, while Amodel and CMK are too wide (which is easier to correct). Shape-wise only the Heller wing outline is close to real thing with aspect ratio (span to mid-span chord ratio) of 5.97:1 (a bit too slim ) compared to 5.72 in Dragon, 5.56 in CMK and 5.44 in Amodel – the original features 5.88:1. The difference in tailplane chord “by Dragon” and “by CMK” is 15% - funny, isn’t it? Using just the main dimensions (wing span and overall length) all kits are undersized with CMK being the only close (1:72.7), followed by Heller (1:73.2), Amodel (1:73.9) and Dragon (1:74.9). I made several pictures of wings, tailplanes, tailbooms and fuselage nacelles scanned from the real moulds. However it's impossible to compare the fuselage nacelle, as the CMK and Dragon kits feature horizontal split, while in Amodel and Heller there are port and starboard halves. Being unable to measure the real bird fuselage maximum diameter I can only add, that in the kits featured it varies from 16.5 mm in Cyber Hobby through some 18 mm in Heller and CMK to 19.0 mm in Amodel. Though being very difficult to correct it remains an oddity here… Happy modelling!
  5. Hello modeling friends. I think its more than 30 years ago I build an Opel Blitz and it was also my last. The fit of the Italeri kit was so bad, I never bought an Opel Blitz again. So after many many years a Dragon kit caught my eye. I bought it for my stash, it wasn't cheap and I don't see them that much, so lucky me. Quick peep in the box made me a very happy guy (the details - oh my god). Two months ago Hannants Special Offerings shows the Cyber Hobby Opel Blitz kit are on sale. It is in fact the same kit, except the Dragon has more options inside the box. More about that later. I took the advantage and bought two kits for the prize of one Dragon. Another great shot for my stash. Box Art Dragon & Cyber Hobby Box Art may differ a lot, inside the boxes Dragon gives some options to choose from. 6 hole rims vs 8 hole rims and the low & high side boards for the cargo bed. Cyber Hobby offers only low side boards and 6 hole rims, which are in fact commercial / civilian type rims. The 8 hole rims Opel Blitz are special builds for the Wehrmacht. Why building 2 trucks at the same time? I want them to look the same, same colors and weathering, same theater and company to serve for. The cargo beds are interesting because of the outstanding details and I want the sides in open position for loading / unloading. After I finished the AA campaign last week, I started with the 2cm 38 Flak from the Dragon kit, just for fun, sort of 'after party'. A very nice a detailed gun, but I don't want the gun in the back of a truck. Together with the platform it will be on display in my vitrine, waiting for its destiny. Then I opened Britmodeler to look for news, builds, my favorite build logs and I saw someone building the Tamiya Opel Blitz kit with a nice tittle for a build log: "Workhorse of the Reich - The Opel Blitz". Following along and having some conversation about the kit, I had to start my own kits. Steve came up with a nice suggestion, start a build log, just for comparison and link that into my build log, should be fun. Well I agreed so here it is Steve aka Big X - A build log for comparison. A lot of work has been done already, it has some primer a the chassis has a base color sprayed on. More to come very soon I need to organize some photos and pick up a story line. Robert Jan
  6. HGW is to edit a limited edition from the Cyber Hobby 1/32nd Messerschmitt Bf.109E-3/E-4/E-7 kit with transferless decals and a lot of accessories - ref. Source: https://www.facebook.com/artscale.eu/posts/2349740855120765 V.P.
  7. Well - this time I'll try to follow suite and post most of the finished model pictures here. You can follow the build here: Comments are welcomed Ran
  8. An now for something completely different. The is progressing and the is DONE. So ... what next? What could be different then a WWII Bomber in 1/48?? TA DA: A Falkland era, Helicopter in 1/72 . While gearing up to start - I've noticed the instructions of this 1/72 lack almost all paint call outs of the internal parts. Looked around and found the instructions for the 1/48 Hasegawa Sea King kit ( 1999.jp.co site) and will use these for paint call out. That's it for today. Ran
  9. Hi chaps. I'm building the 72nd scale cyber hobbies sea vixen faw.1 . I'm ready to button up the fuselage, but I need to sort out the intake trunking first. The instructions are rubbish, and apart from a colour call out on the Cockpit (black), there are absolutely no other references made. I've looked on Google, and the walk round section on here, but can't find any images of the intakes. What colour were they painted? All the images I can find of the faw.1 have fod covers in place, and any others are of faw.2 aircraft. Would it be safe to assume the faw.1 are the same as the faw.2? The faw.2 look to have a lip of esdg at the entry, then seem to be black down the the compressor face. Is this correct? Any help or guidance would be appreciated. Thank you. Matt
  10. My chosen model is the Cyber Hobby Messerschmitt Bf 109 E-3 kit in the markings of the 21st Squadron (Fliegerkompanie 21) of the Swiss Air Force (Schweizer Fliegertruppe). The picture was taken during Summer 1940 at Emmen Air Base. J-377 has the large fuselage Swiss cross introduced in April 1940, but still the roundels under the wings from when the aircraft was delivered (J-313 behind it has the square underwing wakings introduced at the same time as the fuselage markings). J-377 was taken off charge on 28 December 1949 together with all the other remaining Me 109 DBs. Before you get stuck into me about the title, which you think should be Bf 109 E-3, the Emil was known in Switzerland as Me 109 DB and was so mentioned in official documents! And the Doras purchased at the same time were Me 109 Jumo ... Switzerland was the largest export customer of the Emil with a purchase of 80 aircraft, purchased in two lots of 30 and 50 aircraft between Mai 1939 and April 1940, produced at the "Werk Regensburg" (and an additional 9 built from spare parts later). I always wanted to build a Swiss 109 E, but never thought doing it in the large scale. Should be a straight forward build I thought, but reading Georg Hoch's excellent book on the Swiss Messerschmitt 109s (also published in English by Schiffer) made it clear that it will be far from a straight forward build! Why you may ask. well the Swiss purchased the Emils without any weapons and radios! The idea behind that was to fit locally manufactured weapons and radios. In addition, the gun sight was a Revi 3c , the fitted control stick was a KG 11 which was similar to British control sticks and the seat Harness was attached in a different way for whatever reason as well... In a 1/72 scale model. these details are hardly noticeable, but not so in 1/32. The story on the purchase of the Messerschmitt fighters is fascinating and I highly recommend to read Georg Hoch's book which is a great read filled with anecdotes on the Me 109 operation in Switzerland. The following information is from this book: When purchasing the DBs, it was undecided what weapon configuration to use on the unarmed aircraft. At the end it was decided to use two 7.45 mm Fl MG 29 with 960 rounds above the engine and one 20 mm FF-K Oerlikon with 60 rounds in each wing. Compared to the armament installed in German Bf 109E-3 consisting of two 7.92 mm MG 17 with 2000 rounds and one 20mm MG FF in each wing, the Swiss weapons have to be seen as a step back. They also needed several modifications on the airframe to be fitted and had to be loaded manually and not electro-pneumatic as was the case with the German weapons. The Fl MG 29 had been mounted without any off-set and closer together (300 mm compared to 340 mm) which needed modifications of the engine cover and a new ammunition storage and feed which resulted in reduced ammunition by over half compared to the German arrangement. In regards to the radio equipment, it was planed to fit a French radio produced under license in Switzerland. But production got delayed due to France being occupied by Germany. The radio became finally available in limited quantities by the end of 1941, but its performance was poor. Three Flieger Kompannien received the new Me 109 DB in 1939 and Fliegerkompanie 21 was one of them. Originally no special markings had been painted onto the new aircraft. During the war in France, it became o common occurrence that German aircraft flew into Swiss airspace, resulting in several aerial combats with Swiss aircraft including the 109s. The first German aircraft, a Heinkel He 111 was shot down on 10th of May and several more followed until early June. Under the pressure from the German government, the Swiss Air Force stoped attacking intruding aircraft there after. This resulted in very low spirit of the Swiss flying personnel. To lift the spirit, it was decided that it is now acceptable that the Fliegerkompanien are decorating their aircraft with the squadron markings - which was a sharkmouth for Fliegerkompanie 21. Enough about the history. I began this build over Easter - completely forgetting about this STGB coming up , but the progress is well below the 25% mark. The Cyber Hobby kit is apparently the most accurate 109 E in 1/32. As I love accessories I got a few too. My plan is to build the model with the engine covered, but incorporating all the modifications the Swiss aircraft had at the time the picture was taken in Summer 1940. But first some riveting was in place as the Cyber Hobby cit looks a bit bare when it comes to rivets - strangely there are some on the kit here and there. I used some drawings to mark where the rivets go. Some pictures are helpful too. Rosie the Riveter does most of the work. And it does make a difference - braking down the monotony of the large surface. The fuselage was next. And several days later, It was all done. Strangely, Cyber Hobby has positive rivets at several places where there shouldn't be any. The cockpit of the Swiss 109 E has some noticeable differences of which most are on the Instrument panel Most of the changes circled in red are for the weapons - Top to bottom, two pulleys to arm the two Fl MG 29. Don't know what the handle is at the right. Below is the FF-K cannon selection switch and the ammunition counter. Also note the KG 11 control stick I wanted to incorporate these changes on this build which needed a bit of scratch building. And all together. I also made the KG 11 control stick by using a CMK resin control stick intended for the Hawker Tempest. It was a reasonable starting point, but some modifications where needed. Not perfect, but close enough. That is where I am at the moment. Cheers, Peter
  11. In contrast to the GWH Victor kit I built earlier, this was a little bugger to put together. It was much older designed kit with lots of fit issues and the props were a nightmare as they broke as soon as you touched them. However I thought it would make a good East vs West picture with the Victor.
  12. I WILL START THIS GB..... I WILL START THIS AND COMPLETE THIS GB OK ill try. I'll start off with the F.1 from Cyber Hobby then the Mk.3 and work my way up the variants as I have various Mk.4s (Revell), and 8's (airfix/mpm), NF's and T variants. So this could be a long build. Just need to complete my other BOB builds first and then the KUTA and all other GB's , just need more time to build. Box shots and progress to follow.
  13. Kit manufacture: Cyber Hobby Scale: 1/200 Type: Avro Vulcan B.2 Extras used: None, completely OOB Paints and colours used: Tamiya Acrylics, XF-1 Black (pre shading only), XF-2 Flat White, XF-81 Dark Green, XF-83 Medium Sea Grey, XF-85 Rubber Black (all black work), X-18 Semi Gloss Black (Landing gear struts), XF-57 Buff (pre and post shading white), X-2 Gloss White (Blue Steel), Vallejo RLM green on tail (can't remember exactly which one), Mr Metal Color Dark Iron (fan blades, jet exhaust), Flory Grime wash (over white) and Flory Dark Dirt, Alclad Aqua Gloss (decal prep) and Hannants Satin Varnish (finish). Other info: Full build is here : http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234969240-cyber-hobby-1200-avro-vulcan-b2/page-1 Background waffle... My grandad was a Lancaster (and other) pilot during the war serving with bomber command. He also flew with Air and Sea Rescue and was very proud of the work he did during the Berlin airlift. After this he left the RAF to own a farm, thus ending our families ties with the RAF. However, my Dad always loved aircraft and transferred that enthusiasm to me. When I was a kid, we would regularly take family trips to Duxford for the airshows. During the mid-late 80s (I think) when I would have been 5-7 years old, we arrived late to the show due to a traffic jam and the car overheating. By the time the we parked in the overflow car park, the Vulcan was already tearing through the skies, her engines shaking the ground, setting off car alarms. I was terrified! Apparently I jumped back in the car for cover! She was the star of the show. Knowing time is running out to see the Vulcan fly, Dad and I went to Waddington airshow last year to see her. She was undoubtedly still the star. The engine howl on spool up and nibble leap into the air was exactly how I remember. She would look less out of place in a Star Trek movie than the skies of Britain! I LOVE this aircraft! The Kit Right, enough of that. I chose the Cyber Hobby kit for two reasons: 1. It was £9.99 in the sale at Hannants and 2. I'm waiting for Airfix or someone else to retool a 1/72 modern version, packed with detail! Build was straight forward on the whole; a bit of filler here and there and I packed out the panel to take the Blue Steel as this was a poor fit. Other than that, the fit was excellent. The detail is great in this kit! It even has a cockpit with seats and pilots, not that you'll be able to see them after it's finished. Decals are great too. I masked originally by blowing up the instructions to the size of the model and using a craft knife to cut through the instructions and tamiya tape. It didn't work great and the camo edges were very rough. I remasked most of it using Jammy Dog tape which is how I'd do it all next time. And there we have it! A great kit, go and get one! Val
  14. Well, since my Harrier is off the bench, I'm going to start another "quick" (LOL) build. It is to be the magnificent Vulcan B.2, as inspired by Rob our resident Vulcan nut Sprues: She's going to be finished in Green/Grey camo, with white underside, and a massive Blue Steel nuclear missile! I'll probably get on to starting her at the weekend, if not before Val
  15. Just like with its 1/32nd kit (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234947836-132-messerschmitt-bf110e-2-trop-by-dragon-released/), Dragon is to release very soon (August 2014), in its Wing Tech/Master Series, a 1/48th Messerschmitt Bf.110E-2 Tropical kit - ref.5560. Source: http://dragon-models.com/d-m-item.asp?pid=CHC5560# V.P.
  16. Afternoon folks - I am have a busy week finishing off kits and this one I finished this morning. Its the first Cyber Hobby I've done and I think its great. The only slight issue is that I did't put enough weight up front so its a tail sitter which is damn frustrating! You will see at the back I have put some sprue under the tail to keep the nose on the ground! So I really enjoyed this kit although I found it bizarre that the instructions just seem to leave out certain stages - whats all that about!? I used Xtracolor Xtra Dark Sea Grey for the upper sides and Tamiya Sky for the undersides and the kit decals which were fine. I am surprised how much I like it in 1:72 - I once did the Revell 1:32 version which was an aweful build! Think I will be doing some more of these and I have the Cyber Hobby Sea Vixen in my stash which I might do next. So any comments welcome Chris
  17. Quick question, Has anybody ever tried fitting the Eduard flap set intended for a Cyber Hobby / Dragon Meteor on to an MPM/Xtrakit wing? If so how well did it go?
  18. For my birthday in 2005, my wife dispatched me to the National Museum of the US Air Force (on my own!) I spent three amazing days there and only wish that my photographic skills with my first DSLR (a Nikon D70) were better! I have always been entranced by the XB-70 Valkyrie, so was delighted to spend some time in its presence: It was too big and the hanger was too full to get the whole airframe in shot! As I'm not a tennis fan, I thought I would throw this one together while my wife watched the Ladies Finals: Excuse the "noisy" images taken on my phone in the conservatory during a heavy downpour! Thanks for looking.
  19. SH-3D Sea King Etch Detail Sets - for the Cyber Hobby Kit 1:72 Eduard The Cyber Hobby Sea King has been released now in several guises and on the whole it's regarded as a great kit with good detail and assembly. Whilst I don't have this kit, from research, I believe the sonar operators station is not reproduced by Cyber Hobby, which in this aircraft being an anti-submarine warfare platform is a key element. Within this review, I'm looking at the interior, exterior and Zoom set. SH-3D Sea King Interior (Set 73477) This set comprises a clear piece of acetate, a pre-painted self adhesive and two standard etch frets. The interior of both the cockpit and rear cabin get treated, however one noticeable omission is the sonar operator station that the kit doesn't include either. Whether this is planned as a separate later release, I don't know, but it's quite disappointing given that there is a door revealing this if you choose to have it open. With that negative element out of the way, lets move on. The cockpit gets pre-painted instrument panels, which with such a large canopy, will be on show. There are quite a lot of cabin side wall panels with fine rivets on the unpainted fret that sit between the moulded in frames, however I'm not sure how noticeable these will be once painted. The cabin floor is provided and has some good detail which after a panel wash should show up very well, especially if you plan to have the barn door open. What is very nicely represented in the set is the sonar housing and hoisting mechanism that sits on the floor in the middle having seen some images of this made up. For more information, see HERE SH-3D Sea King Zoom (Set SS477) This budget pack includes the pre-painted self adhesive fret included in the above set which primarily focusses on the cockpit panelling. For more information, see HERE SH-3D Sea King Exterior (Set 72562) Producing the exterior of a helicopter with the various meshes, handles and protrusions that are typically visible in plastic is quite difficult. As such, etch allows the ability to significantly improve the appearance with more scale accurate parts and that is exactly what Eduard have done with this set. Whilst there is only one fret included, it is very well thought through. The Sea King bristles with vents and mesh covers around the engine area and these are beautifully reproduced. If one could be critical, then even with etch, it's not possible to create the fine mesh so that you can see through it. As well as the detail around the engine covers, other panels around the aircraft are included with several under the hull and along the fuselage. Hydraulic lines and hinges for the rotor hubs are included as is the folding mechanism for the tail. One of the most impressive parts of this set in my opinion is the stunning access step for the rear cabin on the port side of the fuselage. This will look rather special when assembled and painted, although of course it will reveal the vacant sonar station unless you scratch build one. For more information, see HERE Conclusion Apart from the missing sonar station, these sets are very impressive, in particular the exterior set as it will be immediately noticeable on inspection. There are some tricky assemblies around the sonar hoist framework that will need great care in assembly, but there is no doubt that a rather special build can be achieved using these additions. Review sample courtesy of
  20. I picked up this at the weekend as a distraction from review builds and reviews, as it's ages since I've built anything just for my own pleasure. This is a Cyber Hobby Orange boxing of the Dragon (Trimaster?) kit of the proposed Bomber Destroyer that was fitted with a 50mm Bordkanone 5 in the nose. Only two prototypes were finished before the end of hostilities, and the box top artwork shows a drab RLM 81 with RLM82 spinter pattern on the wings, over RLM76. That late in the war, I'd have thought that a bare metal finish under the wings would be more likely, but what do I know? I'm in the market for a more interesting colour scheme, as the 262 is one of my favourite looking of the early jets. Putting a big fat cannon on the front of it just appeals to my sense of "wrong", so I treated it to one of Master's excellent turned brass and aluminium examples off eBay. I also had a cheapo Zoom! set of Eduard PE that was meant for a nachtjager, so I pressed the front half of that into service. I also killed two birds with one cannon shell and built up a set of the new Eduard "fabric" seatbelts, which took a while, but paid off. It allowed me to write the review with more conviction into the bargain, which is nice The cockpit of this ageing kit is a little rough and not very ready. The tub is nothing more than a section of tube with front and rear bulkheads built in, and some very sketchy detail moulded in. There were tooling marks and ejector pin marks all over the show, and the bases for the side consoles were a bit narrow, so I skinned those with some 0.1mm styrene sheet patterned from a masking tape template. The floor was also given a little extra care & attention, plus a new cross-board in front of the rudder pedals, which were replaced with some early LionRoar examples from the stash. Some of the detail was removed to accomodate the PE, which was pre-painted a not especially convincing colour. Once I'd painted the cockpit I touched in the grey with my shade, so it blends in better (I think?). I also added some lead wire to the rear of the instruments, which has been largely a waste of time and effort, after seeing the part in place I squished the control column's grip and have carved a new one from styrene rod, which is sitting beside me now waiting for the glue to cure, after which it will be painted up... again The nose gear bay had some tricky looking ejector pin marks, so those were filled with punched styrene circles and sanded flush (enough) before being painted. The kit includes a couple of PE sheets in some tough ferric blend of metal that really doesn't like to be cut or bent. Curiously enough, most of that is used in constructing the main gear bay, so that was built up after some seriously aggressive clean-up of the styrene parts, which were 'orrible. They were glued in the lower wing, primed, painted, varnished and washed, then matted down. I also built up the nacelles for the engines, electing not to use the extra sprues of Jumo engines for the stripped down option that's included with the kit along with a couple of mechanics and a stepped platform. The fit of these parts wasn't the best, but it's nothing that some CA and sanding sticks can't sort out, although some minor rescribing looks to be on the cards. These are currently setting up with CA in the joints, waiting for me to create a haze of styrene dusk at some point in the near future. I'm considering riveting the entire airframe once I've built up the fuselage, as there's not a massive amount of surface detail on the kit, as it's quite an old one. It's also got some horrible rubbery tyres and quite nice styrene hubs, which I'm trying not to use, but I'm also trying not to spend much money on it, as it's an old kit. If anyone's got any good ones that they have no need for, I'd be happy to negotiate their release I've added a few tabs to strengthen the obvious underside seams of the fuselage, and the wing joints, but these are going to need some adjustment, as the wall thickness is extremely variable all over the kit due to the old skool techniques used for tooling back then. Enough waffle - here's a pic of everything sat together. Looking forward, I think I've still got a lot of work to do, as the inspection panel covering the cannon breech fits where it touches. I think the guy that tooled the part was told there was a kit being tooled, but not about the dimensions. The landing gear could be interesting, but I'm sure I'll manage. Then there's the colour scheme - I'd prefer not to do the kit scheme, so if anyone's got any ideas, I'm all ears I guess it would have been easier to just buy the newer Hobby Boss kit, but this was just staring at me from the shelf, looking all forlorn with its partially crushed box and simple artwork. "buy me a cannon" it said, and I did. I'm impressionable like that
  21. Sea King HC-4 Etch Internal & External Detailing Sets 1:72 Eduard for Cyber Hobby Kit Having reviewed the EAW.2 etch parts for the great Cyber Hobby kit, the HC-4 variant has also been given the Eduard treatment. The kit by itself is certainly not lacking, and with good clear parts, the interior can be seen quite easily, not that you probably need an excuse to pack it with more detail ! There are two sets being reviewed here, one addressing the interior, the other one for the exterior. Sea King HC-4 Interior (set 73465) Firstly, this pack indicates that it’s for the Italeri kit, but with no evidence of one existing, I suspect it’s a misprint and indeed for the Cyber Hobby kit. This contains three frets of etch parts; almost if not identical to the AEW.2 set, one being pre-painted and self adhesive for the cockpit area. Included on the pre-painted fret is a replacement main panel made up in two layers together with a replacement T-frame. A replacement bulkhead with wiring and surface detailing gives a good but subtle improvement. The cockpit side and overhead panels get the same treatment from the coloured fret. The cabin interior walls are catered for with a considerable number of panels that are designed to sit between the framework. How beneficial or noticeable these will be, I’m not sure. The crew seats are significantly improved with seat belts and structural frame work. Finally, many electrical panels of varying sizes are catered for in the set to really ‘busy’ up both the cockpit and cabin areas. Sea King HC-4 Zoom Interior (set SS465) If you just want to give your cockpit a makeover, particularly useful if you intend to have the rear doors closed, then the Zoom set offers the budget alternative. It contains just the Self Adhesive pre-painted fret shown above. Sea King HC-4 Exterior (set 72558) This is very similar to the AEW.2 set, however because the HC-4 doesn’t have sponsons or look-down radar, there is only one fret included which is suffice to give the same level of enhancements to the rest of the airframe. There’s a vast amount of access panels, handles and tie down hooks included to give the surface the busy look of the real thing. A stunning set of boarding steps is included which in itself is a work of art. This requires wire of around 0.15 diameter that isn’t included, so you will need to source some yourself. The main rotor hub has several enhancement parts. The diagram in the instructions is a quite complicated affair, so I would recommend spending some time digesting this step, but the results will no doubt be worth it. The tail rotor also receives a makeover on the hub. If you want the tail folded, the additional detail offered in this set will be most welcome with no less than 14 parts making up the folding mechanism and structure. Tail spine and vertical reinforcing plates as well as various vent grilles add to the tail area detailing. Conclusions It’s good to see Eduard giving detail options to the HC-4 as well as the AEW.2 variants. I guess these sets will sell more successfully across the pond in comparison to the AEW.2 sets, but both are great upgrade options. There are some fiddly parts such as the tail rotor and boarding step assembly, but with patience, some experience handling etch and defence from the carpet monster, great results can be expected. Review sample courtesy of
  22. Sea King AEW.2 Etch Detail Sets 1:72 Eduard for the Cyber Hobby Kit With the Sea King now in the twilight moments of an amazing career, there has been a great deal of modelling interest in it lately. With the recent release of the Dragon AEW.2 Sea King, Eduard has released a number of sets to spruce it up. Whilst the kit is nicely moulded, it does I believe have some accuracy issues. Jessica has done a good review of the Dragon kit on Aeroscale and points out some of the inaccuracies well. There are three sets here that I’m reviewing: Interior set – includes cockpit and cabin interior improvements Interior Zoon set – budget version of the above focussing predominantly on the cockpit interior Equipment Set – this adds the avionic stations to the cabin area that I believe are missing from the Dragon kit Exterior Set - adds a significant amount of external detail to the kit · Sea King AEW.2 Interior (set 73468) This contains three frets of etch parts, one being pre-painted and self adhesive for the cockpit area. Included on the pre-painted fret is a replacement main panel made up in two layers together with a replacement T-frame. A replacement bulkhead with wiring and surface detailing gives a good but subtle improvement. The cockpit side and overhead panels get the same treatment from the coloured fret. The cabin interior walls are catered for with a considerable number of panels that are designed to sit between the framework. How beneficial or noticeable these will be, I’m not sure. The crew seats are significantly improved with seat belts and structural frame work. Finally, many electrical panels of varying sizes are catered for in the set to really ‘busy’ up both the cockpit and cabin areas. Sea King AEW.2 Interior Zoom (set SS468) This is a budget version of the above containing just the Pre-painted Self Adhesive fret. This includes the main, side and overhead panels. Sea King AEW.2 Equipment (set 73470) The rear cabin of the AEW.2 has a lot of radar equipment in it. This is faithfully reproduced in this set. Again, 3 frets are contained with the electrical displays and switch panels being supplied on a pre-painted fret. A significant improvement to the cabin area of your Sea King can be made with this pack. Sea King AEW.2 Exterior (set 72557) If investing lots of money to fill the interior of your kit that most will not see doesn’t really float your boat, they you might be tempted by this. There is a lot of detail contained on the two frets that will certainly transform the exterior of your build and in good scale representation too. The Sponsons and undercarriage get a comprehensive make over offering internal sidewalls, hydraulic and brake lines. Some plastic will need to be cut away from the main uc legs which looks quite fiddly. Replacing this section completely with a piece of suitable diameter rod looks easier. There’s a vast amount of access panels, handles and tie down hooks included to give the surface the busy look of the real thing. A stunning set of boarding steps is included which in itself is a work of art. This requires wire of around 0.15 diameter that isn’t included. The main rotor hub has several enhancement parts. The diagram in the instructions is a quite complicated affair, so I would recommend spending some time digesting this step, but the results will no doubt be worth it. The tail rotor also receives a makeover on the hub. If you want the tail folded, the additional detail offered in this set will be most welcome with no less than 14 parts making up the folding mechanism and structure. Tail spine and vertical reinforcing plates as well as various vent grilles add to the tail area detailing. The radome isn’t forgotten either as this is spruced up on the rear face. Conclusion The cockpit is already quite well catered for in the Cyber Hobby Sea King, but etch has the ability to improve scale accuracy beyond what is possible in plastic. The sets here make for a great improvement to the kit as described above, particularly with the radar control stations. They may also benefit the Airfix kit if you’ve already invested in one of those; it would be interesting to see if anyone can confirm this. The exterior set offers a huge transformation to the exterior of the kit in the way that plastic simply can't complete with. Review sample courtesy of
  23. Cyber Hobby Sea Vixen FAW.1 Resin Upgrades 1:72 Quickboost Airfix undoubtably have the 1/48 market sewn up with their stunning Sea Vixen kit, but the 1/72 market is a little more open with competition, the two 'best' options coming from Dragon / Cyber Hobby and the other from Xtrakit / MPM although each has it's issues with accuracy. These little gems are aimed at improving the Cyber Hobby kit. QB 72 379 Sea Vixen FAW.1 Correct Nose One of the Sea Vixens prominent features is its distinctly pointed nose, yet the Cyber Hobby kit looks much too rounded and loses some of the character of this classic aircraft. This correction piece is a direct replacement that restores the correct look of the nose. The shape look very good when compared to photographs and I suepct that for any Sea Vixen fans who model in 1/72 scale this will be an essential purchase. One point to be aware of is that with the nose being solid resin, there is no room to add a nose weight so adding weight to another part of the forward fuselage may be necessary. QB 72 377 Sea Vixen FAW.1 Landing Lights The kit landing light part located just in front of the nose wheel is moulded in grey plastic rather than clear. Whilst the lights are very small, this addition will give the opportunity to add a touch of realism. Pre-colouring the lights then applying a tiny dot of masking solution whilst the airframe colour is applied should get a good result. Conclusion The Cyber Hobby kit whilst being one of the best kits available in 1/72 is known for its accuracy issues, some being easier to fix than others. As such, seeing the developing range of Quickboost accessories to improve it is most welcome. As you'd expect, the quality of these parts is excellent and the replacement nose cone is almost a given if you intend to build the kit unless you modify the nose yourself. Review samples courtesy of distributed in the UK by Hannants Ltd.
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