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  1. Hello, this will be my 2. attempt to build this model. This time i will use a wooden deck (genuine 1:350 deck from ARTWOX), a new challenge!, I used only a few parts from the ICM Koenig kit. the hull, main decks, gun turrets, boats and casemates. All the rest has been printed by shapeways. I have to print all the little tiny deck details in 3D and glue them on the wooden deck. Does anybody have experience with not pre-cutted genuine decks? I use the hull and the turrets of a Koenig 1:350 ICM Kit, turning the main aft deck upside down, to avoid removing all the molded on deck details. The 2 superstructures will be 3D printed. Regards Andreas
  2. This was posted in the WWI discussion thread by RichieW so I have to give him credit for the scoop but I thought it would be nice to get it on this thread. Copper State Model posted on their facebook page on April 2nd that they are to release a 1/32 Bristol Scout in 2021. Below is a link to their posting (should not need to be a FB member to see it). https://m.facebook.com/copperstatemodels/posts/2720441618244580
  3. What would a collection of WWI aircraft be without the presence of the iconic Fokker Eindecker? Besides being the very first aircraft equipped with a synchronization gear which allowed a machine gun to fire through the propeller without damaging the airscrew, it caused much grief amongst the pilots of the Entente as the Eindecker outclassed Allied aircraft from its introduction in July 1915 through February 1916. Thinking I would receive a kit with some enhanced features and extra detailing possibilities, I purchased this "limited edition" SabreKits boxing of Eduard's Fokker E.III online. Inside the box I did indeed find the single-sprue Eduard kit, but with no extra photoetch or unique decals as advertised. In fact, the kit was missing the clear windshield sprue and the German crosses were printed without any white backing, meaning that I would have to furnish a windshield and mask and paint the white squares myself. Neither task proved impossible, but with that kind of quality control, I won't ever buy a SabreKit again! Anyway, I still enjoyed the build and I am highly satisfied with how the rigging turned out. For this task, I used Uschi .001" Superfine line.. a fantastic product. On the 18th of March 1916, Ernst Udet alone flew Fok. E.III 105/15 into a formation of 23 French bombers and achieved his first of 62 aerial kills, shooting down a French Farman F.40 and damaging one other before his machine gun jammed. For this action, he was awarded the Iron Cross First Class.
  4. This was brought on a whim; I’d never heard of it but liked the quirkiness. PKZ- 2 artillery observation platform / helicopter Roden 1/72 Its an experimental Austro-Hungarian replacement for observation balloons it flew a few times in the spring of 1918 before being shelved. interesting build, quite fiddly and difficult to line things up - rigging was shall we say challenging. Quite pleased with the end result though
  5. Albatros D.V (QD32085 for Wingnut Wings) 1:32 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention, they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even if they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of elevation as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces and metallic-effect hardware, and often including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a Ziploc bag with a folded instruction booklet protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the awesomeness of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the “pictures speak a thousand words” maxim. Additional hints and instructions are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts that are used or replaced and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based, giving additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Although you are advised to use Super Glue (CA) to attach the decals to the surface permanently, preparation is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the Wingnut Wings Albatros D.V, and is probably the only aftermarket these kits could want or need. The set comprises two sheets of decals, starting with a rear bulkhead that has a choice of linen or lozenge-coloured covers; instruments and compass for the simple panels of the day; key-like switches on the panel; a length of bead or chain and a dial for the right sidewall; a set of detailed four-point harnesses for the pilot, and an exquisite button-quilted cushion for his seat that has just the perfect amount of shine to represent leather; realistic wood pattern and textured floor panel; two wood effect panels for either side of the engine block; details for the ammo feeds and tanks inside the fuselage; a substantial number of raised inspection hatches for the exterior of the fuselage, wings and the aerofoil between the wheels, all of which will improve an already excellent model substantially. Conclusion The detail on the parts is incredible, down to the stiffening around pass-throughs, the dials, that seat, and overall impressive crispness of the set. This WWI cockpit is open to the air, which is just the ticket to show off the superb details. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Salmson 2A2 (KPM0327) 1:72 Kovozávody Prostějov Salmson was a French aviation manufacturer that created the Model 2 reconnaissance aircraft for a WWI requirement, and the resulting type saw substantial service with the French Air Force during the last years of the Great War. As the American aviation industry was somewhat behind Europe due to their country’s late entry into the war, the type was also pressed into service with the nascent US Air Service, with an impressive 700 used. Salmson originally made pumping equipment, but changed to automobile and aviation manufacturing during the early part of the 20th century, even producing their own aviation engines. They eventually went back to their roots, leaving aviation behind them and are currently still operating in that industry. The Salmson 2 was available in a number of variants, the 2A2 being the standard edition that was equipped with a Z9 Water-cooled 9-cyl radial engine of their own manufacture, and as they had originally built the Sopwith 1.5 Strutter under license, its replacement bore some resemblance to its forebear. They were also license built by Kawasaki as the Otsu-1 in Japan. The Kit This is a reboxing of the 2022 kit, so effectively a new tool as it differs by the decals included in the kit. It arrives in a small end-opening box that has a painting of the type on the front, and the decal options on the rear. Inside are two sprues in grey styrene, a small sheet of printed acetate sheet, a decal sheet, and instructions inside a resealable clear foil bag. The instruction booklet is identical between the American and Kawasaki kits, as they build identically and differ only in their painting and decaling. Our reviews will be very similar in that way, as we don’t believe in reinventing the wheel. Construction begins with the cockpit, starting with the fuselage top with its twin cockpit openings, an instrument panel in the front of the forward bay and a headrest upstand behind it. A pair of short struts fit between the two openings, and another two struts are inserted into the cockpit floor, exiting through the rear of the pilot’s aperture, with a simple basket seat, control column and rudder pedals for his use, and a fuel tank between the crew stations. This assembly is trapped between the fuselage halves, which have detail moulded inside them where it will be seen as well as externally to replicate the fabric exterior. The cockpit openings insert joins to the fuselage, threading the afore mentioned struts through the pilot’s slot, and adding the engine cowling to the front, which is made up from a three-section cowling ring and separate front lip that has a multi-blade fan moulded inside that hides the engine, doing an impression of a jet engine until you add the two-blade prop of course. The pilot’s deck is outfitted with a tube sight and a Vickers machine gun that fires through the prop, and the acetate sheet is cut to the printed shape to form the small windscreen that keeps at least some of the engine oil off his face. Another windscreen keeps the oil off the back of the gunner’s head, and his circular opening has a simple C-shaped mount for twin Lewis guns that can be glued in place at any angle to simulate the ring that it was mounted on. The tail of the beast is simple and yet complex, having a single part depicting the elevators, and another for the rudder. There are two V-shaped supports under the elevators, and a tripod made from three individual lengths to steady the rudder fin, with another diagram showing where the control wires should be. The lower wing is full-width and passes under the fuselage, and there are eight interplane struts that looks a little like baguettes in the diagrams due to their narrow ends, but I digress. Under the wing the main gear legs consist of two tripodal braces with an aerodynamically faired axle onto which the two wheels are glued at the ends. Individual radiator fins are glued under the cowling, and a wind-powered fuel pump is fitted to the gear legs, then it’s time to put the upper wing on. Attaching the wing should be relatively simple, lining up the twelve struts with the holes in the underside of the upper wing, but that is without considering the rigging. A drawing shows where the various rigging wires should go, and you can use your preferred method of getting the task accomplished and make good any repainting that may be required after hiding the holes for the rigging material. For the avoidance of doubt, you will need to supply your own rigging thread, and folks have their own preferences here too. Markings There are three options on the rear of the box, all in American service during and just after World War One, with some variation of scheme between them, and some early national markings on display. From the box you can build one of the following: Red 15, 24th Aero Sqn., Nov 1918 #1319, Red 6, 12th Aero Sqn., 1918 #5464, White 8, 1st Aero Sqn., Jun 1919 The decals are well-printed with good register, sharpness and colour density, which includes a simple instrument panel decal to assist you with the cockpit. Conclusion The 2A2 was a fairly important reconnaissance aircraft in the later part of WWI, and its design is relatively modern-looking when compared to some of the earlier string-bags. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. I love the Renault FT and I have two in 1/72 scale in my collection, however as you can see they are about the size of a postage stamp. So doing the various calculations 1/24 gives me an 8.2 inch long model so a nice size. This is going to be a slow off project build and I’m intending to build it with all the hatches open. So next step scale some plans up and start cutting styrene
  8. Sopwith Camel Comic ProfiPACK (82175) 1:48 Eduard The Camel was a development of the earlier Sopwith Pup that entered service late in WWI and was an excellent fighter, although in typical form during warfare, it soon became outclassed and was relegated to ground attack duties where possible. It first flew at the very end of 1916, and was introduced into service in the summer of 1917 where it quickly became the Allies’ premiere fighter of the time, and was responsible for the most kills of any type during the conflict. It gained its unofficial name thanks to the cowlings around the twin Vickers machine guns that were intended to prevent them from freezing up at altitude. In flight it could be a tricky ride for the novice, thanks to the close proximity of the weighty elements of the airframe toward the very front of the fuselage, which was one of the aspects that made it a nimble aircraft in a turn, which is crucial in a dogfight. Its reputation became quite a problem, so a two-seat trainer was created to help overcome the problem, and went on to see wide service both with the RFC, RAF, nascent USAS and with the RNAS. Its climb-rate and top speed led to its withdrawal as a fighter, to be replaced by the Snipe, which was capable of coping with the new German fighters that were coming on-stream, such as the Fokker D.VII. Its ground attack role involved strafing enemy trenches and dropping 25lb Cooper bombs, but attrition levels were high due to their proximity to their targets and a total lack of protection for the pilot and engine. The last Camels were withdrawn in 1920, long after the end of WWI, having seen a good deal of foreign service in the meantime. The Comic variant was a night fighter that had the weapons moved from the cowling over the engine to the top of the wing, in order to reduce the flash from the gun’s effect on the pilot’s night vision. A pilot with temporary blindness caused by firing his guns would be both vulnerable to attack and likely to blunder into other aircraft or even the ground if his luck expired. The Kit This is a minor re-tool of Eduard’s recent new tooling of this famous WWI fighter, depicting the nightfighter with twin Lewis guns on the upper wing. Inside the top-opening box there are three sprues in blue/grey styrene, one in clear, a nickel-plated Photo-Etch (PE) fret with colour printing on much of it, and a set of kabuki tape masking (not pictured), pre-cut for your convenience. There is also a long narrow decal sheet, plus the instruction booklet with spot colour throughout and colour profiles in the rear: Construction begins with the pilot’s seat, which was wholly inappropriately made from wicker for minimum bullet resistance, mostly thanks to the weight constraints of the way. The back is either made from PE curved around the base, which has a perforated PE insert and has a horseshoe shaped styrene lip to the rear. There’s also a simpler alternative made from two styrene parts if you don’t feel up to wrangling PE. The aft section of the cockpit floor is a very sparse set of slats across a pair of stringers, which the seat is glued along with some pre-painted PE lap belts. The instrument panel is made, with two options made from a lamination of pre-painted PE parts with wood-grain printed on the front layer and the instruments on the rear. They are glued to a styrene back-plate, or you can choose the more simplistic styrene alternative that has decals for the instrument dials. The forward floor is made up and fitted to the fuselage lower insert as are the rudder pedals, then the cockpit side frames are inserted in the fuselage and painted before the aft floor is glued perpendicular sides with the panel also trapped in position, along with the rear tail-skid, with instructions in red letters telling you NOT to glue the two cockpit sub-assemblies in place. The front floor is inserted from below once closed up, then the front bulkhead with tank is inserted into the front of the fuselage. There is a choice of Clerget or Le Rhône engine for your Comic, the former made from three layers, the latter from just two, but both are full of detail and have detailed painting guides and a scrap diagram to the side to assist you with completion of your motor. With the engine in place, the cowling and cockpit surround assemblies are installed next, with optional ring-and-bead sights from PE added after drilling minute 0.3mm holes in the deck. More 0.5mm holes are drilled into the side for one markings option to add a pair of small parts, and further back down the fuselage the raised details are removed by sanding for one of the options. A windscreen with a circular PE sight set on an angled frame is added for some decal options, with the tapering upstand behind the pilot’s head also fitted. The tail is first of the flying surfaces to be made up, starting with the horizontal fin and the elevators, which have their styrene guide-horns removed and replaced by PE parts that are mounted in 0.3mm holes you’ll need to drill out. The rudder and its fin are inserted vertically, and the horns are removed and replaced in a similar manner too. The lower wings are single-thickness parts with superb detail of the ribs and tape, and have their ailerons separate with the PE horns replacing the styrene lumps, plus a small clear window over the pulley within the leading edge of the wing. Both lower wings slot into twin holes in the fuselage on long rectangular pins, and the upper wing in a single span is fitted with ailerons and their PE horns, plus more of the clear inspection windows for the control wires. There’s bound to be some rigging going on before you finally join the wings together, but the interplane struts and the cabane struts are inserted into the lower wing and lined up with the top wing, with either a pair of Lewis guns on a curved mount, or just one with an empty mount beside it, again depending on which decal option you will use. The empty mount is filled with another Lewis gun at an angle, possibly in a pre-cursor to the WWII German Schrage muzik that was used to fire at targets from below and behind. Eduard have sensibly created an aftermarket set of 3D printed resin Lewis guns and their mounts, which are worth a look if you're detail-hungry. The bicycle-wheel landing gear has a choice of two types of wheel and supports, with a common aerodynamic axle fairing. A scrap diagram shows the correct angle of the parts from the front, as well as an optional mount for a fuel pressurisation prop on the vertical strut. The two-bladed prop has moulded-in front detail and glues onto the axle protruding from the front of the engine. Rigging This might put some modellers off, but there’s not a huge amount of it, so gird up your loins and crack on. There are two pages of drawings, with the lines marked in blue on greyscale drawings, and there is a central aerodynamic bullet suspended by four wires over the engine cowling. Good luck to you, and remember to keep it scale, and don’t use cotton as it’ll go fuzzy. Markings The kabuki tape masking will allow you to cut the demarcation between the tyres and their hubs neatly, mask off the windscreen, and also those inspection windows on the wings. From the box you can build one of the following: B9287 No.78(HD) Sqn., Sutton’s Farm, UK, Spring 1918 B2402, B Flight, No.44(HD) Sqn., Hainault Farm, UK, Jan 1918 C Flight, No.44(HD) Sqn., Hainault Farm, UK, Oct 1918 E5165, No.8 (Training) Sqn. AFC, Leighterton, UK, Sep 1918 E5165, Lt. L C Sheffield, No.151 Sqn., Vignacourt, France, Sep 1918 B4614, B Flight, No.44(HD) Sqn., Hainault Farm, UK, Feb 1918 The decals are printed by Eduard and are in good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Don’t forget that as of 2021, the carrier film from Eduard decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier-free, making the decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view. Conclusion The kit as it stands is excellent, but some of you want to add more to any kit you buy, so keep your eye out for the resin set with super-detailed Lewis guns. Lots of detail, lots of choices, and lots of colourful schemes to choose from. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Good day! Today I would like to present a most delicate and fiddly recent completion of mine. It is training version of the Caudron G.III, which can rightly be called the first plane of many successful Allied aviators of the Great War. I didn't feel like documenting this build with too many in-progress pictures, but I was more than a little intimidated when I first looked in the box. It is entirely made of somewhat flexible resin, with photoetched wheel spokes. The major components are of course the wings, the engine, and crew nacelle - with interplane struts and the twin tail booms making up the majority of the model, it was mostly just lots of resin sticks to be cut off of casting blocks! Indeed, the preparation of each strut and beam took time, and I fashioned a simple jig out of styrofoam to hold all the wooden parts upright for painting. Then, after lots of cussing while getting the sesquiplane wings oriented correctly, I filled in the remaining area where some interplane struts weren't long enough, and started the rigging. From the kit description: The Caudron G.III was designed by René and Gaston Caudron as a development of their earlier Caudron G.II for military use. It first flew in May 1914. The aircraft had a short crew nacelle, with an engine in the nose of the nacelle, and twin open tailbooms. It was of sesquiplane layout, and used wing warping for lateral control, although this was replaced by conventional ailerons fitted on the upper wing in late production aircraft. Usually, the G.III was not equipped with any weapons, although rifle-caliber weapons and hand-released small bombs were carried. Most G.IIIs were the A.2 model, used by numerous air forces for reconnaissance and artillery spotting on the Western Front, Russia, and the Middle East. The G.III D2 was a two-seat trainer aircraft, equipped with dual controls, and powered by a 80hp Le Rhône air-cooled rotary engine. The latest versions were equipped with more powerful 100hp Anzani 10 radial engine. Operators: Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Brazil, China, Colombia, Denmark, El Salvador, Finland, France, Greece, Italy, Japan, Peru, Portugal, Poland, Romania, Russia, Serbia, Spain, United Kingdom, United States, Venezuela. I used two types of rigging material here, in an attempt to portray the difference of thickness between bracing and control wires. For the interplane bracing, I used EZ Line "Fine" .003" material and this was especially difficult to work with. I wish I had gotten a lot of the rigging to look more straight, but I think it is partly a downfall of EZ Line to curl up at the end when dabbed in CA glue. The control wires were done with Uschi .001" superfine line, and this was the stuff I should have been using all along. It's basically spiderweb and hard to see, but coincidentally much easier to glue. It also looks much more in-scale for 1/72. Safe to say, I will use exclusively the Uschi product from now on. I won't pretend to have done all the rigging as on the real deal... but I did most of it! Overall a very different and challenging build. I am still getting used to working with resin. To tell you the truth, I wish I had reserved the effort for the fantastic looking G.III from Copper State Models in 1/32. Who says I can't have both.. Thanks for looking!
  10. Lloyd C.V Lukgraph 1/32 The model has been really pleasant to build. The woodgrain is Lukgraph's decals. I've added some minor details like the binoculars or the anemometer. The propeller has been laser-cut by my friend Michał Jakś and carved by me. Overall I'm quite happy with the result. I hope to see more Austro-Hungarian subjects coming from Lukgraph.
  11. Lloyd C.V Lukgraph 1/32 The model has been really pleasant to build. The woodgrain is Lukgraph's decals. I've added some minor details like the binoculars or the anemometer. The propeller has been laser-cut by my friend Michał Jakś and carved by me. Overall I'm quite happy with the result. I hope to see more Austro-Hungarian subjects coming from Lukgraph.
  12. Guess what I'm going to build now!!! So I'm lucky enough to be able to wrap my dirty fingers around the new BE2C from LUKGRAPH. Here are a couple of thoughts and photos. The BE2C is one of those iconic aircraft of the Great War which has not been represented on a 1/32 scale yet. Thie workhorse of the RFC is finally here. The kit is in my opinion the best model by Lukgraph - so far. Well-detailed, with crisply casted resin parts and with a lot of painting schemes, it's going to be a true joy to build. There are both 3D-printed and resin parts, a PE fret, a huge decal sheet and a superb instructions booklet. The 3D printed engine, bomb racks and wicker seats are simply gorgeous! Well done Łukasz! Here are the shots:
  13. 1/72 scratch build of the German Behemoth the K-Wagen, two prototypes were built but never left the factory, colour scheme is speculative based loosely on late war beutepanzer colours.
  14. I’ve been threatening to build one of these for ages to fill out my WWI tank collection to the point of printing out a paper model of it years ago. While tidying up some paperwork I found the printout so I’ve decided to give it a go. The K-Wagen was a behemoth, if the British heavy tank was a land ship than this would have been a land dreadnaught. Bigger than a Tiger II possibly even than a Maus, designers to be brought to the battlefield in modular sections, two prototypes were at an advanced stage of construction at the end or the war but were scrapped without ever leaving the factory . Without a doubt it would have been a formidable battlefield presence but more mobile fortress than tank. The main hull. When I get a chance I’ll post some size comparison photos.
  15. Austin Armoured Car 1918 Pattern (39009) British Service, Western Front 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd Armour became an important part of WWI, seeing the first fielding of the Tank by the British, and numerous types of armoured car that saw various uses. At the beginning of WWI Austin’s armoured car was built on their civilian chassis, with light armour and two Maxim machine guns in separate turrets, one firing to each side, front and rear. Many were destined for Russia, but after the Russian Revolution in 1917 some of the later variants were used in British service. One such version was the 1918 Pattern, which had double rear wheels, thicker armour and used the Hotchkiss machine gun instead. A batch of 1918 Pattern vehicles were manufactured for Russia, but were never delivered, with a batch handed to the newly formed Tank Corps, to be utilised in battle using a novel method of deployment. Tanks would tow them across the battlefield through no-man’s land, after which they would peel off and roam freely along and even behind enemy lines. They caused chaos and were almost too effective, ranging miles behind enemy lines at times, and set the scene for the Armoured Car and Infantry Fighting Vehicle of wars yet to come. At the end of the Great War some were returned to the UK and repurposed, but many that were formerly in Russian possession found their way into the inventory of other Eastern European countries, and a small batch were even used by the Japanese, who were British Allies in WWI. Some of those were still in service up until just before WWII. The Kit This is a reboxing of last year’s newly tooled kit, with new parts to accurately portray the later mark included, including the new rear axle and wheels. It arrives in standard-sized top-opening box with a painting of the vehicle on the front, and inside are fifteen sprues and six wheels in grey styrene, a sprue of clear parts, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) in a card envelope, a decal sheet and the instruction booklet that has colour profiles inside the front and rear covers. It’s an Interior kit, so some of the sprues are small, but you get a lot of detail moulded-in, thanks to MiniArt’s diligent designers that make full use of techniques such as slide-moulding, which helps improve detail without creating too many additional parts in achieving this goal. Construction begins with the ladder chassis, which is built up from two longitudinal rails held apart by various cross-members, some of which have mounting points and pass-throughs for other parts such as drive-shafts for the rear wheels. The engine has its own bearer rails, and it is built up on the sump with a good number of parts, plus a note of where the high-tension leads should go, which you’ll need to make yourself. You are officially an “experienced modeller” if you go to those lengths. The transmission fits to the rear of the rails behind the engine, then they are dropped into the chassis as a unit, and joined by a number of ancillary parts, controls and a chunky radiator. Exhaust and leaf-spring suspension along with bumper irons are glued to the inverted chassis, and the rest of the driver controls are attached to the topside, even before the cab is started. The rods that turn control movements into actions are threaded through the chassis rails, or can be replaced by 0.3mm wires of your own stock, with PE tensioning mechanisms supplied if you choose this option. The big rear axle with drum brakes and the front axle with steering arms are fabricated and attached to their relevant suspension mounts, with more control linkages for the handbrake and steering joining things together. Finally, a little bodywork is attached, initially at the sides of the engine compartments in preparation for the gluing of the swooping front arches, then each axle gets a wheel at both ends, made up from single-part hubs at the front, and mated double hubs at the rear onto which the six cross-treaded tyres are fitted, each one having a slide-moulded seam where the sidewall and tread meet, removing the need to sand and scrape at the lovely tread pattern, simplifying preparation and preserving detail. That’s a good thing, and something I’d like to see more of. Now standing on her own six wheels, the floor of the fighting compartment and the crew cab plus the firewall and various small fittings are placed on the top of the chassis, with another insert providing the bases for the two turrets that have pivot-points in the centre for the machine gun mounts. Various stowage boxes are made up and sat next to the (shocker!) rear steering wheel assembly, which also has a simple seat for getting out of hot water and dead-ends just that little bit easier. Two more substantial crew seats are attached to the front along with steps at the sides, then the somewhat complex upper hull is built sensibly in a step-by-step fashion that stops the modeller from being over-faced. Several raised features should be removed from parts before fitting, and additional rivets are shown being added in various other locations, which you can slice from the flat section of the two Ck sprues, unless you’ve got a set of Archer raised rivet transfers. The clamshell crew flap can be posed open to give a wider view of the battlefield for the drivers by using two styles of rods, and when in battle it can be closed down, restricting the driver to a letterbox view of the world, which although frustrating is infinitely better than being shot. Plenty of scrap diagrams show the correct orientations of all the parts, so there’s little room for error unless you rush at it and don’t plan ahead. The hull has a number of doors that can be posed open and closed too, with vision flaps for additional situational awareness, and again there is a lot of hand-holding to get things in the right place. A number of small lights are dotted here & there, all with clear lenses for realism. Even the radiator has a remotely operated armoured cover, as engines overheating could become troublesome if the flap stays closed too long. The side-cowlings for the engine compartment can also be posed open or closed, and have small PE straps holding them closed. With the addition of the rear fenders, the hull/body is lowered over the chassis, and more stowage is located around the vehicle, including a rack of fuel cans on the front left to make sure they don’t run out behind enemy lines. Pioneer tools are attached to the sides of the car, and a pair of curved-ended unditching planks are strapped-on low down on the chassis sides by some folded PE brackets. Turrets are fun, aren’t they? You build up a pair of mounts for the Hotchkiss machine guns, including a tractor-style perforated seat for the operator and a large ammo can to feed the gun, which is fitted into a ball-mount that is glued up against the inner surface of the two-part circular walls. A few more of those slice-off rivets are glued to the top of the turret walls, mainly for detail purposes, as adding moulded-in rivets to a curved part is very hit & miss due to the way the parts are removed from the moulds. The roof is detailed with latches, searchlights on PE brackets and other small fittings, each one fitted open or closed as you see fit. There are two identical turrets included, and these drop into the circular cut-outs in the roof of the fighting compartment, held in place by gravity unless you fix them into position with a little glue. Markings There are a generous seven decal options on the decal sheet, with their five-view profiles printed in full colour on the glossy pages of the booklet, and while they all share the same basic colour, there is enough variety created by the unit markings to offer plenty of choice. From the box you can build one of the following: 17th Armoured Car Battalion Royal Tank Corps., Second Battle of the Somme, France, Aug. 1918 17th Armoured Car Battalion Royal Tank Corps., France, Summer 1918 17th Armoured Car Battalion Royal Tank Corps., Second Battle of the Somme, France, Harbonnières, Summer 1918 17th Armoured Car Battalion Royal Tank Corps., France, Summer 1918 17th Armoured Car Battalion Royal Tank Corps., France, Aug. 1918 17th Armoured Car Battalion Royal Tank Corps., Germany, Cologne, Dec. 1918 17th Armoured Car Battalion Royal Tank Corps., Germany, Cologne, Dec. 1918 Decals are by MiniArt’s usual partner Decograph, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This peculiar early armoured car isn’t as familiar as the Mark.IV tank or the Whippet Light Tank, but it’s been great seeing MiniArt filling another gap in the available kits of WWI armour. Detail is exceptional as we’ve come to expect from MiniArt. Review sample courtesy of
  16. Camel & Co Limited Edition Dual Combo Sopwith Camel (11151) 1:48 Eduard The Camel was a development of the earlier Sopwith Pup that entered service late in WWI and was an excellent fighter, although in typical form during warfare, it soon became outclassed and was relegated to ground attack duties where possible. It first flew at the very end of 1916, and was introduced into service in the summer of 1917 where it quickly became the Allies’ premiere fighter of the time, and was responsible for the most kills of any type during the conflict. It gained its unofficial name thanks to the cowlings around the twin Vickers machine guns that were intended to prevent them from freezing up at altitude. In flight it could be difficult to control for the novice, thanks to the close proximity of the weighty elements of the airframe toward the very front of the fuselage, which was one of the aspects that made it a nimble aircraft in a turn, which is crucial in a dogfight. Its reputation became quite a problem, so a two-seat trainer was created to help overcome the problem, and went on to see wide service both with the RFC, RAF, nascent USAS and with the RNAS. Its climb-rate and top speed led to its withdrawal as a fighter, to be replaced by the Snipe, which was capable of coping with the new German fighters that were coming on-stream, such as the Fokker D.VII. Its ground attack role involved strafing enemy trenches and dropping 25lb Cooper bombs, but attrition levels were high due to their proximity to their targets and a total lack of protection for the pilot and engine. The last Camels were withdrawn in 1920, long after the end of WWI, having seen a good deal of foreign service in the meantime. The Camel was famously flown by fictional RFC then RAF pilot James “Biggles” Bigglesworth in a long series of books penned by J E Johns during the 30s and beyond, up until the writer’s death in the late 60s. Why do I mention this? Read on, MacDuff. The Kit This limited-edition Dual Combo boxing is of Eduard’s new tool, and isn’t to be confused with their 2003 original. It also has a tie-in with Biggles, thanks to two of the decal options (A & being his “kite” from early and later in his WWI career. With it being brand-new, there’s a lot to look at, especially as everything is provided times two. Looking inside the well-appointed top-opening box there are six sprues in blue/grey styrene, two in clear, two nickel-plated Photo-Etch (PE) frets with colour printing on much of it, and two sets of kabuki tape masking (not pictured), pre-cut for your convenience. There are also two decal sheets, but they’re not duplicates, just an overflow onto a smaller sheet, while the instruction booklet is surprisingly chunky, partly thanks to the ten decal options in colour at the rear. So what’s in the box? Well, two of all the below: Construction of each of your two kits begins with the pilot’s seat, which was wholly inappropriately made from wicker. The back is either made from PE curved around the base, which has a perforated PE insert and has a horseshoe shaped styrene lip to the rear. There’s also a simpler alternative made from two styrene parts if you don’t feel up to wrangling PE, and that is made from two parts. The aft section of the cockpit floor is a very sparse set of slats across a pair of stringers, which the seat and the fuel tank sit upon, the tank sitting behind the pilot. The seat gets a couple of pre-painted PE lap-belts applied, then the instrument panel is made, with two options depending on which markings you have chosen. The panel can be made from a lamination of pre-painted PE parts with wood-grain printed on the front layer and the instruments on the rear. They are glued to a styrene back-plate, or you can choose the more simplistic styrene alternative that has decals for the instrument dials. The panel is joined to a bulkhead with a lateral bar supporting it, and a choice of two types of “handlebars” across the top. The breeches of the Vickers machine guns are glued over the top of the bulkhead after replacing the chunky actuators with PE, and all this is shown from the side in a scrap diagram to assist you with assembly. The forward floor is fitted to the fuselage lower insert as are the rudder pedals, then the front bulkhead has a kidney-shaped tank glued on the cockpit side before it is glued perpendicular to the floor with the control column between the foot plates. The fuselage has some nice ribbing moulded-in, over which another layer is applied, with plenty of painting information supplied for both the cockpit and the rear interior of the fuselage. The cockpit rear and instrument panel sections are trapped between the fuselage halves along with the rear tail-skid, with instructions in red letters telling you NOT to glue the two cockpit subassemblies in place. It doesn’t say why, but it’s probably to obtain a better fit for the cowling and cockpit surround assemblies that are installed next. The front floor is inserted from below, and a choice of two styles of cockpit surround are given for different markings options. There’s an even wider choice when it comes to the engine, as Sopwith’s designers took the precaution of allowing the fitting of four types of engine to prevent issues if supply problems with one type arose. You have a choice of Bentley, Clerget, Gnome, or Le Rhone power plants, three of which have three parts apiece, one only two, with scrap diagrams showing how the parts fit together from the rear. There are three different cowlings that fit all the engines, so your choice is dictated by your last option, then there’s another choice for you to make in front of the pilot’s station. Firstly though, you install the two cooling jackets of the Vickers guns, then a choice of a wider two-pane windscreen with a circular PE sight set between the guns for one option, or a tubular sight that is pushed through a small windscreen panel, but not glued. A side view shows the correct position of this installation, again between the guns. The tail is first of the flying surfaces to be made up, starting with the horizontal fin and the elevators, which have their styrene guide-horns removed and replaced by PE parts that are mounted in 0.3mm holes you’ll need to drill out. The rudder and its fin are inserted vertically, and the horns are removed and replaced in a similar manner too. The lower wings are single-thickness parts with superb detail of the ribs and tape, and have their ailerons separate with the PE horns replacing the styrene lumps, plus a small clear window over the pulley within the leading edge of the wing. Both lower wings slot into twin holes in the fuselage on long rectangular pins, and if you’re doing one of the markings options, there’s a strange little part added offset on the aft edge of the cockpit surround. The upper wing gives you more choices, with a different main span part used for three of the options, both fitted with ailerons and their PE horns, plus more of the clear inspection windows for the control wires. There’s bound to be some rigging going on before you finally join the wings together, but the interplane struts and the cabane struts are inserted into the lower wing and lined up with the top wing, with one option having a new PE propeller and brackets to its wind-driven petrol pressurising pump, which is attached to a blank strut and consigns the alternative moulded-in part to the spares. The bicycle-wheel landing gear has yet more choice available to you, with two types of wheel and four types of supports on one side, but only two on the other side. Odd, but who am I to argue? There’s only one aerofoil-wrapped axle part, and another scrap diagram shows the correct angle of the parts from the front. The optional bomb-racks are made from PE, and have four small styrene bombs and a PE spinner fitted to them before it is glued to the underside behind the landing gear. The prop gives you more choices again – sorry about that. The two-bladed prop has moulded-in front detail that is replaced by a PE part after cutting off the redundant softer detail, or with a choice of two short spinner caps, again depending on which decal option you have chosen. Rigging This might put some modellers off, but there’s not a huge amount of it, so gird up your loins and crack on. There are two pages of drawings, with the lines marked in blue on greyscale drawings, and there is a central aerodynamic bullet suspended by four wires between the Vickers guns. Good luck to you, and remember to keep it scale, and don’t use cotton as it’ll go fuzzy. Markings The kabuki tape masking will allow you to cut the demarcation between the tyres and their hubs neatly, mask off the two types of windscreen, and also those inspection windows on the wings. There are ten markings options on the sheets, only two of which are from Biggles, so if you want to depict the real thing, you still have eight to play with. From the box you can build two of the following: J4613 Capt. James “Biggles” Bigglesworth, No.266 Sqn. RFC, March 1917 J1936 Capt. James “Biggles” Bigglesworth, No.266 Sqn. RAF, March 1918 B3889 Capt. Clive F Collett, B Flight, No.70 Sqn. RFC, Poperinge, France, August 1917 B7190 Capt. Walter G R Hinchliffe, C Flight, No.10(N) Sqn. RNAS, Téteghem, France, March 1918 N3893 Capt. Arthur R Brown, No.9(N) Sqn. RNAS, Leffrinckoucke, France, September 1917 N6377 Capt. Harold F Beamish, No.3(N) Sqn. RNAS, Furnes, Belgium, September 1917 Capt. Henry R Clay Jr., 41st Aero Sqn. USAS, Colombey-les-Belles, France, October 1918 C6713 Capt. D’Urban Victor Armstrong, No.151 Sqn. RAF, Crécy-Estrées, France, April XXXX C1555 Capt. Francis L Luxmoore, No.78(HD) Sqn. RFC, Hornchurch, Great Britain, January 1918 F1471 185th Aero Sqn. USAS, Colombey-les-Belles, France, March 1919 Decals are printed by Eduard with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The picture above isn’t quite how they appear on the sheets, as I photoshopped them into a more convenient shape to make a better picture. Aftermarket The kit as it stands is excellent, but some of you want to add more to any kit you buy (yes, I’m guilty of that too), so Eduard have created a raft of sets to enable you to do just that. We’ve now reviewed a bunch of sets here, and you can get wheels, cockpit in 3D printed resin, seatbelts (not needed for this boxing), a fabulous wicker seat in resin (you really need this one), and even resin and PE fuel-pumps that attach to one of the struts to keep the engine running. The engines, bomb rack and other items will be coming too. Conclusion With two full models in the box, there are a lot of choices multiplied by two, but then again, you end up with two Camels on your display shelves. You can go full Biggles, half Biggles, or zero Biggles if you wish. Lots of detail, lots of choices, and lots of colourful schemes to choose from. Did I mention that there were two full kits in the box? Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  17. First go at a WIP and I have to make it a bit of a blitz! (I'd like to get this one done before the Phantom GB starts in a mere couple of weeks.) My gear is all over the place, I don't yet have a proper bench, there are certain issues with the kit, my camera handbook remains unread, there's 106 miles to Chicago, I've got a full tank of gas, it's dark out, and I'm wearing sunglasses. Hit it! This is the Meng 1/35 British Army (but see below...) WWI Medium Tank Whippet Mk.A. It's goint to be strictly an out of the box high speed build and then a slower and more considered painting session. I'm pretty sure I can do all of the building and then all of the painting, which is pretty well unique strategy. That's the way we used to work when we were kids, no? There's no interior detail, and it's one colour all over, apart from the tracks which I will paint before I clip them on. Clip, not glue so that hardly counts as building to my way of thinking. Suddenly, I'm more confident that I can do it in the time allowed. One update per day, promise. Probably in the morning while the dog is sleeping off her breakfast and our big walk of the day. But I digress... The kit came slowly on a boat from China which saved me some money but may have given me some grief. It was reasonably packed and I've never had any problems before but look at the box. I wonder where in its thousands of miles of travel, some idiot stood on it? My local sorting office? On the last sampan out of nowhere? Whatever, it didn't look too bad until I noticed this... My apologies, the photo has gone! And so has the box, so I can't retake it! 2/8/21 "The box is bent outward, like it exploded from inside." Let's hope its not something that will give me indigestion after my stir-fry. "They musta broke the mould after they made this piece!" Otherwise, how did they get it out? Yes, I know, everyone is doing slide moulding these days but I'm still impressed with this large lump. It's detailed nicely all over and will simplify my build and keep everything on the square and level. I have astigmatism which makes it difficult to judge angles visually so that's a great help to me. The rivets are huge and crude just like the real thing. The plates have a subtle rolled steel texture. Perhaps too subtle (boring). So I might add a few dings and dents to add a bit of interest. Another photo evaporated. Probs my error, sorry. The back door. Upside down, I now realise. Side plate detail. Look at those 'U' bolts. They will look smashing under paint. And this is the piece that was driven through the roof of the box. It's tiny and by rights, should be flattened entirely. I was lucky. The other side of this idler wheel has deep holes to take the other ends of the broken bars so they will be easy to locate and repair. AS far as I can tell, this is the only other transit damage. I was very lucky but Meng helped by putting it all in a very stout box which sacrificed itself for its plastic contents. That gun's a beauty. I wont be spending days making the track as its a snap together system, similar to the Takom type which I used on a couple of MkIVs last year. An hour tops on assembly and paint it afterwards. Great. This is a mystery. The box art says three schemes are included but doesn't say what. The instructions don't mention any. There's a colour profile page which details two schemes, both British. And the decals have four, including a German Beutepanzer and a Russian version. No worries, I'm doing a British one anyway. I rapidly found the other two online and they are no more exciting than the British one. (This could be a good kit for the 'In the Wrong Hands GB??) So there I have it. I'll shut the laptop and make a start. See you in the morning. p.s. Please feel free to advise me what works well, or not, for you as readers. Are the pictures ok (new camera with the unread instructions and inadequate lighting). Too few or too many photos? Do I ramble on too much? And do please take the thread wherever you want to go, digress, talk to each other, take the mick, have some fun!
  18. My first completion of 2021. Revel 1/72 Sopwith Triplane (mainly) OOB. Rigged with EZline.. Really enjoyed this little kit as a departure from my main theme of Royal Navy Aces (ooops)... Sopwith Triplane N5493 8 Squadron Royal Naval Air Service Saint Eloi, Nord Pas De Calais July 1917 Flight Lieutenant Robert A Little Thanks for looking in
  19. Time on my hands but not able to get to the bench so I decided to go through a few reference books and amongst others decided that I should add these two to my collection. Both are quite diminutive and should be a much easier build than the Nighthawk, so a semi mojo restorer. The PV 7 aka the Grain kitten. A terrible aeroplane with an unreliable engine. Designed to be small enough to launch from a transport ship with a 30hp 2 cylinder engine and a single Lewis gun( not fitted) The PV8 aka the Eastchurch Kitten a great little aeroplane but still an unreliable engine. The single Lewis was fitted to the prototype. Given a reliable engine it would probably have gone into series production. Last up my 1/48 scale drawings drawn from my copy of warplanes of the First World War vol 3. As you can see both fit in an A4 sheet even in 1/48 they’re tiny. More to follow, should start cutting plastic soon.
  20. Been a long while in the works but finally done. known as the flying tank, nicknamed the flying furniture van. Unique in being the only purpose designed army cooperation plane in WWI and extremely successful in its role. Not modelled after a specific machine but hopefully representative of the type. I might just add that the real thing was noted for the roughness of its metalwork and the photos look more like the side of a barn rathan an aeroplane; I think I’ve captured that
  21. Greetings All. For those of you who saw my recent Whippet: and I’m pleased to say that your fantastic feedback has urged me to get cracking with the next proper project. So here we go – obscure WWI scratchbuild!!! I’ve selected this… For a number of reasons: 1. It’s got flat armour. 2. It’s got covered wheels (no spokes) 3. It’s got virtually no info about it available (as far as I can tell). I’m new to scratchbuilding; the Whippet was my first and I don’t have a toolshed full of lovely treats like lathes and milling machines – so everything needs to be do-able with just a few simple tools, especially at the moment under re-located lockdown. Scalpel – check. Pin vice – check. Tweezers – check. Glue – check. Right, let’s get cracking! This vehicle makes it as easy as I can get it, and with very little reference material, who’s to say I’m wrong? No worrying about whether I should model the 1916 pattern leather belt flange spronglets, or the 1915 tin and papier-mache versions with overlapping fringe dongles….. nice! First (and possibly the biggest) challenge – wheels. I used Alexandr Bondar’s excellent card model instructions from the landships II website - http://www.landships.info/landships/models.html# Scaling these up in photoshop to an estimated, and as close as I can get by eye, 1/35 (fingers crossed), the wheels scaled out to 21.6mm internal diameter (inside of the rim), and 28mm external outside of the tyre. As luck would have it, a furtle around in my plumbing spares came up with some 22mm plastic speedfit pipe. The bends and connectors unscrewed to reveal a bunch of 28mm diameter O rings. Sheer luck, but I’m taking it as a good omen. I studied the 3 photos and instructions that appear to be all that is known about this vehicle and concluded that as with most other WWI era British armoured cars, double tyres were installed on the rear wheels, with minimal if no tread. The O rings have it! So far, so good, but a tricky bit had to occur somewhere, and in this case it’s the rear wheel itself. The solid centre of the front wheel is clearly flat, but the thicker rear is dished, with a conical plate – hmm. Not so straightforward. I cut a few over-sized circles and sliced them to make cones. A few experiments and a couple were glued together, held in place while the glue set by mounting them within the cut sections of tube that will form the rims. On releasing them, it was clear that the join wasn’t perfect, tending to meet at an angle rather than curve, so a bit of milliput will be smeared in with plenty of water to smooth it. All this wheel work required a few circles to be cut out of 0.5mm and 0.2mm plastic card. Here’s (one of) the way(s) I do it – pin in a pin-vice, scribed repeatedly ‘round a circle template. Snap out the circle and clean up with sandpaper. All ok so far, but don’t hold your breath – this could take a while…. See you next time!
  22. it’s been over thirty years in the making, the bridge between my first modelling era and my second. It’s almost a scratch build as I’ve only used the fuselage, spinner and wheels with a scratch interior, wings, tail plane. Pretty happy with the result, feels weird to be finished it after so long. One step closer to restoring the balance of power on the WWI shelf. From left to right, ( front row) the Albatros, scratch Pfalz DrI, Sopwith Triplane, scratch Wight quadraplane (back row) DFW Floh, scratch Sopwith Pup, Scratch Sopwith Snark. Next build to finish is my Scratch Junkers JI.
  23. I needed to do something worthy of being shut in so I took the one kit that intimidated me the most and this was it. I just completed this and I am very very happy with the kit from Copper State, it just an excellent kit! Not that this was a simple or easy build - you clearly get your modeling money out of it. I could not get the decals on the roundels to lay down so I took them off and used my circle cutter to mask and spray them (I love that circle cutter). Also, the instructions are lacking in two particular areas, 1) I had some trouble with color call outs for some parts and 2) the rigging diagram for under the wing is lacking. The latter might be something the Copper State could post online as there were references here on Britmodeller when the kit was first announced that helped a bit on this. Anyway, you would think you might need a jig to get this all squared up but the kit is designed such that the struts going through the nacelles and cockpit provide an excellent and very solid connection between the two wings and also the booms are solidly connected. This is just an excellently designed kit comes with an extensive set of photo etch. Odd with all that photo etch there are no seat belts, which would have helped. I could use elastic thread through out the build and did not need to pin any of the struts, they were easy to get into place and solidly connected. Aftermarket, other than Eduard seatbelts is Albion Alloys Brass Tube for turnbuckles (.4MM OD/.2MM ID) with worked very good. Love that stuff as you can score and cut it with an exacto knife without crushing the tube. I added wire pushrods to the engines and rigged with Uschi standard rigging and threaded the top wing connection with 2lb test fishing line. I realize it is not perfect - it is still only a model but it looks cool on the mantel.
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