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  1. Hi All, After completing a couple of stalled aircraft builds, it's time to get back to the maritime builds, not the Fushimi Maru as expected but this most recent arrival of a Churchill Class Submarine in 1/350 by Mikro Mir...FANTASTIC! The mandatory stuff... The box art. Hull sprue and base. The other sprue with the upper casing, sail, planes and masts. Also a PE propeller and some decals. Instructions As you can see, like most submarine kits, it has very few parts, so that means it'll be a quick build right... The box art and decal option is for HMS Conqueror, sister to HMS Courageous but seeing that I served on Courageous, it'll be her that I shall be doing, not that there is any difference except the flying of the 'Jolly Roger'. I have to thank @maarten.schonfeld for helping Mikro Mir and @Terry1954 for also helping to bring it to my attention. Stuart
  2. Hello, gentlemen! A thousand pardons! I've been working on this project for two months now and I've never managed to write anything about it. But my modesty isn't accidental - the project is really daring. Anyway, I haven't done anything like that in my life. So, at the risk of being a bad guy I decided to convert the well-known model HMS Warspite from Academy to HMS Malaya for 1940 in 2 colour alexandria camouflage: (as usual - thanks to @dickrd for the advice) I am planning to use the hull (after some modifications), armament, dinghies (they of course will also need modification) and some details of the lower level superstructure. Also of course photo etched rails, gangways, chains, winches and some other little things will be used. The rest I want to make myself. I must say that nothing is new under the moon and similar work was already done by Phil Reeder in 2014. Giving credit to this brave modeler, I want to end up with a model with more attention to detail. Even if that job takes five years! I'm not in a hurry! ( I will try very, very hard to take my time ). And if I end up being the man began to build and was not able to finish, let my notes help the more persistent follower. Or maybe (you never know?! ) inspire Trumpeter to release a Malaya model in 1/350 What have I been doing for 2 months? I started making the hardest part - the main superstructure. Here's how it looks at the moment: It's far from finished but it's moderately optimistic. All sorts of little things, including a homemade aeroplane (Malaya had Swordfish and not Walrus at this time) and of course homemade sailors in jackets. These are the chains I plan to use: on the right prefabricated anchor chains, North Star, from a set of flat chains from Microdesign I plan to use the thinnest for the paravan. Here is the work plan for the hull: 1. First we need to saw off the boules - they will interfere with the mounting on the stand. We will leave more at bow and stern as I want a rough sea again. 2. Add casemates fore and aft. 3. A lady should have a waist. Warspite has one too! But is it worth messing around with it? Can it be seen only when looking at the model exactly from the stern? Unfortunately, no. It is clearly visible in almost all the Malaya and Barham photos because of the distinctive shape of the rubbish chute: Warspite has that detail in a different location, so the waist is less visible. 4. Next - portholes, exhaust spigots, sheet metal borders etc. sawed off! To be continued
  3. A few weeks ago I started building a 1/700 resin & PE kit of Ark Royal 2, the pioneering First World War seaplane carrier. However, I think it’s fair to say that, as a committed 1/350 man when it comes to ships, I am finding the scale a real challenge. The kit is great, and I will continue to build it... but I find that 45 minutes in teeny-weeny über-delicate brass-land is enough - and when I do achieve things I find that it pays to let everything really cure and stabilise before moving on. Anyway, as those of you who’ve been kind enough to look into that build already know, I have been interspersing WW1 pioneers operating flimsy Shorts & Sopwith machines with experiments with the next Ark, the WW2 aircraft carrier. I have now decided that this deserves a separate thread, before it all gets too confusing. So here we are. This will be the 1/350 Merit kit, released 2 or 3 years ago to a fair amount of excitement from us RN fans, especially RN carrier fans. We understand that market forces mean that yet another Yamato or Bismarck will sell like hot cakes... but even so. I am sure I’m not the only person who finds it utterly weird that model companies will invest in the wherewithal to produce 1/350 kits of, say, Graf Zeppelin (never finished) and even Peter Strasser (barely even started, and never officially named), but not of Illustrious, whose aircraft changed the Mediterranean war in a couple of hours. Still... Nazis sell. So a mainstream kit of a British carrier is something to be celebrated! The Merit kit is... very good, certainly, though not completely without errors. Definitely the basis of a good model. The game changer for me, however, is the Tetra Modelworks detail up set, which takes us to a different league in detail. I have also obtained some other after-market RN detail goodies - notably from North Star: - HACS Mk.IV directors (the Merit ones are basic, to put it mildly, and have a radar which was never actually fitted before Ark’s demise); - winches (to populate the boat bays etc, which are devoid of anything much by way of detail); - RN anchors (one of the most obvious Merit mistakes is that the anchors are much too small); - RN bridge equipment (of which there is none); and - paravanes (US cruiser paravanes, but they’ll look close enough when stowed). This will depict Ark at a very specific moment, at about 1900 on 26 May 1941, as she turned into wind to launch 15 Swordfish of 810, 818 & 820 Naval Air Squadrons on a torpedo attack against Bismarck - the attack that jammed Bismarck’s rudder and sealed her fate. The Merit kit includes 5 Swordfish (plus 4 Skuas & 4 Fulmars, none of which will be used for this build), and I have ordered 2 boxes of Trumpeter Stringbags, which come in batches of 6 (and are by all accounts essentially identical to Merit’s, which is hardly a shock). Anyway. For some discussion of colour schemes and stuff, plus my early test runs with Tetra’s wing fold PE on a Fulmar, see the old thread. This evening, along with a very frustrating session of clumsiness in 1/700, I did manage to get the undercarriage on my test Swordfish (test because I’m playing with ideas for how to improve it... like maybe rigging it): here seen upside down.. ...and here resting on her own two feet: Even this is a right performance: Merit provide the u/c in two parts - a V-shaped part that fits into two holes in the fuselage, and a straight piece with the wheel. Getting them to line up is not simple - though eventually I landed on a technique that seems to work, namely gluing the V-strut first, and only then adding the straight oleo/wheel section. This design means that getting the aircraft level is a challenge - dry fitting completely impractical! The wheels are too thick, I think; I’d already reduced them before fitting, but once everything’s dry I’ll experiment with getting them a bit better yet. But basically it’s a pretty credible Swordfish (or will be with a second wing!), for which kudos to Merit. The next experimental Stringbag will be a folded one. Anyway. We’re off. In due course I’ll show you some more of what comes in the various boxes. More soon Crisp
  4. Well been a bit busy with repairs to conservatory new roof and prep work ready for when the daughter returns from London in the summer she has a new job back up in the North East SEN teacher. Plus my farther has been in hospital for three weeks and cannot see him because of Covid on the ward three days after he went in with a water infection so looking after my Mother.. An elderly gent came into the model club the other week and asked who built model ships to which about 8 fingers pointed at me he then asked if I could build a kit for him as he has Parkinson's and would not be able to build it correctly after about an hour's chat I agreed to build it for him. The gent gave me quite a bit of information on his farther full RN service record and some photos of the ship and crew they were tied in with a group of Ghurkha's special operations he told me and he gave me permission to post on BM while I do the build. The photos show her with the US pennant numbers and colour's so not sure if she would have been repainted he gave me the number of BY2168 so I think she was but not sure If she just wore the G45 light grey scheme the photos I am told are of the ship just outside of Malta Harbour the crew were transported there to and from England to Malta for hand over on HMS Sussex The gent's farther is in the centre of last photo with the Ghurkhas Gun layer was the description the old fella gave me. I think this will be an interesting build and I have to finish as soon as I can lucky it is so small looks more like a 700 scale kit. I have some links for further information cheers @robgizlu http://www.wildfire3.com/byms-home-page.html http://www.navsource.org/archives/11/19idx.htm Stay Safe beefy
  5. After the Graf Spee, what else could I assemble but the HMS Exeter. I got the kit several months ago, and have been adding some aftermarkets for a better experience, like: 1. Eduard Big Ed PE, 2. Infini models Brass Masts, 3. Scale Chain 4. Master Model 8" barrels 5. Master Model 4" barrels 6. Wooden base (same as used for the Graf Spee) it will be a waterline model The length of the HMS Exeter vs the Graf Spee surprised me, it does not seem too much shorter. Marco
  6. Hi All. I have been a member here for a few years, but this is my first time posting. This is also the first ship model I have built as I usually build aircraft, and occasionally armour, cars, sci-fi, etc. I actually started this model nearly three years ago, but I have had a number of breaks from the project during that time, so I am only now on the home straight. I thought some of you might be interested in the build process, so I will try and document what I have done so far over the next few days or weeks and will update it going forward. Apologies if there are a few steps missing, I have not been very consistent with pictures of the build, but I will show you as much as I can. I also have some questions about various details which I am trying to work out. This was originally supposed to be a relatively simple build, using the Tamiya Prince of Wales kit and the Pontos KGV upgrade set. However, due to a lack of detail in the Tamiya kit and a few inaccuracies in the Pontos kit, this project has somewhat spiralled out of control and become much more complex. Because I was not happy with my original painting of the hull, I ended up buying a second POW kit, and in addition to the Pontos set, I have also used Eduard photo etch as well as detail sets from North Star models, WEM, Micro Master and various others. I have also ended up doing quite a lot of scratch building to try and get what I hope is a reasonably accurate model. I decided to depict her in early 1942. The reasons for this were that I didn’t want to do a complex camouflage scheme for my first ship model. I also wanted to include the catapult and Walrus. The catapult was removed in February 1944; however the ship was given a camouflage scheme following the collision with HMS Punjabi in May 1942 and kept this until late 1944. I also prefer the look of the pom-poms to the UP launchers, which were removed in December 1941. This is the best, and pretty much only picture that I have been able to find of the ship during this period and has been my main inspiration for the build. Despite what the text on the picture says, this is in fact KGV, not the Duke of York, although I believe the date is correct. As far as references are concerned, I have the following books, one of which in particular turned out to be less than useful, and hundreds of photos and other information found online, mostly from the IWM. While waiting for the kit to arrive, I made a start on the base. This was a solid piece of oak from an old bookshelf, larger than the model and with a routered edge to allow for a Perspex case. I also added cut-outs under each end to make it easier to lift For the pedestals I used some brass handrail fittings, but cut down to around 4cm high. Next, onto the build Peter
  7. Those of you who know me have already heard about the ludicrous Crisp medical story of 2021, which meant that Ark Royal and P-38F builds ground to a shattering halt for most of the year. Finally, however, I am in a position to start building again, but I find that my mojo to pick up exactly where I left off is wobbly - ironic, given the fact that the P-38 was itself a build kicked off by medical emergencies. After a few days of desultory re-planning and gentle sanding of Ark boats, I have decided to do something completely different. A few of you possibly spotted where I was going when I asked for reference photos just before Christmas (thanks, Evert-Jan!), but for those who didn’t… At Telford I spent a happy half hour talking to the two lovely Dutch guys from Naval Models, and acquired one of their lovely 1/350 S-Klasse / Kortenaer Class “Standard” frigates. My best Naval friend (I’ve been his Best Man… twice!) is a Dutch officer who did an exchange tour in HMS Broadsword when I was Flight Commander in 1989-1991; he will be 60 in a couple of months, so this his present, and will be built as Hr.Ms. Bloys v. Treslong, the ship he joined when he returned to the Koninklijke Marine (Royal Dutch Navy) after his time with us. The kit is very similar in style and quality to Atlantic Models’ RN kits - resin with PE. I’ll be building her pretty much OOB, though I’d say the kit’s main (only major) weakness is the fact that it lacks railings or flight deck nets… so I’ve added one of Pete’s generic “Modern RN railings” sets. And a Master brass barrel for the OTO-Melara gun, cos brass barrels always look better than resin. I actually started 5 or 6 days ago, but so far (as with all resin kits) it’s been wall-to-wall sanding to remove some pretty chunky casting plugs, so nothing interesting to show you. Anyway… The hull, cast in one piece (I’ve sanded away some of the bow-mounted sonar dome to give a bit of stability - she’ll be in a sea scape): Details of Fo’c’s’le: …and Quarterdeck: …in both cases showing some clean-up still needed but excellent quality casting. The various superstructure sections after several hours of work to remove casting blocks: Plus closer view of bridge: …funnel area without and with turbine downtake section (which was different in different ships of the class, so not cast in one piece); …and the aforementioned OTO-Melara 76mm gun with the Master barrel (plus resin shell case ejector carefully shaved from the resin part): …and finally the Goalkeeper CIWS - half-way through building this I realised that the Airfix Lusty has Goalkeepers which are unused in my Ark 5 build, and their barrels are rather nice, especially with added PE bling: So that’s the story so far. Nice to be back. More soon Crisp
  8. And good day again, gentlemen! I'd like to share with you my next build of HMS Cairo 1942, during Operation Pedestal. Though there is little information about how did she look like in terms of armament, boats, radars etc., hopefully that will still be enough to make a fine and a historically accurate model. The kit itself is Trumpeter's 1/350 HMS Calcutta 1940, which is relatively close to what is going to look like HMS Cairo. Some BlackCat details are also with me, including 4-barreled pom-pom, boats and whalers, as well as NorthStarModels HACS Mk.IV, oerlikons by Infiny, lots of doors, portholes, ladders etc... And I've also ordered Shipyardworks 102mm guns and Hunter's wooden deck for HMS Calcutta. This is my first process of highlighting a build of a model, so I'm a bit curious to know, what it is like
  9. Well after a bit of gap in builds ( DIY and decorating for the offspring ) going to make a start on this before I restart my York build. HMS Gorleston Banff Class Sloop 1943 I used the hull on this as an explanation on how to add some hull plating for a build of @Faraway A nice small one to get the MOJO kick started. Hull plating added using a build up of primer and masking tape. This was all sanded back and joint lines filled and re-primed and plated after my quick example was a bit rough so hope this will be a quick one. Stay Safe beefy
  10. Hi guys, welcome to my proposed build for 2021, after I have finished my tug that is. As the title says, this will be a scratch build of the Japanese steam ship, Fushimi Maru. She was laid in 1913, launched in 1914 and her first voyage in 1915. Built primarily for the NYK’s European Routes with a typical routing in the 1920s were Yokohama, Kobe, Moji, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malacca, Penang, Colombo, Aden, Suez, Port Said, Naples, Marseilles, Gibraltar and London. Why may ask, why this ship? It’s a family history connection where sometime after WW1, a Spanish ancestor of my partner, travels from Gibraltar to London. I suggested ‘would you like me to build your Grandma’s ship and here I am, albeit a few years later? Anyways, the Fushimi Maru sailed her European routes until the outbreak of WW2, where upon she was pressed into military service as a troop ship. Unfortunately for her, she was sunk by the submarine USS Tarpon in 1943. Searches found little, most being postcards that show very little detail and images that tend to be from the 1930’s, neither showing the detail needed to reproduce a model of the 1919 era. I did come across this photo a couple of years ago: Once a museum exhibit at the Mariners Museum, Virginia, USA of all places. I approached the museum with the view of getting more details about the model and maker but at the time, my request fell on deaf ears and the project went on the back burner. I tried again a year later and must have contacted the right person at the right time, put my questions forward and to my surprise, the museum sent me a copy of a publication 'International Maritime Engineering' Vol. XX No. 7 and dated July 1915. Struck gold is all I can say, a very useful document indeed containg descriptions of things ranges from berths, holds, engines, boats, winches, etc and also had a Profile and deck plans. Brilliant! Further requests were made about the model or its maker but nothing could be found. I asked about the possibility of photos of the model exhibit and to my surprise, a member of staff was asked to liaise with myself about photos. In the end, I got about 20 images of the exhibit from stem to sten, both sides, with some nice close-ups…and they didn’t ask for a dime and declined a donation. Why can’t more places like this exist? I will be building a waterline model and I don’t think I’ll have any problems with the mid-section or the bow but the stern under section leading to the rudder is problematic to someone who doesn’t have a clue, unclear images or lack of profiles to get the curves. I’m thinking plastic but would wood be a better option for the hull? I chose the scale of 1/350, hoping to find generic offerings to make things easier but it doesn’t seem to be that easy as yet. Later on in the build, I'll be looking at possible cutom 3D options for the winches, custom PE for the davits and as for the boats... Until then. Stuart
  11. This is to give the interesting news that Trumpeter has commissioned a Box Art for a 1/350 Model Kit of the Planned Conversion of the Launched and almost completed ( Admiral Hipper Class Heavy Cruiser ) for the Seydlitz WW2 Warship Hull to be a German Navy Carrier . Tonight Randall confirmed to me it will be Trumpeter of China who will produce it as a kit using the Hull of their Hipper Class and other parts of the Graf Zeppelin ( planes etc ) .
  12. Hello, guys! I would like to present you with a model of the Heavy Cruiser HMS Berwick as of the end of 1940. This is about the size of the cruiser that took part in the Battle of Cape Spartivento. The model is a conversion of the HMS Cornwall from the " Trumpeter". In addition to parts from the kit, photo etched leers, winchs, ladders, oars and flywheels from Aber, Microdesign and Alliance were used. Using these, as well as homebaked parts, the Cornwell is transformed into the Berwick and the detailing is improved. The figures of the sailors in their jackets are self-carved from a sprue. Details of the build are covered here: The model turned out to be somewhat surrealistic for two reasons: firstly, the lack of plausible prototype drawings and the paucity of legible photos. That's why a lot of details and even the paint scheme were a result of guesswork and deduction. And it turned out that I have chosen perhaps the most poorly documented period of service of this ship. I can recommend to future builders of the HMS Berwick to choose the period of late 1941 - early 1942. At least the painting is more or less clear at this time. But I wanted high masts and a wood-coloured deck... Secondly I understand that in fresh weather the dinghies and small guns have to be covered with awnings and the plane is in a hangar. I might learn such restraint at some point, but I'm a novice ship modeller and I want everything at once - waves and planes. After all, the author does have a truth to some artistic generalisation, doesn't he? Another point of discussion: could the autumn storms in the Mediterranean have so ruined the paint on the boards? But one can assume that the paint which was applied in Alexandria in the summer was not of the best quality. The work on the model lasted 1 year and 1 month and on the whole it was a very pleasing experience, although it was not without some tactical problems. The carpet monster was steadily increasing its collection (I do not have a carpet in my workshop, but the Monster is there). Only in the last week of work two figures of sailors and the antenna of the direction finder were missing. Of the large and important parts I lost 2 deflector funnels grilles in one day. One was found later, the other (on the central funnel) ended up standing homemade. But all in all, again, it was fun and ended happily. I love this game! I would like to thank everyone who followed the construction and left encouraging comments. I am especially grateful to @robgizlu whose work inspired me to start building and to @dickrd who helped me sort out many tricky historical questions. Dick is undoubtedly the most knowledgeable person in Royal Navy history who has condescended to speak to me. I would be grateful for any criticism. Happy builds to all!
  13. Hi guy new member here I want to show you guy my newest project. I know there is a lot of incredible Nagato builds out there so i want my Nagato to be difference. So I took the inspiration from the opening scene from the famous WW2 movie " Tora Tora Tora" and recreated into 1/350 scale. It took me an good amount of time and effort to pull this off. In the end more than 450+ figures were use and I most proud is the stern of the ship were in 1939 Yamamoto became commander in chief of the Combined Fleet. I scratch built the entire Marine Band on that one. Thank you for watching and be safe wherever you are and keep modeling. Cheers from Viet Nam
  14. Happy New Year, guys! Inspired by the work of the esteemed Rob, I began to build my version of the heavy cruiser HMS "Berwick" based on Trumpeter's "Cornwall". Doing Berwick for November 1940, before the battle at Cape Spartivento. I would like to make a stormy sea typical for this time of year. Like my previous projects, I plan to use a mini aftermarket details and everything that I can modify myself (I have nowhere to rush!). I also want to make my own crew figures. I think it will not be as difficult as it seems - firstly, in fresh weather there should not be many sailors on deck. Secondly, the figures in storm jackets are not very difficult to make.) Gentlemen! I would be very grateful if someone shares a photo of Berwick. Photos from 1940 are especially interesting. For my part, I share what I managed to find: https://mega.nz/folder/E5cFXArQ#eznRe1pyYHcTpIfYdcBSwg
  15. Good day everyone! Recently have finished the notorious Trumpeter's Tribal-class destroyer kit with a few addings of Micromaster (4.7 inch., 4 inch. HA, Wickers MG), Black Cat Models (general kit for the class), specially ordered decals and others. Besides that I had to slightly raise the bow part of the ship with plastic sheet. 3D kits are amazing, they helped so much in kit's improvement. It's a great pity that we can't afford Micromaster in Russia because of delivery issues... The model is depicting HMS Tartar during her participation in escorting Northern convoy PQ-18 in September of 1942 as a part of Fighting Destroyer Escort. I'm very glad to add my ship to this forum's fleet
  16. So having seen this: http://www.alide.com.br/Artigo/HMS Spartan/HMS Spartan.htm and this: It inspired me to try this: And this: To create this: And this: I'm in the process of correcting the bow to look more like this: This so far: And that's up to date. Here's to finishing it!
  17. With the 8 month long build of County Class Cruisers coming to an end, it's time to move on. HMS Griffin - H31 will be the next, using the Atlantic models HMS Glowworm as base kit. HMS Griffin was one of 8 "G" Class destroyers, the most famous of which is HMS Glowworm due to it's fatal David and Goliath encounter with Admiral Hipper. Griffin was launched in 1935 and took part in the Norwegiain campaign early in the war before being transfered to the Mediterranean. She was transferred to the Royal Canadian Navy in early 1943 and renamed HMCS Ottowa, seeing action at D-day and surviviing the war only to be scrapped in 1946. The G-Class was similar to the D and E classes before and the H and I classes that came after. Here are some pre war pictures that highlight her graceful lines She'll be portrayed in a paint scheme that she wore in lat3 1939/early 1940. There's a profile in Raven's "Warship Perspectives - Camouflage volume One". I've not been able to corroborate this profile with any wartime photographs. I have presumed that the colours are 507C and 507A (darker). There are pictures of her sister ships Garland and Grenade for a similar time period that closley resemble the type of scheme and this rather simple 2 colour scheme was common at early war. If anyone does have pictures - I'd be delighted to see them. Raven mentions that HMS Garland wore a visual IFF symbol on her foredeck consisting of a Type C1 RAF-type roundel. He postulates that others may have worn similar and this is a conceit that I'll use - Griffin will have a C1 roundel. It will add visual interest References will include the aforementioned book , my favourite of the whole series and the hardest to currently come by. I do hope that Dick @dickrd and @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies will have a go at a more up to date publiction at some stage to highlight their wealth of research and re-interpretation of many wartime colour schemes. So let's examine the kit first which comes as HMS Glowworm. I'm not aware of any major structural differences between the 2 vessels. Glowworm comes with Pentad torpedo tubes which she alone trialled. Micromaster supply quad tubes. It's my first Resin kit and my first Atlantic models offering. The moulding is top notch and the hull comes as either water-line or full-hull - your choice. I'm going for waterline and like Berwick - she'll be at anchor There'll be a Micromaster 45ft launch alongside for visual interest - Thanks to Tom and Richard E for pointing me the way of steam tug Simla which is tempting but I feel will detract from the overall impact of Griffin. Those of you who are familiar with Peter Hall kits will appreciate the style of line drawn instructions and comprehensive Photoetch.... The superstructure parts are resiin and the smaller detailed parts - white metal Micromaster will have a big look-in including with more detailed replacement 4.7in guns Pennant numbers will come from the Atlantic models decal sheet And I obtained an Xtradecal sheet of C1 roundels - the only one that does a "C1" roundel that small. Sadly the C1 roundels are significantly out of register. I've ordered another sheet to see if it's replicated and if it is I'll have to think of an alternative There are some immediate problems apparent with simple dry- fitting - the Micromaster turrets impact the superstructure overhang........ And the first order of business will be to shave and remove the bulwarks on the superstructure as they appear on the bridge part - the reason being that the superstructure spans across several generic destroyer classes I don't expect any other major problems. If anyone has any serious qualms about the (unsubstantiated ) colour scheme or the IFF roundel, now's the time to shout! Thanks for looking Rob
  18. Just to give the good news - that Trumpeter of China have released the lovely completed Model in 1/350 Scale open to inspection in Japan of the KuK Viribus Unitis at The 59th All Japan Model & Hobby Show 2019 today enjoy ! ( sorry photo is not clearer - it was taken from Facebook's page for Trumpeter )
  19. G'day All, I just finished my first ship! Tamiya's 1/350 Musashi. Built mostly OOB. I did use photoetch on the aircraft catapult's and the aircraft propellers. Bit of rigging done with elastic thread. All brush painted with Tamiya acrylic's (that's a first for me, I'm an enamel man.) Cheers, Devo
  20. These 1/350 Flower Class corvettes seem to be very popular with White Ensign Models doing a photo-etch upgrade set. However they seem to have a reputation for being a struggle to build. This is my first 1/350 model with HMS Kent waiting in the wings for some pedestals before attacking that. I love the Mountbatten pink scheme portrayed here The colur profile bids you use B20 as the contrast colour, though the text I feel rather more correctly, suggests MS2, more fitting with an early war scheme around 1940/41. Despite extensive searching I can find no original wartime pics of Anchusa in the mast afore the bridge configuration. The kit immediately benefits from the various porthole/scuttles being drilled out As do the Depth charge "doors" at the stern The depth charges have very raised mount bases on this kit that need immediate removing... 2 portholes need adding on the rear superstructure Further inital clean up involves drilling windows in the stack mount section and removign some veery clunky plastic steps And you've guessed it - more drilling to drill out skylights The wheel house has moulded in windows that most finished models on the web seem to have kept - I think drilling these out will be well worth it The hull/deck marriage needs a lot of filing to get a good fit - The forward deck insn't secured yet The plan is to mount this on a "Flodberg" type water base - My styrofoam sits waiting. BTW - do you cut or saw Styrofoam? More soon - more perhaps than was originally planned as a trip to the white stuff next week has been cancelled today due to Covid 19 And BTW 2 - I took delivery of some 3D printed itmes from "micromaster.co.nz" mainly for HMS Kent but some Carley rafts, dinghies and the 4" gun for Anchusa. I've been sniffy about some of Shapeways offerings to date....... OMG These items belong to a different generation - as others have said the level of detail is just astonishing More soon - Thanks for looking Rob
  21. Let the whistle blow on this build - I've been accumulating pieces for some months. There's still not a dedicated etch set though White Ensign Models have heavily hinted. There are however, sets for HMS Cornwall that she shared most characteristics with. This Family of 13 Cruisers were built in the 1920's under the limits of The Washington Naval Treaty 1922, with an upper weight limit of 10,000 tons. HMS Kent was launched in 1926 and spent the pre war years largely on the China Station. She diiffered from others such as HMS Berwick and Cornwall with never having a seaplane hangar built due to weight limitation. A major refi tin 1937/8 saw her fitted with a Walrus capable Catapult and Trumpeter present her largely in this guise with a minor upgrade seeing 6-7 20mm Oerlikons fitted in 1941, being encompassed. 1941/2 saw her operate out of Scapa Flow and largely take part in Arctic convoy duties. She is well represented in photographs from that time period - largely from the Imperial war Musuem Collection, and is portrayed in Camouflage typical of that period. References will include the following - but if anyone can direct me to further - I'd be indebted The kit box features attracive cover art and is suitably voluminous. Aftermarket goodies iclude most of the following with more to come (Sadly Micromaster.co.nz operatiosn are currently suspended due to CV19 Lockdown) Kit instructions are B&W line drawn With an attractive and broadly helpful Colour profile though I'm well aware of Trumpeter's lack of accuracy with suggested colour schemes! There is an excellent on line resource WW2 Cruisers and Battleships with some extremely attractive Colour profiles from Mr Eric Leon. I have permsiion from Mike at the site to share the 1941 profile. Please check the site out for other very interesting schemes including those for HMS Kent before and after 1941. I am very grateful to the site and Mr Leon I'm broadly happy that she is painted in 507c (very light) with MS1 (darkest) mid hull patches that that are themselves surrounded by B5/15 (lightish in some of the original photos). She has unequicovally dark painted decks that I take to be the Sovereign equivalent of NARN 2 The only real issue for me is what colour is portrayed at bow and stern. It's darker than the B15 but lighter than deck or MS1. This leaves MS2, 507A or possibly MS3? Mr Leon opts for MS2 though this has very little contrast with MS1 Any thoughts Jamie or Richard? Here are the original pictures...all gratefully attributed to and with sincere Thanks to the Imperial War Museum Collection And aren't they beautiful pictures! My feeling is that bow and stern is Not MS2 but most likely 507C and possibly MS3 which would give the greatest contrast with the mid hull MS1/B5. So here's what the Hull looks like I applaud the protective wrapping that Trumpeter use And to get an idea of size there's little HMS Anchusa next to it (Still 1/350) The model will be mounted on plinths - and I anticipate no obvious build problems or need to scratch along the way. The Micromaster parts will suitably "pimp" it up. Weathering will be light to moderate. The Hull painting will come first which is why I'm keen to get a paint plan in my mind. As ever thanks for looking Rob
  22. Hi there, I want to share with you guys the photos of my model of HMS Abercrombie monitor depicted as she looked like in the summer of 1943 during the Sicily landings. I used the plastic from Trumpeter kit, photoetched parts from Microdesign (ramps, ladders, hand winches), figures from Eduard, and Oerlikons from Alliance. I had neither ability nor desire to use a lot of additional parts, so I modified the provided 4'' AA guns mounts, pom-poms, lifeboats, and life rafts by my own hands for so much as my limited talents made it possible. Also I made by myself the figures of gunners for the twin Oerlikons and watch officers on the bridge, at rangefinders and in directors (it would be very hard to make the figurines from Eduard to sit or to stand in dynamic postures). In the end of the day, the process of building this model gave me a lot of fun during the quarantine this spring and left me with a thought about modeling a more elegant ship next time. I'll be happy if you guys provides any kind of feedback (even the most non-constructive critique), but can't pledge to be always polite in my answers
  23. Hello everyone, I have been a long time lurker, but I've just plucked up enough courage to post one of my own builds, H.M.S. Cornwall by Trumpeter, and Eduard's Big Ed kit, chinese barrels and wooden decks. I know there will be discrepancies and mistakes made not just by me, but Trumpeter and Eduard too, but this I'm not here to discuss them just now. Oh and this is the first model I have made for about 15 years and the first time I've ever used P.E.! I have to say I did really enjoy building it, even though, at times i found the PE kit incredibly frustrating and fiddly ( sausage fingers, shaking hands and complete ineptitude when it comes to rigging.)
  24. This was a fun little painting project as a diversion from Cruiser modelling. The quality of the 3D printed models are just excellent and it was a chance to try out some North Star figures. Paints are Sovereign Colourcoats and Vallejo. The funnel stays were a trial and that was the thinnest stretched sprue I could manage. The B6 (light blue) boat has no rudder as this will be planted in the Berwick dio Thanks for looking Rob
  25. This build thread describes the construction of a 1/350 scale model of HMS Prince of Wales (R09) which was displayed by Airfix at SMW 2019, Telford where I am shown with Darrell Burge, Hornby Brand Manager: Background to this build In April 2014, the Royal Navy contacted Airfix to commission a model of HMS Queen Elizabeth (R08) that was under construction in Rosyth Dockyard. Airfix asked me to scratch-build a 1/350 model which was subsequently displayed at the naming ceremony of HMS Queen Elizabeth in Rosyth on 4th July 2019. Thereafter it’s permanent home was the Wardroom of HMS Queen Elizabeth: Pic 001: In April 2019, I was again commissioned by Airfix, this time to scratch-build a 1/350 model of HMS Prince of Wales, the second of the Queen Elizabeth Class aircraft carriers. It would be shown at SMW 2019, Telford and thereafter it’s permanent home would be the Hornby Hobbies Visitor Centre in Margate. I hope that you enjoy following this build which may seem a bit unconventional in some parts. There were some problems to overcome but the worst difficulty was having to cope with severe concussion that I suffered five weeks before Telford. It was touch and go as to whether I would complete it in time but I only managed it by leaving off photo-etch and some other small details. To use an old Chinese proverb “a journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step”. This is the first of many sheets of plastic card used in the build: Pic 002: Although this build would be constructed mainly of plastic card, I would be using a Tamiya 1/350 USS Enterprise hull to give it some inner strength. The hull was shortened in length, all sponsons removed and keel removed and openings blanked off with plastic card. Plastic card was used to fill in the missing parts of the sides and clamped. Note that I have used the cut out section of hull to brace the new join of the midships and aft sections of hull: Pic 003: Forward section (bow excluded) glued in place: Pic 004: Putting aside the hull to dry, I cut out the Flight Deck. Being 80cm long, it would be a right handful in the confines of my modelling den: Pic 005: This situation was made worse by the fact that I was building two at once (a waterline version for myself) Pic 006: Once the hull had dried, I drilled four holes which were fitted with four 80mm M6 bolts epoxied in place. The model was then secured to a temporary chipboard base that would be used until the final day of the build (the Flight Deck hasn’t been glued in place yet): Pic 007: The most complicated part of this build is the construction of the Forward (Ship Control) and Aft (Flyco) Islands. Because of this, I decided to build the islands for both ships at the same time. Here are the Aft Islands: Pic 008: The plastic card is rather thin (0.20mm) and requires plenty of framing to prevent "dishing" of the panels: Pic 009: Pic 010: Here the two islands have been placed on the Flight Decks of the two builds. You can see the full-hull version to the rear: Pic 011: Bit more work: Pic 012: I do like using lots of filler: Pic 013: Sanding of filler was completed and then I moved onto the assembly of the Flying Control Rooms: Pic 014: I did consider having acetate glazing but after some experimentation I decided that it would not be easy to do a good job: Pic 015: Another view showing the multiple facets of the Aft Island: Pic 016: View from ahead: Pic 017: Having applied filler to the Aft Islands again, I started construction of the Forward Islands (Ship Control): Pic 018: I just can’t leave the Aft Islands alone. The filler around the Flying Control Rooms (FCRs) has been sanded and I have been adding some of the many platforms: Pic 019: Filler applied and sanded again. You can see that I have also added window wiper boxes above where the FCR windows will go: Pic 020: I then cut some "T" section plastic strip to go around plastic card discs to represent the platform for the Type 997 Artisan 3D Radar. Hopefully, when painted the ends of the "T" will look like thin rods like on the original: Pic 021: They were then glued in place and I started on the platform on the starboard side of the Aft Island: Pic 022: Once the platform had been sanded I started on the overhang of the Bridge on the starboard side. As you can see, I have glued strips of plastic card to the bulkhead first and built the overhang around them: Pic 023: One of the islands once the overhang has been completed: Pic 024: Green blobs on the Aft Island denote the locations of watertight doors: Pic 025: WEM watertight doors have been glued in place on the Aft and Forward Islands. Note that the watertight doors do not sit flush with the bottom of the bulkheads but are raised slightly: Pic 026: Taking a break from the island activity, I turned to the stern. The transoms for both versions were fabricated and the various openings cut and drilled: Pic 027: Turning to the hull briefly, I screwed hardwood dowelling inside the hull to give it some rigidity, a necessity as the plastic card is more flexible than the original dark grey plastic. The silver fitting at the stern is only temporary and supports the stern ensuring that the top of the hull remains horizontal. It will be removed once the ship is bolted to a temporary base: Pic 028: The full-hull version will be permanently mounted on a base 800mm long and here I am drilling the locating holes for the 80mm M6 bolts. The base won’t be fitted until the very end of the build: Pic 029: I have started to apply mahogany stain. So far I have applied three coats but I will need another two coats. Once finished the base was stored safely until needed: Pic 030: Now the base has been fitted I turned my attention to the Flight Deck and here I have marked the outline of the hull: Pic 031: I glued pieces of plastic card to the underside of the Flight Deck which ensure that the hull will be correctly aligned: Pic 032: First piece of Flight Deck glued in place. Note the plastic card "tab" glued to the front of the Flight Deck that will support the midships section of Flight Deck: Pic 033: The midships piece of Flight Deck glued to the hull and clamped. I couldn't resist putting the Islands on: Pic 034: Bow section of the Flight Deck has been glued in place: Pic 035: That's all for now. Dave
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