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PeterMachin

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About PeterMachin

  • Birthday 05/30/1987

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  1. Just a small update this time. First off are the paravanes. There are not many options for aftermarket paravanes, and I couldn’t find any for the Royal Navy. I ended up getting the medium USN ones from North Star Models. The ship carries four paravanes all sat next to each other just behind the forward breakwater. The space on the model is about 19mm wide, however the North Star items are each around 6mm wide, so four of them won’t fit. I saw the plans that @foeth made for his build on his website and those give a width of about 1.5m, or just over 4mm in 1/350 scale. This fits in the space and seemed to match the photos, so I modified the north star parts to match. I replaced the PE “wing” with some 0.13mm styrene sheet and adjusted the other parts to fit this. Here they are painted And installed, along with the forward Oerlikons I also painted and installed the rear Oerlikon in the old UP launcher shield That’s all for now Cheers Peter
  2. @Rich75 Thanks for posting that picture. I think it is ok if you just put the copyright info from the image properties below the picture, in this case it would be © IWM (A 4233). That looks like a Balsa Raft in that picture - https://ontheslipway.com/balsa-raft/ https://micromaster.co.nz/collections/royal-navy-ships-boats/products/1-350-royal-navy-10ft-working-dinghy-balsa-rafts-x4#sidr On KGV, I believe that was here: © IWM (A 4716) © NMM (NPB5315) For the hull plating, I used embossing label tape, which is quite a hard plastic and quite thick, so it gives a good edge for the tool to run along. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airmall-Compatible-Replacement-Embossing-Self-Adhesive/dp/B09JNVBLVF/ref=sr_1_10?crid=H4JVHXG6T807&keywords=dymo+tape&qid=1658660220&sprefix=dymo+tape%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-10 Cheers Peter
  3. Thank you. Yeah of course, it would be good to see what you have
  4. @TomTango I look forward to seeing your thread. I have no problem using this thread for research type stuff. You are right about the KGV seeming to be "busier". Some of that will be down to when photos were taken, for example photos of a VIP visit will show the ship much tidier than photos then the ship is in dock or taking on stores. Also, I suspect that as the design of the ship evolved, better places were found to store equipment, or items were found to be redundant and not needed at all. It looks like one of the biggest difference is the lack of Carley floats mounted on the vertical surfaces of the superstructures. Looking at photos of POW, they tended to be stacked up on the deck. I would suspect this was a decision by the designers or builders, rather than the crew. © IWM (A 3872) © IWM (A 4957) I have spent a lot of time looking through the IWM archive as that seems to be the most reliable source of photos of the ships, which are mostly properly organised and referenced. In addition to 500 or so photos of KGV, I also found quite a few of the sister ships, including POW. These are ID numbers of the pictures of the POW that I found, though I am sure there are more https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections A3867 to A3881, A3890 to A3927, A4232, A4233, A4954 to A4959, A4977 to A4992 The space between the hangars is where the catapult controls were © IWM (A 3631) © IWM (A 3451) On the plans there looks to be a small room behind this, then the exhaust going up to the funnel. There could have been an alternative entrance to the hangars, but I am not sure © NMM (NPB5309) With regards to refuelling, I am not sure about that, but I have just found a picture on this website http://www.holywellhousepublishing.co.uk/Lawson.html (around 2/3rds of the way down) of the KGV apparently refuelling a smaller ship. The hose is connected somewhere on the catapult deck. Hope there was something useful there Cheers Peter
  5. Hi Rob. Thank you for your very kind comments and advice. I had assumed that the "object" was made of steel and was some sort of weight related to the catapult, however your ideas have got me thinking and it does look like it could be some sort of wooden float or pontoon . Whatever those things are though, they do appear to be included in the plans, so are presumably a permanent part of the ship's equipment. If I wasn't so cheap and actually bought a copy of the plans, I would probably find that the text next to them explains exactly what they are © NMM (NPB5309) I have made a couple of them but will hold off painting and installing them for now As for the boat colours, I am leaning towards the ship's hull colour for most of them. I like the idea of doing a captain's barge in blue, although as a flagship, would she have had an admiral's barge, which I am sure I read somewhere should be green? Thanks @TomTango for your comments, I am flattered that you are finding it useful and please let me know if you want me to explain anything in further detail. I am always interested to see other people's take on this model, and your other builds are really excellent, so please post it if you can. Cheers Peter
  6. I haven't got an update this time, but I am looking for some help. I am now at the stage where all of the larger assemblies are completed, and I just have a few of the smaller details still to build and paint, however for some of these there is not much information available, at least not that I have found. I thought it would be easier to put some of these queries into a single post. 1. Does anybody have any clear photos or knowledge of the area on the aft side of the catapult deck? It looks like it was a storage area, and sometimes had one of the 32’ Cutters stored there. These are the best pictures I have found, but they don’t give a good overall view of the area. © IWM (A 3632) © IWM (A 3696) © IWM (A 3658) © IWM (A 3700) 2. Any ideas what this is, what it was used for, how many there would have been, what colour it was, etc? © IWM (A 2871) In this picture it looks like there might be two of them in the same area 3. What colours were the ships boats? The interior and upper structures look to be a mixture of varnished wood and white, I am guessing wood for high wear areas and white for low wear areas © IWM (A 4993) But I am not sure about the hulls. Are they grey, either the same grey as the ship or a lighter grey, or are they another colour? These pictures from Portsmouth Historic Dockyard Boathouse No 4 show a 45’ medium picket boat with a dark green hull and a 25’ fast motor boat with a red hull, but obviously those are modern restorations. (https://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/portsmouth-historic-dockyard-boathouse-no-4/22776) I hope somebody can shed some light on these queries Thanks in advance Cheers Peter
  7. Whoops, thanks for pointing that out, I have gone back and corrected the original. Also, thanks for the kind comments. As for the front superstructure, I painted it broken down into a number of sub-assemblies. All of the smaller details were added before painting, only the primary and secondary directors, the stairs, and the Oerlikons were added after painting. The main breakdown was as follows: Deck to Signal Platform - I separated the hangar from the rest of the superstructure to make painting and assembly easier. The admirals bridge plus compass platform - I separated the compass platform from the rest of the upper bridge as the Pontos set is attached to both parts The Upper Bridge And this part which sits under the main gun director. This needed to be separate to allow the upper bridge to be removed Painting it this way only left me with one unavoidable visible join, but I felt this was an acceptable compromise considering how difficult it would have been to paint those part if they were attached together Let me know if you want any further details Cheers Peter
  8. It is a couple of months since my last post and I have not been doing much modelling. I lost some motivation for it and I have been distracted by other things However in the last few days I have picked it back up again, so this is just a short update. I have started on the last few parts which need to be made First off is the aft UP launcher shield which was repurposed into a Oerlikon mount (Thanks for the reminder @dickrd). This was included in PE in the Pontos set, but it did not include the supports or the cut-outs on the top which were added when it was repurposed. I decided to make it from styrene sheet, but used the base of the PE version to give it some texture The other things I have managed to make a start on are the davits At this time in her career, the KGV had 14 permanently mounted davits in two different sizes. There were four either side of the forward superstructure, two larger ones for handling of the 32’ life cutters, and two smaller ones for accommodation ladders. The larger ones were removed at some point before 1945, probably when the boat deck was moved. On the aft deck, there were three of the smaller davits either side of Y turret © IWM (A 4716) The davits which came with the model were okay size wise, but they were extremely simple and there were only three of them included I also have some PE ones from MK1 which seem to be quite accurate and detailed, but are obviously very flat and didn’t really look right I decided to scratch build them. For the main arm I used 0.5mm brass tube. I put a slight taper on this by mounting it in my Dremel and using sanding sticks to sand it down. It was then curved round a larger tube and cut to size The real ones are mounted on a simple bracket which allow them to be lowered when not in use. © IWM (A 3708) I used some 1x1mm brass U-channel to recreate this. I drilled a hole through the middle to accept a piece of wire which was used to hold all of the parts together These are all the parts, plus a completed one. I used a 1/48 eyelet from @Bobs_Buckles, a shorter length of tube and some PE washers I made a couple of deployed ones as well as the larger type, which basically the same, but just had some extra detail added using 0.7mm tube Next I need to make the support stands for them © IWM (A 3708) I am going to attempt to make my own photo etch for these, so wish me luck Cheers Peter
  9. This is the final part before you are up to date, the painting. I have been painting everything else in a similar way to the hull, base colour, post shading, wash and dry brush. Details have mostly been brush painted in acrylics or enamels, although I did use Molotow for the searchlight reflectors. The forward Superstructure The main guns with Pom-Poms A couple of the secondary guns Some of the deck details painted and installed, including the breakwater, vents, capstans etc Making a start on the paravane chains And with the anchors painted and installed The aft Oerlikon arrangement, though missing the old aft UP launcher mount The boat deck and aft funnel painted and installed I am always looking to enhance parts where I can and I came across a company called Prop Shop (https://www.prop-shop.co.uk/index.php) which makes bronze and steel propellors for RC boats. The smallest propellors they make are 0.5 inch diameter, which are almost exactly the correct size for the KGV class, the full size being 14.5ft. I had a chat with the owner Simon and he was able to reshape the boss of the standard scale props to add a pointier profile. The main issue I had was that the diameter of the boss was noticeably smaller that the propellors which came with the kit. This meant that they looked odd when installed. I tried to compensate for this by putting a chamfer on the prop shaft support, but it didn’t look great. In the end I decided to completely rebuild that section, with new supports from brass tube and new struts from styrene sheet. Doing all this and trying to avoid damaging the paint too much was a challenge, but I think it looks fairly seamless. The last thing to share are these little covers I built for the rear hatches. Cheers Peter
  10. The instructions are available from links on this page: http://www.hobbydecal.com/detail.cgi?number=35013f1 Hope that helps
  11. Let’s look at the last few major assemblies before we move onto painting and assembly. First up, the main guns There is not too much to say about these. I used a mixture of Pontos and Eduard parts. I used the Pontos barrels, but the PE was from Eduard. I just glued the barrels in place rather than using the complicated PE bracket from Pontos which is supposed to allow the individual barrels to move. The secondary armament was similar, with Pontos barrels and PE. I did scratch build a few smaller details I said earlier on that I wasn’t very happy with the Pontos cranes. The control part is too small and not particularly accurate. I had a go at scratch building it I used the main boom from Eduard and the jib? is from Pontos. Additional scratch built detail has been added for the various motors and cable reels The anchors were from North Star, and the chains were from YX Model Cheers Peter
  12. Hi Rich. I don't have any particularly good photos of what I did inside the funnels (they are now painted black, so it is impossible to take a photo), these are probably the best I have However, I did just use the Pontos parts, and these are pictures from the instructions which are a bit clearer http://pontosmodel.com/manual/35013f1-page4.pdf The forward funnel has a grid arrangement inside which could easily be replicated this styrene sheet. The aft funnel has a walkway which would be a bit more difficult to replicate. In the real funnels there are some smaller tubes which I replicated with Brass round and square tubes. Cheers Peter
  13. A couple of you @Boydie & @Adm Lord De Univers have asked for a quick guide about how I did the hull plating. It is not too difficult, just quite time consuming. I used two methods. The first was using a micro chisel (Master Tools 09924) to replicate the overlapping plates, the second was to use a scribing tool (I just used a Tamiya p cutter) to highlight the other panel joints. This is a basic diagram of the process for creating the overlapping plates, scraping away the plastic with a chisel to create raised panels and using Dymo embossing tape as a guide This is a section view of the finished result You first need to mark out where the plating needs to be, checking references. I have highlighted the areas I will scrape away to avoid any confusion. On a complex hull shape, I found it easiest to fix the hull to the base, and use a waterline marker to draw horizontal lines round the hull. For vertical lines, I used an engineers square resting on the base and lined up with the hull Once the panels were marked out, I applied the tape around the panels, one section at a time. The tape can usually be reused a number of times before it loses its adhesion, though I still got through around three rolls in total. I didn’t use genuine Dymo tape, and instead bought some cheap stuff on Amazon, but it worked absolutely fine. With the tape in place, you just start scraping. Holding the chisel at an angle as shown below, start in the corner and scrape along the length of the tape. To begin with, do a couple of light passes. Remove the tape from the length you have done and check how the depth is looking. Give it a couple more passes if needed, or move onto the next side. It is not an exact science and it just takes some time to get a feel for it. The key thing is to try and keep it consistent across the whole hull. One thing to remember is that if you do go too deep, you can always sand down the remaining plastic slightly to even it out. Also, maybe practice on something else first, though make sure the plastic has the same hardness as the kit. Do the horizontal and vertical lines, then once the tape is removed you can use the chisel to carefully tidy up the corners. Once all of the overlapping panels are done, I just completed the rest of the panel lines with the scribing tool, but again using the tape as a guide. For the bottom of the hull I only used the scribing tool, as I didn’t have any references for this area. Also the interface between the sides and bottom of the hull was a challenge. Then it is just a case of tidying up. I had some adhesive from the tape left which had to be removed and I gave it a light sand to smooth out any scratches. I also needed to fill in and re-scribe a couple of mistakes I made. Please let me know if you have any other questions about this process, or anything else in the build. Cheers Peter
  14. Thanks. I will try and put together a quick step-by-step guide over the weekend.
  15. Onto the painting of the hull. Thanks to the research done by @dickrd, we now know, or can be pretty certain, that the KGV had grey antifouling paint throughout her wartime career. This is as opposed to the red lower hull colour that she has typically been depicted with. The new paint scheme requires 507A above the waterline and Moravia anti-fouling grey below the waterline, with the steel decks in a darker grey. @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies has produced some updated profiles of the ship with this new colour scheme which are on his website (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0730/0927/files/HMS_King_George_V_d30f2632-6959-4556-a404-df33fd36fcb0.pdf?v=1626514863). Over the last couple of years, I have switched from acrylic to lacquer paints as I find them much easier to apply and much tougher, which makes handling easier. I did consider using Colourcoats as they seem to be the most accurate colour wise, however I have had some issues with enamels in the past and didn’t fancy switching from my tried and tested MRPs for this model. After testing various colours I have in my collection, I decided to use MRP-115 RAF Ocean Grey as a substitute for 507A, and MRP-039 Haze Grey as a substitute for the Moravia Antifouling. These seemed to be a pretty close match to the profile colours, and after weathering they would be significantly different anyway. Now that the painting is done, the Haze Grey seems a little too light and a little too blue compared to Jamie’s profiles, but I am not going to change it now. First I put down Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Grey as a primer, thinned with MLT. I then used a slightly lightened black MRP as a base colour. I masked off the boot topping and sprayed the other two colours. In terms of weathering, I wanted to keep it quite light as she had only recently completed a major refit and reference pictures don’t show much wear and tear at all, particularly above the waterline. The following pictures show her after the collision with HMS Punjabi. They show a reasonable amount of scraping of the antifouling. Some of this may be from the collision, but pictures of other ships show similar patterns of wear (https://imodeler.com/2017/09/ship-weathering-inspiration/). © IWM (A 9951) © IWM (A 9950) I tried to replicate this wear by very lightly running a fine grit sanding stick along the hull from front to back, being careful to remove as little of the top coat as possible to allow the dark grey base to show through. I then used the light Flory wash to simulate some salt deposits but removed most of it with a fairly wet cloth, leaving only a little behind. I had also applied the dry transfers for the depth markers which I attacked with a sander to give a worn look below the waterline. Next, I had my second attempt at salt staining. This time using white oil paint, removed with a nearly dry brush. I am much happier with it this time as it is a bit less uniform and quite translucent. To finish off this area, I sprayed a very light and random coat of heavily thinned XF-71 along the boot line to replicate algae growth. It is pretty much impossible to see, but does give a slight green tinge to this area. Once the lower hull had been complete, I weathered the upper hull. I kept it simple with just a little post shading with a slightly lighter mix of the grey, then a light oil wash of dark grey, and then finished with some dry-brushing. At this point I was calling the hull pretty much done, so I glued in place the hangar and secondary gun mounts and finally applied the deck. The hangar and gun mounts were given the same treatment as the upper hull, with the same weathering applied. The steel decks were painted with XF-24 thinned with MLT. The wooden deck was first sealed with lacquer matt varnish (MRP-127). I then gave it a very light dusting of thinned light grey acrylic to tone down the bright wood colour, then I sprayed a slightly darker colour in a few key areas to simulate dirt and shadow. As you can see in the pictures below, this was in places such as around the Oerlikons, around the catapult and under the breakwaters. I also generally made the front of the ship a little darker than the rear as this would get the most wear and tear. Most of this weathering was actually completed before the deck was installed, with just a few bits done afterwards. The final bit of weathering on the hull was some rust around the hawsepipes and on the paravane foot. Cheers Peter
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