neilh

I have recently picked up a Classic Airframe rag wing Hurricane. I have built one before as a Finnish example. Overall it was a decent kit , but a real sea of flash so I used some spare cockpit parts from a trashed Italeri Hurricane and replaced the U/C with metal replacements which for minimal cost saved me a load of boring clean up. Since this one was apparently clearly based upon the Hasegawa kit, I was wondering how close the design is such that O could try to pick up a Hasegawa kit that sometimes pop up at a reasonable price and then use this to kit bash with the CA kit , saving myself a lot of time for a better result ( fortunate to have more spare cash than spare time). I do have a built Hasegawa kit but because I cleaned up the seams pretty well I cannot work out if the wing roots and under fuselage cut outs are in the same place! I know both kits have some inaccuracies but I can live with most of those and try to correct any I can't . I have read that the Hasegawa kit has the underside join through a fabric section but the CA cut is on a panel line. Has anyone given this a go or measured up the parts to see if it would work?

If you use a very dark grey/almost black, you can then use pure black washes to pop out the detail. A dry brush with a lighter grey will get it looking pretty much like the real thing. I'm not sure they were as battered as the ones we see in museums when in service use, at least earlier in their careers.

Very nice indeed with really subtle treatment for the weathering on the upper surfaces. We could be looking at a photo of the real thing there.

what is the planned finish - what markings do you intend to paint? There may well be a decal instruction sheet that will cover stencils and markings for you.

Have you checked out the Hataka sets. This is the lacquer set I have been using for both a D520 and a Caudron . https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/early-wwii-french-airforce-set-orange-line-lacquer-hataka-htk-cs16/

Montex did a set for the If- I used on my " Finnish " example. Hannants still have them. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/MXSM48287?result-token=5qYni

I suspect it would be easier to cut your own masks than try to adapt those from another kit. I think EZ Masks (http://ezmasks.com/aircraft.html) made sets for the HC kits- maybe you could track a set of those down. The Zoom set could as the other poster said probably be adapted, certainly the seat belts, although the HC kits usually have moulded belts on the seat.

I have the Indian roundels and fin flashes from the 1/48th Academy Mig 21 MF if that's any help? The orange seems a little bright and I have no idea of how well they settle down etc but if you want them send me a PM. Visible from around 6 1/2 mins in this video.

also, according to a build in the latest airfix magazine, the bomber kit canopy has been carried over from the fighter kits so has a frosted pane that should be clear.

Thanks for all the great feedback - very interesting indeed.

I recall being told to step on to the reinforced walkway ( for the front " pupil" cockpit) but looking at the enlarged picture, it may be the angle of the shot but it looks to be a challenge getting in the back without stepping on the " no step" area! I must re watch the TV show on catch up with Guy Martin as I think they show both him and his instructor getting into the Tiger Moth.

Hi Mike, I found a picture just know after a rummage showing me in the front seat of G-APAO at Duxford in full Biggles gear and clearly both port hatches are down and the starboard one are up. I could cut the Stbd ones out carefully but suspect the doors themselves will be damaged a bit as even the finest razor saw or scriber will remove some of the edges of the door itself.

Just starting a double build of the 1/48thAiirfix kit and am pondering if I want to open the entrance hatches. I treated myself to the Eduard "Look" IP's and seat belts so it might show these off a little better, but the Airfix kit allows the starboard side to be opened up only. I'ts been a while but I feel reasonably sure that when I took a flight from Duxford we got onboard from port, and that's the "traditional " way in for aircraft? Looking at many pics on line, there are plenty of shots of both sides being used, maybe with a few more on the port than starboard. I could buy the replacement CMK set that has all four doors, but would access from the right be usual for a Tiger Moth?

have a look at the Rumourmonger section - it was covered on there - sprue shots etc. Also check Hyperscale forums for more discussion and analysis. Looks very nice indeed.

Thanks Jamie, I know Rupert had a disruptive scheme at one point as I have seen one photo online. My Grandad served on her since collection from the USA until the end of the War, but most of the photos I have been able to find of Rupert were when she served with the 21st Escort group as in the picture shared, so that is the scheme I am aiming for. Will shop later this morning once pesky work conf calls are over!

Would the reference source from Sovereign also be an appropriate one for a "Buckley" based Captain Class DE? Still planning the build of my Grandads ship HMS Rupert so happy to invest the £9.99 for a download if it is.

First full build review in this months Airfix Modelworld magazine. Looks really nice built up. Sure there will be plenty of aftermarket in due course but the interior and engine details looks more than adequate for the scale and the " black painted pit". The lap belts are moulded to the seat cushions, but adding shoulder harnesses or lap belts without the cushion a la Air Cadets will be easy enough. The builder notes the jig for the canopy is useful but hinted at still having to take real care with the Tamiya liquid cement. They also stated that the canopy fitted better in the open than closed position, at least in their experience.

There was a good build review in Scale Aircraft Modelling some years ago. I kept a copy as I also have this kit in my stash. Let me see if I can find it and scan it. I recall the builder replaced the intake with some tube taken from a thick felt tip to give some depth and adjusted the nose gear for personal preference ( he turned the nose wheel off of centre). My test fits show the fit to be very good for a limited run kit, and the Czech models I have built the resin has fitted well almost without any fettling. I think the panel lines are very petite so I would probably scribe them deeper before construction.

Hi David, I built the 1/48th Fly model as a Saudi example. What do the Omani decals look like? If I have them you can use them. PM me.

although kit bashing these two together sounds possible and maybe a fun experiment ( I too have both the Airfix and CA kits), this is where we need someone like Aerocraft to produce a nice clear cut and shut nose in clear resin if there were enough of us willing to buy one!

Your post reminded me. I also found myself smiling as I built mine. I was also building a Tamiya D520 at the same time and both kits were such a joy after some other "nasty" builds they really lifted my mood.

Like Seawinder I have only built the Airfix kit, quite recently and recall a joyous build. The nose area is a little fiddly with the multiple inserts but otherwise a really good fit and easy build. Cockpit had a few ejector pin parks in the sidewalls that needed filling but are not easily seen once built. Not sure the P40 was festooned with visible rivets, and the Bronco ones look a bit too prominent to my eye but each to their own. Here is mine finished. https://ipmsavon.org.uk/build-page.php?page_id=118

I'm also building this kit at the moment, hopefully remembering lessons from the Mk 8 I built last year. I have decided to glue those panels shut too, and just did mine from the inside last night as its easier for me to avoid glue runs that way than wait until the fuselage is assembled.

Thanks, and yes, the stripes were masked and painted as I did not trust the decals to settle over the many many indented rivets on the wings. It was one of those builds where nothing went wrong at all throughout - and I can assure you that is pretty rare for me!

I replaced the seat with a resin one. Unfortunately I cannot remember the brand but probably Neomega as I like their seats. The rest of the kit is quite well detailed from the box. All I did was add brake lines from lead wire. I remember it being a very easy and enjoyable build. Slightly shocked to find it was back in 2007! https://www.ipmsavon.org.uk/meetings-gallery.php?year=07#20071017-6