neilh

There were some truly lovely models on display yesterday - that Bronco pictured above was stunning ( IMHO). Made it really hard to find a " Best in Show". It did feel a little quiet or perhaps just not frantic as it can be, however our show manager did take care to space out tables and give wide walkways given ongoing concerns with Covid. We'll get some feedback from our treasurer later this week and hopefully we will have at least broken even. There was a steady stream of paying guests right up to early afternoon and clubs contributing to the show costs certainly will have helped. We are very grateful for everyone who came along and supported the show in what ever way. I really enjoyed the atmosphere and saw so many groups of modellers meeting up after what I suspect has been some time and catching up on all sorts of topics. Lots of laughter was heard. All good!

My experience with recent Airfix IP decals albeit in 1/48th scale( Gnat, Chipmunk, Moth, Sea Fury) is that the kit decals do snuggle down perfectly over the raised decal with the aid of a few application of decal softeners. Once dry they do not look as if a decal is applied save for the slightly glossy finish. I matt coated mine and then added small drops of Johnsons Klear to gloss the dials. I would suggest you try to apply the decal over the raised detail and if unhappy with the final result then soak it off with decal solution and then just paint the panel.

If I recall those specific parts, they insert into tapered rectangle you have to cut into the lower rear fuselage? If I am correct, it may be easier to cut the recess before you join the fuselage halves together. As others have said, measure twice ( at least) and then cut inside the lines with a fine saw, then tidy up with a flat file until the part fits. Worth gluing small plastic card tabs inside the fuselage in case you do go too far so you have a " shelf" for the part and you have something for any filler to push against ( milliput is good in these circumstances as you can clean it up with water). The cuts across the fuselage would be easy enough but the lenghtwise ones are harder. You could scribe the line until it snaps off cleanly, or as you first suggested carefully drill a line of holes inside of the cut line and then cut through with the saw or knife. Good Luck!.

It will be smaller this year, but only back to the size when we first moved the show to Thornbury when we outgrew Yate and even now our show manager struggled to get everyone in who wants to be there. The " warmer" Hall 3 is not open this year ( probably good judging by the fine weather forecast) but the financial impact of lack of attendees and reduced traders last year could not be risked this year. If we stay in the black this time around we can look to expand again next year. Show dynamics are still very much in flux ( see the latest " view from the bridge" in the IPMS magazine re Telford planning), but our show manager and Chairman have worked their proverbials off to make this a good show. Very much looking forward to it and welcoming all our visitors, traders and displaying clubs ( although maybe not looking forward quite so much to the set up on " Sweaty Saturday" ) .

Show info update to Clubs and Sigs. Looking forward to next Sunday ! Dear Model Club / S.I.G Our show is taking place next Sunday 7th August. The halls should be open from 07:00 when the staff open up the venue. Public will be admitted from 09:30, please do your best to set up by then. Wristband passes will be available for collection from the entrance reception. Please can one person from your club / group collect passes for all your attending members. Those attending after the public access times will have to pay the public entrance fee. We have reduced the size of the show to 2 main halls, however we have use of the Severnside suite above hall 1 where some clubs will have their displays. We request that each club has one box of items for 'under the table' sales; this reflects that traders have paid a lot more in order to trade. There are some clubs who have paid for trade table space. Due to all available space being taken up for club displays and traders, there is no competition this year. The venue has said that it will be providing catering in hall 1 The show will finish at 4.00pm Looking forward to meeting you all at the show. Best wishes -- Andy White IPMS Avon

Looking at the CK instructions on Scalemates, there does not seem to be much to the conversion? Main part seems to be the radar housing which someone could maybe 3D print for you if you can find a better image/photo. I recall an earlier thread discussing the radar equipment and there were few if any references for it, and its buried so deep in the cockpit almost any representation of it from blocks of spare resin and plastic card might suffice.

I no longer have the instructions but don't recall seeing scales marked on Airfix sheets. Can you measure a roundel and calculate the scale from that known dimension?

well that's assuming all the parts are there!

Hi. Our club was recently donated some kits but they were all lumped together in one box so I am trying to sort them out into individual kits but they also came without the instruction sheets. I have checked Scalemates but had no luck there. Does anyone have or know where I can find sheets for these three car kits? The guy who donated them reported as below but there are at least two complete sprues for a Tamiya matra MS11 in the box as well! Bandai Matra MS11 1/12 > > Bandai Ferrari FI GP 1/12 > > Bandai Lotus 49 1/12 Thanks for any help!

there is a full build article of this kit in this months Airfix magazine.

I am sure I saw something in my phone when on holiday in Turkey last week concerning 3D printed handles but I was not logged on my phone so I could not share at the time and cannot find it now! Maybe some more of these will be produced in time? Kits-World 3D printed - KW3D172005 | Hannants

Any idea how to book display space for this one? My web searches are bringing up mainly archives and my e mails to the West Midlands Police club contact address are bouncing back as undeliverable?

Hi Chris, Yes, above the Hall 1 there is a tiered seating area and behind that there is a fairly large room that is accessed by steps or a lift on the right of the main entrance. We have used it in the past to host the competition and then the centre used it for catering until they finished their dedicated eating area. With the reduced space we could afford to risk this year, we have to try to maximise as much display and trade space as we can to stay viable, even with clubs contributing to the table costs. The economics of running a large show have certainly changed. Our table and chair hire has doubled since last year. Hopefully we can deliver a show that will not lose money this year and then perhaps expand to the 2019 size again in 2023.

Our annual show is on again this year once again at Thornbury Leisure Centre BS35 3JB. Due to the losses incurred at last years show and the steep increase in costs for this year, for 2022 we are running the show over the original 2 large halls, and the gallery upstairs. We are fully booked for Clubs now and any more request will have to be wait listed for a cancellation. We can accept a few more trader bookings if anyone is interested . A full list of clubs and traders is on our web page and will be updated with any changes, see here : http://www.ipmsavon.org.uk/shows.php Due to space constraints, we are unable to hold a competition for 2022, but will be looking around the tables for " Best Display" and " Best in Show". Look forward to seeing you all again this year!

I want!

A subject that has needed a new kit for a long time, like so much of the Dora wings catalogue, and lets not forget, these guys are in a country that is experiencing total war. Greatest respect.

I've built both of mine with the squared off wingtips. I found the wing tip lights to be too large so sanded them to shape , however elsewhere on this forum its suggested that I should have trimmed the wingtips along marks on the inner faces to make room for the lights. Another build tip - fit the gunsight before you fit the windscreen as per the instructions ( then protect it) , or you will need to trim the underside of the part to fit afterwards ( as I found out). The other part that was a real pig to fit was the nose U/C jack that fits in the side of the leg. I just could not see how to fit this after the nose gear was in, so added it in advance at the right angle, trimmed the plug off and butt glued it to the side of the well. You may get on better than I did.

I ordered a set of optivisors over the weekend as I definitely need the help for ship modelling. To be fair I probably need them for 1/48th aircraft now.

Even after fixing three squares of roofing lead behind the cockpit rear wall, mine were teetering or tipping back. I ended up adding lead shot from an old diving weight squashed flat with pliers dipped in white glue and dropped through the footwells into the nose until I could get no more in. I also drilled a hole down through the drop tank pylons and filled the fronts of them with the same lead shot. If I was fitting this resin engine I think I would add lead into the leading edges of the wings as well and try to get something under the floor too.

Thanks for those useful tips Gents. I am away this weekend but hope to make a start next week. I think I may have to invest in the Optivisor as all the others ones I have tried have been uncomfortable or incompatible with my varifocals. I tried using high magnification reading glasses for a while but they are OK for 1/48 aircraft but not for 1/350 naval gear!

I've built up my nerves to finally start my 1/350 Trumpeter USS England converted to my Grandfathers Captain Class DE, HMS Rupert. I'm reasonably accomplished in building 1/48th aircraft including short run, resin and etched brass extras, but this is a whole new experience for me. I have the White Ensign etched set from which I will certainly need the ladders, railing and some other parts, but I splashed out on a load of Black Cat resin accessories such as the guns, depth charge racks, searchlights etc as for example I a) don't fancy my chances of success folding the tiniest pieces of brass that make up the 3" guns and Oerlikons, even with my hold and fold tool, and b) they look too flat. I read the instructions on line which are a tad basic, and once I can get a better set of magnifying glasses so I can even see the support rods, I will cut them off, but is it best to leave one and paint them all in one go by airbrush, or better to cut them off completely, stick to card or similar with white glue, paint and then cut them off to fit? I bought and read several books about building ship models and have had a good read of in progress builds here but all advice is gratefully received as this a build for my 88 year old Dad and I don't want to stuff it up, and also want to get it built whilst he is still with us. If I get on OK with this one I may then stretch myself further and buy and build the resin kit of my Grandads previous destroyer, HMS Salisbury.

only thing to watch with the etch set is making sure the wing structure is square as the etched parts have no "give" so look wonky if the gap one side is less/more than the other. Hard to describe but I have built three of these now. The hardest was with the one where I built with the wings folded. The Tamiya design solution is great for that, but I rigged the outer wings with the etched set, and when I then slid them on the pre moulded spars, the weight of the wings pulling downwards seemed to flex the wing structure enough to force the etched rigging to bend a little. I think the problem was that I secured one end and floated the other, whereas it would have been better to attach without glue at both ends. Good luck, its a lovely kit.

How do you plan to rig it? If using the etched set designed by Tamiya, then these fit into pre prepared slots and " float" so you can build as you suggest and then add the pre finished top wing afterwards. The fit is good so you only need to be careful with the glue when attaching the top wing. Maybe a bit of flat varnish needed if any glue marks shine a bit. If rigging with other methods the build will depend on the type you choose to use. For example, if you use nylon thread, one technique is to drill holes in the lower wing part way, and all the way through the top ( or the other way around). You then attach the rigging wire at the hole and pull through the other wing, and glue. That will usually mean painting the sides of the wing facing the rigging and then painting the other sides once fixed, rigged an tidied up. That's OK to do as you can easily mask around the wings to avoid any overspray if airbrush painting and if brush painting just paint carefully!

Martin Baker Seats (neomega-resin.com) - these any good? https://www.neomega-resin.com/martin-baker-seats-72-c.asp (sorry - proper link above)

Here is the first of my two finished. Not the warped one but pretty much similar issues as described above save for the warping. Pleased with the final result although the digital images show some blemishes I can't actually see with my own eyes ( so won't be trying to fix them) ....