Rob G

They most assuredly did... and what a radial it is (makes an F4 Corsair look positively anaemic!) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zvezda_M503 (EDIT... <snap> Posts crossed in the errr.. post.)

You could do it for the Radial Engines GB... That's were I plan on doing mine. (NOTE: I said plan.) The kit is still in its shipping box, standing up in the corner of my bedroom, where it's been since it arrived. I don't even have a place to put the completed model...

My Lord, that's beautiful.

Hi Whirly, apologies for the late reply (I'm getting old and forgetful... don't laugh lad, it'll happen to you, too.) Some measuring with digital verniers (I'm getting old and blind, too, so can't see the log scale on the old steam-powered type anymore) shows the following chords on the Revell stab - root 28.2mm, tip 8.3mm (I've rounded the 10ths, because life's too short ) I'd be removing the trailing edge excess first, using the leading edge / outboard corner as your reference point, seeing as it doesn't change. Leave a bit of extra meat if you like, as you'll have to reestablish the airfoil shape with a big file when you're done. Then measure up and cut the leading edge off if you so desire - it will be a wedge, 0mm at the tip, about 1mm or so at root. I used the back of a scalpel blade against a steel ruler to do mine and it seemed to work pretty well. Then find a big file and make it airfoil-shaped again. Have fun! You're welcome to the PPP tip - I've found the product useful for that sort of filling job, as long as you can do it last so that it doesn't get soaked again (or you can give it a coat of paint, I suppose). If you want drawings, I can do them no problems.

Having read this thread through (again), I know the ultimate fate of at least one of my Airfix 48ths.

I have the remains of a 1/12th scale Harley Davidson in the stash...

Simply superb Jonners! MInimalist, yet captures the essence of the subject. 2 likes for you!

My issue is that sometimes things are discussed that are a little painful for me to see mentioned, and although I can just scroll past them, I'd rather save myself the pain by not having them visible if possible. It's words, not people per se that cause the issue. (I know, I know... harden up princess.)

Getting back to the OP... Why doesn't the Ignore function work fully ie hide posts started by people on the list, and what can be done to make it work? Is there a 'Hide Thread' function? I know that we're all (mostly all) almost grown-up (almost, with exceptions) and can turn a blind eye to what annoys us, but sometimes one needs just a little help.

Re the tailplanes. My Italeri F-16 build for the 80s NATO GB led me to research a bit. I found that the Revell kit has both sizes of stabilator in it, and from their representation it seems as if both the leading and trailing edges need modifying. There's photos in my GB WIP to illustrate the differences, and if you want some measurements, please say so and I can let you know. I think that unless you're an F-16 nut, or have to have it exactly correct, simply trimming off the rear end of the stabilator will do, it certainly makes a large visual difference. (And if you're an F-16 nut, why are you wasting time with the Italeri kit? ) One other thing to do is to modify the assembly tab on the stabs so that they can be moved rearwards - Italeri have it too far forward, by the amount of the trailing edge extension ie the TE of the small stabs should line up with the aft end of the airbrakes.

How goes it mate? I'm hoping that you'll get to the decalling before I do, I want to see what pitfalls await with that big Spitfire... (Nice, aren't I?)

Gents, thank you all. I suppose that I should make a start on this one, eh? Once I've refinished my Matchbox P-51 (Mustang GB refugee), I'll get right onto it.

Not so much here, but if in doubt we've got plenty of sharks and really big crocodiles who will be happy to help with shortening the journey. I don't have to worry about those who come after. You, however, have a wife, a young son and another on the way who deserve your best efforts to stay healthy, so keep wearing that mask, young chap.

I've spent half a lifetime inhaling (and cleaning mechanical parts with, and washing me in) petrochemicals of various sorts. I can't get excited about wearing a mask for spraying minute amounts of hobby paint. No doubt I won't live long enough to regret it.

The trick is to apply a very light coat of thin superglue before you cut them, and to use good tape to hold them together while you cut them. It's still not easy, but it works.

I've tried the same thing, it appears not. Although I haven't asked about it. (Oh the irony if you can't see this...)

The Heller Talbot-Lago first saw light of day in 1979. Apparently it's quite good, and in the unusual (for racing car models) scale of 1/24th. Might be worth picking up.

I use the dark tinted 'invisible' sewing thread for all antenna, regardless of scale. It's close enough for government work.

I'll just leave this here...

Great work Tony. Inspiration for me to get going on my Dukes. You may already know of this site, but if not... enjoy. http://www.returnofthecaferacers.com/

Sgt, feel free to build your 279. I'm probably going for a civil aircraft, and given my appalling GB record, I most likely won't get started on this anyway.

Anyone wanna buy a stash? I quit. Very nice work indeed!

Looking good. Who doesn't love a nice set of Bristols, eh? (Sorry, but someone had to say it. No doubt I'll get spanked.) As for the photography, try not to have more light coming from behind the subject than there is from the front. It confuses the camera's light meter and you get underexposed subjects.

If you've never seen a Top Fuel car run the 1/4, you should hie thee to your nearest drag strip and be prepared to be stunned. They are truly gobsmacking.

Thanks Stew. This is what happens when one attempts 45 year old kits of unknown provenance. At least I (mostly) got it finished!