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Mumbly

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About Mumbly

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Middle trap - waiting for paper
  • Interests
    60's / 70's endurance cars, F1 and motorbikes

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  1. Hi @Sabrejet A third hand is the thing that you need . The right iron to get the temp for the metal being used, clean the joint area and use flux, even if using multi-core solder. Keep the iron tip clean and flat as they pit over time, use a file and tin the bit (melt solder on the bit then flick it off), flow the solder on the metal, not from the iron. I was taught this as a nipper when working on PCBs, and then again when plumbing copper pipes, the differences are the temperatures for the size of the metal being soldered.
  2. Thanks Mark I will probably have the fairing off. Most of the detail also will be obscured by the left hand exhaust which exits on the right hand side but that never stops us doing what we do. Tony
  3. Evening. So far, crankcase has been painted with some Vallejo Magnesium, which went on better than I expected as the primer was another story. Cylinders and heads are still being worked on and will be given some matt ally and polished ally. Then some more bolts. I have used MasterClub 0.8mm, 0.9mm, 1.0mm, 1.2mm and 1.4mm resin bolts, pre-painted with some AK Xtreme Metal Matt Alluminium so I am now un-cricking my neck as I type. The crankcase will be weathered later, to take the shine off a bit. Clutch cover is also wating for the gloss black to dry before the ally paint is applied. Here are some pics. Also received the brake lines and connectors from RB Motion, and OMG they are amazing, if a touch on small side. I don't mind, as I always think the Tamiya vinyl tube is too thick for the control lines and brake pipes. I have used some 30AWG wire wrapping wire (Amazon sell this in 200m spools, so have some spare) on the clutch and tacho cables, and will use this for the throttle lines and the water temp line too, but use the kit tubes for the water, breather and ignition. Thanks for following along. Tony
  4. It has been a while since I started anything, but a house move and visit from Mr. Cancer really puts a spanner in the works. Still all that behind me now and time to start going through the accumulated stash that kept growing. I bought this when Tamiya re-issued it the other year, plus I also obtained an un-built half painted one from eBay as a backup for bits and maybe a second project, more of that later. I also purchased a set of the Cartograf decals from the UK importers as well and a photo etch set from ModellingMaster in Russia. This is the bike which KR rode to win his 3rd and last world championship in 1980. It also was the last inline 4, piston ported 2-stroke that the works Yamaha team used, as the following year they copied Suzuki with a disc valve square 4 layout which eventually led to the V4, reed valve layout which Eddie Lawson won his first title 4 years later. The OW48 was a last ditch effort to stay competetive against the Suzukis, so started the year as the kit is presented. Ally square tube frame being the biggest development. As the season progressed, they turned the 2 outside cylinders through 180 degress to provide a better route for the exhaust pipes, and this was the OW48R and after sorting the geometry finally got the ally frame and is sometimes referred to as the OW48R ALF. KR maintains that another year with this bike would have provided 4th championship defence, but we will never know. The intention is to stick with the bike which actually won GPs that year i.e. the stock OW48. I have seen someone in Japan that has made a conversion kit to the OW48R, which I am trying to track down, so may still finish the spare off as one of these, if possible. I also am looking at doing something better with the front forks, as these are the all-in-one, thick chrome plate offerings, that was the way it was done back when this was originally tooled. I have some 2.8mm stainless tube which is spot on as fork legs, but I will try some BMF first to see if I can get on with that. Anyway, this is the box art: The frame is asembled, but that is not very exciting. I have been working on the engine, so have removed all the bolt heads and seperated the cylinder from the crankcase on the ends and removed the clutch cover for a scratch one (all circled). Added the photo etch bits as well and preparing everything for a session with the airbrush. Spare kit bits on the right, WIP on the left. This is the clutch side with the PE, clutch cover and a feed for the tacho added. Hope to keep on top of this one and not run out of talent before the end. Thanks for looking. Tony
  5. Just testing the link from OneDrive That worked
  6. Great choice for your next build as there are many builds on here and YouTube for hints and tips.
  7. Hi Matt If you can get some Kleer, it is ready to use and does not need thinning to airbrush. You can still buy the original stuff in the U.S. and it can be bought in the U.K. but test it first over the same paints. I use plastic desert spoons, as they are big enough as well as the perfect shape for seeing how paint goes down. They are also cheep and almost the right plastic. Poundland like places are great for all this kind of stuff. @Hamdenis right, YouTube has some great tips. It does get easier, but if you are buying old kits off eBay, then chances are the decals might have perished over time.
  8. It is a good effort, you should be proud of that one especially as cars are not as easy a starting point compared to an aircraft. 1 tip for decals, if you have not done so, is to put down a couple of thin clear gloss coats. You will see people advocating Johnsons Future / Kleer (if you can still get it) or get something like AK Gauzy. I assume also that you are brush painting to start with, so look for self levelling as a feature as this will give you shine and a smooth finish for the decals to cling to. Also, get some decent flat brushes for now or as @Spiny said, look at rattle cans.
  9. If you want to clear your windscreen have a look at AK Gauzy Glass Coat. I have used the Gauzy gloss on their metals and it is pretty good. It might also be self levelling, so will brush well.
  10. Have a look on YouTube for David Thibodeau’s RC 213v with Gravity Colours. In part 2 he uses Tamiya TS83 over gloss black. It looks spot on as Honda’s frames look semi-polished. It also depends on the original, bare ally like the Honda, or polished ally like Aprillia. I would give the AK a shot as they are more robust than Alclad.
  11. Hi Coops I watched a YouTube vid by flymanhm and he has a great way to spoke that might help. Glue the rim but not the hub then remove the spokes from one side at the rim. The hub is in the right location. Might be helpful?
  12. You probably know this already, but it is a re box of a Protar kit from the 80’s. They weren’t Tamiya quality back then, but always were interesting. I have an AJS 7R on the stash pile with the rubber band chains I will watch this one as it looks interesting.
  13. Nice work, there are some real world tips on getting the look, I know of https://www.bikeexif.com/build-cafe-racer which talks about the tank and fork height to get the appearance right. You are a bit limited with its scale for donor parts at 1/6th so scratch building exhaust, seat etc. is your only option. I started a similar project with a 1/12 Z1, but got stuck at the seat, so hopefully you have better success than me. Good luck, it looks great already. Tony
  14. After owning a variety of Kawasaki triples, I too went down the Suzuki stroker line, my first was an X7, (which I loved) to an RG250 and then my absolute favourite, my RG500. Always liked the GT380, especially when the stock pipes were swapped for something more anti-social. Can’t think why 2-strokes disappeared.
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