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Mumbly

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About Mumbly

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Middle trap - waiting for paper
  • Interests
    60's / 70's endurance cars, F1 and motorbikes

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  1. Mumbly

    1/8 Nagano Kawasaki 750 H2

    Great build, I have looked at getting one of these to try to recreate my KH750 that I had back in the day, dual front discs, Swarbrick pipes and bellmouths might be a bit tricky though. Terrifying bike, really peaky on the pipe, no grip regardless what tyres were fitted, brakes felt like plywood and were little better and a frame made of boiled rhubarb. The noise though and metallic purple paint more than made up for its satanic desire to only travel in a straight line. Need a whisky to calm my nerves just thinking back to being caught on it in the rain.
  2. Hey Alan Does the kit allow you to build the Rossi version (Valentino’s dad)? Got the Robert’s Yamaha on my shelf to do. Tony
  3. Mumbly

    MFH - 1:20 Eagle T1G 1968

    I'd try Mr Surfacer 500, brush it on over the gaps and wipe it off when dry with some cellulose thinners or Isopropyl on a cotton bud. It does sink when it dries, so may take 2 or 3 applications. Alternatively, as it is white metal, you could use any filler from Halfords, like P38 or even some Stopper.
  4. Also consider Halfords Etch primer as this works on Galvanised metal, so should stick if you think the metal is going to be problematic
  5. A great way to adjust the temperature on a soldering iron is to wrap some copper wire around the base of the bit, the more or thicker the wire, the more energy required to heat the bit, so it runs cooler. Trial and error helps here, too much wire and not enough heat will get into the brass, dry joints and no flow. On big runs a flame might be your only option, or tin either side of the run, clamp with a wooden peg and then run the flame/iron over it again dabbing the solder in dots along the brass. Used to use the wire trick on a 15W iron for white metal soldering where heat is the enemy. Fastcat's suggestions are right, remember that flux is acid, and is for cleaning the joint as much as assisting the flow of the solder, the solder flows with heat first.
  6. A long while on any updates on this one, apologies as I have been drifting in and out of this. So, to recap.... Frame has been de-tagged and some weld seams have been added. These are the areas that have been removed. I have also added the mono-shock bracket, and painted the frame, tank and seat hump.... And from above I need to shoot some clear over the tank and seat hump, along with the headlamp. I am also very impressed with the effect that Gravity have managed to achieve with their metallic, it looks to scale as some metallic flakes looks too chunky . Frame was painted with some Tamiya TS7, as I needed to break up the black somehow, and a gloss black frame would have been too much in my opinion. I have the front end to complete next, and I am waiting on a Molotow pen to get the fork sliders chromed. I also am pondering the front mudguard, as I am not liking my first attempt. Next update won't be in 6 months and should see the forks attached. Afterwards it is a re-spoke of the rear wheel and then we are left with the exhaust and seat to figure out what to do. BTW, I have seen the effect of the Molotow on plastic, does anyone know if it works on brass or will it need priming? Cheers Tony
  7. If caustic soda don't shift the Tamiya then try surgical spirit
  8. Another is to try a paint pen, I use Sakura Pen Touch 0.7mm in Silver - ebay sell them and I think Amazon do too.
  9. Rd100! US import or RD80 with a big bore kit on it? RD250LC was the docile little brother of the 350, but was so easy to tune into a proper head banger! Add a set of Metzelers and it was a ludicrous fun. I then had the naked YPVS afterwards, hardly wore the front tyre out. Looking forward to see how this ends up.
  10. I had no idea that Wills Finecast did cars. I knew them from white metal locomotives of which I had built a few. Remember swearing repeatedly at a 4mm GWR King for being bleeding useless, but after a while it looked ace. So much work. Stick those babies on ebay or gum tree, they will go for loads!
  11. Evening all. Front wheel shot, discs on! Still need to sort out the rubber flash, still on the to do list. Also, this is me being lazy on the photo side, as I normally get annoyed with Photobucket hanging. So this is a wrap up photo which I will expand on.... Ok, the engine has been painted with semi-gloss black which has a cote of flat clear over it as it was way too glossy for what I wanted. Carbs are attached, and the plugs and HT leads are on as well. Just need to add the front sprocket which is part of the MFH Bike Chain Set for the Ducati Desmo / RC211V / YZR-M1. The kit unit is a 1 piece moulded chain and sprocket which firstly looks a bit meh and secondly would need cutting to get through the mono-shock mod on the swing arm. On the swing arm, the brackets for the mono-shock are in place, and the frame ones are going on the bracing above the carbs. In the foreground, I have started the mono-shock itself. 4mm brass tube, 3mm plastic rode, the top eye from one of the kit springs and some 1mm copper wire from some twin & earth which was wound around a self trapping screw to make the coil (a trick I read elsewhere on this forum, apologies for not remembering who had the bright idea to do that). This is on going, but soon should be done. This needs to be co-ordinated with all of the brackets as it doesn't move so needs to be the correct height. The front forks are now getting the treatment. Head stock original holes were opened out to 4mm, and have been strengthened up a bit as the material left was a bit scant, and looked flimsy at best. This is on going, but I have also added a clip-on at the top too, again opened out to 4mm. The fork has been separated at the lower stanchion and drilled out to accept the brass tube. Next step is to remove the headlamp bracket and drill that out too. Then repeat for the other side. Once all of this is done, I can fit the forks and then work out the lines for the front mudguard. The great thing with this kit is that I have 2 sets of front forks, 2 head stocks and a variety of handle bars to choose, as well as 2 front mudguards. Makes it easier to attack the bits knowing I have spares a plenty. Coming along nicely, and counting down to painting the tank, front guard and tail unit soon . Frame de-tagging and first assembly also getting near too. Check in again soon. Tony
  12. I found the site recently through Pinterest and then realised that the kit has a 19" front wheel and that an 18" looks way better, but I can't do anything about that now as I am not aware of aftermarket wheels and tyres for bikes in 1/12th. If they exist then happy days for the next project
  13. Thanks, and I have probably used to fine a grade on the rubber up to now - get out the 80 grit
  14. Evening all. Ok, the front re-spoke has been done, now getting ready to do the rear as well as putting into practice some valuable lessons learnt from the front. This is a kind of before and after picture using the rear. I know it is not perfect, but for my 1st attempt I am quite chuffed and the difference is massive compared to the moulded original. Tyres need the rubber flash removed, anyone got any suggestions on a good method? Also have the discs drilled and painted too... Waiting on the steel to proper dry. Using AK True Metal, and patience on the drying is vital. Will give them a buff tomorrow then possibly a wash to tone the brightness down a bit, as they look too flat all gold and steel. Also working on the forks now, have opened up the top yoke to take some 3mm brass tube and will show the workings on the bottom triple clamp when I have something worth showing. I was going to scratch build them, but the kit ones look fine and just need some modification. The forks though are a bit pants, hence the brass tube. All in all, progressing nicely. Catch you later Tony
  15. Thanks - it is character building and thankfully only 40 spokes per rim, any more and sanity would be stretched T
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