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Mumbly

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About Mumbly

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Middle trap - waiting for paper
  • Interests
    60's / 70's endurance cars, F1 and motorbikes

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  1. I am no expert, it is only the 2nd one that I have done this on (the first being the front wheel ). I have looked at the kits on ebay as well, they do save loads of time as the cutting of the spokes and nipples (ohh er) and bending takes the time. Once all the prep work is done the putting it together is quite easy. Also, compared to car spokes, they are in 2 halves and a repeated pattern. Car spokes are another level. Thanks Ian
  2. Yes, it is the fine craft saws photo etched Tamiya 74094 They fit in their craft knife handle, and probably fit an x-acto type handle too. I wish I had these earlier as they are very thin, so take minimal material away with the cut.
  3. Thanks @swralph a lot of the details aren’t picked up by my iPhone and I have no idea where my real camera is the stash is quite bike heavy. I have an Aoshima Z1 that I have half done as a cafe racer that is getting it’s rear wheel spoked currently, I am going to do a WIP on my method. yeah, that was squeaky bum time, but Tamiya micro saws are epic.
  4. Hi all, final pictures on this one. I used this a way to try some ideas, and am happy with the result. The kit is showing its age, but is still really a typical Tamiya kit. Thanks Tony
  5. Final update on this one. Paddock stands are now done. I have repaired the torn black decals, but have left the yellow as is, getting a colour match was too much so I decided to leave it as is. I will load a couple of images and then post in RFI. Thanks for looking. Tony RFI
  6. Never counting your chickens is oh so true. Final details now complete, screen attached and upper fairing attached, tick! Front axle instead of chunky screw, tick! Headstock screw covered with bolt, tick! Paddock stand started, tick! Decal repair, tick! Masking tape ripping other bits of decal off, tick! sh*t, f**k, bu**er, ar*e and other sentence enhancers. But, looking at the bright side, I now have a cunning plan worthy of Baldrick. As part of repairing the first decal I took a scan/copy of my spare set of decals. The decal that needed to be fixed wa
  7. Nearly done! I decided a while back to go with a half fairing so as to show off the engine etc. Also, the forks will not be coming off as the screw through the headstock will be covered, so removing the fairing later is not going to happen. Tamiya’s excellent etched saw blades cut through the fairings at the join, and I temporarily added some card to act as supports for the top and bottom for painting and decals later. Apart from that and the screws being drilled through, the only chore was the filling of the gap in the two halves. I have to mention how go
  8. Kettles on for this one! Looking forward to the progress Ron.
  9. Great tip Pete, I have a glue fest of a Protar AJS 7R that has been taunting me for ages.
  10. Forks on! Which is less rude than fork off! The original idea was to possibly use stainless tubes for the fork legs, but with Tamiya’s way of linking everything together I had to park that idea. I had spent time making copies of the originals with Blue Stuff / Milliput and also in resin, and I was able to separate the callipers from the fork legs and make some new brackets out of some strip plastic. So, with this in mind, and after removing the chrome from the kit parts, I removed the callipers from the forks. This then allowed the forks, brackets and brakes to be p
  11. I used to use PVA/water and a drop of washing up liquid to glue crushed coal into the tenders of OO locos with no issues, so should work for your ballast ok.
  12. Lovely work on this, got the 03 Rossi version in the stash but trying to get the fork kit is a bit like hen’s teeth these days.
  13. A bit late with this info, but Acu-stion do a photo-etch kit for this which has the grill you are looking for. Might be hard to buy though. Great build by the way.
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