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Mumbly

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About Mumbly

  • Rank
    New Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Middle trap - waiting for paper
  • Interests
    60's / 70's endurance cars, F1 and motorbikes

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  1. I assume you have seen the suggestions on using plastic spoons? Dead cheep and they have complex curves so you can see how much to apply and how they react. Tony
  2. Hi Dave Looking great. Is the bike going to stay as a service machine and olive drab all over, or is the plan to make it a civvy version? Either way, the new wheel takes it to a new level. Tony
  3. 180 or 240 grit, or a coarse sanding stick will shift it
  4. How could I have forgotten about the ground clearance, the alternator cover hitting the deck if you were brave or going too fast for the bend. Not good memories. These were wide bikes.
  5. Hello Added some details that won't be seen in the form of the helmet holders. Added the bracket and bolt for the tacho cable to be supported as well. The engine bolts have also been removed and will be replaced by some Masterclub bolts. So, frame is assembled, engine mounted, battery in and centre stand. Final section of the rear mudguard and then the coils and top frame beam. This is kit is a really good kit, and I assume that the other recent releases are of the same standard. I have just
  6. MotoGP bikes are very clean, so no oils stains or leaks. Use a wash to accent as this will help. Looking good so far, this kit is on the bucket list for me so watching with interest.
  7. Noice! What an improvement over the original, well done! My next thing to try is carving chains, these guys from Japan have some awsome skills, and access to some amazing tools, this is from the same guy:
  8. I have been working on the frame. Specifically the side and centre stand. I had looked at these, but I had some Top Studio exhaust springs which are perfect, it was a case of how to attach them. I mentioned elsewhere insect pins, and these are perfect for spring lugs. Also use of a dress makers pinhead to lock the side stand and we are good to go. I was in two minds about making the seat hinge, and am still unsure. I will have a go at making some hinges before I decide. Engine is all done, crank case sides are finished, but I need to finish the cables be
  9. It taunts me on a regular basis. TBH - a house move, a long spell in hospital and a preference for 1/12th and above (eyesight is a bugger!) all have got in the way. It will get done, at some point. Tony
  10. Just an update on this. I bought some Entomology (insect) pins for something else, and these will make excellent spokes. They come in various sizes and colours, but Continental size 0 with metal heads provide many uses. These are 0.4mm in diameter, stainless steel with flat metal heads and come in packets of 100 - enough for a front and rear with spares for other stuff. The metal is not as stiff as piano wire, so is easy to form. The brand are Asta and they are referred as Ento pins. Thanks Tony
  11. Hi Dave This is the method that I used with my KH after trying other methods, it works really well and is quite straightforward. The end result is well worth the effort, but once you do your first, you will never go back to OOB wheels again. Tony
  12. Not sure if this is the right forum, I am sure a mod can move it if necessary. This is my preferred way to wire spoke a wheel, it is probably not the best way and it certainly is not the only way. Of the methods I have tried, this works well on Hasegawa and Aoshima rims, and I assume Tamiya and others will be OK too. This method should work well with Protar, especially as the tyres don’t stretch over and have the rims assembled around them. I am currently building the KH250 from Hasegawa, so I have decided to keep the OOB chrome on the rims, but the hubs will be paint
  13. Fun fact about the Wolf, it was the most advanced use of carbon fibre when it raced with the whole rear wing assembly being constructed from it, no centre mounting pillar made of an alloy. This was a leap of faith, as carbon composites had only been used for end plates and the like up to that point.
  14. Thanks Ron, I took a punt by leaving the chrome on the rims as I normally hate kit chrome, but I am pleased it worked better than I expected. So much so, that I will keep the exhausts chromed as well. The rest (and there are a lot of chrome parts) are going for a swim in some bleach soon. I am working on the centre stand and side stands, trying to work out how to get some springs on them, so hope to get an update out soon.
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