SPerx

Yes. They were converted from B2 airframes. Principal visible identifiers were camera crates in bomb bay; and some had a kind of "nipple" on the front of the slipper tanks. I think that was to do with radiological intelligence gathering. Some SR2s were converted from B2(BS) airframes and retained the ECM blisters around the rear radome. Like you the SR2 is on my to do list once the Airfix B2 is released.

Why? The Spey engined Phantom has been kitted perfectly well by Fujimi and Hasegawa in your two preferred scales, and both are still available , albeit at a price. The B Mk2 series Victor has not been kitted at all; the Matchbox/Revell K2 moulding is over 30 years old, and requires a shed load of work to convert to a Bomber variant. Assuming Airfix repeat the multi variant approach of the Valiant we could end up with every Conway engined Victor option doable with modern moulding techniques, recessed lines etc etc. I am thrilled that Airfix are doing this, just as I am with Revell's AEW Shackleton and Meng's F-106. Definitely a " Golden Age."

Hasegawa Swingers are best by a country mile.

Yesterday there was what looked like a Mirage 2000D - possibly in the Leeming instrument circuit. Too high & distant to get a picture.

That's a very pretty model. I too saw it at RIAT, think I have some pictures of it somewhere.

Sadly, for me the phrase "US buyout" inevitably means asset stripping, layoffs and endless kits of P51s and F16s. I very much doubt that we will see new tooling a of esoteric subjects in the way that Revell Germany covered less mainstream subjects. It's all cyclical, I can remember when Airfix fell into the hands of Mattel back in the late 70s / early 80s. No creativity and models "marketed" like instant coffee. It was Humbrol's acquisition of Airfix which kept it in existence.

Modeldecal, just a fantastic range. Researched by Dick Ward, produced for and marketed by Mike Silk, I just loved them and still do. So glad that the Big H bought the rights and perpetuate them. The White gunk "issue" is easily resolved with moist Q-tips or a moist tissue. As I recall they were OK with Microsol and Microset, but they do need a good solid gloss base before decalling. Overall, you can't go wrong with them.

I am no expert, but I think your problem is using the same type of paint for your wash as for your primary colour scheme. My technique is briefly :- a) Spray the primary colour scheme and let it dry thoroughly b ) Apply a gloss varnish of a dissimilar type to the proposed "wash" i.e if I am going to use oil paint for the wash, I use "KLEAR" or something similar which will not be affected by the turpentine used as thinner for the oil paint. c) Let the varnish dry thoroughly d) Apply the wash - I generally use oil paint thinned with turpentine - and use turpentine sourced from an art shop and not a rough variant from a DIY outlet. e) I use a fine tipped paint brush to apply the wash to the panel lines; Zimmeritt; cockpit tub or whatever. Capilliary action will tend to carry the thinned paint along the lines I want to accentuate. Any excess or overflow can be safely mopped up with a cotton bud; a piece of kitchen roll or similar. f) Once the oil paint wash has thoroughly dried I clean any excess off using a cotton bud or whatever will reach the target. g) Apply a further coat of varnish to seal it. I guess you problems might be attributable to any or all of the following :- a) Washing with enamel on your enamel primary scheme. b ) Too thick a coating of paint for you primary scheme effectively clogging the panel lines so there is nowhere for the wash to flow c) Too thin a mix for the wash so it cannot flow in the panel lines and spills onto the surface instead d) Not letting the primary scheme dry thoroughly so that the thinner for your wash has an un-cured paint surface to attack e) Not varnishing before washing. Thats my two-pennorth - I expect more expert modellers on here will have their own hints and tips. However, stick at it because the effect of a wash is to really enhance the model and pick out details - try it ion a 1/35th tank wheel and see how the wheel nuts suddenly standout - likewise with detail on, for example, a 1/72nd aircraft wheel.

IIRC there was a bespoke asymmetric load-out on the Operation Bolo F4s. It had something to do with them only being able to carry the F-105 ECM pods on one of the outer pylons because of wiring limitations. That led to, I think, the jamming pod being on the Port outboard pylon; weapons on the two inner pylons; and a single fuel tank on the Starboard outer. It is mentioned in Robin Olds' Memoir "Fighter Pilot" - I cannot help with detail as my copy is in store following a move.

I agree with Giogio above. In addition I suspect that the plastic commonly used in 3D printers would prove to be too brittle at the thickness of a lens hood.

That's a nice looking model. I like the ESCI Hun, a lot of value in what was a fairly inexpensive box.

Not strictly Granby Jaguars, but I believe The RAF also had a very few, 3 IIRC, prototype TIALDS which were flown out and used. I believe OC 617 Sqn Wg Cdr Bob Iveson AFC ferried a jet out from Marham and then stayed on to oversee the TIALD "operational trial."

Nope, The ersatz 56 Sqn scheme was applied for an event in 1986 - long after the natural metal days. IIRC the Station Commander ( Gp Capt John May) had started out on 56 Sqn and so had an F3 in the two greys scheme marked up for the 70th Anniversary of 56 Sqn celebrations - here's a link to an Air Britain image - http://www.abpic.co.uk/photo/1401267/ Of course none of that means the Trumpeter kit is exactly right, but I am old enough to remember the Airfix 72nd F3 which was a botch-job of their original F1A with weedy cable ducts and grossly simplified exhausts etc. I think XR749 had previously had the LTF Blue Fin large Logo scheme.

I got a modified one, using an external vacumn pump, from a US vendor on EBay a couple of years back. Had to get a step down transformer from Maplins as it uses US voltage. It is a nice piece of kit which is straightforward to use. Works a treat hooked up to an old Dyson vac cleaner. Supplies of perforated edge acetate also available from the US via EBay. I have made a few plugs to form replacement vac-formed canopies from kit injection canopies by blanking off the end and filling with fast-cast resin and then using the resin plug that is created to form a much thinner canopy - so for example replacing the too thick canopy on the Matchbox two-seat Lightning.

Why not just swap it for a Revell A320 or A321?